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21' Fisherman's Launch by vaddoc - Scale 1:10 - Plans from Howard Chapelle's "Boatbuilding"


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That makes you appreciate the skills of 'real' boatbuilders, I guess.

 

I gather you marked out the various plank width around the main beam (didn't bother to go back in the log to check) ? I am asking this, because I have the feeling that your planks should already begin to be wider in the middle, so that the planks do not become to wide once you are getting to the chine.

Looking down the planks run sweet and easy, but when you look sideways, I feel that you might be getting too many planks at the stem. Or you will have to work with stealers around the chine. Stealers would be an obvious geometric solution, but not so ideal from a strength point of view.

The chine will be an area with a lot of stress, the boat may bump against the jetty, the nets will run against it etc. etc.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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9 hours ago, wefalck said:

your planks should already begin to be wider in the middle

Wefalck, this is a difficult boat to plank-the shape is odd.

Because of the slopping keel, the widest part of the keel (or planking) is actually near the stern, not midships. The hull has a couple of very acute curves that need narrow planks. Also, any other run of the planks, especially with wider planks, would need after spilling such curved planks that would simply be impossible to produce from available stock or would need scarfing which I do not want to do.

Another issue is that, in certain areas, quite wide planks could be used but would look very odd, very wide planks and very narrow side by side. Near the sheer and midships my planks indeed get wider but still maintain some symmetry.

 

Planking is not easy. Now, are there different ways to plank a specific hull? I honestly do not know, I have never seen two shipwrights planking the same boat to compare their planking. This would be really very interesting. Or maybe in the future someone will build his own version of the boat and may have a different arrangement.

 

The Yawl I expect will be a very different boat to plank and I suspect the priority there will be plank width symmetry.

 

@Michael_A, maybe you have some thoughts on the planking?

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Vaddoc - Exceptional dedication to planking. Are you intent on burying all this hard work under paint?

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Vaddoc, I wish I could contribute to your planking travails, but I am a beginner in that area. I keep thinking that the hull shape of your craft is similar to some bigger classic sailboats and I wonder if there are any other models out there with a similar form that you could use as a guide. I'm just not sure how to find the right photos / models.

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On 3/22/2021 at 8:15 PM, KeithAug said:

Are you intent on burying all this hard work under paint?

Oh dear Keith! I must admit I feel a bit guilty. I did not take this boat seriously in the beginning, hence the horrible plywood frames and the general casualness in the planning, fairing and overall arrangement. Indeed, I initially intended to paint the boat. But I do agree with you, if after the filler goes in, the wood sanded and sealed, it looks any good, I ll leave it unpainted.

 

On 3/23/2021 at 5:45 PM, Michael_A said:

I keep thinking that the hull shape of your craft is similar to some bigger classic sailboats and I wonder if there are any other models out there with a similar form that you could use as a guide. I'm just not sure how to find the right photos / models.

Michael, I think you have a point. Bluenose, J class boats and many other (I think mostly American) boats have similar shapes, with horn timbers and the widest part of the hull very close to the stern. I tried to find on the net photos with raw planking but could not find any. 

 

So I ve done  a few more planks, things are moving on much faster for a number of reasons. The planks are easier to spill, I am getting better at it and there is no need to steam the planks, they take the curve well. Beech is a very nice wood for planking! 

 

My frame fairing is abysmal though! A couple of frames aft in particular are very wrong. Not sure what happened but I correct them as I go.

 

So far, the initial plank planning is working. The planks just bellow the turn of the bilge are the ones that I think will need the most spilling and are quite curved. However, they are not impossible and in real life should be feasible to produce.

 

Some photos for your daily dose of planking:

 

The planks are now 65 cm long-6.5 meters in real boat. This is one of the most curved planks.

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However, this plank will only need 25 cm wide stock.

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This is the state of the boat now. This plank needs a bit more work before it can be installed.

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This is plank No 13, just 15 planks more left.

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Thanks Flying Fish! Yes, the width of the planks over the most curved parts will be (hopefully) 8 mm which I think should be fine. The planks will need to be heavily bevelled though.

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I would say that your trials and tribulations on this planking stuff is paying off now. Looks really good!

(then you can add, "yeah, from a distance a dark night, lol")

 

No, seriously, it looks good. Well done Vaddoc.

Keep it up!

Happy modelling!

Håkan

__________________________________________

 

Current build: Atlantica by Wintergreen

Previous builds

Kågen by Wintergreen

Regina by Wintergreen

Sea of Galilee boat, first century, sort of...

Billing Boats Wasa

Gallery:

Kågen (Cog, kaeg) by Wintergreen - 1:30Billing Boats Regina - 1:30Billing Boats Dana

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On 3/29/2021 at 7:37 PM, Wintergreen said:

from a distance a dark night

But Hakan, haven't you noticed, I only chose the best angles to get pictures! 🙂 Many thanks.

 

On 3/30/2021 at 8:48 PM, FriedClams said:

Sweet work Vaddoc

Thanks Gary. Now this boat would be ideal to try weathering for the first time wouldn't you agree? And I know just the log to follow. Something to think about...

 

Thanks to all for your likes!

 

Time for an update on the boat. But before that, just to mention I did put a few batens on the Yawl. Oh dear...it will be a difficult planking job with lots of steaming!

 

Also, I think I should reveal my secret on planking. I have 2 little elves helping me!

 20210402_121140.thumb.jpg.9b61af1a669b7a7afcd385514399f654.jpg

So, I started work on plank No 8. At this point, the planks on both sides are almost identical, this is a good sign. These are the patterns from both sides clamped together.

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The previous planks were actually the most curved, the planks now are becoming straighter. I am happy with the initial planning.

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And these are the two No 8 planks one on top of the other-almost identical.

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So then I moved on to No 9. Again, the spilling is not unreasonable.

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However, this is a tricky plank to fit. There is much less of a twist so it is easier to make the pattern but this plank goes on the most curved part of the hull. The planks will not sit unless their edge is pretty bevelled but also their underside hollowed. I am ashamed to admit I found easier to just chisel the frames flat! The next photo shows how thick the planks are.

20210403_150303.thumb.jpg.548b87dbaeb7cc2fbdaed5834379f177.jpg

Both planks went in quite easily. Two of the aft frames are very wrong and need shimming and a few others had the wrong bevel. It is pretty easy to tell actually, the planks at 2 mm are very thick and immediately show the problem areas.

 

A few pictures of the planking so far. They are taken from quite far due to the size of the boat.

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And on to the next. I have been reusing pieces of the previous cardboard templates and with the plank twist getting less, the process is speeding up. The planks though are getting pretty long, I guess this one is around 65 cm long

20210403_170025.thumb.jpg.c7dfcb121b0f8785d5cb20dc1e031c1d.jpg

Regards

Vaddoc

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That really is some lovely planking nice one vaddoc.  I've also used thick planks and I found that if I didn't bevel them right to meet the previous plank the error really stood out.  The other problem I discovered was if I bevelled the plank too much it looked great when I first put it on, but not so good once I got sanding.  The gap just got bigger and bigger.  I have to be honest though your work looks pretty much perfect I can see just how much work that you have put into this.  Looking forward to your next update.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 4/3/2021 at 7:52 PM, vaddoc said:

I have 2 little elves helping me!

 

Granddaughter still a pixie but you have given me an idea ------ never too early to start.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Hi Vaddoc

 

Just catching up.  Geez...for crying out loud!!!  How the hell you’re able to build these technically accurate, beautifully constructed models woven together with a touch of magic and oodles of skill, is nothing short of amazing.  And...this model is no exception, as witnessed by the perfect planking and framing.

 

Nice job!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick 

 

 

Edited by Omega1234
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Dear all

 

Planking is finished! I also trimmed the planks at the transom and shaped the stem.

20210425_124637.thumb.jpg.fad23dde297673d3c44539e5b8af8a13.jpg

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John and Bob and to all that hit the like button, many thanks!

Keith, whole heartedly recommended. 

 

On 4/4/2021 at 3:22 PM, Michael_A said:

Here's a photo of the Universal Utility 4

Thanks Michael, following your post I did quite a bit of internet search. I think it really would be very nice to have a model of the Universal 4 in the engine bay. I am not sure though I can pull this off! We ll see!

 

On 4/4/2021 at 4:31 PM, No Idea said:

 I've also used thick planks and I found that if I didn't bevel them right to meet the previous plank the error really stood out.  The other problem I discovered was if I bevelled the plank too much it looked great when I first put it on, but not so good once I got sanding.  The gap just got bigger and bigger.

No idea, thanks for the good wards and indeed, you are spot on right. More in the post bellow

 

On 4/22/2021 at 2:27 PM, Omega1234 said:

Just catching up

My dear Patrick! So nice to have you back!

 

Now, I am generally happy with my planking planning. If I was to do it again, I may have used a second stealer or have used an extra plank at the curve of the hull. But overall it is a feasible planking. None of the planks had an impossible curve and the planks blanks were no bigger than 20-25 cm wide, though the sheer plank I think was 70 cm long!

 

My frames were very wrong. Especially the two aft frames were completely wrong and even mispositioned. I had to sim one side and chisel away on the opposite, essentially fairing as I went along. Now you might ask if I had done any fairing before planking, the answer is none whatsoever. I relied on the CAD drawings, on which I did not spend much time and then used plywood which was bending when cutting the patterns. Still, the wood showed me the correct shape and thankfully, my transom placement proved very accurate.

 

My first planks were poorly made. As I was getting into rhythm, the planks improved considerably. I tried to remake the first 2 planks but it was very difficult-I gave up.

 

I regret using a knife to cut the planks instead of sanding them into shape. This caused poor fitting with one another. Also, I regret I did not bevel the first 4 planks where there is the hollow at the stern. These gaps bother me a lot and will get worse with sanding, I hope filler will do the job. Planking the contralateral side created problems due to the wrong frames and some of the planks could have had a more elegant run. I really should have used the disc sander instead of a knife

 

However, I started this boat with the intention of cutting some corners to speed things up and cut costs. I still think it will work!

 

Next, to replace the 850 screws with wood nails and fill and sand the hull. Will I paint it? It depends. If it looks half decent, I ll leave it. If it looks awful, paint will hide all sins!

 

I suspect I ll end up painting it. The Admiral wants red or green bottom with Ivory upper.

 

Regards

Vaddoc

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Splendid job Vaddoc!

Can't wait to see the screws gone 😉 

The stem came out really, really nice. Excellent shape.

 

Keep it up!

Happy modelling!

Håkan

__________________________________________

 

Current build: Atlantica by Wintergreen

Previous builds

Kågen by Wintergreen

Regina by Wintergreen

Sea of Galilee boat, first century, sort of...

Billing Boats Wasa

Gallery:

Kågen (Cog, kaeg) by Wintergreen - 1:30Billing Boats Regina - 1:30Billing Boats Dana

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Hey Vaddoc

 

Re:  Your last paragraph about the painting of your beautifully planked hull.  Well...our Australian Prime Minister, Scott Morrison has been alerted and he has scheduled an urgent meeting with your PM to discuss the issue. At this stage, it is hoped that diplomatic action will be enough to avert the heinous action that you intend committing.  Should you still continue to pursue the painting of such a beautifully planked hull, I understand that economic sanctions may be invoked as the ‘last resort option’.

 

Oh...who am I kidding, if that’s your wife’s desire, then so be it.  It’ll still be one heck of a model no matter what you choose to do!!!

 

Hehehe

 

All the best!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Edited by Omega1234
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That’s a very nice job vaddoc. In regards to the gaps rather than using filler I would fill the gap with wood glue and then sand the hull whilst the glue is still wet. That may just fill them up and it would also be the correct colour. 

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Nice work, Vaddoc.

 

Regarding the plank seams that concern you, at the large scale that you are working to why don’t you try following full sized practice and caulk them?

 

You should be able to work thread into the seam using a miniature caulking tool made from a craft knife blade.  When you paint your model the plank seams will not be hidden, just like a real wooden boat.

 

If you don’t like the effect, you can pull out the caulking and resort to some sort of goop.

 

Roger

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  • 3 weeks later...

Dear all

 

Thank you for your good words and encouragement. I apologise for taking so long to reply, I simply have had no free time at all.

 

At this time I 'd like to clear a misunderstanding: The Admiral does not have a strong opinion whether the hull should be painted or not. But if it does get painted, she has dictated the colours. So our options are still open! 

 

Back to the boat: I replaced all the screws with wooden nails dipped in PVA. It was a good time for this repetitive task, as I was able to work in the house and did not matter how tired I was. I forgot to take pictures though.

 

Then, I filled all the gaps with filler. The larger gaps were also filled from the inside. This time I used Osmo filler, beech colour. I had not used it before. It is ok, it sands fine but it dries incredibly fast. So the hull looked something like this:

20210515_155132.thumb.jpg.a3ee6fc2c31bbc01bdb02af3739da0e3.jpg

20210515_155142.thumb.jpg.288dc25e47c8d8ecde9dc66fde1856fe.jpg

I only found time to go back to the boat today. So, I started sanding the hull. I used 120 grit initially but then went to 80 grit. After the bulk of the filler was removed, I used carpet knife blades to scrape the excess wood. It went largely ok. Some edges need a bit more attention and lots more sanding with finer grits is needed but it is getting there. 

 

20210515_180620.thumb.jpg.fe6c311497f50aa58288464f6006e743.jpg

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The bow needs definitely more work. The gaps do not look too bad and the colour of the filler I suspect will change after the sealer is applied. I may experiment with Tung oil although I seem to remember that Beech does not like oils much. 

As sanding progresses, a few more gaps will appear that will need filling. Also, before I started sanding I noticed a screw hole I had forgotten to nail. I need to locate it again and put a nail in.

 

Regards

Vaddoc

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The planking looks very good, Vaddoc. Very well done.

Painting the hull or keeping it in natural wood, it's always a difficult decision. After doing all this excellent work on the planking I would keep the wood natural.

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14 hours ago, vaddoc said:

Dear all

 

Thank you for your good words and encouragement. I apologise for taking so long to reply, I simply have had no free time at all.

 

At this time I 'd like to clear a misunderstanding: The Admiral does not have a strong opinion whether the hull should be painted or not. But if it does get painted, she has dictated the colours. So our options are still open! 

 

Back to the boat: I replaced all the screws with wooden nails dipped in PVA. It was a good time for this repetitive task, as I was able to work in the house and did not matter how tired I was. I forgot to take pictures though.

 

Then, I filled all the gaps with filler. The larger gaps were also filled from the inside. This time I used Osmo filler, beech colour. I had not used it before. It is ok, it sands fine but it dries incredibly fast. So the hull looked something like this:

20210515_155132.thumb.jpg.a3ee6fc2c31bbc01bdb02af3739da0e3.jpg

20210515_155142.thumb.jpg.288dc25e47c8d8ecde9dc66fde1856fe.jpg

I only found time to go back to the boat today. So, I started sanding the hull. I used 120 grit initially but then went to 80 grit. After the bulk of the filler was removed, I used carpet knife blades to scrape the excess wood. It went largely ok. Some edges need a bit more attention and lots more sanding with finer grits is needed but it is getting there. 

 

20210515_180620.thumb.jpg.fe6c311497f50aa58288464f6006e743.jpg

20210515_180707.thumb.jpg.6612ad490d7f35457c5bf95af07e5949.jpg

20210515_180728.thumb.jpg.23da09c2482585991a9a82db589c5d36.jpg

20210515_180748.thumb.jpg.0e72be8d07e5ebde38ed3549a3130946.jpg

20210515_181311.thumb.jpg.b0bd35e29810e65f42544689c6a11e29.jpg

 

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