On Hold - Nakajima Type KO 3 by CDW - Answer - 1:33 Scale - CARD

[Old Collingwood]

Your a braver man than me  Craig   - I think its a  Magician art form  what  paper  modellers  do.

 

OC.

[CDW]

Just now, Old Collingwood said:

Your a braver man than me  Craig   - I think its a  Magician art form  what  paper  modellers  do.

 

OC.

Let's see how this first one goes. I can already see there is a lot to learn. One lesson learned is to buy a kit package that includes laser cut frames. Cutting the frames is tedious to say the least. My kit has some small airfoil ribs that are going to take some magic to cut without obliterating them.

Edited October 7, 2022 by CDW

[king derelict]

48 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Your a braver man than me  Craig   - I think its a  Magician art form  what  paper  modellers  do.

 

OC.

I'm with you OC. These models are way over the horizon of my limitations

Alan

[Javlin]

I expect to see this build completed by tomorrow Craig it took this guy all of 6:29m/s to get his in the air.By the way I think this is Chris's way of building he thinks about it.

 

 

[CDW]

7 hours ago, Javlin said:

I expect to see this build completed by tomorrow Craig it took this guy all of 6:29m/s to get his in the air.By the way I think this is Chris's way of building he thinks about it.

 

 

I can guarantee that ain’t happening. But that guy made it look so easy.😀 And it flies? Sheesh. He’s rubbing it in now. Mine might fly into the trash can before it’s all said and done, that I can say with some level of confidence. 🥸

[CDW]

Do you guys remember Danny, the card modeler/moderator from Australia? His work was phenomenal and what first drew my attention to what was possible with card modeling. He and Chris are guys that that have inspired me to at least give this medium a try. I’ll have fun even if I screw it up. I’ll chalk it up as a learning experience.

[CDW]

After getting a late start on my model, immediately began to realize the start I made needed alteration and improvising. I did not realize at first the designer intended the white areas between the brown colored framework was intended to be cut out, leaving only a framework of approximately 1/16th inch all around. Since I had bonded the printed card to 1mm chipboard this was going to require much cutting I was not prepared to do. As Chris warned me, my 1 mm chipboard is difficult to cut and for me in particular, difficult to maintain a straight cut without butchering it. So I decided to build my 1/16 framework from 1/16 inch balsa stock I had on hand. 
My photo shows the balsa framework in progress as I glue it together over the printed parts and pin it down to keep its shape until dry. This is a common technique for building balsa model airplanes as many of you probably know. I think it will turn out much neater this way. 

[Canute]

Good save. Those old WW I aircraft were powered box kites.😉

[CDW]

The printed parts in the photo are marked in the booklet with an asterisk, signifying they are to be pasted to a 1mm card before assembly. The structure I built from balsa is what these parts should look like after assembly. Trouble is, you won’t get that if assembled that way. The horizontal pieces would be double the desired thickness and then the skins wouldn’t fit. Nowhere in the instructions give the modeler this heads-up. The only way to discover it is by careful examination of all the parts in the assembly, multiple steps ahead. It’s sorta like playing chess. I can see why few modelers choose this medium, but maybe this kit is just an anomaly. I really don’t know since it’s my first card model.

 

[king derelict]

On 10/8/2022 at 7:31 AM, CDW said:

Do you guys remember Danny, the card modeler/moderator from Australia? His work was phenomenal and what first drew my attention to what was possible with card modeling. He and Chris are guys that that have inspired me to at least give this medium a try. I’ll have fun even if I screw it up. I’ll chalk it up as a learning experience.

Yes I remember. Another great card modeller. There was a (Czech) lady who built beautiful card ships too I think. All spectacular masters of the art

Alan

[CDW]

9 minutes ago, king derelict said:

Yes I remember. Another great card modeller. There was a (Czech) lady who built beautiful card ships too I think. All spectacular masters of the art

Alan

Yes, that’s right! I forgot about her (how could I?). She built incredibly detailed card model ships. Doris was her name maybe?

[Jack12477]

8 minutes ago, CDW said:

Doris was her name maybe

Yes, Doris lives in the Czech Republic. Her husband died just before she completed her last build, she finished it as a tribute to him.  Outstanding artistry. 

Edited October 9, 2022 by Jack12477

[ccoyle]

It just occurred to me that your framing might be too thick, since 1mm = 1/25.4 in.

[CDW]

12 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

It just occurred to me that your framing might be too thick, since 1mm = 1/25.4 in.

I kept the outer limits of the framing consistent with the printed parts so it shouldn’t make a difference. Yeah I knew they were a tad too wide/tall

[king derelict]

6 hours ago, CDW said:

Yes, that’s right! I forgot about her (how could I?). She built incredibly detailed card model ships. Doris was her name maybe?

That's it Doris. A pure artist with those ships

I look at her stuff and I feel like the kid at the back of art class eating the paste

Alan

[CDW]

Slow going, this is where I am in the process. It should go a little faster until I get to the part where I need to cut all the wing and stabilizer ribs/spars. Oh yeah, the radial engine looks like a lot of fun, too. 
 

[CDW]

I found that rolling the little pieces into tubes was tricky. I ended up saving what’s left of my sanity by substituting plastruct rod.

[Edwardkenway]

The tiny tubes are also my nemesis, and swapped them for either brass or toothpicks. 

The framework looks very nice!

[CDW]

3 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

The tiny tubes are also my nemesis, and swapped them for either brass or toothpicks. 

The framework looks very nice!

I don’t have the folding technique mastered yet. The rolling technique, not even close. Mine look like a roll/fold hybrid mess. Getting the roll started seems to be the trick.

[CDW]

I watched a video where a card modeler was using a scoring tool to mark the card in the locations where folds are to be made. The scoring enables a smooth clean fold. The tool was similar to an empty ball point pen. It has caught my interest and I will try it later on parts that need folding to see how it works.

[ccoyle]

Yep, scoring is essential. A variety of tools can do the job. I used a scribing tool for years, but it was actually a bit too sharply pointed for the job. These days I'm using a manicurist's dotting tool, believe it or not. They have round tips and come in a variety of sizes. Cheap, too. The set seen below is available from Amazon for $4.98.

 

 

Rolling tubes is always a challenge. Some tips to try out:

1. Can replace with styrene rod.
2. Dampen slightly before rolling.
3. Roll around tube-shaped objects, e.g. pencils, paint brush handles, metal or styrene rod. Start with a larger-diameter object, then move to smaller ones.

 

[CDW]

Just now, ccoyle said:

Yep, scoring is essential. A variety of tools can do the job. I used a scribing tool for years, but it was actually a bit too sharply pointed for the job. These days I'm using a manicurist's dotting tool, believe it or not. They have round tips and come in a variety of sizes. Cheap, too. The set seen below is available from Amazon for $4.98.

 

 

Rolling tubes is always a challenge. Some tips to try out:

1. Can replace with styrene rod.
2. Dampen slightly before rolling.
3. Roll around tube-shaped objects, e.g. pencils, paint brush handles, metal or styrene rod. Start with a larger-diameter object, then move to smaller ones.

 

Thanks Chris.

Does it make a difference which side of the card you score? Intuition tells me to score the side where the fold goes up, regardless of if it's printed or blank.

[ccoyle]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

Does it make a difference which side of the card you score? Intuition tells me to score the side where the fold goes up, regardless of if it's printed or blank.

 

Most of the time, the scoring is done on the printed side. Many kits include different lines (e.g. solid vs dashed) to distinguish between scoring the front or back of a printed part. A fold does create a slight buckle on the side opposite the scoring, so there are instances where scoring the back is helpful even if it's the front that's indicated as the side to be scored.

[CDW]

Just now, ccoyle said:

 

Most of the time, the scoring is done on the printed side. Many kits include different lines (e.g. solid vs dashed) to distinguish between scoring the front or back of a printed part. A fold does create a slight buckle on the side opposite the scoring, so there are instances where scoring the back is helpful even if it's the front that's indicated as the side to be scored.

Thanks again. Did not know about the dashed vs solid fold lines although I have seen both on my kit.

[CDW]

After I saw the photo Chris posted, I started to recall that I had bought a set of those tools some years back, Probably after reading where Danny was using them. I found them stashed away. 🤓

Edited October 11, 2022 by CDW

[Egilman]

I keep those right next to my Dapping set... they are perfect for creating fold lines as I'm sure you know, but they are also good for creating bumps in thin plastic (rivets) curls in softened plastic (overlapping edges) and many other miniature special effects....

[Old Collingwood]

Thats  some  fine work you are doing there  Craig.

 

OC.

[CDW]

21 minutes ago, Egilman said:

I keep those right next to my Dapping set... they are perfect for creating fold lines as I'm sure you know, but they are also good for creating bumps in thin plastic (rivets) curls in softened plastic (overlapping edges) and many other miniature special effects....

I remember now that I bought these when first considering card modeling years ago. I have never used them before but will now have a reason. How often do you use the dapping set and what do you use them for?

[CDW]

3 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Thats  some  fine work you are doing there  Craig.

 

OC.

Thanks OC, but it's some very basic stuff and not up to a standard I will be happy with. I have a lot to learn to begin mastering this aspect of the hobby. One thing I know for sure: at this time, I will refuse to buy a card model unless there is also a laser cut frame set available for purchase at the same time. Cutting these parts out is a pain, but cutting thick card is much worse.

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

How often do you use the dapping set and what do you use them for?

Creating compound curved panels...