On Hold - Nakajima Type KO 3 by CDW - Answer - 1:33 Scale - CARD

[CDW]

It’s time to get my feet wet with card modeling. I’ve seen enough to believe a beautiful model can be built from card, but it’s going to take time, practice, and patience. I hope I have chosen a kit that will not be overly difficult for my first try but challenging enough to keep my interest. Hopefully my first try will not be relegated to the waste bin before I finish it. If you have any words of advice or criticism, please by all means pass them on. I’ll need all the help I can get.

 

Edited October 19, 2022 by CDW

[Egilman]

The Japanese Nieuport... Excellent choice!!!

 

Enough technicals to get your blood up and enough detail to be proud of when finished...

 

I'm in brother...

[ccoyle]

Good luck, Craig! I'll be following along with interest.

[Edwardkenway]

Looks like it'll make a nice plane, Craig. I'm in!

[Jack12477]

I'm in ! 

[CDW]

All I accomplished so far is to: a) separate the pages by removing the staple that held them together, and: b) scan the instructions then tried many times to convert them so as to translate

I have wasted far too much time with very little success but once I got some success, I learned it was all a long climb for a short slide. The instructions seem to provide very little helpful information. Rather than waste any more time on this, I think I will plod ahead and see what I can do just by looking at the pictures. Doesn't look all that complicated.

[CDW]

Thanks to everyone who is following along...I can use the moral support. 😅

[ccoyle]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

The instructions seem to provide very little helpful information.

 

Yeah, card model instructions tend not to be much more than "glue part a to part b, etc., etc."

[CDW]

8 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

 

Yeah, card model instructions tend not to be much more than "glue part a to part b, etc., etc."

On a different subject: do I recall you saying that you use a spray-can of clear acrylic over top of your printed parts before handling them?

[ccoyle]

Yep, matte clear. One or two light coats.

[CDW]

9 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

Yep, matte clear. One or two light coats.

Any reason I should not use Vallejo or other matt clear acrylic through my airbrush? 

[CDW]

So I gave the color printed parts two light coats of matt clear acrylic, only I used the airbrush and what I had on hand rather then find and buy a spray can. Seemed to work just fine as far as I can tell.

Tomorrow, I intend on pasting the printed bulkhead, wing airfoil ribs, fuselage formers, and maybe a few other parts to some 1mm (or close to 1mm) card stock then cut them out when the glue is dry. Probably somewhere in those instructions they recommend what size card and which printed parts need to be glued to card to stiffen them up, but I can't find it. A lot of what I translate using online tools seems to come out as gibberish and otherwise not helpful information. It would have been nice if laser cut frames had been available for this kit then a lot of guess work would not be needed but maybe it will teach me some things in the long run by doing it myself.

[ccoyle]

8 hours ago, CDW said:

It would have been nice if laser cut frames had been available for this kit

 

http://www.answer.pl/en/laser-cut-components-for-aircraft/1955-nakajima-type-ko-3-laser-cut-frames.html?search_query=ko-3&results=255

 

Most publishers use some variation of the following code for laminating parts:

** = 1.0 mm card

*   = 0.5 mm card

+   = plain card stock (i.e. the part gets doubled)

 

You can verify the thickness of your laminated parts by using calipers and comparing that measurement to the width of any slots that the parts must fit into.

[CDW]

1 hour ago, ccoyle said:

 

http://www.answer.pl/en/laser-cut-components-for-aircraft/1955-nakajima-type-ko-3-laser-cut-frames.html?search_query=ko-3&results=255

 

Most publishers use some variation of the following code for laminating parts:

** = 1.0 mm card

*   = 0.5 mm card

+   = plain card stock (i.e. the part gets doubled)

 

You can verify the thickness of your laminated parts by using calipers and comparing that measurement to the width of any slots that the parts must fit into.

 Valuable information. Thanks Chris

[CDW]

Amazing. I just learned how easy it is to translate Polish text to English text using my iPhone.

Take a photo of the text then open it in the photo application. Hold your finger down on the text and a couple of special ‘begin and end’ icons will appear. Drag these icons to the portion of text where you want to begin and end the translation. Afterward, an option will appear to translate. It then translates the Polish text to English instantly. Not every word gets translated to an intelligible English word, but more than enough to get the meaning in context.

I should have noted that the first thing I did was to go to the ‘translate’ app and selected Polish to English.

I am learning a thing or two. Who says you can’t teach an old dog new tricks. Remembering it will be another trick. 😀

[Canute]

That's a good tip, Craig. I'm following this one, too. My old squadron flew SPADs in the Great War and maybe I can try to do one.

[CDW]

Just now, ccoyle said:

 

http://www.answer.pl/en/laser-cut-components-for-aircraft/1955-nakajima-type-ko-3-laser-cut-frames.html?search_query=ko-3&results=255

 

Most publishers use some variation of the following code for laminating parts:

** = 1.0 mm card

*   = 0.5 mm card

+   = plain card stock (i.e. the part gets doubled)

 

You can verify the thickness of your laminated parts by using calipers and comparing that measurement to the width of any slots that the parts must fit into.

For this first build, I am going to cut my own frames. My calipers will be my best friend. Thanks for pointing this out as it would seem obvious, but the idea escaped me until you mentioned it.

[CDW]

Just now, Canute said:

That's a good tip, Craig. I'm following this one, too. My old squadron flew SPADs in the Great War and maybe I can try to do one.

A SPAD would be excellent! Love those planes.

[CDW]

Following is a translation of the instructions from Polish to English as rendered by my iPhone:

 

“Japanese hunter man

Nakajima Type KO 3

Nieuport aircraft - history:

Nieuport 10 was the first woisk aircraft of the Nieuport brothers company.

Later, the company produced aircraft also for racing purposes, but in time-sle wonvey. usma produced aircraft main constructions for combat. The combination of plata gornedo 2 doliayowdho use a temporary wicrow with a ukiad in the shape of the letter Powierzohnia dolny plata was much smaller than the upper one (the difference in other awuptatowce was present). the plane teo tvou was called sesquiplan, or "pottora Wewcachthere was a mnesza), the aircraft of this yp was fortified versions. with a bruise 81 kW, which was marked as Nieuport 16.

Nieuport 17 was created in Nieuporta 16, but structurally it did not differ much from its predecessors. Introduced iedvnie aerodynamic engine housings ora7 - what zanewne warniere. machine gun svachronizer. Thanks to this, you could move the rifle from the görny plata near the pilot. Some aircraft were equipped with Le Prieur rockets, designed to combat balloons. Such rockets made it possible to destroy the balloon in such a way that its wvbuch would not damage the attacking plane

Rockets were placed 4 each on plata's gniers

Nieuport aircraft, despite their advantages, were not devoid of flaws either. The bottom plate would be attached to the tvlko tvlko big point. which was very maio Gowne. Wonocowan, oo cacaos sriskrecalace simply tore the bottom plate from the fitting. Praktvcanie it» in Nieuvorcle 17 this system reached the peak of its capabilities, but this did not prevent Gustaw Delage from designing another model -

Nieuport 24. This aircraft had onlywowv kad‹ub, a more convex wing profile and

Changed shape of ailerons. The skrzvdel cranes were also reinforced to prevent at least the careful stagnation of the póttoraplata system, and a second Vickers machine gun was added. Masha; on the outside it had very similar dimensions to Nieuport 17. In February and March 1917, the preshedi aircraft tested and despite not very satisfactory results it was assigned to the production of seryin. Problems with the new glitch have arisen, so the assembly of the previous model began in Nieuporty 24 classic tail - Nieuporta

17, and the new model was called Nieuport 24 bis.

The last version of the semi-toraplata by) Nieuport 27 aircraft. From its predecessor, pink-

Only a split chassis axis and unprofiled vtoza are threaded. Tests were also carried out with other propulsions (Clerget 11E 200 hp, and Clerget 8Bd) to improve the achievements. However, not much has changed. and iedvny eqcopy of this type (Nieuport 25) za-ratwit to the Charles Nungesser front alloy.

In total, about 7200 copies of all Nieuportow were produced -

From 10 to 27.

Technical data:

Engine:

Le Rhone 9Jb (120 KM)

Spread::

8.21 m

Length::

0.4 m

Height:

2.4 m

Supporting area: 15.00 m

General notes:

The model is medium difficult to build. Before gluing it should be

Carefully read the general plan of the model and assembly drawings. Parts marked with an asterisk / and elements of a skeleton from 3 sheets / should be glued cardboard 1.0 mm thick. Parts marked with the letter P /right side/ should be glued like L /old side/. Possible allowances belong to the grinder with fine abrasive paper. White-re edge should be retouched with the appropriately selected color of paints / we recommend taking a silver marker available in stationery stores /. The model should be varnished with clear varnish after gluing. We use the principle of fitting part "dry"

T. try it on twice - glues once.

Model construction:

We start construction by gluing the truss of the A3-A6 part of the cadlub.

We can make pulls from threads according to the drawing. From the top we glue part of the A11.

Soon on sale

AIRCO DH.9!!!

A19to wregiA9.

We make the bottom of the upper wing from part 10b.

зАтур01. 52kioret окк рату колтемут с 2.10 u la done oz. 9, skrysto sone 0 0)

Doke)ау до кавива (any agrontan, 161 160 С21080 0 в ату 0 . кого онисти,

Ora2 strip. Nasteprig doK/olamy shots to skrayde doltych. We then glue the upper wing to the zasiza / 04 g.

Z. oze6ci 17 we glue the pyons. 77 /kaciuba wed une/rza skrzydia oónego wash tubkit we glue from the diwbch pages 02 W%. 2/asteenie 2. 20 po uKe.talowanna.

We stick to the bottom of the chassis. Zastrzaly, pod we a 07 21 3122 shaped, skieanyda. zem and for glue to the chassis.- Rod waste nik unres 20zang u kadluba. Kola wonde. we according to the drawing from oze, 601 24., and nokseamy do tyia kaarus aa os l chassis. 2 czeso 29 we make tail ploze and doKleja do yu kadiuba. We glue the element 25 poodle r to the A1 bar. We glue the engine cze56 26 1 27 according to drawings E. Menty parts 27i and 27h are made of wire.

We glue the cyanosis part 26f to the A1 part, and then embed it on non-

Paint. We glue the finished covered to the cadlub.

Sinlik. Elements of the engine cover c796% 238 are skidded to the junction, inneir we paint silver Elements 33-35 after forming we glue to the rifle. From part 30 skie.-we wash the windbreak and glue it to the cadlub. Then we make links of functions of the Control according to the summary drawings. The whole model can be varnished by a-

Colorless direction.

In the model it is recommended to use cardboard and cardboard

Laser cut elements out

/Including skeleton/, available for sale

Shipping at the Publisher and in the Paper-Hobby store!

We have fun! We have fun!

Publisher

Editor-in-chief of Tukasz Wawo¿ny

Proiekt model

Krzysztof Fiolek

Illustrations on the cover

Seweryn Fleischer

P.PU.H.W. "Answer"

Reductiveine model

Post office.s. 70th 32-300 Olkusz

Predestined dia adults.

The editors do not bear

Tel. 0-605 913 184

Responsibility of responsibility

Fax 0-32 754 46 40

For advertising and advertising training.

E-mail: biuro@answer.pl

Printing: Printing house

Www.answer.pl

Answer Publishing House

All rights reserved. Reprinting and copying only with the consent of the Publisher.

All rights reserved.

Retail sale at cente lower) than printed on the cover clearly with the consent of Wvdawe

For the model you can buy a set of laser-cut elements price 9.99 zi”

 

I am going slowly with this build, primarily looking over the parts and plans numerous times to familiarize myself with the designer’s intentions.

As Chris said earlier, the instructions confirm that parts marked with an asterisk are to be bonded to 1mm card. Am I to assume parts not marked go on as-is, such as the skins?

[ccoyle]

5 minutes ago, CDW said:

Am I to assume parts not marked go on as-is, such as the skins?

 

Yes.

 

Quote

 

Proiekt model

Krzysztof Fiolek

 

 

This is the gentleman who designed Answer's Fiat CR.42 kit that I built about twelve years ago.

 

[CDW]

5 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

 

Yes.

 

 

This is the gentleman who designed Answer's Fiat CR.42 kit that I built about twelve years ago.

 

Thanks Chris.

All I have on hand for 1mm card is a brownish-tan material. Knowing I will need to touch up some edges with silver, would I be better off finding some white 1mm card? I am concerned that silver over the brown-tan color of my 1mm card is going to look funky. Am I overthinking this? Will it matter brown or white?

[CDW]

If you look at the attached photo, you will see on the left-hand side of the image an area marked off by a dashed line. Within this area are the frames, the wheels/tires, a shaft piece that mounts the radial engine to the firewall (26f), and another pair of parts I cannot yet identify (11a).

I know the instructions require the frame pieces to be bonded to 1mm card, but does the fact the other parts previously described fall within the dashed lines indicate these parts should be bonded to 1mm card as well? I don’t see anything that gives clarity to this question.

[ccoyle]

57 minutes ago, CDW said:

I am concerned that silver over the brown-tan color of my 1mm card is going to look funky.

 

You can always test a piece. It's also possible to laminate thicker card from regular card stock using spray adhesive. I find that card laminated in this manner is easier to cut than chipboard. Chipboard dulls #11 blades like nobody's business.

[ccoyle]

12 minutes ago, CDW said:

I don’t see anything that gives clarity to this question.

 

I think the dashed line is just a border to separate the parts from the diagrams.

 

[CDW]

22 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

 

You can always test a piece. It's also possible to laminate thicker card from regular card stock using spray adhesive. I find that card laminated in this manner is easier to cut than chipboard. Chipboard dulls #11 blades like nobody's business.

For this 1st model, I will forge ahead with the chipboard but in the future, will find some proper 1mm white card if I can. Otherwise will laminate as you described. I can see where the chipboard will be a bear to cut.

13 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

 

I think the dashed line is just a border to separate the parts from the diagrams.

 

I agree. Will try to find a pair of appropriate size o rings for the tires.

[Egilman]

4 hours ago, CDW said:

Following is a translation of the instructions from Polish to English as rendered by my iPhone:

If that makes sense to you, your reading skills are a lot better than mine....

[CDW]

36 minutes ago, Egilman said:

If that makes sense to you, your reading skills are a lot better than mine....

Lol 😂

It’s enough to get by as long as you’re following the diagrams as you read it. It’s like hearing someone speak broken English. 😀

[CDW]

The company that publishes this kit, Answer, offers a laser cut frame package for less than $2. The cost/charge to ship that $2 item is over $30. I passed on it. 

 

[ccoyle]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

The company that publishes this kit, Answer, offers a laser cut frame package for less than $2. The cost/charge to ship that $2 item is over $30. I passed on it. 

 

The key to buying direct from Poland is to find where the cutoff is for minimum shipping. I find that I can usually squeeze in 2-3 kits and their laser-cut frames before the shipping goes up to the next tier. You have to really WANT those 2-3 kits in order to justify the cost! 😬  Among Polish publishers, WAK generally has the lowest shipping costs.

 

EDIT: Here's a screen capture of my WAK shopping cart (wish list only -- ain't pulling the trigger!). The cart contains three kits, four sets of laser-cut frames, and a canopy. Note the shipping.

 

[CDW]

59 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

 

The key to buying direct from Poland is to find where the cutoff is for minimum shipping. I find that I can usually squeeze in 2-3 kits and their laser-cut frames before the shipping goes up to the next tier. You have to really WANT those 2-3 kits in order to justify the cost! 😬  Among Polish publishers, WAK generally has the lowest shipping costs.

 

EDIT: Here's a screen capture of my WAK shopping cart (wish list only -- ain't pulling the trigger!). The cart contains three kits, four sets of laser-cut frames, and a canopy. Note the shipping.

 

Wow, big savings there. The orders I put in with GPM had what I felt were reasonable shipping charges. I'll play around with the Answer site to see what happens with more items added to the cart.