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Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner


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Still working on removing the spacers between the frames.  That involves putting some stress on things even with lots of ISO.  Next time, don't do it that way.  I even used softer AYC  (end-grain only) and cheap white school glue and they are still too well glued in.  Maybe the white glue does not react to the ISO as I had assumed.  I'm going to have to cut out some of them.

Maury

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Maury

 

I used Lepages white glue and water loosened a dry joint after soaking with paper towel wrapped joint.

 

Have a good day

Will :pirate41:

Current Build:

Erycina 1882 Fishing Trawler by Vanguard Models 1:64 scale

Syren by pearwill Model Shipways 1:64 scale

On Hold:

HM Cutter Cheerful  Syren Shipmodel Scratch 1:48 scale

1776 Washington Row Galley scratch scratch from NRG plans #121  1:48 scale

Completed Build:

Charles W. Morgan by Artesania Latina circa 1988, Lowell Grand Banks Dory 1:24 scale by Model Shipways, Norwegian.Sailing Pram 1:12 scale by Model Shipways, Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 scale by Model Shipways

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

 

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The spacers are removed and some of the cross-braces are taken out so I can install the keelson.

I have a lot of odd-shaped sanding sticks that come in handy.  This one was used to smoothe the tops of the frames.

ECB2Tool.jpg.ca479255572ff95fe01dcfcdd5eacf68.jpg

Just an old frame part with 80 grit paper cemented on.   The keelson is notched with side supports to create the mast steps.

 

Once the keelson fits on snug, it is glued and held in place fore and aft using the gantries.

ECB2_Keelson1.jpg.df1a0daee09789f40f1ce1e088ceab02.jpg

 

ECB2_Keelson2.jpg.e3ca17a3550fcdd784d221899183a7f7.jpg

This will help stabilize the frames so I can start fairing the insides to accept the clamps and ceiling planks.

Maury

 

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Cross braces and spacers removed.  Internal fairing continues slowly.

 

ECB2_Framing12.thumb.jpg.c42137583488420dc4a3cbf8301c6ca4.jpg

 

ECB2_Framing11.thumb.jpg.0ec6faca73f85c41c015070de49390f4.jpg

The line of the top of the clamps is marked on the frames.  The clamps are 7.5" x 2.4" and taper from frame 17 - frame 25.  The shape is yet to be determined.  It seems a pretty natural sheer in the fore half.  Need some spiling or bending in the aft section.

Maury

 

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As a big fan of schooners I love seeing a framed versus bulkhead model progressing so well.  She looks really good Maury!   Do you plan to leave off a few pieces of planking to show off your work on the frames?  I think it would add a very nice touch and give viewers a better appreciation of what you have gone through.

Allan

 

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Thank you Druxey.  Her lines are wonderful.  Perhaps that's why she survived for so long.  Allan, I think some of the planking will be left off.  Just haven't decided the motif for doing so.  Perhaps partial as if being repaired, or just leave off all the planks on one side from the garboard up to what would be a wale...

She will be painted in the Noank traditional green below the bulwarks and above the red oxide bottom.   I understand Slade Dale was not thrilled with Mystic electing to paint her black.  We'll see.

Maury

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Clamps are going in, set at the depth of the deck beams below the tops of the frames,

ECB2_Clamp-clamped.thumb.jpg.b6bad8cb56bf1c4a1184d43494308265.jpg

 

After the glue set...

ECB2_Clamps-Fore.jpg.7c4fee21618c3ca56ebf599e2a77d756.jpg

ECB2_Clamps-Aft.jpg.5cda8b9c7550b0e27ab1bea4dfa4875b.jpg

The top edge of the clamps, where they twist near the stern, will be chiseled off so the beams will seat well.

 

Maury

 

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The cabin sole is fitted and the bunks made up.  At the aft end of the bunks will be a bulkhead.  At the fore end of the bunks, there will be a bulkhead and door into the center section.

The lower bed logs for the wet well cut and fit.

 

ECB2_BedLogs1.thumb.jpg.3370a135ed1853bff519536d22cf86cf.jpg

 

Now that those are located, I can start on the ceilings.

Maury

 

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OOPS, I need to install the mid and forecastle soles before the ceilings.

Maury

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The sole sleepers are in and card patterns for the soles are cut.  The planks will be tapered and edge-glued.

 

ECB2_SolePatterns.thumb.jpg.69b9d7b7c11cd4296b6ca445ab896c15.jpg

The wet-well bed logs are glued in place.  The inside of the well will be "Copper-bottom Red", the outside oiled...per the plan.  The edges of the logs have a #2 pencil lead coating simulating tar.  Several planks will be left off for presentation.

Maury

 

Edited by Maury S
grammar
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Looking good Maury. It will be fun to watch your progression of the interior

 

 

Current Build:

Erycina 1882 Fishing Trawler by Vanguard Models 1:64 scale

Syren by pearwill Model Shipways 1:64 scale

On Hold:

HM Cutter Cheerful  Syren Shipmodel Scratch 1:48 scale

1776 Washington Row Galley scratch scratch from NRG plans #121  1:48 scale

Completed Build:

Charles W. Morgan by Artesania Latina circa 1988, Lowell Grand Banks Dory 1:24 scale by Model Shipways, Norwegian.Sailing Pram 1:12 scale by Model Shipways, Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 scale by Model Shipways

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

 

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Soles installed.

ECB2_Soles3.thumb.jpg.6f99b6ea161c96c2026c9763069433b5.jpg

Next up, the ceilings.  1.5" x 5".

Maury

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The ceilings are being installed.  I had to decide which side would be un-planked for display, so it's the starboard side.  Ceilings will be partial on that side as will outer planking.   The butt pattern is similar to the outer planking (two frames between and two strakes between.

ECB2_CeilStrakes.thumb.jpg.835ea0b4770d753fe8dbd8de1b15657b.jpg

In an effort to conserve my Costello Box supply, the ceilings are AYC.  The restoration in Mystic used Southern Cedar, so close enough.  The bed logs, frames and keel within the well are painted Copper Bottom red.

Maury

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Looking good Maury. I like using the AYC as it is not a hard a boxwood and when treated with wipe on poly it really comes to life.

 

 

Current Build:

Erycina 1882 Fishing Trawler by Vanguard Models 1:64 scale

Syren by pearwill Model Shipways 1:64 scale

On Hold:

HM Cutter Cheerful  Syren Shipmodel Scratch 1:48 scale

1776 Washington Row Galley scratch scratch from NRG plans #121  1:48 scale

Completed Build:

Charles W. Morgan by Artesania Latina circa 1988, Lowell Grand Banks Dory 1:24 scale by Model Shipways, Norwegian.Sailing Pram 1:12 scale by Model Shipways, Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 scale by Model Shipways

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

 

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I am not a great fan of AYC (i.e. it doesn't hold an edge when carved, gets fuzzy, etc) but there are some applications where it can be used effectively.  It is soft and can be edge-bent easily (see Chuck's instructions on bending).  The ceilings and most other interior parts will be painted grey so I chose to use it here.

Maury

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8 hours ago, Maury S said:

I am not a great fan of AYC (i.e. it doesn't hold an edge when carved, gets fuzzy, etc) but there are some applications where it can be used effectively.  It is soft and can be edge-bent easily (see Chuck's instructions on bending).  The ceilings and most other interior parts will be painted grey so I chose to use it here.

Maury

Test this first as it might help.   Brush some Super Thin CA on before you carve and let it dry.  I'm finding it does help even with boxwood when the carvings get really thin.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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  • 2 weeks later...

The ceilings and bulkheads are done.  Starboard side partially exposed.  The wet well can not be constructed until the deck beams above are installed.  I removed the half breadth plans (showing the framing layout) and replaced them with deck plans.  The beam layout was re-drawn and differs from Ben Lankford's plans because of the schooner rig.

 

ECB2_Interior1.jpg.5d1f9289b245770624e8874fbecd2426.jpg

ECB2_Interior2.jpg.d91c050b6a2081fd1c3bfac384875264.jpg

 

ECB2_Interior3.jpg.30f03bdc387eecf1add00f0bee38eb23.jpg

 

ECB2_Interior4.jpg.6e2c7b7a94a46ef9a813e716afd8736b.jpg

 

I think the stringers on the outside of the frames can now be removed and the frames faired in prep for the planking.  I've spent some time reviewing the reconstruction notes from Mystic.  Very helpful with many of the details.

Maury

Edited by Maury S
spelling corr.
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The outside  of the frames have been roughly faired.  This involved a couple of shims at a few frames.  I think Greg Herbert's [DVM27] comment about not beveling frames before installation is right-on.  The additional sanding (fairing) is less work and cleaner than shimming.

ECB2_Frames1.jpg.cc8680d405b0a9101a5c32c899d695c4.jpg

 

ECB2Frames2.jpg.5b68a9ef5aea32fe3f222f8af01b669a.jpg

 

ECB2Frames3.jpg.47be3b32a1815bac1e5e1a03d2e969b9.jpg

 

Next is to extend the wet well bed logs down to the outer edge of the frames.  Then start on the deck beams at the top of the wet well. 

Planking will be put off 'til the deck work and covering boards are in place as they define the shear.

Maury

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I don't recall any shims on the cutter, or the Hoy, or the....

M

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In order to finish the interior (wet well), some deck beams need to be installed as they support the corner frames of the well.  The first of these beams is being installed.

ECB2_1stBeam.thumb.jpg.557cbc753e3b53816297eea361266521.jpg

Sorry for the cluttered background.  The location of the beam is determined by the plan on the building board.  The gantry is set to align with the forward edge of the beam.  A heavy (flat, even, smooth) board is clamped at the cross brace on the top of the gantry.  The beam was pre-cut and sanded to the correct upper shape and roughly to the bottom shape.  After fitting the beam (side to side), the lower edges are trimmed to the proper depth (5"  / .104" @ scale) and beveled so the beam faces remain plumb.  Clamping the beam to the board as shown in the photo keeps the beam in position while the glue to the clamp dries.

Maury

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I see your favorite solution in the background! ;) 
 

Coming along nicely. I like the way you use the overhead gantry to ensure the vertical orientation of the beam.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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The wet well is complete.  The planks of the well are painted Copper-Red on the inside and will be oiled on the outside.  They are supported by 4"x4" posts that run from the frames at the bottoms to the intersection of deck beams and carlings at the top.  That's why some of the beams needed to be installed before the well was completed.

 

 

 

ECB2_well5.jpg.84d5afd29f4c6d1a515ab00ae052f022.jpg

 

Most of the planks on the aft end and starboard side are omitted for visual impact.

Maury

ECB2_Well2.jpg

 

Edited by Maury S
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