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Posted

The gun mounts look good. No headaches working on them is a good thing. I ran into that some years back, building double hung windows for some houses in N scale (1/160). The magnifying visor works a charm.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Posted

I have one of those opti-visors.........have never used it.   

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted

I think that's one of the hardest things you'll have to do Cog, whilst I could see it, alignment at that size is a nightmare. Then you have to tap every assembly to make sure it's stuck down properly.

Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

22 more chances to get it right Greg. When I look at it without macro, it seems alright. When you get in close (macro/magnifier) suddenly it doesn't look that well anymore. The main problems are the delicacy of the material and the size (glad I'm not at 1/700) The first requires careful manipulation (bending it the wrong way initially makes you end up with a broken part - been there, done that), the latter making it hard to handle. I have to bend a 7mm long 3mm wide piece lengthwise ... doesn't leave much room for pliers/tweezers ... a whole new experience I might add

 

How on earth can you tap any assembly at that size ...?

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Just gently tap on the bit you have glued down with the tweezer head, if it falls off then it will fall off late and you'll lose the piece. I find about 10% of all assemblies do this as the glue has not been put on correctly. Better to fix it then than when it's on the model.

Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hello Buck,

 

Welcome aboard! You could send that firy overseer to have her get some experience with the bling, bling. Good on her resume ;)

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Not much done last week. Have done the base of the 25mm AA guns. Hope to finish the gun parts this weekend ...

post-33-0-55190800-1484957528_thumb.jpg

 

repetitive work ... hardly!

post-33-0-57397600-1484957540_thumb.jpg

 

got some more tweezers and pliers

post-33-0-26190300-1484957572_thumb.jpg

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted (edited)

Ever so right Sam. For the gun one piece alone has 12 bends folds to it :wacko: two others  four, and one more three two ... hope to get them done without loosing any. Even a carpet monster won't be able to find them ... Besides that, if I overbend and correct it breaks ... no extra's so I'll be in dire straights so to speak ... No beverages but coffee with these parts!!!!!

 

Cheers

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted (edited)

Greg,

 

I thought you would have some fabulous solution ... bummer ... I found one in my keyboard though!

 

Got another bummer: Yesterday evening (no bottle isn't empty), I bent a piece a bit to far, and had to correct it ... now it's two parts instead of one ... Will have to try CA but doubt if I can manage it, ordered some spare parts to. At this size they should, at least for the small items, add some spares ... No pictures yet, still not ready. It feels like one of Hercules' challenges!

 

Cheers

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Thanks for the tip, Greg. In this case I'm hard pressed to cut even that to size ... I will have a go at it though

 

Cheers

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

:) ... now I need to find a supplier, preferably Dutch. Thanks, Greg, yet again. You are my brass guru!

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Greg, Carl would 'powder' and thin CA along the joint for reinforcing also work?  I know Rocket make this stuff but I have heard that using talc would also work?  The card modellers use this technique a lot I believe?

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted (edited)

Greg,

 

Not included 

 

Right, it's the material of the kit's plastic parts itself ... should have known it was that easy!!! Found the description of it on a British site, and how to use it (http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=146894&page=1)

 

Let's blame it on the language barrier ... (or that I'm simply stupid)

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted (edited)

Hi Carl,

 

There are a few discussions about the use of Talc and baking soda/powder with thin, and with "old' CA as a filler and/or strengthener, but also as a backing in crevices to support small pieces etc.  See http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/13/t/90424.aspx  or http://www.tested.com/art/makers/573280-shop-tips-mixing-superglue-and-baby-powder/  or  http://www.whatifmodellers.com/index.php?topic=33125.0   

 

Note in the latter discussion it states that once sprinkling the powder over the CA, let it set but to sand it sooner rather than later as it sets very very hard.

 

This is an example of the commercial product (no associations nor have I used it yet - just aware of it).  i do not know if it works better or not than baking soda  https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/rc-modelling/30-roket-powder-5060243900159.html

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted (edited)

Greg,

 

The stretch sprue worked, still, hard enough on this scale, but doable. Today I added the barrels, and the amo thing. Tomorrow the last bit: Straps or harnesses ... a mere 22 to go. After that the twin 13 mm guns ... I keep on saying: Brass is fun, brass is fun, brass is fun, brass is fun ... ;) Why on earth did those Japanese engineers have to install so many small guns ...

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Probably something to do with our American friends trying to sink them. I can't imagine the courage of those young men who flew into its teeth. Glad it worked for you. May I suggest you tackle something else to rest your temper? I'm still trying to get consistent paint flow for my panel lines.

Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

Why on earth did those Japanese engineers have to install so many small guns ...

 

Could it be related to the marksmanship of the ship's gunners ?  You know if you put enough lead into the air you are bound to hit something sometime. :D :D That's how the US Navy's new Phalanx system works against incoming missiles.

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