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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Piet, I'm just in total awe of this and looking forward to seeing how it comes out.
  2. John, Looking good and well worth the effort. One question, since the wood is splitting, is the grain straight? Many times the kit wood is cut at an angle to the grain. I think we've all had our moments with wood splitting.. and then the air turns blue. Doc, There's no other video that I know of. As for lining off the hull, use his tutorial in the article database. He also includes a planking fan for the process in a separate PDF.
  3. Lovely work, Sam. Just remember, with a mill, you'll probably still have to make things twice. But it is fun... so you get twice the fun re-doing things. Yeah.. I know. I'll get my coat....
  4. I'm just amazed at the detail you're packing into this ship. Wow!!!! Looking super.
  5. What? We have to grow up? Darn... I forgot that John carries milling cutters. Thanks for the reminder. Stay tuned Piet. We've had a small change in plans do some repair work where I had to remove a bunch of beams. The main mast step wasn't positioned exactly where it needed to be. Anyway, the solution won't be accurate but it will be "interesting" to some.
  6. Sweet, Keith. They both are super clean and look very fast.
  7. Kevin, Not the answer you want... tie them off when you are ready.
  8. By all means send us ballots, Bug. I'm sure they've heard of absentee voting... I think we can also get the Chicago Graveyard Vote in for you.
  9. Mike, I think I'll pop in my $.02 (US) after reading the pros and cons and looking at TFFM. These were 6th rate ships as I recall, sloops, not frigates. Built in quantity to fill out the fleet in smaller ships for scouting, patrols, etc. The problem is, both ways could be correct for this ship. Some NMM plans on the gundeck drawings show a shape of the galleries, others don't even for ships of the same class. And, this is tough one.. later ships of the class often had differences from the first based on experience of the captains. A good example is the Roebuck class. They had two rows of windows on the stern and galleries for the first couple. By the time they built Serapis, the top row of false lights on the galleries and stern were gone. I think you'd be safe in going either way... so, basically, I'm not saying "do it this way". But "do it your way".
  10. Thanks Pat. They're a set I picked up at, I think, a local shop. Supposedly carbide but only a few are really usable. A couple have bent shafts and a couple more just aren't sharp. The milling here is requiring a fair amount of cleanup. I think I'll be tossing these soon and buying better quality online...but not from E-Bay.
  11. Beautiful, clean, crisp, and very sharp looking, Mike.
  12. Beautiful work, Matt. Complete models unto themselves.
  13. Thanks Tony for the nice words. It is indeed a very challenging part of the hobby and the internal rewards are beyond anything else. The CAD files were never meant to be downloaded given the nature of piracy on the 'Net. I've not seen any kits yet for the Triton but.....????? Sidenote: if you decide to do the complete ship at some point, there are (were?) issues with the POB version as I recall. Aldo was doing the POB and brought up the problem. I have no idea if it was fixed. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1512-hms-triton-164-by-aldo-pob/
  14. Welcome to MSW.... Go here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php At the bottom of that page are two things by Chuck P.assaro, the Tutorial and the Planking Fan. I think that may be what you need.
  15. I think you will see the courses reefed up to almost furled when in combat. I'll have to check my files as I think I have some contemporary paintings of this. All the tops (or some, depending on weather) but main course and fore course are reefed well up.
  16. I can't explain the differences, Tony. I know that all the plans for the Triton were developed on CAD and then a straight conversion to PDF's. The keel, keelson, and false keel are all the same width. I wonder if your printer is doing it?
  17. Thanks Sam. Uh...buy it again...? No. It's been discontinued and there were really were not accessories for it. I've posted elsewhere on this that I think that when this one dies (or I just get tired of fiddling with getting things like vises to work) I'll get a different mill.
  18. Tony, I'm not sure why redraw them? As long as you print them out and check that the scale on each plan measures out, you should be good.
  19. Thanks again for the likes and comments. This truly is a work in progress. The situation is slowly resolving itself... Today's update is somewhat tiny... waterways. The first picture shows the mill setup with the ball cutter. I pass each waterway piece through the jig and each time take off more material. Picture 2 shows the profile on a test piece that I'm aiming for. I'll need to profile the side against the hull during installation to get a good fit.
  20. It might be that the hawse lines were run down through the main hatch and then when disconnected from the anchors, coiled in hold. I'm not sure if a ship this small would have had a cable tier. If you're doing full sails, etc. I'd just leave the anchor hawses off and if anyone asks, "they're properly stowed below".
  21. Looks great, Jack. Since it's on the base, would a spot of glue where the oar goes through the hull and another under the bladetip work? Off the top of my head, that's all I can think of.
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