mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Thanks all. I'm going to go with the frames. All of my "next" projects are fully framed and I want to get this technique down. Now that may change... but for now, I need to do it framed if nothing else than to prove to myself I can succeed. Gary, I got the info from a very reliable source who PM'd me about the framing. I think that at 1755 (when the ship was built) is what he meant about the frames. They were different than the English when they did appear, that's true. Anyway, I'm not ready to try lofting yet which is what it would take to redo the framing properly. Maybe down the road a bit.. Like when I'm ready for HMS Roebuck? For reference, I'm using the Bonhomme Richard, Frolich's book, as well as the websites of Bello, Delacroix, Mailliere, and some French forums (reading only via Google Translator). But, I will keep your offer in mind as sometimes conversation is needed instead of just reading. Druxey, Just curious if you have a source online? Even our aviation oriented hobby shop can't get good birch plywood. I have a side project for my Admiral I want to build that will need some good plywood (thin stuff <1/4").
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Hmm... food for thought, Chris.
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No biting... That's a fair and valid question and I did think about it to the point I went looking for wood. The bad news there was that the available ply is all warped beyond belief. I tried two DIY home improvement stores and 3 art supply stores. The DIY stores had 1/4" ply (nothing smaller), very warped and one side was horrible being rough and splintery and full of knots. I asked at both and they said "that's what we get lately.. it's all coming from (fill in Asian country... the big one)". The art stores between the 3 of them didn't have enough (either 1/8" or 3/16") to fill my needs and their wood while better, still gave concerns as it was warped and only 3-ply and not 5-ply which is more stable. I dunno... maybe it's because it's winter? So.. I told myself, I need the practice.
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Thanks Jan. I'm learning something new everyday.
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
mtaylor replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
As always, stunningly beautiful. I've gone back over the log many times just look and be reminded of what can be done.- 883 replies
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- royal caroline
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Footnotes to a build log. I'll update this one periodically as I find stuff that's not "correct" in the sense of the way things were actually done. 1) The framing and frame spaces are not correct. Hahn used the English method and not the French. The French didn't use cant frames or sistered frames at this point in time. Hahn's information on room and spaces was incorrect. Which, is another good reason to fully plank. However, primary Admiralty Orders: all ships to be fully planked.. <mumble mumble> 2) Mast tops and details such as blocks.... again, these are English. The French parts were different. 3) Cannon. Once again, these are English and not French.
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It breaks the surface tension of the liquid so that it smooths out.
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Or, in addition to what Crackers suggested, check out the Theses and Dissertations database (http://nautarch.tamu.edu/academic/alum.htm). There's a lot of useful information as well as some that are just plain good reading.
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Great looking dories, Martin.
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Thanks again for the wonderful comments and support everyone. One of the previous problems I had was no definitive reference points. This led to more than a few errors in the heat of battle... err.. building. I'm adding some things to the frame drawings... the cutline is being defined as are the wale locations, gunport, and deck clamps. Hahn defines these on his framing diagram but then suggests that we cut up his plans and use them to mark up the hull... I'm planning on "nicking" gently the frame at some of these points such as cutline, wales, putting in a nub to mount the deck clamps on, and as before, pre-cutting out the gunport area. I've also marked the frame drawings with lines at the outside/bottom edge of the build board so I don't make the frames over long. The frame in the pic doesn't have any gunport work but is representative and I still have another 54 frames to do... Lastly, I've mounted the framing diagram (since it has 95% of the reference points I need) on a piece of Masonite. When I'm done verifying each frame, I'll glue a strip of wood to overlay the baseboard line. This will give me a positive reference point when using the EdT Measuring Tool. Again, I know I had some issues getting the bottom end dead on the line for the base board consistently. For those who haven't see it, it's a great tool for transferring reference points from plans to the build. It came from Ed's Naiad build. Mine is made from boxwood with some brass fittings and a steel thumbscrew.
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I agree.. it'll be worth it in the end.
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What else can you do, Sjors? Come to the darkside.
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Have a look at Seawatch Books. They have his books, the TFFM series. Alternately, there's the Swan Class builds going on... Dan Vadas' and Toni Levine's builds come to mind.
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Drazen, I would think that coamings around all the gratings would be commonplace. Otherwise, in heavy seas that water will want to go through the gratings into the ship.
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Mike, Yes, it's built upside down. Also, Hahn didn't do plans with ledges, knees, etc. He wanted to build ships and left out a lot of the details. Others, he stylized, like the framing. His framing method is faster and more wasteful of wood than others. I think the last point is the major one... the method of making frames.
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Fake lenses? And no cross-hairs either? Seriously wonderful work, Piet. It's one thing to make the stuff look good and it's another to make it look good and actually work. You're doing the look good and work part and it's great.
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Nice work on her, Rob. Seems like all we do is glue... sand.. sand.... sand... check... curse... sand... sand.. Will Le Salamandre be a parallel project?
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David, I changed it for you. If you ever need to change it again, go to the very first post and hit "edit" then hit "use full editor". You can change the title there.
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Pat, It's ok to like it... I'm happy with the decision. Current thinking is that I'll line it with plastic and make into a window planter...
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Stan, I'll be here for this build. Looks like you're getting her sorted out. As for the gun.. it's a "pivot gun". There's a wheel at each corner of the base and the whole thing rotates on the track. There's a pin in the center of the base that secures it to the deck. My Constellation has two of them but they are of a much later era than the one yours has.
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Sherry, The repair is invisible. Great job. And, I love the way you did those carvings, so much so, I may steal that idea for my ship.
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Dan, Impressive companionway. Jeronimo's BHR has one. I think the Le Fleuron builds also have them. Crackers is correct... French ships but think it's only frigate and above. Assorted links: http://modelisme.arsenal.free.fr/jacquesmailliere/index.html http://gerard.delacroix.pagesperso-orange.fr/sommaire.htm http://modelisme.arsenal.free.fr/artdumodelisme/galeriegb.html There's a couple of forums that I visit but I'll need some time to run Google Translate to find the info.
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I have several different sets of the Dockyard brand from Woodcraft: http://www.woodcraft.com/category/5/1001138/2001361/DOCKYARD%20Micro%20Carving%20Tools.aspx We might as well have topic on these little jewels since sooner or later, we all want to carve. Or maybe not all of us.
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