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On Hold - Nakajima Type KO 3 by CDW - Answer - 1:33 Scale - CARD


CDW

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Something came in the mail today from Poland, it’s the 1:33 GPM F-4E Phantom II card kit with the laser cut frames, a vac canopy and 3D resin printed wheels. Looks like a beautiful kit. Instructions and diagrams appear very well done. Delivered via Polish Priority Mail all for a grand total of $35 USD (175 PLN). Seems like a bargain to me. Kit contains fourteen A4 size color parts pages and four A4 instructions/diagrams pages. Construction appears very straight forward and easy to comprehend on first glance. Time will tell. 😀

 

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Nice, a Clark AB, Philippines jet. Looks like a late model E with the antennas on the spine. Interesting laser cut parts. The spider looking item looks like the AB interior bracing. Will follow along, for sure, Craig.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Now  this  looks interesting  self confessed    "Toon"   nut.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Nice kit... 

 

I'll follow this....  (anywhere any time) Seems like there are lot of Phantom II nuts out there.....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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Only McDonnell would strap two J-79s to a Mack truck and make it supersonic.😁

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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In the mid sixties my dad was a local politician. The general in command at MacDill AFB offered to take dad up in an F4C. Dad turned down the offer because of his fear of flying. It was the only thing I ever knew dad to fear. He earned that fear on a commercial flight over the Gulf of Mexico when flying from Tampa to Mississippi. The plane flew through a violent storm, was struck by lightning, lost an engine, pitched up and down violently. Made an emergency landing in the panhandle for repairs before the flight could resume. On board the flight was the entire University of Tampa football team and coaching staff along with my dad. Dad vowed to never fly again after that episode. 😄

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Ouch. Similar situation over Laos one night. We turned around and went home. Luckily, radio still worked. Airplane sat in the repair shops for a long while. We needed a few extra beers that night.😲

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Looking at this kit, it seemed odd to me that the forward half of the fuselage was built around a fairly substantial framework while the rear half was pretty much built around air, no framework at all. My concerns matured today once I got past that first half of the fuselage and started to proceed to the rear half. There seems to be things involving joint reinforcement and maybe other things the plan doesn’t show that have come to bite me on the backside. Parts fit is poor to sketchy at best. Maybe there are things I can do to remedy the problem but I lack the enthusiasm to generate ideas for a fix. I feel as though there were things I could have foreseen for a greater chance for success at this juncture but at this time I am going to chalk it up as a learning experience and move on. Will put all the pieces in a box and wait to see if I get an epiphany that drives me back to finish this project at a later time. Thanks for following along on this and forgive me for cutting this short in such an abrupt fashion. There are many other projects I want to do and will start another very soon.

 

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You're the superintendent of this project, with the hammer for going or stopping. I get what you're saying. Move on to something that revs your engine instead of losing time delving into the esoterica of this particular card model. We'll follow you.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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I think at one point or another, we've all had to that, Craig.   And many times, we never come back to the project as it's either unsolvable or we just say "to heck with it" and move on to something else.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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There are generally two ways that designers use to join fuselage sections, either joiner strips or butt joins. Which method a kit employs should be apparent from the parts and diagrams. If joiner strips are intended, they will obviously be printed in the kit somewhere, usually right next to their fuselage sections. Sections that are butt joined will have an internal former at each end of the section. From your photos, I'm guessing this kit uses butt joins. Personally, I really dislike butt joins, as there is little to no room for error -- the two ends to be mated must match each other exactly, otherwise a fairly hideous seam will be apparent.

 

Regardless of the outcome of this attempt, you have learned some things about the world of card modeling, both the skills required and the potential pitfalls, and this will make the next build easier to some degree.

 

Cheers!

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix

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Just now, ccoyle said:

There are generally two ways that designers use to join fuselage sections, either joiner strips or butt joins. Which method a kit employs should be apparent from the parts and diagrams. If joiner strips are intended, they will obviously be printed in the kit somewhere, usually right next to their fuselage sections. Sections that are butt joined will have an internal former at each end of the section. From your photos, I'm guessing this kit uses butt joins. Personally, I really dislike butt joins, as there is little to no room for error -- the two ends to be mated must match each other exactly, otherwise a fairly hideous seam will be apparent.

 

Regardless of the outcome of this attempt, you have learned some things about the world of card modeling, both the skills required and the potential pitfalls, and this will make the next build easier to some degree.

 

Cheers!

Indeed Chris. I do feel I have learned quite a bit from this first attempt. In the future, it will be more important to me to actually see the kit and parts breakdown before I buy or attempt it. If there were any joiner strips with my kit, I don't see them. However, experience now tells me there must be some, regardless of whether the kit includes them or not. Thanks for following and providing advice along the way. Much appreciated.

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Been doing a bit of research and homework on card modeling before I make another attempt at it, albeit this kit is toast I do have others waiting on the wings (no pun intended).

One lesson learned is how easy it is to screw up a part or even a whole parts page. What I would like to do is scan my kit then scale it down from 1:33 to 1:48 or 1:72. Question is, what’s the best home printer to use for a good quality color print? Is it a better idea to just have it color printed by a commercial printing service? I don’t think my ink jet printer is up to the task of a good quality print.

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I haven't printed any models in quite some time, but I recall having acceptable results with whatever ink jet printer I had at the time. I also recall that while using the highest DPI setting gave marginally better print quality, it also used considerably more ink.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix

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Just now, ccoyle said:

I haven't printed any models in quite some time, but I recall having acceptable results with whatever ink jet printer I had at the time. I also recall that while using the highest DPI setting gave marginally better print quality, it also used considerably more ink.

Chris

 

I found this fellow's paper modeling channel. Builds some very nice models in 1:72 scale after he scaled them down from 1:33 kits. I like the channel and am learning a lot from watching his videos. 

 

 

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I disassembled my three kit books and took the pages to Office Depot for copies on their laser color printer. I got one full size copy and one half size copy of each book for a grand total cost of $20 after tax. That’s a total of 24 pages on similar paper as the original. 4 of those pages were 11x17. Great quality as well as great price IMO. I won’t be cutting my original books any more from this point forward. Copies only.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been watching a ton of YT videos about paper model building. Very helpful and informative, I think. One of the modelers uses scissors to cut out most of his parts. His models seem to turn out well. Will scissors leave a raised edge, and are there other disadvantages to using scissors instead of a blade to cut out the parts? I have also noticed that several modelers use a spoon to flatten down edges that have been blade-cut.  

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