HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale

[Chuck]

I have a crazy busy next two days.  But if  I can manage to squeeze it in I will try and take some photos of the simplified method I use.  You dont need anything to hold the breech line except your fingers if this method suits you.  There are so many ways to do it and everyone has theirs thats suits them.  But I will share mine.  It wont make sense without photos so its not something I can just describe.

[Tossedman]

Those look great Erik! What did you use for the cap squares?

 

Cheers,

 

Todd

[glbarlow]

This  Helping Hands  is an essential tool for all rigging in my opinion. This link is for US Amazon, I’m sure they are available elsewhere online. They come in multiple sized base plates with different types and amount of arms. I like this smaller plate with four arms, I later acquire a fifth arm. I used to use a cheap smaller version, this one though was a game changer for my rigging, makes it all much easier. You have many seizings in your future. 
 

I think it was when I built Cheerful I first used it, post 669 and 706 among others show it in action. 

Edited Monday at 01:13 AM by glbarlow

[Erik W]

Thanks for the feedback guys!

 

Peter,  Thanks for the advice.  I rigged up a temporary tool with a alligator clip on a wood block.

 

Chuck,  If you have time, I'd appreciate any photos you can post of your method.

 

Todd,  My cap squares were made from strips of black construction paper with the hinge being represented by 24 gauge wire.  Low tech, but they actually look pretty good.

 

Glenn, Yes!  I had actually seen the helping hand you used in your post on the breech rope.  As I get closer to the main rigging phase, I'll definitely keep those in mind.

 

Thanks all,

Erik

[Chuck]

 

Start with a breech rope slightly longer than you will need.  Have four eyebolts with rings at the ready.   Also have whatever line you intend to use for seizing ready.   In my case some mara 120 thread that matched my rope color.  Note that I have made a loose granny knot on this.  Or one simple overhand knot but left open and ready to go!!!

Place one ringbolt on the rope and simply bend it over to form a loop.  Leave the tail a bit longish.  I just squeeze the loose loop as shown below with my fingers.  No helping hands needed.  Then I slip the seizing "open knot" onto the end.   Easy peasy.  Then cinch it tight....

This is what it looks like.  And yes the seizing needs to be pushed closer to the end of the breech and ringbolt.  No glue as of yet.

Use a tweezers that you are comfy using for this stuff.   Slide the seizing which is still just a loose overhand knot closer to the end.   It may open a bit.  Thats OK.  Just tighten it again when the seizing is where you want it.  At this stage I place the tiniest bit of CA glue (any glue will work here)  on the knot after tightening it.  Then I use my fingers to brush away any excess so it doesnt make the rope stained or discolored.   Yes you get CA on your fingers.   But the rope stays perfectly clean.   I see folks moaning that CA darkens and stains the rope.  This is nonsense if you wipe most of it away before it dries and you dont use too much to begin with.

No discoloration....super simple method and no helping hands or wacky jigs yet.

It may be hard to see in the photo below.   But

I take one loose end of the seizing and pinch it between my fingers and away from the seizing.   I am basically pinching the ringbolt and top of the looped breech line.   See the other loose end hanging off the far side?

Take that loose end and simply wrap it around the breech two or three times.  I have seen folks wrap like 25 times and make a long seizing.,  This never lays correctly and will look sloppy.  I keep my seizings always very short with at maximum only 3 wraps around.  Then I add a drop of CA to the top of the wrapped seizings.  Just a small drop.   No knotting needed.   I pinch and brush the excess CA away with my fingers to keep it clean without darkening at all.  It will only stain if you douse it with way too much CA.  What  a mess that makes and changes the texture of the rope.  Your fingers get sticky and pull the fibers of the rope etc.  I just dip a toothpick into some CA on a scrap piece of wood and barely touch the seizing.  

Then using a tiny scissors which I have maybe 5 of.....these are spring loaded micro scissors that are very sharp.   I cut the loose ends of the seizing very close to the breech rope.  You dont want to see any sticking out after cutting.  Sometimes a mall amount of CA on that end and using a tweezers to fold it into the breech rope will solve this issue.   I hate when the cut loose ends stick out.  Cut both loose ends.

 

Its nice and neat and no discoloration or staining.  Rope is clean and crisp as it should be.  Note the long "loose" end of the breech rope.

Time to trim that with a sharp blade.  Trim it close and at an angle.  To keep the end of the cut rope from fraying I sometimes put some CA on the op where I am going to cut it.  Then immediately wipe it away with my fingers again to keep it clean before it dries.   

The cut end....note the angle of the cut and the clean rope with no fraying or staining.

Then slide two ringbolts on the breech rope which will be inserted on the gun carriages later.  Take the last one and repeat the process to seize the other end just like we described.

 

Only now you should slide the cinched seizing and adjust the length so the overall breech rope is the correct length.   Then just finish it as you did the other side.

Then I make a simulated fake splice in the center to place on the  cannon or Carronade.  I make sure one of those ring bolts are on each side of the center first.  It is very important.  Then I use my plan for the breech line to find the center.   I use a sharp awl to then pierce the center of the breech rope.   I always use 4 strand breech rope so I can pierce it with two strands on each side.  Then I use some CA to stiffen the splice and keep its shape.   I pinch and brush away the excess before it dries....right away.   It will hold its shape.   No shiny spots or staining or dicoloration.

Finished breech rope.

 

[Erik W]

Chuck,

 

Thank you so much!!  I'm glad to see you also posted this tutorial on your Speedwell log.  This needs a wider audience.  This step by step tutorial is exactly what I needed.  I had done my second breech rope yesterday, which turned out well, but I still was fumbling around with how to best hold/secure the breech rope and seizing thread while making the seizings.  So far my outcomes have been fine, but the process of fumbling through it has been super irritating.  So this will help a lot. 

 

Also, I did have the thought that because rigging is new to me, and unlike any other modeling skill I've mastered over the decades, I'm feeling that beginner frustration with how to best approach it.  At least my finished product looks good.  I just now need to develop the skill set to venture forth confidently.

 

Thanks again Chuck.  I really do appreciate it!

Erik

[Chuck]

You are welcome…any time.

[Erik W]

Chuck,

 

When you came up with the rope list for the Cheerful, did you figure in extra rope, like you did extra wood with the wood list?

 

And I just made my 3rd breech rope following your method above.  Much less frustrating, and it took about 35 minutes total, compared to 1 1/2 hours for the last breech rope I made.  And no pulling out the seizings and starting over.

 

Erik

[Chuck]

Yes ….I always add a bit extra.

[oakheart]

12 hours ago, Chuck said:

ready to go!!!

Thanks for this brilliant tutorial @Chuck I have  made some new rope on my shop made ropewalk and just about ready to rig the cannons on my 'Speedy'

Tim

[JpR62]

Many thanks Chuck for this very precise tutorial. An effective method that gives absolutely perfect results. I'll be using it very soon for the carronades on my 'Cheerful'. 😄