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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Thanks. I sort of suspected that it would be too light a machine. I'll look into doing what Jud recommended on the table saw.
  2. If you haven't seen this one: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/353-planking-instructiontutorial-by-jack-nastyface/ It was done for a Swift.
  3. Frank, Do the bulkhead frame ends get removed at some point? It might be worthwhile to flesh them out to the outside unless they get removed. I'm thinking the bulwarks have to attach to them, though and then they get thinned from the inside.
  4. Keith, If you look at pictures of various ships, including paintings, very seldom are all the coils "perfect". Now if the Admiral is coming aboard to inspect, that might be a different story.
  5. I'm thinking of a relatively cheap bandsaw in the less than $200 USA variety such as one of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rockwell-2-5-Amp-9-in-Band-Saw-w-59-1-2-in-Blade-and-Work-Light-RK7453/202791039?MERCH=RV-_-RV_gm_pip_rr-1-_-NA-_-202791039-_-N http://www.lowes.com/pd_22199-353-3386-01_4294607759__?productId=50084022&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo= My purpose is to rip some planks, etc off of large stock. I have 1" X 2" ebony and some 2" X 4" boxwood. In other words, not enough to justify a higher priced machine. I have a mini-table saw (3" blade) that's limited to about 3/4" on most woods. Not enough for this. I also have a 10" table saw which I think just the kerf alone is overkill. Plus that thing I think is too monstrous to cut pieces that are less than 1 foot long. So.... will other of these work? Should I go for a different blade? Or just bag the idea and see if I can find someone locally (furniture shop?) to cut these pieces and hope they don't mess things up?
  6. Terry, Check here and if need be, re-ask there or contact ME directly. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3766-essex-process-and-corrections-to-the-new-model-expo-kit/
  7. Good to see the workshop is open again, Augie. Nice work on the bulwark planking.
  8. John, Can you post us a picture? It almost sounds like glue smears....
  9. If you use the soak and bend, let them dry completely before installing them in place. Eric is right... they will shrink.
  10. Mike, If it's just plans showing the internals, etc., the "Anatomy of a Ship" books are very good. There's also Lavery's "Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815" There's others with some very deep coverage including plans and building instructions such as Antscherl's "The Fully Framed Model: Swan Class Sloops", Ed Tosti's "Naiad" and Yedlinksy's "HMS Euryalus". Seawatch Books has these and others. For French Ships, there's ANCRE and all their related books. Basically, you spend large piles of money on books....
  11. Try adding heat. Boiling water or use a curling iron or heated plank bender. I moved this to the planking forum. Check for the posts on bending wood as we've had a lot of them.
  12. Don, Great work on the blocks. If you're going to do a lot of mouldings or blocks, I'd suggest using an old hacksaw blade and use it to make scrapers. The aluminum will lose it's edge pretty quick.
  13. Grant, Those are some serious tools. I'm hoping they're for more than a few ship's boats. I'm following your boats with interest as I've got a couple of these tiny things to do myself at some point...
  14. Nenad, I'll jump early also... HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!! May you have great cake, , excellent beverages and all the time you want with Her Majesty. Lastly, may the spice keep flowing.
  15. Pops, When you hit that point, do some testing... the 50-50 mix of white glue and water works well, as does matte lacquer, and fabric glue. It's all about what you feel most comfortable with.
  16. When in doubt, cheat. Hang a piece of painted wood in front of the cabling. Hides the cable, makes the Admiral happy.. and it's relatively easy and cheap.
  17. Don't use India Ink. Use artist's pigment from an art store. It's powdered. Mix a small amount (very small) with a bit of water to make a slurry and then mix it with a bottle of glue. EdT explains it here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3453-young-america-by-edt-extreme-clipper-1853/?p=120375
  18. Just curious what the plans show or the instructions say? Any pictures that show the finished build? Some builds have you remove them, others have you lay in more planks to simulate the frames. If they stay and you add more, do plank between them.
  19. A nice save.... One way around the paper problem is to punch many small holes in the paper so the glue can soak through to the other side. I forget who's doing it, but they are using black tissue paper. The paper is thin enough to allow the glue to soak through. Another way is color the glue. EdT talks about this in his Naiad log and it works as have tinted a bottle of Elmer's wood glue and it works very well.
  20. There's a pinned topic at top of the Wood Discussion area (where this topic has been moved to) that lists all these suppliers except for the one Keith mentioned that's email only, no website.
  21. It's good you found your way back. You appear to be setting yourself up for an eventful summer.
  22. I'll just add my congratulations and admiration since all the superlatives have been taken. Just magnificent, Grant.
  23. Piet, Looks like a great sub-project (pun intended). Just make sure it's strong enough to support the torpedo. As for you being a magician... nah... you're our resident wizard.
  24. Pops, Your log is in the right place. I guessing someone moved it. As for "bold"... the only time the title is in bold is for a topic you haven't read, or one with posts you haven't read. Pick and choose what to read at your leisure..
  25. Shouldn't that be 1:24 or 1:18???? 18:1 seems larger than life.
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