On Hold - Nakajima Type KO 3 by CDW - Answer - 1:33 Scale - CARD

[CDW]

Is this typical of card model plans and instructions?

In the following photos, the diagrams illustrate a throttle assembly located on the port side of the cockpit, however the illustrations are vague and do not give detail part numbers or any detail sufficient  for the modeler recreate this assembly. I can guess and probably get close, but I can foresee this sort of lack of detail could become a problem with more complex assemblies.

 

I found what appear to be the parts for the throttle assembly on the printed parts page. How the heck do you sort out this kind of situation? It’s not apparent to me what the folds are intended to be or exactly how to cut out the parts. I am going to “wing it”. Kentucky windage.

I have added a few more parts to the assembly. Last thing added are the rudder controls.

 

[Egilman]

Hey brother, the folds are along the color division, the black box folds to the back side of the part, glued, then cut out from the front side... This colors the back of the part....

 

All of them with attached black boxes are fold in half and glue before cutting the part out....

 

A18a thru A18d, (both of them) The A18d with the box is foldable the one without isn't....

[ccoyle]

21 hours ago, CDW said:

How often do you use the dapping set and what do you use them for?

 

Quite often, actually. Forming rounded parts is one obvious use, but it is also useful for creating neat petal joints (if you haven't done a petal yet, rejoice!) and rounding the open ends of tubes, plus the variety of handle diameters is great for rolling larger diameter tubes, like fuselage sections.

[CDW]

58 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Hey brother, the folds are along the color division, the black box folds to the back side of the part, glued, then cut out from the front side... This colors the back of the part....

 

All of them with attached black boxes are fold in half and glue before cutting the part out....

 

A18a thru A18d, (both of them) The A18d with the box is foldable the one without isn't....

That makes sense but it wasn’t intuitive to me. Thanks for pointing it out. Maybe once I’ve seen this sort of thing a time or two it will become more obvious. Two sets of eyeballs are better than one. 

[Javlin]

I like the looks thus far Craig.

[CDW]

On 10/13/2022 at 6:23 AM, Javlin said:

I like the looks thus far Craig.

Thanks Jav

[CDW]

Thanks to EG, got the throttle assembly sorted out and installed. Almost ready to put on the inner skins, then the outer skins will follow. Going to find out soon what building the engine is going to be like. Quite a few small pieces per cylinder. 
 

[king derelict]

You are doing a great job Craig but I have to say I am not tempted on this one. I know my limitations too well.

Alan

[Old Collingwood]

Really nice work Craig.

 

OC.

[CDW]

Just now, king derelict said:

You are doing a great job Craig but I have to say I am not tempted on this one. I know my limitations too well.

Alan

 

Just now, Old Collingwood said:

Really nice work Craig.

 

OC.

Thanks for the encouraging words. I feel all thumbs on this, but it's something new. I am beginning to see where a few new tools could come in handy, like a small dapping set. Also, I need to work out a tool similar to something I used when doing auto body work. It's used to create an offset lip where new sheet metal can be welded on to old sheet metal so as not to cause a raised edge. Maybe that's an adaptation of the dapping tool, although they are round on the ends? 

[Egilman]

2 hours ago, CDW said:

Also, I need to work out a tool similar to something I used when doing auto body work. It's used to create an offset lip where new sheet metal can be welded on to old sheet metal so as not to cause a raised edge. Maybe that's an adaptation of the dapping tool, although they are round on the ends? 

It's called a step block, and the last time I saw one was 15 years ago... it looks like a block with a set of steps carved into it... has small round rods to set the Z shape for overlapping...

 

In paper modeling they do the same thing in an easier way, you cut a backing strip and glue it to the joining edge of the part with half of it exposed, then glue the next part to the strip butting the edge of the other part for a smooth surface... It's easier and faster than trying to roll form a joining step in a part.... If it goes over a frame you adjust the frame to account for it...

 

I made great use of the technique when doing sheetmetal models in the Boeing model shop, the only way to make a smooth joint that follows a contour....

[Egilman]

3 hours ago, CDW said:

Almost ready to put on the inner skins, then the outer skins will follow.

Beautiful work Craig, wish I could work in paper that well...

[Canute]

All this card model aircraft building whet my appetite and I pulled the trigger on a Draf Bristol F.2B with laser cut frames in Polish markings. I have a lot of questions, so I'll be firing up a build log soon. Don't want to clog up other builds with basic card modeling questions.

[CDW]

18 minutes ago, Canute said:

All this card model aircraft building whet my appetite and I pulled the trigger on a Draf Bristol F.2B with laser cut frames in Polish markings. I have a lot of questions, so I'll be firing up a build log soon. Don't want to clog up other builds with basic card modeling questions.

Outstanding! I’ll be following along. Love the F.2B. Excellent choice. Where did you acquire your kit and frames? 

[CDW]

The kit plans call for structural wire bracing along the sides and top of the fuselage. Since the top can not be seen once the inner skins are in place, decided to include it only on the sides.

The kit instrument panel needed some trimming relocating and cutting to fit.

Fuselage formers were added and now it’s ready for the inner skins.

 

[ccoyle]

2 hours ago, Canute said:

Draf Bristol F.2B

 

Ken, I would really recommend trying a simpler model, unless you have some prior experience. From what I've seen about that kit, it will not be an easy build, especially with the F.2B's odd lower wing arrangement.

 

For a good first model, I can recommend the free Bartel BM 6a available as a download from CardPlane. The nice thing about free models, of course, is that you can booger as many attempts as you need without having to purchase another kit.

[ccoyle]

Nice work, Craig! I'm crossing my fingers that the skins will fit your improvised framing without too much difficulty.

[CDW]

6 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

Nice work, Craig! I'm crossing my fingers that the skins will fit your improvised framing without too much difficulty.

Thanks Chris. Mine are crossed too. I can’t tell yet but should know soon. 

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, ccoyle said:

Nice work, Craig! I'm crossing my fingers that the skins will fit your improvised framing without too much difficulty.

Oh I have faith, Craig is too experienced a modeler, it's the medium that's the issue, how to get done what needs to be done within the limitations of paper...

 

His work shows that he's got this...

Edited October 15, 2022 by Egilman

[CDW]

Just now, Egilman said:

Oh I have faith, Craig is too experienced a modeler, it's the medium that's the issue, how to get done what needs to be done within the limitations of paper...

 

His work shows that he's got this...

Thanks EG, but I might easily mess this one up. 

After paying a grand total of $16 for this kit including shipping and sales tax, I am not stressing at all if a blunder happens here or there, or even if I need to throw it in the bin. It's a learning experience and there is a lot I am not sure about. It's going to be quite a while before I can turn out a great piece of work in this medium, not the least of which is learning which company/designer produces the most accurate kits. Not to be too critical, but there is a lot about this kit that seems less than optimal IMO, but hey, since it's my first I could be WAY off base. 

[CDW]

This guy right here has helped steer me towards Halinski card kits. As his first card model, he did a very respectable job on this Halinski P-51D Mustang kit. I very much like the way the kit build sequence went down and at how detailed it all was. Beautiful model. I have a few on order now, although not the P-51D. 

 

My First Cardboard Model (Halinski P-51D Mustang) (sympatico.ca)

[Old Collingwood]

Its  coming along really  nicely  Craig,    I think we are all in the same boat   -  our first attempts  at  a  different medium or subject,  can  have its  "unknowns"  and in hindsight  I think we would  all  wish we had  Two  kits  - One to  practice on and iron out any little  hickups  - and the other  to  apply  what we  learned  (well  that  is how I felt  with a  few  of  my  older kits  that  did not go quite as well as  hoped).

 

Keep going mate.

 

OC.

[Canute]

Chris, I would go for the simpler model, but can't get the page translated into English.

 

Craig, got it directly from Draf.

[CDW]

51st reunion of my old football team last night. Lots of laughter, sharing memories, and the type of interaction only a group of old athlete buddies can have.

[Canute]

Fully understand the team concept. Reunions of us old fighter types get that way, too.

[CDW]

I put on the first two skins on the outer fuselage after putting on the inner ones. The fuselage outer skins go on in seven pieces. There is no way in heck I am going to get seamless joins. I used acrylic putty on the first join then touched it up with a silver sharpie marker. Not perfect by any stretch but it will have to do.

Not going to be too much you can see inside that cockpit when it’s all said and done.

[Egilman]

14 minutes ago, CDW said:

Not perfect by any stretch but it will have to do.

Repetition Brother, the more you do it the better it gets... for a first time it's not too bad.... (you should have seen mine) 

[CDW]

9 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Repetition Brother, the more you do it the better it gets... for a first time it's not too bad.... (you should have seen mine) 

I agree about repetition. I also wonder about the design of this particular kit. Something tells me this one is not based on a CAD design. I am sure there are modelers who could build this kit better than I, but I am in no position to make a silk purse from a sows ear at this stage. Looking ahead at the cowl, I see seven or more parts on the printed page that probably make up the finished cowl, but the plans show just one single part number, not two not three and sure as heck not seven. 

[CDW]

Preparing for the third fuselage skin, I have it taped in place to see what kind of shaping is needed for the skin. Behind the cockpit is a raised headrest. The top of the skin needs to conform to the headrest then taper down toward the rudder/vertical stabilizer. Trouble is, no formers are designed as part of the kit to help give shape to this area. When looking at the skin from the rear, a large area is raised above the inner skins all the way back to the vertical stab. Something doesn’t look right to me. But maybe is is right, just don’t know until more skin pieces are added. Insufficient working drawings to give me hints of a proper fit here.

 

[Canute]

I found the link in Chris's PWS-10 log and it was in English. I've downloaded the BM-6a. Will be laminating parts soon.