Honda RC166 Grand Prix Racer by CDW - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/12

[realworkingsailor]

The other method I just thought you may wish to try, if the “chain” is able to be well supported in the frame, use a straight edge and repeatedly score with your hobby knife (alongside the length of the chain) across the tabs holding the links to the fret. A few passes with light pressure should eventually pop the links free.

 

Andy

[shipman]

Try these ...

ebay

6PCS Professional Coated Precision Tweezers Set Kit Stainless Steel Non-Magnetic

[Egilman]

 

You want the flat tipped ones, the pointy ones will not take the strain of trying to close the clips...

 

That's why the jewelry set is the exact set for this type of work, the flats are for closing those miniature chain links in fine jewelry...

 

There is another way of doing this, canopy glue... dries clear and reduces so it leaves no lumps, (ultra thin) and is designed for holding PE.....

 

The chain isn't going to take a strain at all, and makes connecting it on the bike easy peasy...

Edited April 30, 2023 by Egilman

[shipman]

Just had a thought.....

 

If I were to tackle that chain assembly, I'd have a go at making a tool to press the links together.

 

I'd find a brass pin from a household electrical plug, file one end to an appropriate shape and micro drill two holes spaced for the chain pins.

 

As long as the holes are slightly bigger than the pins, it doesn't have to be 'rocket science' accurate.

And there you have your own press to push the links together without bending them.

 

The tweezers I highlighted are hardened, needle sharp and strong.

[CDW]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Dug deep and found a pair in my stash that got the job done. Not interested in trying this again anytime soon.

[yvesvidal]

Now, you need to place that chain into warm grease and lubricate it. I still remember the screams of my mother, when my brother and I were using her pans to grease the chains of our mopeds, on the kitchen stove. 🙂

 

Yves

[CDW]

28 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

Now, you need to place that chain into warm grease and lubricate it. I still remember the screams of my mother, when my brother and I were using her pans to grease the chains of our mopeds, on the kitchen stove. 🙂

 

Yves

All the things we put our parents through when we were kids come back to us with our own kids. I came home one day to find live fish in my swimming pool. My son thought it would be great to be able to go fishing in our back yard. 🤣

[DocRob]

A bit late to take a bit off your chain burden, but yesterday I found this set of 3Dprinted chains for the Honda, made by Falcon Scale Models. Never heard about that company before, but will consider this, if I fail with my PE chain.

 

Falcon Scale Models FSM22: Chain set 1/12 scale - Honda RC166 GP Racer 250cc - for Tamiya references TAM14113 and TAM14127 (ref. FSM22) | SpotModel

 

Cheers Rob

[CDW]

21 minutes ago, DocRob said:

A bit late to take a bit off your chain burden, but yesterday I found this set of 3Dprinted chains for the Honda, made by Falcon Scale Models. Never heard about that company before, but will consider this, if I fail with my PE chain.

 

Falcon Scale Models FSM22: Chain set 1/12 scale - Honda RC166 GP Racer 250cc - for Tamiya references TAM14113 and TAM14127 (ref. FSM22) | SpotModel

 

Cheers Rob

That's a much more viable option for extra detail. Price is right, too.

[CDW]

1 hour ago, DocRob said:

Never heard about that company before, but will consider this, if I fail with my PE chain.

Cheers Rob

Rob

The primary weakness with the Tamiya photo etch chain are the problems associated with cutting the links from the photo etch fret after the chain is assembled. Even careful cutting loosens the holding power of the "clips" that attach to the pins. Tamiya recommends gluing each pin/clip contact point with a thread locker glue (CA is what I used). But then you are left with rough spots that need filing down and smoothed out where the links have been cut from the frets. I am not going to attempt smoothing them out. I am certain it will cause the chain to fall apart in various places due to the stress from filing. Too fragile. 

In retrospect, that resin printed chain looks like a charm. If I had it all to do over again I would buy the resin printed parts but since you already have the photo etch set, give it a try. You may be more successful than I and figure out a better way of handling the issues I described.

[CDW]

I am now at the stage where the ends of the chain are joined with a "master link". I kid you not, I have spent a couple of hours fiddling with that link this morning. So glad it's done now.

[DocRob]

I will try the PE variant with my build first. Maybe it's an option to bend the PE-fret sharply with a bending tool along the contact points and flatten it again. This could weak the PE material a bit.

Cheers Rob 

[Ras Ambrioso]

CDW, all I can say is: same here. Had the same problem with my Bianchi bike. Fortunately the acetone worked and I managed to get the spoke wheel finished. Hang in there; there is a finish to all this effort.

[CDW]

The drive chain saga continues: after all the bragging I did about how well Tamiya engineered the chain building jig, come to find out the chain is too short. 🤥

All is not lost, there are more links, rollers, and pins included. I can measure the distance between the axle location on the swingarm and the hub, multiply that times 2 and I should be long enough by adding those links to the chain. I'm debating whether to throw in the towel on the chain and just use the kit chain and sprockets which are molded as a single unit (the correct length). I've about had enough Tom-foolery with this chain.

[CDW]

On second thought, there were two rear sprockets included, one large and one smaller one. The instructions called for use of the large one. Maybe the smaller of the two would fit without lengthening the chain? I grow weary of this.

[shipman]

May I suggest you trial fit the rear suspension units.

The combined geometry between sprockets and swing arm pivot varies in operation.

Looking at your photo, the wheel appears to be at its upper limit of travel.

With suspension attached, the wheel should be relatively lower and due to the geometry should remove some of the slack.

[CDW]

@shipman: I did check fit through limits of travel of the swingarm, but it's a matter of the chain being too short. I also laid the chain about the circumference of the molded chain piece and found it too short there as well. One way or the other, I will have a chain on the bike by tomorrow. 😄

I'm working to add a few links as I type this. From here on out, it shall be 3D printed chains for me. No more of these.

[shipman]

Your frustration is very understandable, you have my respect.

With a bit of luck the extra links will do the trick and you can stop swearing at it!

[Ras Ambrioso]

CDW, I feel you pain

[CDW]

The more I fiddled with adding links to the chain, existing links began to fall apart one by one. Became so hassle-iferous, I resorted to the molded chain and sprockets. Moving on.

 

Edited May 4, 2023 by CDW

[yvesvidal]

Wise decision. The links would have broken later on, when you touched the bike on the display.

 

Yves

[Ras Ambrioso]

Well done. I am facing the same problem with my Bianchi. Mine is elastic but I had to break it to put in place.  Now I am going to face splicing it back in the drive. Your bike is looking great.   

[CDW]

Test fitting the six exhaust pipes. Nice. Has the look of a much larger displacement bike.

[Egilman]

4 hours ago, CDW said:

The more I fiddled with adding links to the chain, existing links began to fall apart one by one. Became so hassle-iferous, I resorted to the molded chain and sprockets. Moving on.

Yep it seemed to be a bit on the too fiddly side watching you try to get it right... WAY too much work... I think I would have ditched the idea of closing the clips and used Gators Grip to glue them on....

 

Probably stood a better chance of staying together that way....

 

Lesson learned I suppose, but one of many in our modeling careers though, the upper limit on photoetch....

[CDW]

For ultimate realism at this scale, that 3D printed chain DocRob showed us is the best bang for the buck. IMO

The photo etch, pins and rollers too small. Watchmaker material

[CDW]

I'm thinking about buying this 1:12 rider for Honda. Let me know what you think. Looks fast just standing still. 😁

 

Legend 150mm 1/12 "Need for Speed" Girl in Red Leather Suit on Motorcycle LF1505 | eBay

[Jack12477]

That's some eye candy !  I see an airborne rolling pin heading for your skull if the Admiral sees it. 😉😉😉😉😊😊😊😊😇😇😇😇

[CDW]

20 minutes ago, Jack12477 said:

That's some eye candy !  I see an airborne rolling pin heading for your skull if the Admiral sees it. 😉😉😉😉😊😊😊😊😇😇😇😇

There would be nowhere to hide.

[CDW]

Seriously, I was looking for a legit rider and mechanic figure in 1:12 scale. Leave it to EBay search to come up with something like that above. It could end my modeling career, errr life. 😄

[Canute]

That's for sure.