Louie da fly Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share #451 Posted February 11, 2022 Gluing ratlines to the fore-topmast and fore-topgallant shrouds (to be trimmed later). Finally glued the mainmast in place, and added the lower main shrouds - the starboard ones already had ratlines glued on and deadeyes in place, but needing to be attached to the channel. Glued the dragon figurehead in place. Carved oars for the longboat And added the oars, the mast and spar (I haven't been able to find anything out about what rig these vessels would have had, so I've copied Dutch contemporary pictures and given her a spritsail rig) And glued the hatch cover and longboat in place on the main deck. I had to wait until the mainmast was glued in place before I could close up the hatch - otherwise I wouldn't have been able to see when I was slotting the bottom of the mast into the mast-step - it's been quite a wait. Steven druxey, egkb, BLACK VIKING and 10 others 13 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baker Posted February 11, 2022 Share #452 Posted February 11, 2022 Always nice to follow this build and be surprised what some can do on this small scale. Great "small" work Steven Louie da fly, mtaylor, Jeff T and 1 other 3 1 Quote Regards, Patrick Finished : Soleil Royal Heller 1/100 Wasa Billing Boats Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch) Pelican / Golden Hind 1/45 scratch Current build : Mary Rose 1/50 scratch große-jacht / Yacht D'Oro 1/50 Corel Gallery : Revell Bounty Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch Shore leave, non ship models build logs : ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72 Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72 Autoblinda AB40 1/72 122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72 10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e) Centurion Mk.1 conversion M29 Weasel 1/72 SAM6 1/72 T26 Finland T26 TN 1/72 Autoprotetto S37 1/72 Opel Blitz buses 1/72 Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72 Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72 Cleaning the 1/72 military collection Si vis pacem, para bellum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share #453 Posted February 12, 2022 To be honest, most of it isn't really much harder than in bigger scales - except the deadeyes! Oh, dear, they're a real problem (not threading them, making them small enough and drilling the holes so they don't split. Then finding fine enough thread to run the lanyards. In the end I gave up on the deadeyes for the topmasts and topgallants - just wasn't practical - I just left them off. They're so tiny you really have to look hard to see they're missing. Steven Roger Pellett, Keith Black, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share #454 Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) I wasn't happy with how the ratlines on the fore topmast and topgallant worked out - cutting off the free ends with scissors, craft knife, anything, just didn't work well. Nothing was sharp enough, even when I used a brand-new craft knife blade. The thread "feathered" and went messy; sometimes even came away. So I decided to try a different method on the main mast, and if it worked I'd re-do the foremast. First steps the same - glue the shrouds together, and then onto the mast at the top, with a lot of free thread at the bottom. Then glue each shroud to the edge of the fighting top, with a small peg as a weight to pull the shroud straight. Then glue the ratlines on one by one, with an overlap at each end. So far exactly the same as before. But here's the change. Once all the ratlines were glued on, I removed the shroud/ratline assemblies from the mast, turned them over on the cutting board, and trimmed the ends off with a sharp craft knife. Then glued the assemblies back in place. Still not perfect, but a lot better than the previous method. So I'll definitely re-do the ones on the foremast. Now attaching the lower deadeyes, one by one, to the starboard main channel. NOTE: This is NOT the standard way of doing this - it's my own method that I evolved because I already had the shrouds and ratlines in an existing assembly, because I didn't know what I was doing when I was seventeen. And all deadeyes in place (sorry about the photo quality). I was even able to re-use some that I'd made back in the day. I'll be fixing these in place with CA so they don't come loose when I tighten the lanyards, and also trim and fix the lower ends to the hull, as though they are the chains - because when I was seventeen I didn't know chains existed. Now on the larboard side, temporarily gluing the shrouds to the main channel so I can glue on the ratlines to match the starboard configuration. Again, I'm re-using the old shrouds - in this case I never got around to gluing the ratlines on. Note the small peg used as a weight to put tension on the shroud. All lower shrouds in place and beginning to glue on the lower ratlines - don't worry about the scruffy glue at the bottom where the shrouds meet the channels. That will all be sorted later when I add the deadeyes. And now completing the main stay by adding its upper deadeye and lanyards. I won't fully tighten it up until later in case the other rigging affects the tension. As mentioned before, the mainstay splits into two and passes both sides of the foremast. Adding the main topmast shrouds. And gluing the ratlines onto them. Steven Edited February 16, 2022 by Louie da fly Roger Pellett, Cirdan, mtaylor and 12 others 15 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted February 16, 2022 Share #455 Posted February 16, 2022 Looks like that is working out well for you, Steven. mtaylor and Keith Black 2 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiefClanker Posted February 16, 2022 Share #456 Posted February 16, 2022 Your model is looking very good! Keep up the good work. Mark Keith Black and mtaylor 2 Quote Results, not Excuses, ChiefClanker “Behold, how good and pleasant it is when brothers and sisters dwell in unity!" Ps 133:1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANYAN Posted February 16, 2022 Share #457 Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) The effort was worth it Steven; looking good. cheers Pat Edited February 16, 2022 by BANYAN Keith Black and mtaylor 2 Quote If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch) Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350) Built: Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted February 19, 2022 Author Share #458 Posted February 19, 2022 (edited) And some more . . . Steven Edited February 19, 2022 by Louie da fly druxey, Jeff T, egkb and 10 others 13 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Pellett Posted February 20, 2022 Share #459 Posted February 20, 2022 (edited) Steven, When I looked in to see your progress, I accidentally hit the first post of your first page and was reminded how little that you actually had to start with when you decided to rescue this model. Very well done. Roger Edited February 20, 2022 by Roger Pellett Baker, Ian_Grant, Keith Black and 2 others 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted February 20, 2022 Author Share #460 Posted February 20, 2022 (edited) Thanks for the comment, Roger, and to everyone for the likes. I just looked at the date on the first page of this log. It's taken me over 6 years to get to this stage (though on further inspection it appears I had a gap of two and a half years where I did nothing on it. Don't feel quite so bad about it . . .) Steven Edited February 20, 2022 by Louie da fly Baker, Keith Black and mtaylor 3 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted February 27, 2022 Author Share #461 Posted February 27, 2022 Some good news and bad news. First the good news; I've finished adding the ratlines on the larboard main shrouds. In progress: All ratlines in place but before trimming After trimming Now the bad news - the main starboard deadeyes really aren't working. They're all over the place, some of the deadeyes themselves have broken (red circles below - they're made of wood), they're different sizes, different distances apart, some twisted (yellow circle), the holes have pulled through so the lanyards terminate in the wrong places (blue circle) - and I have no idea what happened in the green circle. Add to that the fact that some of the lanyards got glued into the holes so I couldn't pull them tight. Gak! I think I really need to re-examine all of these, probably rip them all off and start again doing it differently. I've started experimenting, but not having a lot of success so far. Steven BANYAN, egkb, ChiefClanker and 8 others 5 4 2 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baker Posted February 27, 2022 Share #462 Posted February 27, 2022 This is indeed not good I think it is best that the grain of the wood of the deadeyes is in the same direction as the holes you drill in them. 37 minutes ago, Louie da fly said: probably rip them all off Think about it first before you do drastic things 😉 ChiefClanker, mtaylor and Keith Black 3 Quote Regards, Patrick Finished : Soleil Royal Heller 1/100 Wasa Billing Boats Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch) Pelican / Golden Hind 1/45 scratch Current build : Mary Rose 1/50 scratch große-jacht / Yacht D'Oro 1/50 Corel Gallery : Revell Bounty Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch Shore leave, non ship models build logs : ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72 Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72 Autoblinda AB40 1/72 122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72 10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e) Centurion Mk.1 conversion M29 Weasel 1/72 SAM6 1/72 T26 Finland T26 TN 1/72 Autoprotetto S37 1/72 Opel Blitz buses 1/72 Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72 Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72 Cleaning the 1/72 military collection Si vis pacem, para bellum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrythestaffy Posted February 27, 2022 Share #463 Posted February 27, 2022 Steven, let me know if you want me to print some for you. Paul Keith Black and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted February 27, 2022 Share #464 Posted February 27, 2022 Is the material the deadeyes are made from really suitable at that size and scale? How frustrating for you. Keith Black and mtaylor 2 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liteflight Posted February 27, 2022 Share #465 Posted February 27, 2022 I love the ethos on MSW: if it’s not good enough - repeat till (the builder) satisfied Steven, you might consider using thin Paxolin (resin-bonded paper or cloth). Very strong and won’t do the splitting that wood is prone to. Bonus - it’s not too far from wood colour! Disadvantage: smell of phenolic resin when drilling alternative: thin birch ply (0.4mm) maybe in two laminations depending on the thickness required i make small holes in this ply with a needle - sometimes a hot needle Both materials would laser-cut easily, toooo andrew Stop press: Activity detected at Viking Shipyard! blog creaks into action Ian_Grant, mtaylor and Keith Black 3 Quote Andrew "Pas d’elle yeux Rhone que nous” Kits under the bench: Le Hussard (Started in the 1980s) Scratch builds: Volante, Brig (R/C): Footy Drakkar "Rodolm" (R/C). Longship Osberg (R/C) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share #466 Posted March 1, 2022 Thanks everybody for the reactions, and suggestions on how to fix it. Baker and Druxey, I really think that wood isn't capable of this kind of job - I don't have any boxwood so I don't know its grain would be fine enough, but I think it would be the only wood suitable - and maybe even that wouldn't work. I've tried pear wood and it splits as well. I've tried card impregnated with white glue and it works better, but still not really all that wonderful. Don't worry, I'm not going to do anything drastic until I have a better solution, but I really think the current deadeyes have to go. Liteflight, I've never heard of Paxolin. Where do you get it in Oz? I don't think the birch would work any better than what I'm using, but I have considered the hot needle method - just a matter of practicality; over 100 deadeyes each with 3 holes, without burning my fingers . . . Henrythestaffy, I'm sending you a PM. Thanks again, everyone. Steven mtaylor, Baker and Keith Black 3 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted March 1, 2022 Share #467 Posted March 1, 2022 Steven, I think you'd be better served impregnating the card with CA instead of white glue. mtaylor 1 Quote Current Builds: 1870's Sternwheeler, Lula Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share #468 Posted March 1, 2022 Hi Keith, I tried that. Really not as satisfactory. Steven mtaylor and Keith Black 2 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted March 1, 2022 Share #469 Posted March 1, 2022 Have you tried a very thin CA to impregnate wood the size you need? Otherwise, it sounds like you'll need to go to plastic. Baker and Keith Black 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaPhil Posted March 1, 2022 Share #470 Posted March 1, 2022 Steven, Henry Grace a Dieu is looking phenomenal. What’s the wood grain orientation on the dead eyes that are holding? At that size, that would become a factor. Also, I’ve used thin CA on small wood parts to shore them up before. Keith Black and Baker 2 Quote Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans) 1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share #471 Posted March 1, 2022 Just to answer a question several of you have asked, the grain orientation is up and down or side to side (depending on which way up the deadeye is), not front-to-back. I think that would be an even worse invitation for the wood to split. Steven Keith Black and mtaylor 2 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liteflight Posted March 1, 2022 Share #472 Posted March 1, 2022 Steven Paxolin, also known as Tufnol ( both trade names). It’s Sunday name is SRBP ( synthetic resin bonded paper). Resin is phenolic, and it’s equally strong in all directions at right angles to the sheet ( what we need for dead eyes its stronger brother SPBF (Tufnol Carp) is the same resin bonded into cotton fabric - even stronger and tougher they all seem to be available in Aus from electrical and gasket suppliers, 0.5 mm to 75 mm thick https://agaus.com.au/?s=Srbf https://au.rs-online.com/web/b/tufnol-/ I should go back and see what thickness you are using. Tufnol sheet goes down to 0.4 mm and I would guess you are using something like 1mm, or 40thou to its friends. Birch! I was speaking of my favourite birch ply! 0.4 mm thick 3-ply. A couple of laminations of that and little matters like “grain” and “ tearing” are history Best way to make the lanyard holes would be laser - I have found many places in Melbourne who will laser cut from a program ( or drawing) and will supply material or use yours. They might bilk ( or balk) at phenolic because of the fume properties. Birch ply cuts beautifully, so they could nest many deadeyes and spares and cut them in one pass Sadly my flying buddy with a CO2 laser died last year or I would offer to get them made as a trial andrew mtaylor and Keith Black 2 Quote Andrew "Pas d’elle yeux Rhone que nous” Kits under the bench: Le Hussard (Started in the 1980s) Scratch builds: Volante, Brig (R/C): Footy Drakkar "Rodolm" (R/C). Longship Osberg (R/C) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liteflight Posted March 1, 2022 Share #473 Posted March 1, 2022 Reread the shroud saga! Reminded myself how small these bastards devices are! Snippet of info that may help you or other threaders of gnats eyes: fly tying thread is not round but flattish with many near-parallel strands with a slow helix (for good and sufficient fly-tying reasons). It therefore can be split into thinner strands. This info from https://www.bottledshipbuilder.com/topic/393-fly-tying-thread-for-rigging/ BTW - there is a staggering amount of info about the small side of model shipbuilding which we all might find interesting in the forums I have some fly thread - again the thinnest that was available at a local shop called "the compleat angler" about 5 minutes from me. They are probably still laughing on finding out the intended uses of the materials I buy I'll have a wee keek at the fly thread and see if I can split it - I'm intrigued now andrew mtaylor 1 Quote Andrew "Pas d’elle yeux Rhone que nous” Kits under the bench: Le Hussard (Started in the 1980s) Scratch builds: Volante, Brig (R/C): Footy Drakkar "Rodolm" (R/C). Longship Osberg (R/C) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liteflight Posted March 1, 2022 Share #474 Posted March 1, 2022 https://www.bottledshipbuilder.com/topic/34-thread-silk-rope-etc/?do=findComment&comment=876 This thread mentions actual sizes, and also the makeup of fly threads from multiple strands andrew Quote Andrew "Pas d’elle yeux Rhone que nous” Kits under the bench: Le Hussard (Started in the 1980s) Scratch builds: Volante, Brig (R/C): Footy Drakkar "Rodolm" (R/C). Longship Osberg (R/C) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANYAN Posted March 1, 2022 Share #475 Posted March 1, 2022 Steven, I have some 'privet' which is in the boxwood genus. This is a dense wood which is very tight grained and strong, but as with any wood when you go thin, it loses strength. I can spare you some if you would like to experiment/use it? cheers Pat mtaylor and Keith Black 2 Quote If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch) Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350) Built: Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Pellett Posted March 4, 2022 Share #476 Posted March 4, 2022 How about impregnating them with shellac or clear lacquer based natural l polish. Either one is nicer to work with than UGH! CA glue. mtaylor and Keith Black 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted March 4, 2022 Author Share #477 Posted March 4, 2022 Thanks everybody for the suggestions. Fortunately it looks like @henrythestaffy is coming to the rescue by 3D printing a whole bunch of them for me. My heartfelt thanks, mate. And this is the reason I'm having so much trouble making the deadeyes out of natural materials: That deadeye is 2mm on each side. I haven't been able to make any myself that are smaller than 3mm. And keeping in mind that those three holes have to be big enough for cotton thread to fit through . . . Steven Baker, Cirdan, BLACK VIKING and 6 others 8 1 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted March 4, 2022 Share #478 Posted March 4, 2022 This is the wonderful part of a community like MSW; folk helping each other out. Kudos to Henry! mtaylor, Keith Black and BANYAN 3 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted March 4, 2022 Author Share #479 Posted March 4, 2022 8 hours ago, druxey said: Kudos to Henry! I totally agree. Not only henry, but over the years I have had so much generous unselfish help from many MSW members which has been invaluable to me. This is a pretty special forum. Steven druxey, Keith Black, Dave_E and 3 others 6 Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler La Lomellina - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516 FINISHED Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henrythestaffy Posted March 5, 2022 Share #480 Posted March 5, 2022 Steven i have two lots of deadeyes totalling about 250 so far. The sides are a bit straighter than the previous ones but not completely straight. I found they didnt print very well unless i added a bit of meat around the holes. I have made the ends a lot tighter as you wanted as well. I reckon if i print this amount again it should give you enough to complete your task . I should have them finished on monday for you. regards Paul usedtosail, druxey, BANYAN and 10 others 9 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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