Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Great idea with the sticky tack. That looks like a great way to hold those small parts for painting. I will have to remember that one for later use.

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

Posted

Keep up the work and showing us what you are doing - we are all very interested.

Kind regards

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

I probably won't use this technique here with this model, but there is something else you can do with blue tack that's interesting.

If you are doing an airbrushed camouflage on a model... flatten, shape and use the blue tack as a masking. Then when you paint, sort of spray the paint where it comes over and across the blue tack mask and applied to the surface to be painted. If done properly, you will get a blended mask separating the colors rather than a hard line you would get with masking tape. I don't know if the way I am explaining it does the technique justice. On another day and subject, will share the technique with photos and step by step if anyone is interested. Another good feature of it is that it will not peel off paint as sometimes masking tape has a tendency to do. However, you don't want to leave it on a painted surface too long. I usually remove it as a masking as soon as my paint is dry to the touch so as not to spoil any paint under the mask.  

Posted

I have this kit in my closet but have been patiently waiting for Pontos Model to produce a PE detail set to start it.  It's a daunting kit even with adding PE and a wood deck.  But it's a beautiful ship with graceful lines (at least after they added the Atlantic bow).  I'll be following along with interest!

Posted

I have this kit in my closet but have been patiently waiting for Pontos Model to produce a PE detail set to start it.  It's a daunting kit even with adding PE and a wood deck.  But it's a beautiful ship with graceful lines (at least after they added the Atlantic bow).  I'll be following along with interest!

Bill

 

I just received a Pontos detail set for the 1:350 Essex aircraft carrier. I may have bit off more than I can chew. Incredible amounts of small detail. Don't know if I will be able to see or work with all of it. It will be a challenge for certain.

Posted

 

 

I just received a Pontos detail set for the 1:350 Essex aircraft carrier. I may have bit off more than I can chew. Incredible amounts of small detail. Don't know if I will be able to see or work with all of it. It will be a challenge for certain.

 

I have the Pontos set for the USS New Jersey so I know exactly what you mean.  The instructions look pretty good but you do hear complaints from time to time that they are insufficient.  I just finished Tamiya's new Yamato kit using the Pontos wood deck plus Tamiya's AM railings, degaussing cable, and 18" guns.  I have never drilled so many holes in my life.  Took me a couple years but after finishing and taking a break I'm ready for my first wood project.  Yikes.

Posted

I have the Pontos set for the USS New Jersey so I know exactly what you mean.  The instructions look pretty good but you do hear complaints from time to time that they are insufficient.  I just finished Tamiya's new Yamato kit using the Pontos wood deck plus Tamiya's AM railings, degaussing cable, and 18" guns.  I have never drilled so many holes in my life.  Took me a couple years but after finishing and taking a break I'm ready for my first wood project.  Yikes.

Sounds a bit like my build that will not be finished anytime soon possibly 2017-18 :o

 

OC

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

Well I have to tell you, the instructions for the Pontos Essex set is less than stellar to put it mildly.

But I am lucky. A friend gave me the Trumpeter Essex kit along with a great photo packed book on Essex class carriers. The book should help me where it can be hard to identify from the instructions where some of the small parts go.  

Posted

Dozens upon dozens of parts went into constructing this part of the superstructure. Still need to add some small assemblies (guns, range finders, masts, and search lights) before this little sub section is completed.

This was my first foray into the adhesive backed wooden decks. The ones seen here came with the Art Vox deck set. Everything else is right out of the kit box, including the photo etch pieces. It's amazing and at the same time tedious how they have broken down the smallest parts into multi piece assemblies. Even the little doors are separately molded plastic.

 

DsfgczX.jpg

 

tcTjsMC.jpg

 

gOeYKE6.jpg

 

c0R4rID.jpg

Posted

Fantastic work. I know all those parts are a pain to install but the end result is more than worth it. You are going to have an awesome model when completed.

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

Posted

I'm going to be posting some new photos very soon. But before I post new photos, I just wanted to say how critically important it is with this model to carefully test fit and look ahead in the instructions to see more clearly exactly how the parts are intended to go together. This is specifically true where various sub assemblies go together to make a final major assembly but its not limited to just and only that. 

Part of the problem here I think is that the model is very complex. The instructions offer no verbiage whatsoever, but only some types of "universal" (I'm assuming) symbols that are not intuitive. Unfortunately, no part of the instructions give any indication of the meaning of these symbols.

Some parts of various sub assemblies require that certain parts be installed only after the sub assemblies have been put in place. But the problem is that nowhere in the instructions are you warned of this. You only learn after you have either gone through much labor in testing and/or trial and error.

This is not intended to scare anyone away from building this beautiful kit as the results are worth the effort. But it's just a word to the wise.

This is not your 1950's-1970's Monogram/Revell/Airfix kit by any stretch of the imagination. 

Posted

I finished quite a bit of the superstructure work, but there remains lots of little details to be added. Also, applied the wooden deck material. 

What I have pictured here are the major superstructure sub assemblies sitting on top of the deck, not glued down. As well, the deck is just sitting in place, not glued. 

What I intend to do is to begin painting the camouflage pattern on the hull, then put some of that pattern on the superstructure pieces as required before gluing them in place on the deck. I have them painted in the major colors required, but they need that final touch. As well, there remain a bunch of details to add, including railings, guns, life boats, rafts, search lights, etc., etc.

If anyone sees something I need to do differently or add, please let me know. I am always open to constructive criticism.

This is the first time I have used that self adhesive wood decking. It's a little tricky getting it in the exact place you want it while it wants to stick to everything in near proximity whether you want it to or not. And once it is stuck down, I doubt it could be removed without completely destroying it.

 

 

8hnuwe5.jpg

 

87CDPf5.jpg

 

gQFachR.jpg

 

BjvTgf0.jpg

 

cMgUThh.jpg

 

18G7uoQ.jpg

Posted

It lifts fine with a blade (the deck that is). If it pops up use some CA on an off cut of photo etch and slide it in the gap then press down. The really liquid stuff works best.

Greg

 

It's good to know the wooden deck can be removed if necessary. It's hard as heck to get it lined up perfectly.

Where the deck lifts and using super glue to secure it to the deck...it seems like you don't notice it lifting until a day or so after it's initially put in place. At least that's what I have noticed this first time using the wooden deck. There are a couple of places where it wants to lift. Will use the technique you described. Thanks!

Posted

I sanded off all of the raised plastic detail on my warspite deck before fitting the pontos deck, perhaps this helped its fixing as it was a flat yet slightly abrasive due to sanding.

 

OC

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted
Posted

I recently subscribed to Flory Models modeling website. Man, that gentleman does good work. I wish I had subscribed to his site before I started a couple of my recent models, including this Scharnhorst. Some of the tips and tricks I have learned from his tutorials could have really helped me along the way.

It's been such a long time since I was really "into" the hobby, I lost touch with many new techniques and products. Particularly the sequence of construction and painting. Oh well, I am just happy I am still learning something. 

Posted

Never to late to learn something new. It seems that almost everyday I learn a new tip or trick to help me out. Some I use, some I don't but always learning.

 

You are going to have a couple of nice ships sitting side by side. Getting a new model always gets me motivated to build!

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

Posted

How do you think a finished HMS Duke of York will look sitting next to a finished Scharnhorst as a display? 

 

kxEjsHb.jpg

Ummmm - Superb :dancetl6:

 

OC

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...