Glad Tidings by Paul Le Wol - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/24 - pinky schooner

[Paul Le Wol]

Hello Everyone, I’ve been working on this build for a couple of weeks now. The plan was that if the first bit of planking went well I would start a log. After an oops or two it seems to be on track so here we go. The model is going to be of a working boat so the deck layout will be different from Glad Tidings’.

 

 

 I got along fairly well using Chuck’s planking tutorials and his monograph for Cheerful so I thought that I would give it another go with this build. Replaced the kit supplied wood with Alaskan Yellow Cedar from Modelers Sawmill. The basswood that came with the kit was very nice but I think the AYC is easier to work with. Glued the two halves of the bulkhead former together which ends up being 1/4” thick. Glued a strip of 1/16” x 1/8” basswood to the center of the former leaving 1/16” on either side. Then tapered from the bearding line to the basswood strip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cut new stem, keel, and stern post from a 1/4” sheet of cedar using the kit parts as a template. Attached them to the former and then planed and sanded them to the correct profile.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are a lot of bulkheads in this kit. They are less than an inch apart. Started at the bow and cut spacer blocks as I went.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Roughed in the subfloor and walls of the footwell. Because the deck layout is different, I’m not installing the deck beams and carlings as shown in the drawings. The Keel Klamper won’t fit between the bulkheads so I attached two plywood tab for it to clamp to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Going to end this post here and restart in a little while with the planking 

 

 

 

 

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Everyone, The Pinky is ready to plank.The planking will be 1/16” x 1/4”. The directions suggest that you can make the wide section of the garboard and the steeler out of one piece of sheet so that’s what I did. Laid a strip of wood along the hull where the broad strake would sit in order to get an idea of how far forward the garboard would run and to get some dimensions. This is where my first oops occurs. I sanded the garboard so that it sat in the rabbet at the stern post and along the keel. I took measurements at the stern post and at bulkhead number 7. Joined the two points with a straight line and cut.

 

 

 

 

 

This is what I ended up with. Both sides are the same so I  it wasn’t a sanding error. Should have taken measurements at each bulkhead.

 

 

The next strake needed some finessing to fill the gap. Been gluing scraps of wood to the backside of planks at the stern where the planks twist to keep them on the same plane. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

The planking looks like it’s back on track so I lined off the hull where belt C ends and used tick strips to measure the remaining two strakes in that belt.

 

 

 

 

 

Belt C is finished so I lined off the hull for Belts B and A

 

 

That  is where the build is at as of today. See you next time.

Edited August 28, 2022 by Paul Le Wol

[hamilton]

Your planking looks very nice - I like that this kit provides a planking expansion with the plans - a real rarity, but I recall it being so helpful, even though the expansion was not always exactly correct for the model as built. 

hamilton

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi hamilton, thank you. I agree, the planking expansion is a very nice feature to have. The rest of the plans and documentation are very thorough. Actually the whole kit is very nicely made

[hamilton]

Yes - this kit was one of my favourites - had a lot of fun making it back in the day

hamilton

[Paul Le Wol]

23 minutes ago, hamilton said:

Yes - this kit was one of my favourites - had a lot of fun making it back in the day

hamilton

hamilton, you built a beautiful Pinky. I’ll be referencing your build log often 

[CiscoH]

Paul you are a speedy builder!

can u do some sideshots of your binder clamps?  they look like they work better the ones i’ve been Mcgyvering.

also what glue are you using for the planking?

[Seventynet]

Pulling up a chair to watch another one of your beauties! 
Ian

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Cisco, I‘be been using the small quick clamps. I only have three of them so I should get another pair. Probably should get a pair of Dewalts and a pair of the American Tools clamps which are smaller and get into tighter places. Used white pva where the garboard entered the rabbet. After that I used white pva to edge glue the planks and CA to glue the planks to the bulkheads. Also use CA where the planks enter the rabbet at the stem and the stern post. I‘ve been gluing three or four bulkheads at a time and clamping for ten minutes until the CA sets up. Here’s a couple of photos. Just finished Belt B today. I’ll post some “action “ shots when I start Belt A.

 

 

 

 

 

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Ian, thank you very much 

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Cisco, I forgot to mention the binder clamps. I glued two strips of wood together at the ends on both sides of the clamp. They weren’t very effective clamping this 1/16” cedar so I just use them for light duty holding.

 

[Mike Collier]

I do about the same thing with my clamps, I hold a strip of wood against the plank ,then push the clamp down tight on the bulkhead and push up tight to the plank. I like your planking it looks great. Hey CiscoH, I live in Newport, any wooden model clubs in Delaware?

[Cathead]

Nice planking so far!

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Eric, thank you very much. My aim is to try and get the planking nice enough so that it can be seen under the brushed on paint. Happy to see that you are starting a new build and log.

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Everyone, the planking has been completed on the pinky. Most of Belt B consisted of 1/4” planks . When I got to Belt A, I changed to 3/16” planks in order to have six strakes. The sheer strake had to have a 1/4” plank at the stern. All of the strakes were pretty much the same , tapering at both ends. No edge bending was used. The planks were tapered and then held under a running tap just enough to wet them. Then I put a curve in them using finger pressure for five or ten minutes. The planks at the stern needed a twist along their length. By that time they had dried enough to glue them in place. For some reason I would always start at the stern post and work towards midship and then do the same at the stem. All of the strakes  have either two or three planks. The joints that are close to the stem and the stern are going to be faked. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

I would usually do one or two strakes a day and then do some sanding with 180 grit paper just so there wouldn’t be too much sanding after it was finished. This is after one big sanding.

 

 

 

Then two big standings.

 

 

 

 

There’s a couple of things that I messed up by using the 1/16” strip of wood to make the rabbet. I should have maybe taken a 1/16th of an inch off the bulkhead former to compensate for it. The stem should have been made to be level with the top of the planksheer.  The planksheer ends up being 1/8” short along it’s length. Not worried about the planksheer length because they are being remade out of cherry. Got a nice order of cherry from Joe at Modeler’s Sawmill.

 

 

 

 

Also added some 3/32 x 3/32 pieces of basswood strip between the bulkheads to help with the gluing of the planksheer. Next is making lots of square holes for the stanchions. See you next time.

[Seventynet]

Very nice planking job Paul! 

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Ian, thank you very much. This boat is a lot of fun.

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Everyone, thank you very much for your wonderful comments and likes. At the end of the last post I had just started making new planksheers out of cherry. The kit supplied planksheer was cut into three pieces and used as a template. A piece of cherry was added to the top of the stem to bring it up to the correct height.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pieces of scrap 1/16” x 1/4” strips were glued to the planhsheer between the bulkheads to support  the 1/32” basswood sub deck. I had enough basswood sheet to do part of the sub deck so I installed a bit at both ends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

While waiting for more basswood the floor and the walls of the cockpit where made. Glued strips of wood together for the floor and used a template to get the proper dimensions. I was looking at shipphotographer’s  excellent Glad Tidings build log and Bob Cleek noted that normally these vessels would have two drains in the cockpit as opposed to one so that’s what I went with.

 

 

 

The strips of wood on the port and starboard walls were installed individually because of the angle. The other walls were made the same way as the floor.

 

 

 

 

Got some more 1/32” sheet and continued with the sub deck. And of course had to install some planking just to break things up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next come the hatches. Hope to see you next time.

 

Edited October 1, 2022 by Paul Le Wol

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Everyone, thank you for dropping by and for the Likes. They are very appreciated. Before starting the deck and furnishings I decided to make a new rudder out of AYCedar using the kit supplied rudder as a template. The pieces of 1/8” x 1/8” strip have holes drilled in them for the pintle pins so that the pintles are integrated into the rudder. The pintle straps will be applied later. The gudgeon straps are made from left over laser board.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The iron bar pinned to the stem is blackened 3/32” brass strip.

 

 

Now it’s time to make the hatches. The frames are made from 3/16” x 1/16” cherry. I’m roughly using examples found in Chapelle’s book American Fishing Schooners. A piece of 1/16” basswood sheet is used to support the covers and it is supported by 1/8” x 1/8” strips. The covers are glued together, squared, and a line is scored down the center to suggest that there are two halves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The strap that holds down the covers is supposed to have a hinged hasp at one end. Both ends fit over a staple. The bar should be slotted where it fits over the staple but I just drilled two holes so that the staple would hold the bar in place. No glue is used to hold down the bar. The iron bars that run down both sides of the frame are made from Cedar strip sanded down to .5mm . They look thicker but that’s as thin as I could get it. Did not want to try and glue brass strip along there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then a bit more planking was applied to the deck and sanded around the cockpit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The cabin and more deck planking will be next. See you next time 

 

Edited October 14, 2022 by Paul Le Wol

[SkiBee]

Fantastic work, love your detailed work!!!!

[Paul Le Wol]

Thank you SkiBee, I appreciate your comment very much.

[hamilton]

Wow - she's looking really great - nice modifications to the kit superstructures and such nice clean work on the planking! Beautiful to behold

hamilton

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi hamilton, thank you so much. I’ve seen a couple of pinky builds online where they stray from the plans and although the Glad Tidings hull doesn’t really look like any of the work boats in Chapelle’s book, I think it can still be passed off as a fishing boat 🙂

[Paul Le Wol]

Hey Everyone, first and foremost  many thanks to all of you for your comments and Likes. The cabin is finished and the deck has been laid. The cabin was made pretty well the same way as the hatches. The walls are 1/16”cherry and the roof is 3/64” AYC. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of the kit supplied cabin roof beams was used to support the roof planks. Two straight planks were laid down the center of the roof and the remaining planks were tapered. Well except for the outer two planks which will have to be sanded back to the proper amount of overhang..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a good sanding the companionway roof slides were attached. Holes for the port lights were made. I had a couple of Billings plastic port lights laying around which I think look good so they were used. Mod Podge “ Dimensional Magic “ was used to glaze them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then the deck planking was started. The plans and directions say that no nibbling was used and that the planks should be “feathered “ into the planksheer.

Here are the photos just showing the progression of the planking.  The deck was given a coat of wipe on poly.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next will be the stanchions and knees. Hope to see you next time.

 

 

[No Idea]

Such lovely clean work it looks amazing!

[Paul Le Wol]

Thank you No Idea, you are very kind.

[Mirabell61]

very nice build Paul,

Are you going to rigg sails as well ?

 

Nils

[Dsmith20639]

really nice work

 

Don

[Paul Le Wol]

Don and Nils , thank you very much. Nils, one day I would like to try my hand at sails but I don’t think I’m ready for the challenge just yet. You both did such a nice job with your sails

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Everyone, thank you for all of your wonderful comments and Likes. I thought that I should do an update because there’s  getting to be too many pictures. A new long knee, main sheet horse and tombstone where made out of cherry.

 

 

 

The plans say to make the tiller comb out of two pieces of brass but wood seemed to be an easier option for me . The curve of the deck and the curve of the comb make it a complex piece. (for me). The main sheet cleats in the cockpit are 9mm pear made by Master Korabel. It takes a bit to remove the laser char but they turn out nice.
 

 

 

 

The windlass wasn’t wide enough to fit to the the bits so the connecting rod is going to be replaced with a longer brass rod. The bits were temporarily mounted so that a 5/16” pieced of wood could be pinned where the bowsprit will sit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then came the mounting of the stanchions. It was a long process so while waiting for each batch to dry the jib  sheet horse was made and installed 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The bulwark strakes are made out of 1/16” x 5/16” cherry ripped to 5/32”. The wide and thick planks were not very cooperative.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A jig was made to support the tombstone in position. It kind of just sits out there flapping in the breeze. Next will be finishing the bulwark strakes running from midship to the tombstone. Hope to see you all next time.