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Sailor1234567890

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Everything posted by Sailor1234567890

  1. Picture posting skill? Check. Now you may proceed with wowing us with a build log. Aggie's a beautiful ship. Enjoy the build.
  2. The balloon idea came to me when people spoke of putting weights on the fortunes. In my mind, that would create straight lines between the weights. A single weight between stirrups would cause a V shaped fortune between, two weights would give a V with a flat ish bottom to it. I picture the balloon making it as close to catenary shaped as possible. there may be issues with it though. If anyone tries it, let the rest of us know.
  3. Period ships with draught marks always strike me as odd. The Plimsoll mark and attendant draught marks were not invented until the mid 1880s.
  4. That's a bigger model than I thought you were building. I just walked past her sister HMCS Sackville about 30 minutes ago. She's tied up in our dockyard at her winter berth.
  5. Just thinking out loud here but what if one were to install the footropes and then soak them in their favourite goo, be it diluted dark wood glue as Ed mentioned above or some other solution. After all the fiddly bits are done, insert a small balloon between each stirrup and inflate them just enough to provide the catenary desired. Once the glue dries, deflate the balloon and remove it. It should hold in a relatively catenary shape. Close enough for our purposes. Or maybe that's already been tried?
  6. How would one use Sketchup to lay out say a ship's helm. I'm picturing a classic 8 spoke with a bronze hub. The hub is round and has square holes around the perimeter. I understand making spokes round but how do you get a "hole" in the outer rim of the hub into which the spoke would fit?
  7. What did her stern look like originally? Does anyone have an image of a model of her with her original stern or are all models of her build with her rebuilt stern?
  8. What is the space with the little door at the bottom? Shot locker? I can't imagine opening that if the locker was full.... Can't figure it out. Thanks, Daniel
  9. Snorkers, Right-O! I'll be watching this one. The only flower class left in the world is tied up about 1.5 km from where I sit now. HMCS Sackville.
  10. I like the dark images. Really shows up the lines of the hull.
  11. The wrecked clipper ship is beautiful. Very well done.
  12. Pins further forward were for lower down bits and pieces. The further aft you went on the pin rail, the further up the line went. There's a logic to it. Pin rails were generally in the same location in each vessel, as near as can be, and the general sense of things was understood by anyone rated anything over landsman. For anyone interested in the subject, Harold Underhill's "rigging the clipper ship and ocean carrier" is an excellent tutorial on the subject. Written for modellers but it talks of the full sized vessels mostly. He was writing at the end of the age of sail, (WWII) and had knowledge of the subject matter first hand having sailed in some of the vessels earlier in his life. It may not be as pertinent to rigging your Victory or Sovereign of the Seas but for getting Clipper ships, larger steel vessels and a general sense for any vessel, I don't think it can be beat.
  13. Re-reading your question, I think using the waterlines would be the best way, not buttocks or ribbands. I think by ribbands, you mean the diagonals right?
  14. Could you put up an image showing what you mean? I can't picture how buttocks would be used to show the breadth of a vessel.They are essentially longitudinal station lines. They couldn't be used to determine breadth any more than station lines could be used to delineate profile in a profile drawing...... I need an image of what your'e talking about to picture it properly. Thanks, Daniel
  15. Write it off as battle damage repaired at sea. She's still a beautiful vessel you've built.
  16. It's like watching a full sized ship built before our very eyes. Looking forward to seeing her continue to grow. Merci.
  17. Most definitely not Cutty Sark. She never crossed 6 yards on the fore, only the main. Until 1885 when she was cut down. Hull is wrong for Cutty as well. Quarterdeck is off. That ship crosses upper and lower t'gallants and Cutty Sark only ever crossed single T'gallants. Double topsail's though as shown in the image. Dead thread.... resuscitating it?
  18. Nope, stretch it out full size. She's looking great so far though. Looking forward to seeing more of your progress.
  19. Normally the square part is just inside the pivot point and the reason for having it square is that the additional weight helps balance the oar to ease the workload on the oarsman.
  20. Higher coppering. A hull ALWAYS looks better lower in the water. Back then, they didn't worry so much about freeboard and a lower hull provides less windage. Not to mention, when the ship is fully laden, she's bound to sit lower in the water and a long whaling voyage would mean she's low in the water for the end of the voyage so needs the copper. No question you should copper to the higher line. She's looking good.
  21. I guess building the replica and not the original makes research a whole lot easier. She's looking good.
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