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Everything posted by DavidG

  1. before the upper deck fittings were made, I worked on some hull details. here the curved rails are being built up by small sections. after sanding, they will look as one piece, especially painted black. making the galleries, I reverted to the kit casting pieces, but attached a lip on them to allow planking. the back side if the lower casting is awful, required a lot of filler, something I still have to deal with. the planked surface allows building up the window framing, I used a scraped moulding horizontally, and formed the columns by gluing 1x1mm walnut dowels side by side. the windows will be framed with very thin white styrene strips. I don't have a photo of it, but visible on the first picture in this log. Later I stained the wooden elements dark brown, which much improved their look. Similar to the stern, I saw very good results made with kit parts only, so at the end not sure, it was worth the effort. the plan show sweep ports across the wales, suggesting to interrupt the middle wale at regular intervals to form rectangular openings. I wanted these to be closed, and finally decided only to hint the outline of the port but add some hinges to them. The sweep port outlines were cut from regular paper -it barely sticks out - and added the hinges, which were Amati rigging hooks in their previous lives. and their (pretty subtle) final look, painted black, but no varnish yet.
  2. I don't have many photos from the later stages, but here is one with the upper deck is on. Good bye, details below I made an attempt to have as many holes as possible - left the hatches open and made some false framing on the deck, cut out a section of the ply and glued strips to the opening, then covered the joints with deck planking.
  3. some last shots of the gundeck, before it finally got covered by the upper deck:
  4. Failures.. I spent a lot of time on customizing the kit and tried out several ideas, some of them worked and others not. In this post I show some of my failures, as they are a natural part of model building. at least for me.. deck beams. the kit provides a flat upper deck, I wanted to incorporate a proper curve. The idea was, the laminated planking strips (glued and dried in a template) will save me from sawing out them individually. While the strips kept their curve, they were simply weak for the purpose. It would have been better to bend the whole ply deck separately before gluing on. I put these beams to the model, but the deck remained more or less flat. I also had an idea, I can build a better gallery of wood instead of the cast metal pieces. I took measurements from the castings and made some supports, with the intention of planking it later. The flow between the sections wasn't smooth though, I took this apart and I reverted to the castings later. ships's wheel.. Can't recall what did I think.. used cast Amati wheels at the end. stern.. I decided against the cast/ PE kit pieces. The decorative pattern was copied to a boxwood sheet, and I cut it with a hand saw. It took several attempts to have one which didn't fall apart immediately, and fixed it to the model. I recognized my limitations as I can't make it any better and moved to other areas. After ten years it's still there and still not satisfied. The current plan is the radically reduce it's thickness, maybe a little dome shape in section, to look like more a painted decoration than carving. To be honest, I saw way better examples of this stern using the well prepared kit piece, and this might be a final option if everything fails.
  5. Chris, nice to see another Diana being built. You did a very fine job. I especially like how the head turned out. And your stern looks very good as well. I have the same ship on my desk for 12 years now on and off, you made already much more progress than I did. Keep on the good work.
  6. finally finished the gundeck, it was made a bit more interesting than the kit proposal. After being 2 years in the build so far, I pretty much liked it how it came out. Another question, how much remains visible of it when the upper deck installed (spoiler: almost nothing..).
  7. after having done two upgrades for the kit (guns + copper), I started to dislike some of the kit features. The gun deck seemed dull besides the the row of guns, so decided to add some furniture. My first adventures to scratch building parts. First remade the grating (these are the Amati ones): then I figured out, I can make a pump and other deck fittings.
  8. thank you for sharing these. Apart from the obvious quality of your work, I particularly like the use of the tools. You might have a very sophisticated workshop, but I see you work with tools any modeler might have. The skill makes the difference.
  9. thank you Chuck for looking in. you made a very valid point on the gratings - actually the same applies to most of the kit fittings. I replaced most of them over time, including the gratings, but this made the work very slow and broke up the flow several times. I just wonder on 1) how much other modeling I could have done without continuously removing and updating parts and.. 2) with this kind of time investment I could have built a better/ more authentic ship model. but for next time...
  10. great find, good luck with the build. It is interesting, how little these Corel kits changed. I built one not so long ago (different ship), and apart from the box, everything was the same like yours above. The ply frames, decks, down to the design of the plan folder.
  11. great work so far coming late into the diluted glue question... but I use the cut bottom of an ordinary beer can. there is a recess around it's circumference (where I put water) and a bump in the middle (where i put glue). this way they can be mixed on demand by a brush. after work I wash it and put away.
  12. after I finished the basic rigging of the guns, started the coppering. from one tedious job to another.. this was my first (and so far the only) attempt on coppering a hull, but it came out just fine. I used the Amati PE plates, they can be fit in longer strips which adds to the alignment and speed. There is a thin styrene strip on the upper edge, painted copper.
  13. I recently had to move a model in a short, 15 minutes driving distance, and creating a proper crate was not considered as an option. Not being the safest method, I'm not recommending this to anyone, but here goes my solution. I used cable ties to fix the base of the model to a large cardboard sheet. This prevented the model from being capsized, and any movement was absorbed by the space around it. I drove pretty careful, and the mission was succesfully accomplished. The ship shows some damage, but this comes from being abandoned 12 years on a shelf, not the transport operation.
  14. Chuck, wish you good luck and happy life after the changes. I'm not a production or engineering expert by any means, but isn't it possible, to set up CNC for block making? If the machine could produce unlimited quantities.. you can build a wider distribution through resellers and this may cover the cost. But you probably have the reason doing things the way you do, just interested. David
  15. thank you Rick. while I built this out of the box, there are several great examples of builders supporting their build with proper research, and correct the simplifications of the kit (like the upper bow planking, correct mast top, etc). Woody Joe makes a bit more elaborate version of the same ship (link) The kit is pretty straightforward to build, the only thing I would change is the installation of the deck beams, which are added in a very early stage in the build. The protruding beam ends are very difficult to nicely plank around. I see no reason to do that, the beams could be added once the second planking finished, with the rectangular openings left open during the planking. good luck to your build.
  16. once I had the basic hull set up, started working on the guns. I planned to populate the gun deck will carriages (instead of dummies) throughout. A very fiddly job, but I was enthusiastic about it. I purchased aftermarket cannon kits (they are made of pear) and after sanding, staining assembled them. I also changed the barrels to stock Amati items, I wanted to have them uniform, and they were just the right size. A barrel is test fitted for checking height: I fully rigged the visible guns. The barrel is only a temporary fit here, they will be painted black and the breeching rope added. I used 2mm blocks for this.
  17. finally, some deck fixtures were made, following the kit instruction. I didn't know that time, but these were almost the last features built by the kit, and what follows is a long process of experimenting with all its failures and successes.
  18. Having the hull shape and the gunports ready, the second planking can start. I never had such an easy planking job like this. The hull shape is very friendly. In addition, the strips are so thin, like paper, it's really about just gluing them side by side. There is large grain, the reddish color makes it typical kit look - but at least easy to work with.
  19. and here are some recessed ports, with future lids. Inspired by the painted models, I used the second planking material to show a light stripe over the gunports, and planked dark above and below. This is the final cover - it's a pity, there is so much visible grain. the wales are also built up using first planking strip. At the end the wales come out smooth but I recall an endless loop of filling/ sanding/ painting to reach the final stage.
  20. the bottom of the ports are cut, and filler pieces inserted to the upper edges. finally the gunports can be framed. the example below is a port without lid. I had some spare strips for this, but soon I had to order more material. The wales are buing built up. The upper wale strip (first planking) was installed originally as temporary one for the gunport positioning, but it is the right size and the bending qualities were better than the thick walnut (?) one, and choose to use it for the wales.
  21. finally both bulwarks installed and the gundeck planked. The red color is an ordinary water based €1 wood stain from the hardware store, but worked very well for this model. I wish I still had a jar of it, unfortunately now out of production. further investigation revealed the first mistake (many more will follow...). The kit originally designed with dummy gun barrels on the gundeck (except for the middle four), and their height under the closed areas are relatively unimportant. Not so with my planned carriages - now all of the ports are too high. The white paper templates mark the correct height from upper edge of the wale, the thin planks are the correct lower and upper edges. Let's correct all the 28 of them.
  22. the first bulwark piece in place. again, the fit of the precut part was very good. it will be covered with first planking later. besides not using the metal gunports, I also decided, I will build the gundeck with actual guns. I planked the whole gundeck, even it will not be visible. the deck planking material was pretty poor, unevenly cut and very brittle. A good scraping helped a bit.
  23. the kit provided cast metal gunports, which I decided against in favor of wooden lining. for this reason, I had to enlarge the gunport openings. and here is my sophisticated bending device, I still use different sizes of glasses and pots for bending. the soaked template stays on the former overnight.

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