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Safety first, second and third. What to never forget.


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You can buy push sticks or make them.   Many of us use bamboo chopsticks or just some long scrap wood.  Use two.... one of press down and keep the wood from rising and the other at the aft end to push it through.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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@wefalck Indeed I am. But I thanks for the search anyway 🙂

But I need to make some fore small stock also.

20211230_194523.jpg.ff1e1ba508ba7b870a35a7395d75dd9e.jpg

Happy modelling!

Håkan

__________________________________________

 

Current build: Atlantica by Wintergreen

Previous builds

Kågen by Wintergreen

Regina by Wintergreen

Sea of Galilee boat, first century, sort of...

Billing Boats Wasa

Gallery:

Kågen (Cog, kaeg) by Wintergreen - 1:30Billing Boats Regina - 1:30Billing Boats Dana

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Hakan  First I am glad to hear that you are healing well and that your injury to your hand minimal. Second the push stick on the right is the only kind that I will use, I do not however add the piece with the screws at the back. I cut them out of MDF in a few different thicknesses from 1/8th (3mm) to 1/2 (12mm) and as they wear I make new ones or re-cut the bottom edges. I have never used the type on the left as I think they are dangerous.

My saw is a 10 inch Unisaw that was  3HP and has been down powered to a 1/2 HP with mostly 8 inch hollow ground plywood blades. I like the large surface and solid cast iron top that the rigid Unisaw has. I also use zero clearance inserts cut from 3/8 (10mm) MDF I add the leveling screws which are 10x24 grub screws.

 

Michael

.

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Hopefully your hand will heal quickly Hakan! You have come out wiser from this incident but also we are all more aware of the risks now.

I have the small Proxon table saw but early on I realised it is by far the most dangerous tool I own. I ve actually stopped using it, I am just too careless!

@michael mott Grabbing the opportunity, Michael I hope your hand is also healing well!

 

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Thanks for sharing your the story of your mishap, Håkan. I'm glad that your injuries weren't worse.

 

I've been thinking of getting a Byrnes table saw but am hesitant because table saws they scare me. I've read quite a bit about using them safely and recently watched the the excellent NRG presentation by Kurt Van Dahm on using a table saw safely but they still seem so dangerous to me. It seems to me that just about everyone who has a table saw has either had an accident or a close call at some point. I may still get one but I wonder if I would ever feel comfortable using it. 

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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Me too @BobG, me too.

I would not be hesitant of getting a Byrnes table saw if it were an option. Sadly, living in Europe postage and customs take the fun out of it.

The pros of these small table saws (Brynes, Proxxon, others) is that the blade is very small. Sharp yes, but still small. Set at correct height for every cut, which is were I screwed up, and you should be good to go.

Also, the motors reflect the use. Remember, I put a smaller blade (165 mm instead of standard 250/254/305mm) in my 1,5hp, 400V table saw. Byrnes is powered by a 1/3hp 110V motor. The Proxxon I don't find the specs for. My point is, that even a small blade can cause kickbacks and injuries, but with care and careful set-up of each cut, the risk for serious troubles are less. Apart form wearing googles (if appropriate) wear an apron as an extra layer of protection against kickback. The pieces cut on these model makers table saw are generally small and will not cause serious damage if kick-back occurs.

Wear an apron and take it slow. And Enjoy!

Happy modelling!

Håkan

__________________________________________

 

Current build: Atlantica by Wintergreen

Previous builds

Kågen by Wintergreen

Regina by Wintergreen

Sea of Galilee boat, first century, sort of...

Billing Boats Wasa

Gallery:

Kågen (Cog, kaeg) by Wintergreen - 1:30Billing Boats Regina - 1:30Billing Boats Dana

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Sadly I am qualified to comment here: just three days ago I brushed a moving belt on a benchtop drill. A finger was dragged into the pulley. 

I still have the finger but it is very colourful. Why was the guard not covering the belt drive? Because I had been changing speeds often and got lazy. 

I am lucky that I have been 're-incentivised' with only minor damage. 

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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6 hours ago, Wintergreen said:

I would not be hesitant of getting a Byrnes table saw if it were an option.

 

Thanks, Håkan, for your encouraging reply. I don't have the space for a large table saw but maybe that's a blessing in disguise. A Byrnes saw is on my shopping list and I think I can use it safely by learning to use it properly. One of my other hobbies is playing guitar so I really do want to keep my fingers intact! 

 

 

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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Bob,

I do understand your fears and can relate.  This is something only you can resolve.   If you decide to go ahead a get one, then I offer a few suggestions.  These apply to basically any circular saw, full size or model size no matter what brand.  My disclaimer is that I don't have a Byrnes but another brand of small hobby saw but the principles are the same.

 

1) No matter what saw you buy, download and read this. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23843-byrnes-saw-reference-also-good-for-other-desktop-hobby-saws/  It has a good section on blade tooth count vs. wood thickness which works also for non-Byrnes hobby saws.  I use it a lot for my saw.

 

2) To be honest, never lose your fear.  Accept it and use it to your advantage such as double checking everything before hitting the power switch.  I also make sure that I'm standing out of the line of fire as such if there's a kickback.  If need be, make a check list and post it at the saw area.  

 

3) Push sticks in my view are an absolute must as well as assorted "homebrew" fences.  I do a dry run (no power) at least once to make sure there's no issue with fences, etc. and check that my fingers can stay well away from the blade.  Forget the gloves as they seem to block a lot of situational awareness of where fingers are and in many ways give a false sense of security.

 

4) I do have set of those wood "fingers" that can be installed to the fence and deck.  The fingers are angled such that the wood being fed in, is prevented from kicking back.  But they do need adjusting and checking that they're not too loose or too tight.

 

5) Never, ever take anything for granted.  Check and then re-check before hitting the power. 

 

This last is a suggestion.... make or buy some zero clearance inserts and if they don't have them drill some holes so the vacuum can pull of much of the saw dust from the top of saw.   The zero clearance insert will keep small cut-offs from sliding down the side of the blade and creating a problem the might make you reach next to the blade to grab the wood.

 

Hope this helps.   Just make shop safety a focus whether it's using a saw, drill press, a mill or any other tool.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Thanks, Mark. Excellent post and and your comment about using fear as an advantage for using power tools safely is sage advice.

 

For many years I was passionately involved in rock climbing and mountaineering and fear was part of the game. To me the sport combined the mental and the physical like no other sport I had ever participated in with the added bonus of doing it in some of the most beautiful environments on Earth with friends that you could trust your life with. Staying vigilant with a healthy dose of fear was paramount in preventing a mistake. Unfortunately, I was around several fatal accidents over the years and nearly all of them involved climber error. I'd bet that the vast majority of table saw accidents are user error also.

 

All the best to you in 2022, Mark.

Edited by BobG

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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With a small table saw such as a Byrnes, with a proper set-up you are unlikely to have a kick-back. However, as a precaution, I always stand to the left of the path of any potential flying object.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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I learned the hard way to have a healthy respect for non-powered tools as well.  Back in 2008 I lost my grip on a piece I was carving, and within milliseconds, cut the tip off of my middle finger.  The tip grew back, but feels very strange to this day whenever it makes contact with anything.

 

Alan

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  • 2 weeks later...

I highly recommend these Micro-Jig Grr-Rippers.  The picture below shows it on a full size table saw, but you can get a 1/8” leg and so I use it on my Byrnes saw.  Much easier and safer than using push sticks.

 

image.jpeg.c97dbcc55b19eee8f1448698d1ac51ca.jpeg
 

Another great safety accessory is a cross-cut sled.  You can order one from Jim if you have a Byrnes saw.

 

image.jpeg.d8af807ed322b879d6a717f4a8781fce.jpeg

 

I feel very fortunate to not have suffered an injury thus far.  I find it best to first think about the cut and make sure you tick off your safety list.  For me, my list includes things like eye protection, where am I standing, appropriate blade height, and visualizing and setting up how am I supporting and pushing the wood through the blade.  I always wear short sleeve t shirts and would never wear gloves!

 

I’ve often had to stop myself when thinking to do a “quick cut” to take a step back and make sure the safety y precautions are taken.  My guess is rushing and getting too in a groove to the point you’re not fully concentrating are some of the biggest contributors to accidents.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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3 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

I’ve often had to stop myself when thinking to do a “quick cut” to take a step back and make sure the safety y precautions are taken.  My guess is rushing and getting too in a groove to the point you’re not fully concentrating are some of the biggest contributors to accidents.

Good post, and the last (which I've quoted) applies not just to saws and tools but just about everything.  Inattention can kill you.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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On 1/14/2022 at 1:48 AM, knightyo said:

I learned the hard way to have a healthy respect for non-powered tools as well.  Back in 2008 I lost my grip on a piece I was carving, and within milliseconds, cut the tip off of my middle finger.  The tip grew back, but feels very strange to this day whenever it makes contact with anything.

 

Alan

When cutting something with a knife, a chisel, or something like that, while holding the piece in my hand, I always visualise first the possible trajectory of the tool, should it slip ... it may then not always the most convenient and strongest holding position, but the blade certainly will not end up in some valued body part ;)

 

The relative resistance of your two hands, the material, and the blade may not be easy to judge. Also the trajectory of the blade in the material may be controlled by a varying strength of the wood (man-made materials normally have a homogeneous distribution of strength).

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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  • 2 weeks later...

I almost  hate to bring this up, but talking with a friend a bit ago made me think I should.

 

If you've had an adult beverage or having one, or doing any kind of drugs, don't use power tools.  Period.   By drug I'm talking legal or illegal and it can even be over the counter meds as some do cause drowsiness or slow reaction times.  Check the labels and/or Google it, if you're unsure.  It was mentioned to me that my BP med can cause dizziness (and it does) and so, no power tools for several hours after taking my meds.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Good advice, Mark. 

 

I shouldn't use power tools right after I get up either. I've been known to drop stuff and bump into things before I have some coffee and fully wake up! 😂 

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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On 1/25/2022 at 8:47 AM, wefalck said:

The relative resistance of your two hands, the material, and the blade may not be easy to judge. Also the trajectory of the blade in the material may be controlled by a varying strength of the wood (man-made materials normally have a homogeneous distribution of strength).

... and I have the scars to prove it.

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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