mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Richard, Do you have metal lathe or drill press? You can turn down the rod. If using a drill press, use files. Go to a fine file when you're close to the diameter needed.
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Andy, Tom beat me to it... You might also check with some film or photography studios around Toronto. They might even have some developed exposed film (that would be all black) in 70 mm format. The other thought would be to check with some the guys who make vinyl signs/graphics for cars. Some of those graphics are pretty thin in thickness.
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Mark, I've considered it as I can use the planking part of the Hahn plan for the baseboard. I may change my mind but at this point, I'm inclined to do this one the Hahn way and get more familiar with all the processes involved. With this project, compared to the other Hahn plans I have, there seems to be a fair amount of guesswork involved with things like transoms, quarter gallery and stern and head area construction... the stuff that really isn't included on the plans and needs to be worked out. The one part of this method that I do like is the rigidity of everything held in place by the buildboard. With the way I have my bench set up, in a very few minutes I can flip the ship completely over. I'm also looking ahead at my next project after this one and I'll be keeping the Antscherl method in mind as to what it would take to do one that way. Thanks for looking in and for you and Gaetan along with everyone else for giving me some food for thought. Far better than granola, IMO.
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For sharpening.. the link I gave above has a sharpening system available. There's also the Scary Sharp system which is probably one of the best. There's been several topics around here on the same question of sharpening and all have had solid answers.
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Positioning Cathead
mtaylor replied to robnbill's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Bill, I hope you'll start a build log. It will be the best way to get questions answered plus, for things like this, you'll leave a legacy for others. -
It's more like this: And the shingles are not full length.. look to roof of house with shingles. And also Ed T's Naiad.
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Hobbymill offers a complete Swan class package: http://www.hobbymillusa.com/wood-packages--supplemental-wood.php In addition to what Randall mentioned, there's also boxwood and swiss pear.
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Drilling Sheave Holes For Masts
mtaylor replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If you need to use the drill press, make a jig of a piece of wood with a deep "V" in it. Lay the part in the "V" and hold it tight while drilling. Russ's solution is a better one, IMHO. -
Excellent choice, Kevin. But then, I would have said that if you decided on the Bismarck. Going with your heart is the most important thing in this hobby. I hope you're back up to 100% or at least close to it.
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That belt does look like a .50 Cal belt... Nice work on the turret.
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Karl, By all means start a build log. I went and looked at mine and I would suggest using the smaller pulleys on the smaller of the bitts. If you use the bigger ones on the small bitts you won't have any strength left to the wood as the opening will be too large.
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TJ, Go look at Wang's Triton or any English Sloop or Frigate build (EdT's is a good one). The quarter gallery is flat on top with the "shingles" on the angled side of the top.
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Making sails from scratch for niagara
mtaylor replied to Don Quixote's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Take a look in here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-rigging-and-sails.php Particularly the article by John Tilley. It might be some help. -
Piet, I almost can't believe you're doing this.... almost. There was a reason you kept that lid and good for you. It will look great when you're done and of that, I have faith. BTW, my line about the cross-hairs was meant as humor.
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Thanks all for support and discussion. It's discussions like these that make one think. Augie, Thanks for the link. I think that will be useful for the side project I'm getting started on. Dave, Thanks for the input. I was probably closer on actual frame width on Version 1. Danny, They're horizontal athwartships, as far as I know. Makes it easier to notate where they go and also to fit and finish them. All, I'm going with the frames and fully planked. Logic may say otherwise but deep down, I know that this is way I need to do it. I need the test and need to pass it. I also have an Admiralty Directive that all ships will be fully planked and rigged. Hoping that at some point, I change the mindset of the Admiralty.. Anyway, back to the drafting board. I've got 10 down and 50 to go.
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Steve, The batten to check the fairing should be flexible to hug the curve of the hull. For sanding.. a little rubber cement will hold the sandpaper to the sanding stick.
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Augie, The closest Rockler's is 250 miles north in Portland. Hmm.... I'll have to think if it's worth a road trip, especially since I dislike driving in Portland. Danny, I hear you and know where you're coming from since I have the same view. I'm leaning towards a Confederacy type of planking with an open area below the main wales. My post #38 says fully framed even if the framing isn't French. I've been giving this some thought for a long time and the bulkheads, while quick and dirty, aren't what I want for this ship build. Gunports.. oh yeah... I hit those issues on the Version 1.0. Luckily (?) the sills are not bird-mouthed into the frames. But I can at least get within a few mm where the sills should be. Cleaning out the port area on the frames this time will be an issue since frames are only 5 mm (3/16") wide (fore and aft) and opening the port will take half that amount so I need to at least get some of the material (but not all) removed early on. There will be filler added on frames to help. This time around, I'm not going to stress out too much on the gunports. There's a few ports towards the bow where the clamp will need trimming at the top sill area but that's not a major issue. I'm doing this one right with timber that will be spot on to the dimensions as opposed to making them too thick. At this point, I think I know where I want to end up and that is NOT doing a Version 3.
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Steve, The best way to fair the frames is to run a batten (a strip of wood) over the frames and see if the frame beveling matches the batten. Many of us use a flexible strip of wood with sandpaper attached to it to fair things.
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Thanks all. I'm going to go with the frames. All of my "next" projects are fully framed and I want to get this technique down. Now that may change... but for now, I need to do it framed if nothing else than to prove to myself I can succeed. Gary, I got the info from a very reliable source who PM'd me about the framing. I think that at 1755 (when the ship was built) is what he meant about the frames. They were different than the English when they did appear, that's true. Anyway, I'm not ready to try lofting yet which is what it would take to redo the framing properly. Maybe down the road a bit.. Like when I'm ready for HMS Roebuck? For reference, I'm using the Bonhomme Richard, Frolich's book, as well as the websites of Bello, Delacroix, Mailliere, and some French forums (reading only via Google Translator). But, I will keep your offer in mind as sometimes conversation is needed instead of just reading. Druxey, Just curious if you have a source online? Even our aviation oriented hobby shop can't get good birch plywood. I have a side project for my Admiral I want to build that will need some good plywood (thin stuff <1/4").
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Hmm... food for thought, Chris.
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No biting... That's a fair and valid question and I did think about it to the point I went looking for wood. The bad news there was that the available ply is all warped beyond belief. I tried two DIY home improvement stores and 3 art supply stores. The DIY stores had 1/4" ply (nothing smaller), very warped and one side was horrible being rough and splintery and full of knots. I asked at both and they said "that's what we get lately.. it's all coming from (fill in Asian country... the big one)". The art stores between the 3 of them didn't have enough (either 1/8" or 3/16") to fill my needs and their wood while better, still gave concerns as it was warped and only 3-ply and not 5-ply which is more stable. I dunno... maybe it's because it's winter? So.. I told myself, I need the practice.
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Thanks Jan. I'm learning something new everyday.
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
mtaylor replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
As always, stunningly beautiful. I've gone back over the log many times just look and be reminded of what can be done.- 883 replies
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Footnotes to a build log. I'll update this one periodically as I find stuff that's not "correct" in the sense of the way things were actually done. 1) The framing and frame spaces are not correct. Hahn used the English method and not the French. The French didn't use cant frames or sistered frames at this point in time. Hahn's information on room and spaces was incorrect. Which, is another good reason to fully plank. However, primary Admiralty Orders: all ships to be fully planked.. <mumble mumble> 2) Mast tops and details such as blocks.... again, these are English. The French parts were different. 3) Cannon. Once again, these are English and not French.
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