Lady Eleanor by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Glenn and Bob,

The Blackening stuff I use is called Carr's Metal Black for Brass, they are Based in the UK.

I think sheen Glenn is more related to the extent the surface is buffed, it's not something I do to any great extent on say  period gun barrels which I tend to leave fairly dull.

I used Admiralty Paints water based Metal primer in this case, as I wanted to reduce any risk of the painted areas chipping or flaking, but I rarely paint etched brass stuff, I prefer to just blacken it.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 26

 

Thinking about Masting and rigging.

 

There is not a lot of rigging on this build, but there are simplifications that can be enhanced to better reflect accuracy

 

To rig the Fifie I will be using Syren blocks and thread and referring to details given in the Sailing Drifter book by Eric March.

 

The Foremast can be enhanced by creating a false sheave in the masthead, rather than simply a hole to pass the halyard to the Fore yard through.

 

The kit provides brass etched ‘mast rings’ with six horizontal eyes, one of which is the attachment point for the Burton stays of the masts.

6162(2)

I replaced this with an ‘iron’ ring (heatshrink tubing section) and added a vertical eyebolt.

 

The masthead section has been painted white in accordance with practise of the day.

 

The Mizen Mast was treated in the same manner.

 

The Yards

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The main change I made to the yards was the replacement of a hitched tye, with an eyebolt/ hook arrangement.

 

The area between the slings I have fitted with a canvas covering, represented by micro-porus tape

 

Attaching the sails

These are connected to the yards by Robands.

Edgar March (Sailing Drifters) refers to these as Rovings being secured by a ‘Parley’ Knot, no doubt a Scottish description.

 

Given the scale I will use a simple square knot for the purpose.

 

0.20mm Syren line taken twice thro’ the sail gommets* and secured atop the yard.

*For my purposes a hole thro’ the head seam made by a needle.

 

6168

The top ends of the sail are secured to the yard via the Head cringles using earings thro’ holes in the yard arm.

 

An outstanding question is whether to add the reef points. These can be tricky little additions to get right on model sails, there is a tendency for them to stick out every which way, spoiling the effect.

 

I’ll ponder on that awhile. 🤔

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A trial fit of the sails in place.

 

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I now need to attend to the tricky business of attaching parrels to the yards.

 

 

B.E

15/07/20

 

[glbarlow]

Definitely got the color right on the sails, it all looks so color coordinated. The sail design seems so eloquently simple, nicely done.  

[BobG]

I just received the sails for the Vanguard Zulu fishing vessel, Lady Isabella, and they're excellent. The material is very realistic and the sewing is nicely done. I sure wish I had sails of this quality for my current build of the Pen Duick. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Glenn, I'm pleased with how the sails  turned out.

Get what you pay for I suppose Bob, I like them a lot, but that doesn't mean I'm not going to fiddle with them, as you will see below.😉

 

Post 27

 

Reef points and other tricky issues..

 

I have been thinking about reef points, these do not feature on the kit available sails, (didn't expect them to) but neither are they shown on the kit sail plans.

 

Several rows of reef points are appropriate to the sails on these large luggers and at 1:64 scale should really be included. Their absence is noticeable on the prominent sails of the Fifie model.

 

Several things have to be considered.

 

How many points on each sail.

 

How long are the points.

 

What is the vertical spacing of the points.

 

How to apply them to look natural.

 

I have used Harold Underhill’s scale drawings of the Zulu  Muirneag as the basis for addressing these points.

 

The points are attached along the vertical seam lines of the sails. To begin I am attaching four bands on the Foresail and two on the Mizen.

 

I have scaled the points to a length of 14mm.

 

From the drawings I have worked on the basis that the tip of  upper band is a fraction above the knot of the lower band.

 

Application of the points to the sail is an issue.

To do it properly a double length line is passed thro’ a hole in the sail and knotted at the top each side.

 

The issue with this is that getting them to hang naturally can be problematic without resorting to use of pva to hold them down on the sail.

 

This risks marking the previously dyed material.

 

I have decided to simply glue the points to the sail at the knot. This way the point lies flat, and the application of glue is better controlled.

 

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The sail is taped down to get the line of the points.

 

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Two lines of points pva’d to the Mizen sail.

 

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I’m happy with the result.

 

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This method seems quite effective and is certainly a lot less time-consuming than feeding them thro’ the sail, adding knots, and then trying to persuade them to lie reasonably flat.

 

I also attended to attaching the parrels.

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Still only a temporary rig at present.

 

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The advantage of this simple lugger rig is that I can slip the yard/sails including the parrel over the masthead.

 

 

Moving on to fix the points to the larger Fore-sail.

 

 

B.E.

16/07/20

 

[BobG]

The reef points, or tell tails as I've always called them on this side of the pond, look great and are a nice addition to the sails.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 28

 

Raising canvas

 

With the reef points completed the sails can now be raised and the sheets, tacks, halyards, and Burton pendents attached.

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Rigging the Fifie, basic as it appears, is an interesting exercise not least because I am unfamiliar with the arrangements on these small commercial vessels, and my researches have revealed details not reflected on the kit plans.

 

I am rigging the model by reference to a combination of reference books, Edgar March, primarily.

I have used the plans of Underhill relating to the Zulu Muirneag, and of the Fifie’s Reaper and True Vine. Various photos, both old and of the current Reaper, were also of great assistance.

 

There is an indication on the plans of Reaper that the tyes were of wire rather than rope (not a modern substitution)

 

I did think about using wire, a scale diameter of 0.25mm would be required. This was fairly easy to reproduce from thin twisted  copper wire, but I couldn’t get the colour right, so I let it pass.

 

I am using Syren 0.45mm ø line for the Tye, and 0.20mm for the tackle.

6284

The tackle consists of a pendent and two large triple blocks.

I am using Syren 6mm blocks.

 

The strops represent iron and wire formed from silver soldered brass wire.

6282

A similar arrangement is used for the Mizen Tye and Halyard with smaller 3/16^th double blocks (4.7mm).

 

Mizen Tack.

 

6295

A chain necklace was used to secure the Mizen tack which I have sought to replicate. The Scots called it a tuckle chain.

6288

A more interesting feature clearly shown on an old photo of the Zulu Muirneag.

 

The Fore tack

This is attached to a hook shackled to the eyebolt atop the stem. Often large hooks (horns) were attached to the port and starboard sides of the stem for this purpose.

6248

An alternative attachment point for the Fore tack is set in the deck a few feet aft of the stem.

 

This is as far as I can go with rigging at present, I am awaiting receipt of fresh rigging supplies from Chuck.

 

 

In the meantime I have been fiddling around with deck fittings.

 

These boats were also equipped with a set of sweeps for rowing. Mine are a scale 23’ overall.

 

There are also two ‘wands’ or hefty push sticks some 36’ long used to fend off and assist movement in harbour situations.

 

A 14’ boat hook completes the set.

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In this shot on the near side are the set of six sweeps, on the far side the Boat hook and wands.

The alternative hook for the Fore tack can be seen on the foredeck.

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Another shot of the sweeps and a glimpse into the hold containing the nets and floats.

 

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Not far from completion but I still have the sheets and Burton Pendents to complete, the block sets have been assembled in readiness.

 

 

B.E

23/07/20

 

 

[davyboy]

Good evening Maurice,exemplary work from you. Kit bashing is certainly your forte. Just a thought but I'm a bit surprised that you didn't think of using braided steel wire as used for fishing traces for your tyes. It comes in various sizes/diameters relative to breaking strain and is quite flexible. Looking fwd to following your next little masterpiece. Regards,

 

Dave 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Dave, I had thought of it, but in the end I was too idle to order any for the short lengths involved.🙄

 

This has been rectified now and I have ordered some for use in the 'Zulu' build, in 0.5mm, 0.8mm, and 1mm diameters which should cover what is required.

 

Cheers,

 

Maurice

[BobG]

Wonderful craftsmanship, BE! This will indeed be the definitive build log to consult for anyone building the Lady Eleanor in the future. Can't wait to follow you when you start building the Lady Isabella.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Bob, kind of you to say so.

Not so sure about definitive, but I do hope my kit interferences provide some ideas that may be of use to my fellow modellers. 🙂

I’m resisting the temptation to start the Zulu before I have done with the  Fifie but it shouldn’t be long.

 

Regards,

 

B.E. 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 29

 

A Basket for Fifie.

 

Still waiting for stuff to arrive to complete Fifie, so looking around for something to work on.

 

One of the additions that caught my eye when researching the subject is the large woven baskets used to lift the Herring catch out of the hold.

Landing the catch

There are called crans and have a specific and approved measure for holding a given quantity of herring.

Their size was regulated and standardized by government decree as a legal measure.

The 1832 Act set the cran at 30 inches high, the diameter at its widest 21.9 inches and at the base 18.9 inches –

 

I scoured the internet for something suitable to no avail, so I started to think about how I could reproduce these for display purposes at 1:64 scale.

 

The answer came in the form of an unlikely source – the centres out of the mast hoops supplied by Chuck for the Cheerful build.

6370(2)

The centres form the base with a series of holes drilled around the circumference, 0.5mm ø brass wire is used for the frames.

 

6371(2)

0.1mm line is used for the weave.

 

6375(2)

The brass rods are metal primed.

 

6379(2)

The finished basket.

The completed item measures 12mm high x 10mm diameter at the top. This equates to a size of 30” x 25”.

 

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I’m not sure that my crans would pass muster by the Scottish Fishing Authorities, but they are pretty close for scale.

 

 

B.E

 

29/07/20

 

[yvesvidal]

These baskets are superb. Now, you must build some herrings..... 😉

 

Yves

[glbarlow]

The basket is next level, I agree with Yves, now you need carved wooden herrings 😂🤣

[Blue Ensign]

Ha, Ha, fortunately on my boat they haven't started fishing yet, so a basket full of  5mm herring is thankfully not required, what a relief.😉

 

Still some supplies have at last arrived.

6435(2)

Wire rope in 0.5mm. 0.8mm and 1mm diameters.

 

I can now fill in my time  trying to make bijou shackles to fit. 🙂

 

B. E.

30/07/20

 

[Martin W]

Hello BE -- As I was touring MSW for new Swan builds, I came across this.  What fun to read through the log of your progress, and to see you and William at it on a surprisingly different sort of project.  As always your ingenuity in building in details like the baskets and the strops on the blocks is fascinating, and your narrative flair always entertaining.  And I never thought there would be such reliable archival information on the fishing fleet!

 

As I'm waiting (and waiting) to get my own work space together in my new residence, I'll get my modelling dose from watching you finish this and then moving on to the Zulu.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[Blue Ensign]

Good to hear from you Martin, hope you and Mrs W are settling into your new abode. I can't really refer to her as Mrs W of the prairies any longer, perhaps Mrs W of the Hills.😉

Connecticut looks a place I would love to live in,  rural, hills, quaint places, and a historic port, and of course it is in New England, spot on 😀

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

 

 

 

 

[Martin W]

You've listed the very reasons Mrs W of the Hills was able to convince me (she didn't have to work very hard) to move here.  Plus there's a sizeable woodworking community.

 

Here's proof of just how rural we are:

 

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[Blue Ensign]

Wonderful, we’ve not had neighbours like that for some 1500 years in ‘old’ England.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 30

 

Completing the rigging.

 

With the arrival of fresh rigging supplies from Syren I can now complete the task.

 

The Fore sheet

The Reaper has the sheets leading directly to the port or starboard sides, depending on how the sail is set.

I have taken my lead from the arrangement shown on the Underhill plan for the Zulu Muirneag.

 

6506

The sheet has a 3mm double block hooked to the clew, with the tackle running thro’ a 3mm single block attached by chain to the portside stringer with the running line secured around a belay pin, and tied off at a cleat 0.20mm line.

Mizen sail sheet

This is taken to the Portside as with the Reaper.

6513

Outboard set up of the Mizen sheets.

6525

Inboard view of the Mizen Sheets.

Burton Pendents

 

The Mizen pendent with a luff tackle is secured in the deck adjacent to the mast partners (skegs) and the fall belayed to a cleat in the partners.

6501

I didn’t glue the masts in their housings, so I fitted the Burton pendent before the Mizen sheets to secure the forward angle of the mast.

 

Fore-mast Burton Pendent.

 

This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model.

6500

Rigged to the starboard side, aft of the Halyards.

6529

Masthead view of both Fore and Mizen Burton Pendents.

 

The falls of the tackles were separately made and lightly glued to the deck.

 

6514

The fittings are now ready to go back on the deck.

 

I think Fishing boat models lend themselves and benefit from a bit of dressing up. The Fifie otherwise only has the pretty little steam capstan to provide deck interest.

6497(2)

These additional fittings represent the usual equipment carried on Fifie’s, and steam pipes would normally be found for the Galley stove, and steam Capstan.

Netting and floats have already been installed in the Fish Hold.

 

 

B.E.

 

06/08/20

 

 

 

[BobG]

Wonderful details. You've set the standard for this model. I'm afraid my will pale by comparison when I get around to building it!

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Bob, I'm sure you will enjoy building Fifie🙂

 

Post 31

 

The completed model

 

So after around three months Fifie is completed.

 

Starting with some close-up shots.

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6555

 

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6545

 

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6562

 

6563

 

6566(2)

 

6540

 

6543(2)

 

6541(2)

 

6538(2)

 

6569(2)

 

Thoughts on the Fifie kit

 

I have thoroughly enjoyed building this kit, perfect for a novice build, but offering plenty of scope to enhance and add extra detail.

 

As with all of Chris’s kit offering it makes up into a very attractive model, and one that will be fairly easy to keep dust free without the need to cover.

 

On my model very little is glued down and it could be stripped back down to deck level in a short time, pretty much as on the real thing.

 

Being of fore/aft rigging the model takes up only a modest space and makes for a nice decorative feature in a domestic setting.

 

For the new builder, I would say go for it, a great introduction to ship modelling.

 

For the more experienced builder, it provides a short time interval build, a relaxing change from perhaps more involved projects.

 

 

B.E.

07/08/20

 

[MEDDO]

Congrats on another wonderful model.  I do like the crew as it adds life to the model

[yvesvidal]

Superb model B.E. and a testimony to the quality of Chris Watton kits.

 

Yves

[BobG]

Wonderful model of a historic fishing vessel! I love the crew members. Where were you able to get them in the correct scale?

[gjdale]

Congratulations on completing a another BE masterpiece. I love the addition of the figures on this one - they really add another dimension to the finished article.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Michael, Yves, Grant, and Bob,and for the likes.

 

@ Bob -

 

The crew are Modelu 3d printed figures.

 

They are primarily Model railway figures which are produced in all the Rail scales, including S scale which is 1:64.

 

They are really finely detailed, best I’ve seen; not cheap at £7.40 each but they are suitable for the late 19^th/early 20^thc period. Just right for a model such as this.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[DelF]

Lovely, atmospheric model (I can almost smell the herring!) and another excellent build log. What's next in the dockyard?

 

Derek

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Derek, not smelling the Herring is one of the upsides of building 100 miles from the sea.😄 I did scale a Herring to 1:64, and then sanity was restored.🙄

I'm sticking with the Fishing theme and moving onto the Zulu. 🙂

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Ronald-V]

You have made another great model Blue Ensign!