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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Proposed purchases to start my first wood kit
mtaylor replied to BobSki's topic in Wood ship model kits
I find it's not "patience" but "determination and focus" that gets me through. Being stubborn about some things is a good trait. At least that's what I tell the Admiral. -
Mayhoo, The guns only on the gundeck would have been shifted and usually not from bow to stern but from the closest gunports. For the forecastle and quarterdeck, no such luck as the gangways wouldn't handle the weight. I'd suggest just leave it as it is as the quarterdeck shifting of the last two guns would indeed crowd things a bit.
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- surprise
- artesania latina
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ancre Le Fleuron by cabrapente - FINISHED
mtaylor replied to cabrapente's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Wow is a good choice to describe this. Make that a double wow!- 332 replies
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- le fleuron
- 64 gun
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It also looks like there's a few steel beams and frames... although those might just be jigs.
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Allan, You're right.. the setup on a mill is a pain. However, it does make things repeatable. So if you're doing several scarf joints or any other work that needs be identical (or nearly identical... I'm not good enough to get exact yet) then a mill will help. Still... there's something to be said for doing things by hand and I'm sometimes sitting indecisively between either method.
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Excellent link Lehmann. Thanks. I'll add the link for the linen threads: http://www.threadneedlestreet.com/linbody.htm and the PDF link is down the page a bit just before the DMC thread listing. It took a bit of digging to find it so.... save you all a bit of time.
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It's good to see you back and that you had a great summer. The guns look great as do the bees.
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Steve, The engine looks good. As for the pictures.. after uploading them (use Attach This File) , if you hit the "Add to Post" on each in the order you want them that will set them in the proper order. In other words, if you want the third one showing in the thumbnails to be first, click the "Add" on that one first.
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- john cudahy
- finished
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Micro-Mark MicroLux LaserKnife 2525 – A Review
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Excellent feedback and news, Debbie. I'm tickled that the second generation is working for you. I know it's been a hair-puller for you and Charles on this. I've been following along with Debbie and Charles on this journey and I will note that MM has updated their manuals which, if available, would have solved most of my issues. The hobby market is maturing so who knows where we'll be in a few years. After my teething problems which are normal for any early adapter, it's working as I expected. As a side note, I will more than likely upgrade to an aftermarket laser tube for more power to able to cut the wood (3/16" and 1/4" boxwood in one pass) that I'm thinking of using for my next build. It seems doable from the research and will take some modification (can't I ever leave anything stock? ) to fit the tube. -
striping the planks
mtaylor replied to kier's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Kier, Have a look at this post: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/439-planking-tutorials/ Check out the tutorial by Chuck as it is excellent and profusely illustrated. There's a lot of ways to spile... some mark and use a scroll saw, others heat and edge bend, others sandpaper. It'll take some experimentation to figure out what's best for you. -
From experience and I'm still learning... I'm not there yet, but getting there... Ok... so much for the personal disclaimer. No dremels on joints, ever! I use files and even then have to gauge. Just a stroke or two at a time and keep offering it up to check. If I can, I will use a disk sander but it's only to get close. Files finish the job. Sanding sticks can work, but are not as precise as files. A scroll saw can get you close. From what your wrote it sounds like you're using a spiral blade. Don't. Use a flat one with appropriate tooth count. I like the reverse tooth as they don't splinter the wood on the bottom of the cut. Just leave lots of meat to final fit. Rather than a scroll saw, use chisels to cut the scarfs. I haven't got this one figured out and am still working on technique but a lot the builders use them. Gives a clean and precise cut when done right. Lastly, practice, practice, practice. Use scrap wood of course but the more you do something, the better you become. I hope this helps.
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Stunning Alex. Is that a museum by chance? A beautiful setting for your ship and very appropriate.
- 227 replies
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- cumberland
- 74 gun
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Deck house is looking good, Nenad. Hmm... healthy food... I always thought that was the woman's version. The man's version involves ham, bacon, or beef, and other things like gravies and potatoes. Yes, my admiral does that to me but not often but then she wonders why I'm never sick so maybe I'll convert her yet.- 4,152 replies
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- cutty sark
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Sitzbank aus Eisen (Bench made of iron)
mtaylor replied to merchen's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Crackers, If you're using Windows, highlight the text and right click on it. You should see and entry like "Translate with Bing" or "Translate with Google. IF not, you can click on Tools and then "Manage Add-ons". Find Accelerators. The online translator should be in there and may need to be enabled. But, this is an English forum... I would suspect that if you went to a Russian or say, French forum, you get toasted a bit for writing in English. I've gone to some with questions, but I use Google Translate and note it in the text to help anyone wondering why my French/Russian/German is so bad... -
Good question.. On a working ship, no as the lines will be resecured and/or replaced regularly. On a model.. I'd say "yes' because of peace of mind and given humidity, temperature, etc., knots do come loose. The choice of glue/adhesive is up to you.
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I'm like Danny.. AL but my case it was the Constellation. A nightmare for a lot of reasons, but it pushed me into scratchbuilding. But finished, I'm tickled with it. The only kit that didn't have a negative side for me was the Billing's Wasa. I went into it open-minded and learned a lot since the written instructions were the pits. The plans were great and the photo/drawing instruction book was actually pretty good. My current project has had it's up and downs but overall.. I'm still chuffed with it.
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Proxxon 12v Pen Sander?
mtaylor replied to Landlocked123's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
There's that one and others. Here's a couple of links to two topics along that line. I think the MM one is a version of the Proxxon. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6506-sanding-the-inside-of-boat-hulls/?hl=sander http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/341-micro-power-sanders/?hl=sander#entry241789
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