mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Thanks for the "likes"... Aye, Popeye.... beams arcross the span just like on Version 1.0. I'm thinking of actually adding arrows, Sjors. Ok.. just kidding.. Thanks Keith. There's more to this road trip/journey/etc. than I knew. This is my fifth (ok.. sixth if you count Version 1) ship and everyone has been a stretch in both experience, skills, and knowledge. This one is bit harder since it's really outside my comfort zone in that it's French. All my reference works before starting this were for English/American ships. I'm more in the zone but not 100% comfortable yet but I am enjoying the challenges and having fun with it.
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Hmm... 'Go Buckeyes'???? Then I see where you're from. I'm originally from Dayton.. very small world. Good luck on the Constellation build. BTW, <inserts joke> Do you know what a buckeye is? It's a round, poisonous nut. Don't fool with them. :D
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I remember that we had a build log or two but after searching, it must have been on MSW 1.0 (before the massive crash). As I recall, the kit makes a nice model. I'd look through the Longboat group builds for ideas and also search the Kit Build Logs with the keyword "small" as some of those are clinker planked. If you do decide to build it, open a build log as it will be the best way to help and encouragement. And you'll help the next person who builds it.
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Raj, There are a couple of articles here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-plans-and-research.php on what to expect in a model kit and on selecting a kit. I hope this will also help.
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Sam, The only ones visible would probably be the quarterdeck and forecastle ones at the open waist. I've been thinking about making knees for those anyway, or maybe the gangways will hide them... So the answer probably comes down to "why bother?" but I'm keeping options open.
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Sweet work on those boats, Grant. Hmm... laminating the frames for the boats. That sounds worthwhile to look into.
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Good question, Mike. I've been giving that some thought. The deck clamps will lay directing on top of the tabs. Once in place there's no need for them. However, I'll have to experiment and see if can remove them without damaging the frame. Oh boy.. another test!!!
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Ben, Very nice work on the oars. By the way, follow the instructions here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/540-how-to-add-pictures-in-your-posts-and-pms/ The problem is that you're probably not hitting the "add to post" button. You click the cursor where you want the photo and then hit the buttion.
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Ben, I think that's what I did with the first version. I'm more organized this time. Pat, That's what the pictures are for... printed out and close at hand. Augie, Battle of the Bulge? Let's think naval.... Jutland? Trafalgar? Thanks Sherry and also to everyone for the likes.
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Good for you, Lami. She looks good in the water.
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Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
mtaylor replied to SawdustDave's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
That is indeed modeling... The good part about it is that you're not filling a scrap box. -
Hmm.... smells like sardines??? or maybe tuna????
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Just a light update... been working on frames. Have several cut and test fitted and all reference points marked. The pics below show how I'm solving the issues that plagued me on Version 1.0. Since all measurements are referenced to the build board, I've added a tab to each frame to securely locate that point (green arrow). After I cut in that part of the frame, I fit it and re-measure, re-refrence the other points. One set of points is where the deck clamps need to be so the red arrows show those. 1/8" deck beam, a 1/8" clamp and 1/16" inch plank will put the deck height were it needs to be. This particular frame is #1 and thus, there's three decks.. lower, gun, and forecastle. The blue arrows reference the outside dimensions of the gun port cutout for the sill to sit properly. I'm using a 1/8" sill and when they're fitted I'll finesse them to be exact. The black arrows point to the line for the wales. These are small cuts into the frame and filled with colored glue to hightlight They only demarcate the transition line from wale to planking and vice versa. The black arrow with the white fill is the cutline for when this beast is finally cut from the build board. A top rail will sit on top of this line. I'm going slow and careful to avoid dong wrong what I did the last time.
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Jason, I think you're asking about Blacken-iT. You can order it from Micromark. The other is Casey's Brass Black which I think is available at some gun shops here in the States.
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I'll another criteria or two. Is this a real ship? Does it look like the ship it's supposed to be? Are all the fittings in scale or did the manufacturer toss in generic parts and call it good? It seems like many of the manufacturers are guilty of these. They have kits of ships with fake histories, or worse, it doesn't even look like the ship it's supposed to be. Wheels and block too big. Cannons either too big, too small or not even realistic. I could go on but this can also be criteria.
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Excellent work, Tony. I like those ebony barrels.
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- Caldercraft
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Jason, If you run into problems, like you did with the brass.. ask. There's lots of folks where willing to help.
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And "yes those are cann...." <sound of hammers being cocked and running feet of SWAT team>
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- granado
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Thanks for the likes and comments... Wayne, I'm at the step where take the re-made big pieces into small pieces with curves. Michiel, You are correct. There should be something we can make from all the sawdust... maybe mix it with glue and do sculptures? Grant, Luckily, I didn't do production line work when I worked... But there is a lot of satisfaction in turning out a piece, checking it, and putting it on the "good" pile. I had my share of "oh crap" pieces that are in the scrap box, but not as many as I thought I would.
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Joss, Aldo is doing a POB but ran into issues as I recall. I don't know if he was able to sort them out.
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So far, so good... Looking ship-shape! Here's a hint on that pesky rudder hardware... heat the brass redhot and then let it cool. It anneals the brass and makes it easier (a lot easier actually) to bend. If it work hardens while bending, repeat the heating process. You'll need to clean and blacken it or clean and paint it as the heat discolors it.
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Hank, Those frames look pretty darned professional to this eye. And I'm not seeing the differences. Pretty fantastic!
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HMS Druid by Krug - FINISHED - 1:48 - Hahn
mtaylor replied to kruginmi's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Lovely and precise work, Mark. They look great! -
Nice work on small tricky piece, Piet.
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