Royal William by ken3335 - FINISHED - Euromodel - Scale 1:72

[ken3335]

Hello  Everyone,

 

Again thanks for your likes and kind comments.

 

Yes Zappto I spend quite a bit of time building my Royal William, followers think that I'm making very rapid progress but I spend at least four hours, sometimes much more each day on it so actual building time has been quite long. It's become a bit like a drug habit, I have to keep at it to get my fix, often I do a part over again many times until I get it how I want, sometimes I hate it and want to weep with frustration, it's been some journey so far but I can't remember a project that I have enjoyed as much, this really is some build and will be a difficult act to follow.

 

I feel that I've made progress since my last update but it's been hard going, I've finished the main ratlines, fitted the catharpins, I had great difficulty and frustration around this area so I've now just made them up simply, more of a token than of anything realistic. The futtock shrouds and ratlines are in place and most of the stays are fitted. The shrouds deadeyes and most of the lanyards for the upper masts have also been done. When all of this was done I thought that the railings that I'd made up and fitted into the tops looked too out of scale, too big, so I've removed them for now.

 

It all sounds easy now that I've written it down but it was far from it, at least half of the deadeye lanyards were done twice to get the height and tension right. I can't believe how many times that you can make different mistakes on the same length of rigging, the mainstay I had to redo twice and the front section that attaches it to the bowsprit I did four times. I must have made every error in the modellers handbook and one that I think must be a first ever, so strange that you couldn't make it up, I'll explain.

 

I had fitted the futtock staves then went on to do the catharpins, I only wanted to put in a simple version so I fitted two pairs into each mast. When I looked at them the next day I saw that the thread that I'd used was too thick and looked out of scale so I decided to change it for a thinner one. I'd seized  the knots with a touch of Cyno and they were difficult to undo, I didn't want to go near that area with a scalpel, ( another lesson I'd learned ) so I put a drop of de bonder on the knots and left it soak, the Cyno started to soften but not enough, I put more de bonder on and left it for about an hour. When I returned to my consternation I saw that the de bonder had wicked down the shrouds, it had taken on the black dye which then leached into the white ratlines turning them black. I was obliged to take away and remake the upper staves and four or five rungs of the ratlines, this repair took me about five hours of extra work. I have to ask myself yet again just what I have done to offend the Modelling Gods!

 

 

Ken

 

 

 

Here's one for you Pete.

Edited October 24, 2017 by ken3335

[zappto]

Beautifull ship to look at! This is sad then work need to redo, it happens for me a lot of times, i am happy rigging is way a head for my build. What De bonder do you use? Does it work on Tidebond wood glue?

[Sjors]

Even with the re-do’s, it looks great!

 

Sjors

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

I'm working away at the upper ratlines at the moment so it will be a short while until I've got anything of interest to show.

 

I'm taking  a coffee break at the moment to rest my shoulders, so in the meantime I'll show you some more pictures of my home town. In the last set I showed you Hilbre Island about half a mile away in the estuary, here are some closer pictures. At the tip of the island you will see an old disused lifeboat station, this hasn't been used for about a hundred years, in its day it was fully manned as it was a busy shipping area, the lifeboat was man powered, oars, very brave men. I've included a picture of the old lifeboat.

 

As I've already said, it's hard but someone has to live here.

 

Ken

 

 

 

Edited October 26, 2017 by ken3335

[Hubac's Historian]

Ken, you are a man of many talents.  That second image could be a contest winner!  Love the photography!

 

Oh, and the ship is pretty great too.

[Jack12477]

3 hours ago, Hubac'sHistorian said:

Ken, you are a man of many talents.  That second image could be a contest winner!  Love the photography!

Actually ALL of the photos are contest winners.  Very nice work, Ken.  You are lucky to live in an area with such photogenic scenes.   Your ship model is coming along well also.

Edited October 26, 2017 by Jack12477

[Dilbert55]

Now all that remains to do is get your wonderful creation (once completed) into this beautiful scenery!!!

[KingDavid]

This is an amazing build..i am lost for words..

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone.

 

Thanks very much for your likes and kind comments about my photos, I think that you've guessed by now that photography is another of my hobbies. I do make quite an effort to get good pictures so I appreciate you liking them, that's all an amateur photographer wants.

 

Zappto, I use a cheap unbranded cyno de bonder, when applied it just softens the hardened glue enough to work parts free, you then need to wipe the goo away after, for that I use acetone. I bought it initially to get the stuff off my fingers, it works great for that but I don't think that it would work on white wood glue though. If your wood glue isn't waterproof try soaking the part, if you can't immerse it wrap it in a piece of wet cloth I find that this usually works.

 

I have now finished all the ratlines, all the forward stays and all standing rigging of the bowsprit. I had no idea how the fore preventer stay was attached to the knighthead. The plan showed it as the fixing point but does not show how, this is .75mm thick black cord, I couldn't imagine this just being tied off, as hard as I looked for images of this I couldn't find any, not even searching online. I did see that on the Victory it was fastened using double pulley blocks so that was how I decided to fit mine, they look ok and functional. No doubt someone will tell me they are wrong but they are done and are staying that way, if they were good enough for Nelson then they're good enough for me.

 

I decided to refine the supplied blocks a bit so I made up my version of a block sander. Using a small round container I lined it with 150 grit sandpaper then using a length of dowel I glued sandpaper flaps into slots that I'd cut then glued a nail as a shaft through its centre. A hole was drilled into the base and lid to take the shaft.

In use I put in some blocks fastened the shaft to my drill and spun it for about 20 seconds. When done I saw that all the small surface roughness had been removed and the edges were slightly less square, I think that if I spin them a little longer the edges would get rounder. This only took about five minutes to make and it worked so I think it was worth the effort.

 

I tried to photograph the rigging but because of the current bad weather it is so dark indoors I've only managed to get one acceptable picture of the rigging so the rest will have to wait until another post.

 

Of the standing rigging I have the back stays to do, I'll need to do the snaking on the main and fore stays and the crowsfeet then I'll be able to move on to the spars.

 

Ken

 

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Really beautiful work Ken.  Can I ask what, if any, stains, varnishes, oils, etc. you used for what I think are the walnut pieces?  Whatever you are doing looks absolutely fantastic.  

[ken3335]

Hi Mike, 

 

Thanks for liking my finish, I've mentioned my finish method before so it's easiest for me to repeat that post. I've used the light oak wood dye on everything, hull, decks and masts.

 

With regards the prep for my wood, it's been a lot of trial and error but what I've settled for is first make sure that there is no glue in the grain, I make sure that I wipe away any excess after use, I give it a good sand mostly with a solid block with 120 grit attached. I then always rub in a thin penetrating wood dye, a light oak, this doesn't change the colour of the wood much but it makes it look richer and really brings out the grain, for contrast on rubbing strips etc. I'll use dark oak. I then always apply sanding sealer, this dries quickly and after a few minutes I give a light rub with 180 grit just held in my fingers. To finish I use a poly satin varnish. On the decks I use acrylic matt varnish, this dries quicker and is easily re touched when I end up marking the deck.

 

I'm not an expert on finishes but I think this looks good for displaying, for a more realistic finish perhaps matt may be better, I hope that this helps

 

ken

[Hubac's Historian]

I also think your finish work looks really good, but what I particularly like is the satin finish at the tops and mast heads, painted black.  The finish really pops over the black and the quality of your finish prep becomes even more apparent.  As I've said a number of times, Ken, your willingness to work and re-work various aspects of the build have resulted in a truly first-rate build.

 

Ingenious block tumbler, by the way.

Edited October 28, 2017 by Hubac'sHistorian

[md1400cs]

Ken,

 

As Hubac' just posted "all on the money". Your build and log are a pleasure to follow.

This ship, that I have so wanted to build, is still too intimidating for me . 

Excellent work indeed.

 

[Bill Morrison]

Ken,

Incredible job on the Royal William! and, your home town is in an incredibly beautiful setting!

 

Bill Morrison

[Landlubber Mike]

Ken thanks so much for the explanation.  I really love how the wood pops.  I have two Euromodel kits on my shelf and seeing what you’ve done makes me excited to build them.

 

Can I ask the brand name of the dyes you are using?

[ken3335]

Hi Mike,

 

These are the products that I use, I've tried others but found these to be the best. The dye is the type that soaks into the wood so gives some depth, it must be used first as after the sealer has been applied it doesn't stain. The varnish is pretty tough, self levelling and has the right amount of sheen for my taste.

 

Ken

[piratepete007]

12 hours ago, md1400cs said:

Ken,

 

As Hubac' just posted "all on the money". Your build and log are a pleasure to follow.

This ship, that I have so wanted to build, is still too intimidating for me . 

Excellent work indeed.

 

Bill,

The build is not as intimidating as it would seem. Different techniques and different methods employed by such esteemed Royal William builders as Mark, Ken and Vince, to name just three, serve to illustrate the unique nature of Euromodel kits. These 'kits' are not just the normal run of the mill kits that are readily available. They allow and in fact coerce individuals to be their own creative masters and the choice is there to be as basic or advanced as you like. Be aware that all of their styles and methods have been collated together - and continue to be so - into a set of evolving files available to anybody. In this way, the intimidation you refer to is greatly reduced.

Pete

Edited October 29, 2017 by piratepete007
Incorrect member's name

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks Ken, really appreciate you sharing.  Have a great Sunday!

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

Again thanks for your likes. 

 

Two things happened today, I finished the backstays and it stopped raining, so plenty of photos.

 

The first picture shows the attachment on the hull of the bowsprit stay, the picture inset shows how I made it, the black strip is just black card cut up, easy to do and you can't tell that its not metal.

 

The rest went pretty well to plan, the only difficulty for me were the 3mm dead eyes for the upper stays, they were too small for me to hold. I got my wife to assist with these, between us we managed. I wonder what she'd be like with making spars!

 

Michael,  Pete's right, this kit is only as difficult as you want it to be, the difficulty would be in the fine accurate detail which it gives you the opportunity to do, I've seen your work and it's here that you would excel, I'd love to see you do a version. I'm making mine as simple a version as I can so that at least I'll be able to complete it. It's the style of ship and the quality of the kit that makes it look so good, I'll only take a small part of the credit.

 

Ken

 

 

[Ponto]

Nicely done!!!

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

Big day today, I think that I've completed the standing rigging, a major milestone, have a beer Ken!

 

I started with the snaking but quite soon realised that it wasn't going to be easy to keep an even distance between the stays. First I tried just looping the thread around, that didn't work, I then tried stitching through the stay using a needle, that didn't work, I then tried tying the thread on, no joy the stays still came together. I tried stiffening the middle sections of thread with cyno, that made things worse and with all the work the stays were starting to look frayed. As a last resort I cut the stays off and made new ones but this time made sure they were as taut as was acceptable. It was worth the extra effort, tensioning the upper stays had obviously slackened the lower ones, with the extra tension and a little care all went well.

 

After my experience on the forestay I first re-tensioned the mainstay. Because of it's extra length I again couldn't keep the stays apart so I decided to fit some boat lifts, when fastened down and tensioned these pulled down the mainstay, I knew that when I fitted the crows feet that they would pull the top stay up a little thus giving the separation needed.

 

I fitted the uphroe and blocks then made up the crows feet. This took some time and thought but proved to be easier than I'd expected and for once I didn't need to redo something.

 

Next up was the crowsfeet from the sprit to the preventer stay. I made this up on the plan then fitted it, all I can say is it got done and I'm very pleased with the result. It was like trying to do a Rubicks Cube for the first time, get one part right and all the other sections move out of alignment, over and over again.

 

I picked up two resin hulls, a cutter and a launch at the correct scale that I intend to fit out and mount instead of the one large one provided with the kit. I think that it will give a more balanced look again make a different version of the RW.

 

Ken

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

Just a small update, a lot of hours spent shaping and making up the spars but I'm afraid not many photos or techniques to show for it. You'll just have to do with another picture from my home town. This is of the path around the marine lake, I used a wide angle lens and shot in black & white for a dramatic effect, this one won a photo comp that I entered.

 

Ken

 

 

[ken3335]

Hi,  Could anyone tell me if there is a best sequence for mounting the yards, having regard to access and routing of the ropes.

 

Ken

[zappto]

Hello, when mounting my Lexington yards, i started from the biggest one, later used small piece of tape to stick it to the main mast and made first rigging  to keep yard still.

[marktiedens]

Hi Ken - I usually work from the top down.Otherwise I keep knocking the longer,lower yards loose. Everyone seems to have their own order of doing things,though. There doesn`t seem to be a "best"way - whatever you are most comfortable with. Ask ten different people & you will get ten different answers.

 

Mark

[ken3335]

Hello Everyone,

 

Once again thanks for your likes and thanks to Mark and Zappto for putting in a reply. I think I'll start from the top, the yardarms are only 2mm diameter and I've already broken off one so the least time that they're on whilst working the better.

 

I've now completed the main and fore lower yards with all their associated blocks and footropes.

 

After some thought I came up with my own simple method of making the irons that support the yardarms. I bent a piece of brass wire for the arm and used heat shrink tube for the hoops. I cut a small piece of tubing and heat shrinked it into place on the arm, it was quite thin so I put another one over the first, this gave a good thickness. I drilled a hole through it and passed the wire through, I drilled a hole in the end of the yard then slid the wire into it, I could move the wire in or out to get the correct size rod and I could move the yardarm up or down and rotate it until It was in the right position, a drop of cyno then fixed it in place. Lastly I trimmed the protruding wire and put a drop of matt paint over the end. Unless you knew how it had been made you would even after close examination think that it was a neatly made metal piece.

 

For the foot rope supports I used pieces of brass wire, I flattened one end, drilled a hole through, filled it round then blackened them. They were easily made and fitted. I think that they look uniform and neat and you need to be fairly close to know that they aren't rope, that'll do for me.

 

Ken

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 6, 2017 by ken3335

[marktiedens]

Hi Ken - looks good.I had considered using wire for the footropes,but I would probably have them all bent up by the time I got the yards mounted.

 

Mark

[ken3335]

Hi Mark, For me it was the other way round, I considered first using cord for the footropes, I saw how you did yours and the amount of fiddly work that was involved, it looked really good though but I thought better of it. I'm afraid it's usually the easiest options for me each time.

 

Ken

[Dilbert55]

Great solution using the heat shrink! May I ask what your working background is/was that contributes to creative and practical solutions like this? 

[kier]

Hi Ken -

           I have been following in the background of your build.....Nice work.

 

 I have one question that has always bugged me in the past but have never asked the question as to why and how? -

I noticed when you were decking etc, that you spoke of applying a sealer, then a poly over the top. As I term my self as a always learning I ask should this always be applied and weather it can be used just the same on top of a wood-stain, as I have one of my past models (Bounty) where I applied nothing.

 Sorry but this has been on my mind for some time as a member of MSW, following other builders with there great info, we all gain more knowledge that grows and grows. Thanks to you all.

 

           Keep up the work Ken - she looks great.

 

                          kier