mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Nice work on the treenails, Matt. Not obvious but definitely there.
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Steamboats and other rivercraft - general discussion
mtaylor replied to Cathead's topic in Nautical/Naval History
I wonder if Train Troll is the guy we had come through here a few years ago? Maybe in MSW 1.0. He was designing a kit and a model for the RR guys and did a build log here.- 281 replies
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- Steamboats
- riverboats
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I'm adding one here... http://www.keimlumber.com/exoticwoods I found it in a buildlog and looks promising.
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I like that approach, Nils. Precise placement with little room for error. The davits should look great once they're installed.
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- kaiser wilhelm der grosse
- passenger steamer
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Steamboats and other rivercraft - general discussion
mtaylor replied to Cathead's topic in Nautical/Naval History
CH.... Maybe the answer is as simple as "it's their interpretation"? I doubt if the Euro makers have even seen a steamboat other than pictures. AL is particularly bad, in my opinion, on holding scale consistent throughout the model. Talk to DaveS or Chuck. If you have your own plans, maybe something can be worked out.- 281 replies
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Mid 18th Century glass
mtaylor replied to Mark P's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I like the line at the bottom.. "We are humbly of the opinion the prices he asks are reasonable". Big pieces would have priced higher given the state of the art of glass making back then. Thanks for posting this. -
Brian, One thing about scanners.. they don't do exactly 100%. Some stupidity about counterfeiting money.. So... either buy a small ruler or make a small ruler on some paper and scan it with your plans/patterns. I pull the drawing into CorelDraw and adjust that the ruler is correct size, then print. Or... you just copy/print from the scanner/printer (assuming it's an all in one device) and adjust the size as you print. Your foredeck came out great in spite of the problems.
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Jeff, Are you speaking of the sheer poles? (See the picture.. circled in red.). The easiest way is a spot of glue on the pole and hold it in position until things set up a bit. Then do the lines. More difficult is to tie some string to the pole, clip it into place and then tie it to the shrouds.
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Zoltan, I seriously doubt those are made for this hobby. I've seen them for years in electronics stores, etc. A lot of times they're used with mulitmeters to clip the probes to the electrical connection being tested. You might also check with any electrical shops in your area and see if they carry them.
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Stunnngly beautiful, Mobbsie. I'm mostly speechless at this.
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- armed launch
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As always, Johann... great research and beautiful work.
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Happy belated anniversary, Denis. May you two have many, many more.
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On some ships, didn't they fold them into a "U" shape also?
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Mike, I'd start here for sourcing: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/384-where-to-buy-wood/ I've found with the "exotics" that supply varies and a place that had wood I wanted last week, won't have it this week. Jason at Crown doesn't carry any black wood of any sort but he does from time to time have off-cuts. I don't have they Jim Saw, but I do cut planks with the one I have so I know it can be done. Somewhere, I think it's in Grant's Granado log that he made a spacing tool (for lack of a better term) to cut planks from stock. Do you have any other table saw or band saw? I used my 8" table saw at one point to cut up some 2 X 3 X 24 billets of ebony I got from Woodcrafter's (I think that was the place).
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Pear isn't all the difficult for planks nor is boxwood. Cherry can work if you like the color as it ages and don't mind the pronounced grain. It does splinter unless it's well steamed. Beech is pretty flexible and would work also but there is a grain in it. Maple and cherry will work well for frames. If you'll go here: http://www.dlumberyard.com/wood.htmland click on Wood Samples (scroll up as you hover over the various woods) you get an idea of what the woods are like and how they're best used.
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Chuck, I agree with you on this point. Back on MSW 1.0, there was a "division" but by materials. Plastics had their own build logs and many of the builders felt like second class citizens. Why go back to that? We were all beginners at some point and if it were not being able to mix and mingle with the experienced builders, most of us would have walked away from this hobby calling it "elitist". We're all just builders and the attitude around here since day one is "helping each other".
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JP, I would discount any kit models pictures as kits are notoriously inaccurate. What Ofencer said. The ANCRE monograph by Boudroit is probably the most accurate.
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I'm just catching up with this. Nice work and research you're doing.
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Hamilton, See if you can find Ken Foran's book on "Modeling With Brass". He's a member here (xken) and his book is most informative. Probably tell you more than you ever wanted to know. Otherwise, I know there's been some mini-tutorials in some build logs, but I'm drawing a blank on which ones.....
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Ah.. now I got it. I missed the connection between hands, tension, and buzzing.... Somedays, I'm an idiot should be locked in my room.
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Hang in there, Denis. I think sanding is the "story of all our lives" in this hobby. And no, it won't be any of us calling the guys in the white coats with the butterfly nets because the next person they could be picking up could easily be one of us.
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