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Sailor1234567890

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Everything posted by Sailor1234567890

  1. Your ironmongery is awesome Ed. Keep showing us how you do the magic that you do.
  2. If you look at a model of a man of war, there's a rope holding the bowsprit down. That's called gammoning. In newer vessels, it's usually a metal band that does the job.
  3. What information will be included with the hulls? Ship's name and some basic dimensions like LOA, LWL, Draught and Beam maybe?
  4. My understanding is that the distortion will be dependant on the scale and size. Small rowboats have been projection lofted but when you start dealing with multiple decks, complex shapes etc. it becomes too much and you'll never get it to properly transfer the correct shapes. Nobody has been able to successfully projection loft a large complex boat for the reasons you've discovered. I do recall an article in Woodenboat magazine a number of years ago about projection lofting though.
  5. Because you don't have enough ships being built right now? Looking forward to seeing your progress.
  6. Gammoning is the rope and a gammon is the (normally metal) strap that goes over a bowsprit to keep it from rising up. Not sure what fitting you're referring to though.
  7. That bowsprit fitting is properly called the cranse iron.
  8. I'd say pick the one that's closest to being done and concentrate on her. Then move to the next closest. Oh, and don't start any more new ones until you're at least closing in on the last one remaining.
  9. Does anybody know how nippers were passed in those days? I know we do it differently now than what' you've got shown here and was wondering if anyone knows for sure how it used to be done?
  10. I'd be inclined to put the lifeboats upright and the captain's jolly boat upside down. It wouldn't be used often whereas the lifeboats need to be ready at a moment's notice.
  11. Ed, As usual, your work is exquisite. I have a question about that lower top'sl truss. Are you taking it from drawings, scaling of photographs? A rigging plan? I can only imagine the stresses that piece must have been under as the lower top'sls were the last sails handed when stormy weather came so were therefore often the strongest sails in the ship. Still, that truss looks bulky to me. How does one determine who much structure is required to meet stresses of hard usage but not overdo it and add unnecessary weight aloft or make it "look wrong" in the process?
  12. What's the purpose of those hooked scarphs the whole length of the wale? Why not simply use straight planks?
  13. Have you tried soaking them in tea instead of using paint? Tea stains can look pretty convincing.
  14. By this period in time, most tops'l sheets were chain with a block and tackle out of rope. The wear around that block on the end of the yard and then the block in the middle of the yard underneath was quite severe. Theses ships rarely handed topsails as they were the last ones to be brought in so the sheets needed the best abrasion resistance they could get and chain was it.
  15. The more I watch your builds progress, the more impressed I am with your skills. Any idea what your next build might be?
  16. Those little wooden structures fore and aft are properly called "poppets". I like the idea of displaying her that way. Adds an element of realism to the whole thing.
  17. All the wood bending information I've read says 1 hour per inch of thickness. Seems to me for pieces the size of our ships, 1.5 hours would be much too long. I've never bent wood at this scale though, I do mine much larger.
  18. Another thought... Are the blocks rove or laced? With Triple blocks, there's a process to reeve them so the last part, the tailing part, comes out the middle sheave. This will allow for you to be pulling on the middle of the block rather than one side which might tend to capsize the block. This is called reeving the block. Otherwise, starting at one end and simply filling in the sheaves, it called lacing the block. Not optimal.
  19. I would tend to think having the working part come out of the lower block or at least a lead block on deck before going UP to the pin rail would be most logical. Firstly, you mention more men tailing on it which is important but also, I think it best to have tension compressing the uprights for the rail rather than trying to pry it off the deck pulling upwards. I'm designing just such a system in my boat and all leads will come up from the deck to make fast to the pin rails in order to keep everything under compression.
  20. I might need that PDF, I cannot picture what you're describing at all. I'm not familiar with the intersection feature and that may be why.
  21. Sorry to be keeping you up for 2 days straight Ed. It just struck me as odd how it was laid out. I've got some experience sailing square rig (not with Stunsl's though) and I quickly picked up on that little discrepancy. I Googled the Barque Picton Castle, admittedly a much later vessel. She is however extant today and has stunsl's. The gear is set up funny in that instead of a straight bar from the yard to the ring of the iron, it's a curved bar starting on top of the yard behind the jackline and curving forward so the ring is located where yours is. Outer boom iron isn't an issue as it's located outside the earing and does not interfere at all.
  22. I have underhill's book. It really is a goldmine. I purchased plans to a boat last year with the intention of building her. She's a 57 footer with a number of different rigs. I would love to put the Hermaphrodite Brig rig on her and if I can, I will include stunsl gear. Underhill has been invaluable in planning her rigging work. I have a few other sources like D'Arcy's book and a couple of others. Maybe the uppers were the only ones hauled up bunt first and I was mis remembering seeing a lower hauled up that way. I know the smaller like moonsails, skyscrapers and such were often hauled up on the yard.
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