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HMS HOOD by Salty Dog - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC - w/Pontos PE


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Superb work.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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3 hours ago, cog said:

I've got the "rolling" tool, and it makes a world of difference. Not cheap, but worth the cost.

 

Tamiya has two solutions to dilute you should use the lacquer thinner even for their acrylic, as Tamiya's acrylic paints aren't real acrylics. I do have to add that alcohol evaporates quicker so it's up to you. I like to try different paints and thinners and mix up brands.

 

Love the JPS look, although, I do miss that high gloss of the black. The silk sheen does have a nice touch to it too

 

If you are looking for a more stable, and versatile drill press for dremel like tools, this one could be of interest to you

Website: http://vanda-layindustries.com/

 

Cheers

Wow, those are some awesome gadgets! I'm going to have to get at least one.  Thanks for the heads-up.

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1 hour ago, Salty Dog said:

This is really beautiful!  I have thought about what other colors I would use instead of black for the unpainted brass look, and dark blue and dark red are my next ideas.  I love how that looks and you did a fantastic job!

Thank you Salty. With ten thousand curse words I did complete it and man what a tedious rascal it was! Here's the ebay kink for the model. We have a family member on board serving so it was a special family heirloom build.

 

362622787462?hash=item546e009f86:g:uEAAAs-l1600.thumb.jpg.670f2cde69c19dd690f96b2426e902f9.jpg

Current build project: 

CSS Alabama 1/96

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20148-css-alabama-by-jonathan11-revell-196-scale-kit-bash-90-historical-accuracy/

Finished build projects 2018:

H.L Hunley 1/24

CSS Arkansas 1/96

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Orange Hobby do some Fantastic stuff  - l looked trough there online stuff  amazing detail.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Hello all,

I just put one of the most difficult, most fidgety things you will ever do with PE.  I had to take a break because I thought I would explode because I have to make another one! The PE is so incredibly fragile that just breathing on it just about bends it! (exaggerating). There is hardly any surface contact at all. Now, back to the next one :blink:IMG_0109.thumb.JPG.f0a2e071cad11ce29a20701e70faa4ab.JPG

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6 hours ago, CDW said:

Are those F-35's on the carrier deck, and which model is this? Looks super!

Yes they are, the proper designation if I remember right they are F-35 B's. 

Current build project: 

CSS Alabama 1/96

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20148-css-alabama-by-jonathan11-revell-196-scale-kit-bash-90-historical-accuracy/

Finished build projects 2018:

H.L Hunley 1/24

CSS Arkansas 1/96

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41 minutes ago, Salty Dog said:

Hello all,

I just put one of the most difficult, most fidgety things you will ever do with PE.  I had to take a break because I thought I would explode because I have to make another one! The PE is so incredibly fragile that just breathing on it just about bends it! (exaggerating). There is hardly any surface contact at all. Now, back to the next one :blink:IMG_0109.thumb.JPG.f0a2e071cad11ce29a20701e70faa4ab.JPG

Wow! 1mm across is incredible. Nice work.

Current build project: 

CSS Alabama 1/96

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20148-css-alabama-by-jonathan11-revell-196-scale-kit-bash-90-historical-accuracy/

Finished build projects 2018:

H.L Hunley 1/24

CSS Arkansas 1/96

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awesome job on the stack tops...........I found full well what happens to over bent PE  ;)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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3 hours ago, Salty Dog said:

I just put one of the most difficult, most fidgety things you will ever do with PE.  I had to take a break because I thought I would explode because I have to make another one! The PE is so incredibly fragile that just breathing on it just about bends it! (exaggerating). There is hardly any surface contact at all. Now, back to the next one :blink:

keep a piece of paper between your lips

 

And now at 1/350

 

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Buenas noches,

And adventurous night. There are some serious issues with the funnels on this model.  The two funnels in the kit are of different sizes. I don't know if the actual ship is the same, or this is a Trumpter F up. Pontos seems to have taken that into consideration, because the brass PE jackets are of different sizes, to correspond to each funnel.  The top of the funnels are also of different sizes.  Unfortunately, Pontos did not get all the parts right.  Here's an example:IMG_0110.thumb.JPG.e89d7f8679b516fb7a37c951ebf93769.JPG

You can see that the middle "spar" doesn't reach the other side of the oval.  Not only that, they also screwed up on the walkway that goes inside the actual funnel.  Here is the problem:IMG_0114.thumb.JPG.6dee0c28d6c16ca2385e26ac5a43fb20.JPG

You can clearly see that each oval is of a different size to make up for the different size funnels, but the walkway only fits the smaller one.  Both walkways are the exact size:

IMG_0115.thumb.JPG.93d5e5a4ea7ccc0269c5f396453cc918.JPG

I did hear back from Pontos concerning the missing paravane parts.  A gent named Kim says he's going to send the parts to me.  I also requested ANY and all upgrades that they may have done since releasing the kit, so we'll see if they did anything about these error. I'm trying not to let it p me off.

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I think a virtual sailor can clear the gap by a small jump ;)  Very annoying, I agree. Those detailup sets, and the brass from the kit make these models expensive enough to have them made to fit properly. Easpecially when these are quite hard te scratch buildm them oneself

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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1 hour ago, cog said:

I think a virtual sailor can clear the gap by a small jump ;)  Very annoying, I agree. Those detailup sets, and the brass from the kit make these models expensive enough to have them made to fit properly. Easpecially when these are quite hard te scratch buildm them oneself

Yep, for the money you expect much better documentation and accuracy. That's why I said I'm trying to stay calm haha. Hopefully they will send any corrections.

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4 hours ago, Salty Dog said:

Yep, for the money you expect much better documentation and accuracy. That's why I said I'm trying to stay calm haha. Hopefully they will send any corrections.

I know these manufacturers must test-assemble their production runs before putting them out there for sale. It only seems reasonable they would put at least that much effort into their products. So how do these errors get past them, I wonder? Something as small and delicate as these parts would be very difficult to scratch build a solution (at least for me).

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You can scratch build it if you have a ladder and two railings leftovers from a previous build or from this one. The point is, the scratch build one doesn't look like the other one ...

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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check to see if the oval fits where it's supposed to go........that might give you something to work with.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Please excuse this if it has been previously addressed, what adhesive and method of application are you using. Your work is truly outstanding

and sets a high level for us mere mortals to strive to emulate.

 

Thanks, Harley

Cheers, Harley<p 

Under Construction:    USS Yorktown CV-5 1/200 by Trumpeter                                

Completed:              USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 1/200 by ILoveKit

                                USS Atlanta CL-51 1/350 by Very Fire 

                                Liberty Ship John W. Brown 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                HMS Spiraea K-08 1/350 

                                 USS Arizona BB-39 1/200 by Trumpeter/Mk1 Design

                                 HMS Sir Gareth 1/350 by Starling Models

                                 USS Missouri BB-63 1945 1/350 by Joy-Yard, 9/11/21

                                 USS Indianapolis CA-35 1945 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                 USS Kidd DD-661, 1945, 1/350, on The Sullivans kit by Trumpeter

                                 USS Alaska CB-1, 1/350, Hobby Boss, Circa 2/1945

                                 US Brig Syren 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood 

Started, On Hold:  Frigate Confederacy 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

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Hi guys,

First thing I did was make sure the parts fit each funnel, which is why I'm surprised they didn't realize they had to also change the other parts of the assembly.  I fell asleep thinking about scratch building and I have an idea.

Harley, I've always used Pacer Zap a Gap products. For some reason, it just doesn't seem to work as well for me anymore. Worst of all, is it loses its strength with time.  If you glue your fingertips with a tiny drop from a fresh bottle, it's pretty hard to pull them apart. But from a year old bottle, no problem at all. I recently got some Gorilla Gel CA and it's almost all I'm using.  Stuff is dangerous! Problem is, you have no time to fit the part. It bonds immediately on contact, so you have to have a steady hand. Removing something after it's bonded will usually destroy the part. The biggest drawback by far is the "frosting", especially since I'm gluing on black. The "frost" shows up like a sore thumb!  I hate it. I'm going to have to figure out how to get rid of it.

Thank you again for all the encouragement.

Ed

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Ed

Have you tried acrylic glue (Gator Grip) for photo etch yet? It has it's upside as well as downside.

Upside: you have ample time to position the parts; you can clean up all/any excess glue easily using a damp paint brush; it's more flexible, so parts don't tend to fly off if you bump them after it's dry; it dries crystal clear leaving no fog or frosting of surrounding parts.

Downside: it does not instantly bond. parts my need to be held in position for a few moments until it kicks enough to hold the part all on it's own.

 

I think there are instances where one glue or the other is the most practical for the task at hand. One does not take the place of the other, but it gives us more options.

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1 hour ago, CDW said:

Ed

Have you tried acrylic glue (Gator Grip) for photo etch yet? It has it's upside as well as downside.

Upside: you have ample time to position the parts; you can clean up all/any excess glue easily using a damp paint brush; it's more flexible, so parts don't tend to fly off if you bump them after it's dry; it dries crystal clear leaving no fog or frosting of surrounding parts.

Downside: it does not instantly bond. parts my need to be held in position for a few moments until it kicks enough to hold the part all on it's own.

 

I think there are instances where one glue or the other is the most practical for the task at hand. One does not take the place of the other, but it gives us more options.

I'll have to check it out. Always willing to try new stuff! I really like fast bonding glue. I lose patience waiting for stuff to dry when it's just a tiny little part holding up the job. But sometimes even though you get immediate bonding, the bonding is fragile. Very brittle. So getting something flexible but strong sound awful good.  Thanks!

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Hey,

So I messed around with reworking the parts from Pontos that were wrong, and I'm happy with the results. I found some PE that was about the same width of the part that needed reworking.  I just added some metal to extend it on one and after cutting off the funny shape that actually meets the oval parts:IMG_0116.thumb.JPG.066fafd1a8b857b3f5b846308e740158.JPG

And then I worked on the short walkway. If you look carefully, the ends of these things bend to form an "L". With both ends unfolded, the walkway was long enough!  NO ONE will notice:

IMG_0124.thumb.JPG.3496c7cd01adab2dc53f4e30508d07b3.JPG

I then wrapped the funnel in its PE sheet and decided to try something I had never done before.  I airbrushed some Alclad on it to make it look HOT. I asked my wife what the funnel looked like to her, and she said: "Looks like it got burnt." Exactly what I wanted to achieve.  I hope you guys approve.  I love it.IMG_0120.thumb.JPG.0744ea8abb8f584c8022dc7b3a55694b.JPGIMG_0121.thumb.JPG.8a7a6ed3f1397bc2b766d3539f0d3f12.JPG

Now I have to do the second one!

Edited by Salty Dog
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Looks like I may be a little late on this one Ed. But I'm a busy body and I will throw in my .2 cents in anyway.

 

From the looks of the assembly and parts involved I wonder if the designers made an assumption that the cross platform was able to swivel inside the funnels. While they are different sizes in profile they are almost exactly the same width. (I could go downstairs and check my older set of 12 pages of plans for the Hood by P.C. Coker, but I am still a little iffy on stairs and the ones to the basement are kind of steep). It appears that the platform was suspended from the stack frameworks like a window washer or painter's scaffolding, and possibly could have swiveled 360 degrees. If that was the case then it could be no longer than the side to side measurements of the stacks which is about the same for both. 

 

Here is the only picture I could find:

image.png.4174c9abfb359fb8c5628a2a95243173.png

It came from this guy's work:

http://ontheslipway.com/?p=1535 (You may have to click on the top picture for the funnel picture to become visible.)

 

Then there is this work by some guy we don't even know around here, :P

https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_2018_05/5b072125bd09e_ForwardFunnel(7).thumb.JPG.4a753a7ace5428cb73a8c6c49a97012e.JPG

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/17961-hms-hood-by-dan-vadas-halinski-1200-card-finished/page/4/

 

If you go by Dan's work then there is a possibility that the walkways were in an X pattern or from the top picture there could have been a "T" shaped walkway that is partly obscured by a rigging line in the top picture.

 

I do like your solution to the problem though so I will crawl back into my crevice and watch from the background again. Great looking build.

 

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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2 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Looks like I may be a little late on this one Ed. But I'm a busy body and I will throw in my .2 cents in anyway.

 

From the looks of the assembly and parts involved I wonder if the designers made an assumption that the cross platform was able to swivel inside the funnels. While they are different sizes in profile they are almost exactly the same width. (I could go downstairs and check my older set of 12 pages of plans for the Hood by P.C. Coker, but I am still a little iffy on stairs and the ones to the basement are kind of steep). It appears that the platform was suspended from the stack frameworks. and possibly could have swiveled 360 degrees. If that was the case then it could be no longer than the side to side measurements of the stacks which is about the same for both. 

 

Here is the only picture I could find:

image.png.4174c9abfb359fb8c5628a2a95243173.png

It came from this guys work:

http://ontheslipway.com/?p=1535 (You may have to click on the top picture for the funnel picture to become visible.)

 

Then there is this work by some guy we don't even know around here, :P

https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_2018_05/5b072125bd09e_ForwardFunnel(7).thumb.JPG.4a753a7ace5428cb73a8c6c49a97012e.JPG 261.18 kB · 0 downloads

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/17961-hms-hood-by-dan-vadas-halinski-1200-card-finished/page/4/

 

If you go by Dan's work then there is a possibility that the walkways were in an X pattern or from the top picture there could have been a "T" shaped walkway that is partly obscured by a rigging line in the top picture.

 

I do like your solution to the problem though so I will crawl back into my crevice and watch from the background again. Great looking build.

 

Holy smoke stacks! Talk about obsession with accuracy!  Life's too short. I guess I'd be that way if I had been on that ship and knew it well, but I wasn't and it makes no difference to me.  While looking around the web for pictures of the funnels, look what I found:

image.thumb.jpeg.edc4fb9cef826775b86ced5ffbe630e7.jpeg

Turns out Pontos is aware of this and actually made a correction set.  See that picture for correction #20?  I also ran into that problem!  I didn't know they made a fix.  I can still use that one, but after reworking the parts for #21, I don't care.

Thanks for the links! Amazing work, but just too much for me.

Ed

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18 minutes ago, Salty Dog said:

Turns out Pontos is aware of this and actually made a correction set.  See that picture for correction #20?  I also ran into that problem!  I didn't know they made a fix.  I can still use that one, but after reworking the parts for #21, I don't care.

Thanks for the links! Amazing work, but just too much for me.

Ed

That was quite a nice find, Ed.

My intuition tells me there are so few of us who actually buy then build these sets, not very many people, and even the ones who own the sets, have ever experienced the construction of the model and are aware there is an issue with fit much less that a correction is available.

Such is the life of those who are crazy enough to build stuff like this. Kudos to you my friend. :cheers:

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4 hours ago, pontiachedmark said:

Gidday Salty Dog.

Frustrating that the parts are incorrect. I admire your perseverance and finding a solution. I agree with CDW in post #77 wholeheartedly. I think the affect on the funnel is superb.

Wishing you all the best,

Mark.

Thanks Mark. I've always wanted to use that Alclad stuff.  Finally got my chance.  I like it a lot.

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3 hours ago, CDW said:

That was quite a nice find, Ed.

My intuition tells me there are so few of us who actually buy then build these sets, not very many people, and even the ones who own the sets, have ever experienced the construction of the model and are aware there is an issue with fit much less that a correction is available.

Such is the life of those who are crazy enough to build stuff like this. Kudos to you my friend. :cheers:

No one I know has even ever seen one. It's fun to show it off because you get to watch their eyes bug out!

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