Daysailer by G.L. - FINISHED - scale 1/10 - SMALL - gaff-rigged sailboat with centerboard

[G.L.]

23 hours ago, vaddoc said:

Beautiful! Will you paint the hull Geert?

Thank you Vaddoc,

Yes, considering the poor quality of the planking, I will paint the outside of the hull (cream color above the waterline, bordeaux color below). The rub rails and transom will be varnished as well as the inside of the boat.

23 hours ago, Bedford said:

There's some very nice work going on there and I'm really enjoying the difference between your traditional type of boat and my modern glued lapstrake design.

Thanks Bedford,

An other difference is that you make a model of a real existing boat, mine is an imaginary vessel.

20 hours ago, AndyG said:

This is really lovely! And she'll come even more alive as you start fitting her out, internally.

 

Andy

Thank you Andy,

I will start with the outfitting story next week.

2 hours ago, mtaylor said:

I've been following quietly, G.L.   Beautiful work and I'm also picking some tips.  

Thank you Mark

2 hours ago, Ab Hoving said:

An inspiring build!

Thanks Ab, I guess you have known the spiritual father of this gaff sail boat, Mr. Jules Van Beylen?

[Ab Hoving]

Of course. And there are so many more fantastic draughts by Jules!

[G.L.]

Before continuing the inside of the hull, I will paint the bottom. The application of masking tape is more time consuming than the painting itself. It needs three coats of paint to be opaque.

When I remove the tape the edges are not as clear-cut as I hoped.

Fortunately, when the bottom boards are in place it is not that striking.

Now I will varnish the sides above the bottom bards, anon when the risers are placed the surface of the sides will not be so accessible anymore. The masking taping has to restart now on the other side of the line. Because some stringers and risers have to be glued on the frames, I varnish now only between the frames. Later I will do the frames together with the stringers and raisers.
When the varnish is dry I glue the port stringer.

To make sure that both stringers are at the same height I measure the height of the top of the port stringer in some spots ...

... and bring it over to the starboard side.

Both stringers into place.

The heights of the risers is even more important those that of the stringers because they will bear the thwarts. Two of the thwarts will rest also on the centre board case.
Measuring the distance between the centre board case and the gunwale ...

...and bringing it over the according frames.

[G.L.]

8.6 The risers

The risers are long 5x5 mm oak bars. The upper side has to be as much as possible horizontal to give stable support to the thwarts. The frame to which the risers are to be glued are in different inclinations according to their position in the hull, so I shed one side diagonally at the ends and gradually less towards the middle. I do this a bit on the feeling, but the result is not so bad.

Gluing the riser into position.

When placing the starboard riser. I check if the height of the risers are equal to that of the center board where the thwarts will come.

 

 

Thank you to follow.

Thank you for the likes.

And thank you for the constructive comments.

 

Till next week!

Edited November 2, 2019 by G.L.

[KeithAug]

lovely work - it looks just like the real thing.

[Jim Lad]

Just catching up.  You're doing a really nice job there.

 

John

[Baker]

On 11/2/2019 at 11:17 AM, G.L. said:

When I remove the tape the edges are not as clear-cut as I hoped.

There are different types of masking tape.
For every surface there is a tape with a different adhesive strength. The blue tape of the 3M company (my employer) gave me the best results for this purpose.
With only some small errors here and there that needs to be repainted afterwards (Scraping off with a knife and thereafter repainting)

And, great work GL.

 

[FriedClams]

As Keith stated above - this model does look like the real thing.  Nice meticulous work on the stringers and risers G.L.  She is looking sweet.

 

Gary 

[G.L.]

On 11/2/2019 at 3:57 PM, KeithAug said:

lovely work - it looks just like the real thing.

 

On 11/2/2019 at 8:40 PM, Jim Lad said:

Just catching up.  You're doing a really nice job there.

 

John

Thank you Keith and John

 

On 11/4/2019 at 8:59 AM, Backer said:

There are different types of masking tape.
For every surface there is a tape with a different adhesive strength. The blue tape of the 3M company (my employer) gave me the best results for this purpose.
With only some small errors here and there that needs to be repainted afterwards (Scraping off with a knife and thereafter repainting)

And, great work GL.

 

Thank you for the info on the masking tape, Patrick.

 

On 11/6/2019 at 3:34 PM, FriedClams said:

As Keith stated above - this model does look like the real thing.  Nice meticulous work on the stringers and risers G.L.  She is looking sweet.

 

Gary 

Thanks Gary

[G.L.]

8.7 The thwarts

To determine the shape of the aft thwart I lay some small shelves across both risers.

Then I make periphery cards of both sides out of rigid drawing paper.

And also one of the middle part.

I tape the three cards carefully together without shifting them, draw the shape of the thwart and cut it out.

My first template is ready.

I make in the same way templates for the other thwarts.

I make a photocopy of all my templates with the cover of the scanner up, lake that I have a nice contrast.

The templates can now been glued on the wood and be sawn out. The three forward thwarts.

The aft thwart is a little more complicate. For this one I start with gluing three pieces of 3mm oak together.

The I glue the template on it and saw it out.

 

The forward thwart serves also as mast support and pin rail.

Overview of the thwarts.

All thwarts are strengthened with vertical knees. The forward mast bench even has four. The make them I fit also first paper templates which I use to saw out the knees.

The knees provisionally set on the forward thwart.

All the knees are glued in place and varnished.

[G.L.]

8.8: The cleats.

Like on all sailboats some cleats have to be placed. I make them from fruit wood (I believe apple).

I don't believe the making process needs a lot of explanation. The pictures show everything.

 

 

 

 

 

The cleats around the helm area:

 

Thank you to follow.

Thank you for the likes.

And thank you for the constructive comments.

 

Till next week!

[KeithAug]

Always a pleasure to catch up with your build GL. And still looking so realistic.

[mtaylor]

I agree with Keith.  I have to look twice to make sure I'm seeing a model and not a real boat.

[Moab]

I just started following your build and the photos and explanations are “incredibly” helpful. I’ve gotten many good ideas and methods of working. Thank you...Moab

[G.L.]

On 11/9/2019 at 10:20 AM, KeithAug said:

Always a pleasure to catch up with your build GL. And still looking so realistic.

Thank you for the complement, Keith

 

On 11/10/2019 at 6:15 PM, Moab said:

I just started following your build and the photos and explanations are “incredibly” helpful. I’ve gotten many good ideas and methods of working. 

Thanks Moab,

I vist this forum for 4 or 5 years and in this period I learned much more about ship modeling than I read in books during all the time before. I am very pleased that I can contribute and share my experiences.

[G.L.]

Part 9: The rudder.

To make the rudder I glue two oak planks together.

The rudder is sawn out and the round side is sanded to narrow it.

Making pintles and braces.

 

 

 

Making the rudder head and the tiller.

Fitting the rudder on the model.

[G.L.]

Part 8.9. Continuation: The inside of the hull.

Placing the transom breast hooks.

 

Thank you to follow.

Thank you for the likes.

And thank you for the constructive comments.

 

Till next week!

[G.L.]

Part 10. The fittings

10.1 The chain plates

I make chain plates from two strips of brass.

 

Because it would be difficult to nail the chain plates at the inside of the hull, I solder the nails to the plates

The I cut off the excesses of the nails at the back side and file the back of the chain plates flat.

 

It had been easier if Mr Van Beylen wrote it earlier in the practicum that the the chain plates have to go through the gunwale, I could have made the notches in advance. I drill a line of holes in the gunwale and file them out.

Fitting a chain plate into its place.

And gluing them. The curved board gives some pressure until the glue dried.

 

[G.L.]

10.2 The bow fitting

I make the bow fitting now before the hull is painted because I want the use the actual bow as a template.

Soldering an eye on the back piece.

Soldering the back piece to the front piece.

The bow fitting.

It will remain aside until the hull is painted.

[G.L.]

10.3 The jib sheet fairleads

The eyes of the fairleads are tuned from hard wood on the lathe.

I saw and file two brass plates with four holes.

 

A brass ring is holding the wooden ring.

 

The fairleads into their position on the gunwale.

 

Thank you to follow.

Thank you for the likes.

 

Till next week!

[G.L.]

Notification.

Last August after finishing my smack cross section, I started a new project. It is progressing well for the moment. In the last weeks I took some time to sort out the pictures which I have already and to write some appropriate comments. I think that it is about time to launch a log about it otherwise it will have to be retroactive like this gaff sail boat log. It is also a scratch 1/10 scale POF project. You can find the introduction on: The anatomy of a boat

[FriedClams]

Excellent work on these small brass details G.L.  I find small open boats so appealing and your model here is very nicely done - every detail.  A pleasure to watch it come together.

 

Gary  

[ccoyle]

Catching up on your log, G.L. What an outstanding model! It is a testament to the fact that the model builder's art can be as much in evidence in a "small"craft as in any 1st-rate man-of-war.

 

Cheers!

[Jim Lad]

A beautiful job of work.

 

John

[KeithAug]

Very nice detailing GL. Always a pleasure to catch up.

[luponero]

Laboratory, technique and model
simply beautiful

sincere congratulations

black Wolf

[G.L.]

On 11/23/2019 at 3:57 PM, FriedClams said:

Excellent work on these small brass details G.L.  I find small open boats so appealing and your model here is very nicely done - every detail.  A pleasure to watch it come together.

 

Gary  

 

On 11/23/2019 at 4:33 PM, ccoyle said:

Catching up on your log, G.L. What an outstanding model! It is a testament to the fact that the model builder's art can be as much in evidence in a "small"craft as in any 1st-rate man-of-war.

 

Cheers!

 

On 11/23/2019 at 9:20 PM, Jim Lad said:

A beautiful job of work.

 

John

 

On 11/23/2019 at 10:55 PM, KeithAug said:

Very nice detailing GL. Always a pleasure to catch up.

 

On 11/24/2019 at 12:25 AM, luponero said:

Laboratory, technique and model
simply beautiful

sincere congratulations

black Wolf

 

Gary, Chris, John, Keith and Black Wolf,

 

Thank you very much for your encouragements. It stimulates to continue.

And as for the small boats: I like small open boats , they have also the right to be made in model.

During my career at sea I saw many people sailing pleasure craft of all sizes and I have a kind of theory: 'The happiness of the crew is inversely proportional to the size of the vessel.'

What means in normal language: The smaller the boat, the more fun the crew has.

[G.L.]

10.4 Row lock holes

This gaff sail boat can also be used as a double row rowing boat with six oarsmen. Therefore six holes are provided to place the row locks. The holes are protected by a diamond shaped brass plate.

Making the plates:

The row lock holes:

[G.L.]

10.5 Main sail sheet traveler

To make the main sail sheet traveler I bow a 2 mm brass tube in shape and slide the traveler ring over it. The travel area of the ring is limited by two brass rings which are soldered at each side of the traveler.

To make the base of the traveler I slide again two brass rings and two 4 mm tubes over both ends and solder them together.

The bottom ends of the 4mm tubes are hammered flat.

The traveler in place on the transom.

 

Thank you to follow.

Thank you for the likes.

And thank you for the constructive comments.

 

Till next week!

[FriedClams]

On 11/30/2019 at 3:04 AM, G.L. said:

I have a kind of theory: 'The happiness of the crew is inversely proportional to the size of the vessel.'

What an insightful observation G.L. and it put a smile on my face first thing this morning.  I think most people love small boats.  Perhaps it has something to do with childhood and remembering the first time you tentatively stepped barefoot into a row boat on a summer morning in a world without cares.  

 

The oar lock plates are an elegant detail and I like the sheet traveler as well.

 

Gary