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Everything posted by mtaylor
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This maybe an unusual way of framing a hull, Amalio, but the result show that its a good method.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Good points all around. Sometimes it's just best to let them hit the wall. Then be there to help them off the floor. We all learn, sometimes from words, other times from running into the wall.- 4,152 replies
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Thanks for all the "likes", comments, and "just having a peek in". Update time.... All three decks now have their clamps in place. I've checked from side to side and they're close but need a bit of touching up with a file to get each side level with the other. I've also started making up the beams for the lower deck. The pictures show the first two beams shaped on the ends and also sitting in place. I'm still planning on an almost full lower deck with the following exception.. the aft end planking will end after the partition and door for the gunroom. I may change my mind as get more into this area but I'd be winging it to put any thing after that wall basically be sheer guesswork including the beams. There's (according to the plans) two "cabins" in the gunroom but I'm thinking they're storage. The hull in the area takes on some serious curves. As I said, I may change my mind once I get into the deck planking. I'll also put in the mizzen mast step, the main and fore mast partners, the oven, and the three hatches (two have gratings). There will also be the cabins (empty), bread rooms, and storage rooms along with the forward partition that's behind the foremast. The anchor point for the bowsprit will need to be installed and the opening in the bow opened and shaped for the bowsprit on the beakhead. Anyway, here's the pics... I'm open to critique, ideas, and thoughts as always. Have a great Friday and weekend.
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John, I'm happy to have been of help. We all learn from each other here. I'm just glad you found what works for you.
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Hmm... I've never had success with the boiling or microwave way of bending. I soak and then use a curling iron... rinse and repeat as needed. I tried Chuck's method and some woods worked well, others, not so much. Plus, I don't have space to work with the heat of a heat gun. My workshop is pretty packed. The key is to heat until it's pliable and then bend and lock into position until cool.
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It's a pity the owner of the real ship can't see this, or hasn't seen this.... Most impressive, Patrick.
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Frégate d'18 par Sané , la Cornélie
mtaylor replied to JohnE's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I would think the yard dogs deserve a tot or two of rum or perhaps, being French... wine. It seems a plan is coming together. -
Planking Options
mtaylor replied to kurtde's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
HI Kurt, I'm not sure what you mean by "the best/preferred way to proceed"???? There's planking tutorials pinned here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/and in the database here in the Planking and Framing section:http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-modeling-articles-and-downloads.php I hope this is what you're looking for. -
Have a great trip, Pat. Endeavour is looking fantastic in her home for now.
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You could be right on that Joel. As I understood it, it was needed for the first load (if the guns were unloaded) and then if there was a mis-fire or if for some reason it didn't recoil. It would make sense to me, not have excess clutter on the deck.
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Michael, They do have inhauls. Depending on the navy and even the captain, they might or might not be rigged until actually needed to run in a gun. They were usually not rigged until the call for "action" except for maybe an inspection. They would be something else to trip over.
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John, For this, you're choices are spiling or bending... or a bit of both. Chuck's system works very well... I checked Youtube and he must not have loaded it up there. He basically heats the wood until pliable and then bends it using clamps to a table top and let it cool. I do it a bit different in that I soak the wood for a bit and then use an old curling iron to bend and shape. Lots of ways to get the same place. Edit: Found them... These really need to be put some place on the site..... Edit of the edit... I just posted these to the Planking sub-forum. I hope they help.
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I'm finding that the more I do, the more I'm willing to try on this ship... Not sure if that makes sense, but truly is a journey. I'll need to make several measurement per beam and adjust the ends as needed.. pretty much customize each one to fit the hull shape. Not just the angle for the meeting the hull horizontally but also vertically due to the tumblehome. It should be interesting. All that jig does is give me the flat spot I need and beam thickness at the clamp. The MM R8 is the same as the Sieg except for motor power and the Little Machine Shop has a rigid post. The smaller mills MM sold are, shall we say, illegitimate step-children? There was almost nothing they sold that fit them easily. Sherline isn't out of the running but I need to re-examine their offerings. I really would like to have the drill press feature as my drill press sits in the corner, on the floor since there's no bench space for it. HMS Visa is recovering but if things work out for a trip to the NRG Meeting, she'll back in drydock afterwards. If things don't work out for the trip... the mill is mine.. bwahahahahaha.... I think you're right on his tool, Grant. Vote acknowledged.
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