EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48

[Peter6172]

Well team, I hope I haven't bitten off more that I can chew but I have taken over a full frame model of the EURYALUS in 1:48 scale from a long standing member of this forum; Russell H.

 

Russell unfortunately is not in a position to continue building this model so he has offered it to me to complete.  Russell has already achieved full framing from stem to the fashion pieces and the fitting of transoms and the Stersom Knee.  He has also made a start on fairing inside and out and started laying the first few rows of the ceiling from the keelson.  Port side is full frame, Starboard mostly framed; gaps for viewing internally.  The plan is to fully plank Port side and only partially plank Starboard side (same for the decks.

 

Russell hasn't worked on the model for nearly 2 years so things have settle a little.  First step will be to ensure full frame alignment and secured them before continuing the journey. A little damage has occurred with one Of course this will mean that THUNDERER will be put on the back burner as I will not have the space to build two 1:48 warships concurrently.

 

Time to check out the other EURYALUS builds on the forum.....

[mtaylor]

Peter, this isn't a kit is it?   At least I've not heard of any kits for this ship.   If it's scratch, let me know and I'll move it to the scratch area.

[giampieroricci]

One source of inspiration is surely the splendid Matiz model!...

[gjdale]

Great to see you start the build log for this Peter. I know you will do this build justice.

 

7 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Peter, this isn't a kit is it?   At least I've not heard of any kits for this ship.   If it's scratch, let me know and I'll move it to the scratch area.

 

Mark, I can attest to this being a full scratch build from Alan Yedlinsky’s 2-volume book set. (I assisted with the transfer of the model from Russell to Peter).

Edited December 13, 2022 by gjdale

[mtaylor]

I moved it so should be good to go.

[Peter6172]

1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

I moved it so should be good to go.

Mark.  Wasn't sure whether a set of plans and a wood set constituted a kit or not.

Edited December 14, 2022 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

OK, so I couldn't help myself but get a start on EURYALUS. 

 

Spent this morning cutting out the bow pieces and fitting them together.  All done except for holes and gammoning slot which I will do in the mini mill. this afternoon before mixing some graphite in so wood glue to create the tar lined joints.

 

Used a photocopy template glue to a piece of 14.5" scale cherry, cut with the Dremel scroll saw, cleaned up on the Ozito 3" disk sander then finished by hand with mini chisels, diamond files and finally sandpaper.

 

I know this is held together and to the stem by bolts bit not sure on the positions yet.  Also need to better understand if they used iron or phosphate bronze bolts: more research to do.   I may go the the trouble of using scale bolts with nuts and washers; either steel (for iron) or brass (for bronze) depending n the prototype.

[allanyed]

On 12/12/2022 at 9:55 PM, Peter6172 said:

Time to check out the other EURYALUS builds on the forum.....

I totally agree with Giampiero, the build log from Matiz is awesome.  

 

For other templates, you can try to scan a part on a drawing then print it on label paper rather than using plain paper and glue.  If you are missing any drawings or other information from the books with the transfer from Russell, feel free to PM Wayne or me.

 

Allan

 

 

[druxey]

A great start, Peter!

 

I would caution you against the use of ferrous material in the model; at some point it will corrode. Instead, use brass or copper, chemically colored or blackened. When building what will be a very fine project, consider longevity as well! Also, iron was not used below the waterline.

[Peter6172]

10 hours ago, druxey said:

A great start, Peter!

 

I would caution you against the use of ferrous material in the model; at some point it will corrode. Instead, use brass or copper, chemically colored or blackened. When building what will be a very fine project, consider longevity as well! Also, iron was not used below the waterline.

Interesting .

 

I note that the wooden shipbuilding industry did move to iron/steel bolts for keels and floors at some stage  as noted by the "iron sickness" found in oak on a number of 19th century wooden boat restorations.  

 

In Dodds and Moores book on THUNDERER they state that "iron fastenings were used on all parts of the hull outside planking and lining".  They go on to describe the keel sections being bolted with bolts being driven from above and clenched beneath the keel with; according to Steel "every bolt clenched over a plate set into the keel".  THUNDERER was built tin 1756

 

On another matter, I have not been able to find (yet) any information relating to whether external bolts in keels, stern and stem timbers were "bunged" or whether the nuts/bolts remained open to the sea.  It certainly became common practice in the 19th century.

[Peter6172]

Drilled, slotted, glued, sanded but not yet tapered

[allanyed]

36 minutes ago, Peter6172 said:

sanded but not yet tapered

Thank you for mentioning the need to taper this.  The failure to taper the knee of the head both vertically and fore and aft is one of those things that seems to be prevalent but so easy to fix.   

[Peter6172]

22 hours ago, allanyed said:

Thank you for mentioning the need to taper this.  The failure to taper the knee of the head both vertically and fore and aft is one of those things that seems to be prevalent but so easy to fix.   

If one didn't taper one would have a real problem getting a figurehead mounted....  

[Peter6172]

I have made up some sturdy 5 x 5mm Tasmanian Oak one piece battens to stiffen the sheer of EURYALUS.

 

I then checked heights against the datum with a height gauge and found that some of the cannon port sills are not quite in the right position (pencil line is bottom of the sill).  First photo also shows the fractured joint where the chock between the futtock joins failed (far right frame).  I have also made up a gun port gauge (bottom image near the bow) from Tasmanian back to check the frame space and sill spacing to make sure they are all the same.

 

Unfortunately the port sill is in the right position but I will have to remove the futtock to remove the chock and fit a new one.  It will be delicate surgery as the lower futtock will also need to have the broken chock removed.

 

[Peter6172]

Great news on the Bow Piece.   

 

A little trimming of the gripe and the bow piece fits the drawing like a glove.  A little shim strip on the stem will fill the gap where the stem shape does not quite conform to the drawing.  

Got to be happy with that.

[Peter6172]

Moving things around to see what space I have for ship building.

 

Certainly a little tight but not impossible.  Have levelled up EURYALUS so that she sits level on the building board both fore and aft and athwartship.  The outside sheer batten has been fitted to slot into the rabbet on the stem.  I have started removing spacers/fillers so that I can straighten up the frames so they are vertical and started removing and replacing the gunport sills.   The Gunport between Frames 16 and 18 is drying with the gunport gauge in place,.

 

I have also removed and replaced the broken chock on Frame 22F.  The copper pins are well and truely fitted to I might just rely on the resin glue to hold it in place.

 

Once the framing is completed I can relegate the elevation to another room and free up 2m of bench space.

[Tobias]

Hello here is a link to Rüdiger's Euryalus. I took over his books. I will follow you with great interest.
 

 

http://www.eschker-modellbau.de/HMS-Euryalus-1803

Edited December 17, 2022 by Tobias

[Peter6172]

Well I have cane through and made vertical all the frames on the starboard side.  I just need to replace the gunport sills now but first I need to find the right height of the sills per the plan.  I marked them on the frames and then joined the marks with a batten running the whole length to ensure that the line was fair and aligned with the sheer.  At this point I found that top piece of frame 23F had cracked at the top of the chock; its narrowest point and most likely occurring when I removed the lower gun port sill.  I have chosen to glue and clamp it back in place at this time.  I will review this decision after removing the clamps.

 

The dark pencil line in the images shows the new centreline of the gun port lower sills per the drawing.  I have a few notches to patch up first before cutting the filing in the new notches.  As I understand it, the bird beak lower sill looks to be about 120º and the top sill about 75º.  For simplicity and consistency I plan to do 90º (using a square file) and 60º (using a triangular file) respectively.  I will then mark out the upper deck gun port lower sills, lay a batten to check alignment to the sheer and then file and install these lower sills.   Finally I will mark in the position of the hull mounted blocks, air gaps sills, and sweep positions and file and install the blocks and sills.  Cannot do the main cabin window sills as I haven't built up the rear framework onto of the transoms.   Once I have all the new sills in place I will then move to check the Port side.  

 

As the interior of the frames has already been faired, I will give them a light sand (as there has been some relative movement of the frames) and the make up and install all the deck clamps.  This should stiffen the skeleton enough that I can remove the battens and then 

[Peter6172]

OK, so after engaging with a couple of the more expert members of this forum, I have chosen to remove the sternum knee, transoms, fill frames, stern post and Keelson 6.  This was simplified in that Russel had used PVA and I sprayed the joints with Isopropyl Alcohol..

I can now get the STBD fashion piece vertical.

It appears that the model has rested untouched for several years and with the recent very hot dry summers and cold wet winters there has been much movement I the timbers.  The only way to remedy is to partially dismantle and in some case remake parts (as not all parts came out unscathed).

[gjdale]

Good decision Peter - you won’t regret it.

[Peter6172]

finally have a mobile bench to keep EURYALUS on the move and out of the way when I need more workspace.

[Jaager]

On 12/13/2022 at 9:46 PM, Peter6172 said:

I may go the the trouble of using scale bolts with nuts and washers; either steel (for iron)

Druxey was not referencing not doing a model version of the prototype, for historical reasons.  There have been at least two 18th or 19th or even 20th century models that used iron and that are subjects of recent journal articles.  These articles showed that the iron was gone and the wood around the holes where they were is black.   Our atmosphere contains enough water that when combined with the organic acids in wood works relentlessly oxidize the iron.  "Rusting never sleeps."

 

On 12/18/2022 at 5:59 PM, Peter6172 said:

I need to find the right height of the sills per the plan.  I marked them on the frames and then joined the marks with a batten running the whole length to ensure that the line was fair and aligned with the sheer.

I have decided to place the deck clamps,  then use a jig to determine the top of each sill and the bottom of each lintel.  This way both are sloped to follow the deck camber at each port.  If you intend to plank the topside out and in - an oversize hole in the frames will be hidden.

[Peter6172]

OK, further update.
Examining the rear end of EURYALUS with transom removed gave me a good perspective of the potential issues I might have completing this model.

It is apparent that there has been a good amount of timber movement since the original owner ceased working on the model. It is clear that not only are the frames not now vertical in elevation around the bow and stern of the vessel, the frames are no longer symmetrical around the longitudinal axis.

So, the Plan (pending Russells approval). I will dismantle the complete model frame by frame using Isopropyl Alcohol then clean up all the parts and check them off against the drawings. Those that are correct size and shape (or oversize) will be re-used. Those not the right shape or undersized will be replaced.

Now some might say why not just start over. Well this model was gifted to me by the Russell on the basis that I would complete his model. So I plan to use as many of his parts as possible. This will be like a "Tally Ho" rebuild.

To date I have removed the SternPost, Transoms, Sternsom Knee, Keelson 6, Port Fashion pieces F and A, Port Frame 31A and Port Frame 31F.  I don't wish to dismantle further till Russell gives me the thumbs up.

Will keep you all posted.  In the meantime I continue with BOUNTY, GREYHOUND and NORFOLK.

[Peter6172]

Team,

 

It is with regret that I inform you all of the passing of Russell Hopkinson - original builder of this EURYALUS model.  Russell passed away peacefully in hospital on the 21 December after being admitted following a major stroke.  Russell was suffering from Pancreatic cancer which had metastasised to both his lungs and liver. 

 

Russell was forum member and contributor.  He first started EURYALUS in 2013 with the purchase of the books and then the frame package from HobbyMill.  It's a shame that due to his illness the model sat for such a long period in his shed in the hot dry summers and cold wet winters of Canberra Australia.  This has taken its toll on the cherry timber of the framework.

 

I plan to carefully and completely dismantle EURYALUS to determine how much movement/damage exists, keeping as much of Russells work as possible, then give her a rebirth inside my "climate controlled" apartment.  I fear however that when it comes time to masting her, I may have to move or find another location for her else she will never leave the apartment short of being craned off the balcony.  (make me think that THUNDERER too could be problematic when I get around to her).

 

I will not share any pictures or notes of the disassembly.  I am using Isopropyl Alcohol to dissolve the PVA and then letting the timbers dry thoroughly before cleaning them up and comparing them to the drawings.   I already know a number of frames are going to have to be remade due to breakage or the fact that they have been sanded too thin to be reused.  Also all the knees and keelsons will be remade as Russell had glued and pined them down.

 

I hope to get to the rebuild in about a weeks time.

 

PS:

 

I have found that Russell used about 50% of the framing package.  I have approached HobbyMill EU to replenish the used stock but they do not have any Cherry stock.  Can anyone point me to a good supplier please.

[Tobias]

Hello Peter it is sad to hear such news.
 

As far as wood is concerned, a supplier from Germany would be OK for you, he delivers worldwide and he has cherry. That would be the link.

https://modellbau-holz.jimdo.com/

[Peter6172]

Yes Tobias,  a nice selection but they too do not post to Australia.

[Peter6172]

Well EURYALUS is mostly dismantled. Unfortunately There are only a few frame sections that can be reused as the majority of floors and futtocks were not constructed per the drawings.  The Stem too was undersize and I suspect that copies of drawings made as templates may have not been full sized.   Oh well.

 

I have made a start on the new stem and stern deadwoods.  I realise now that my Dremel attachments are not up to the task for such which stock so I have purchased a portable oscillating spindle sander to assist in the shaping of internal curves.  Happy with what I managed to achieve today.  Once the parts are glued up the apron halves with the deadwood I can then finish the tapering/shaping of the stem pieces and cut in the rabbet.  I still have to taper the bow pieces and fit the apron laminations for the bearding line.

[French Mr Bean]

Good luck ! 😉

[Tobias]

On 12/28/2022 at 12:34 AM, Peter6172 said:

Yes Tobias,  a nice selection but they too do not post to Australia.

Hello Peter, that's a pity to hear, I only read this paragraph.
If you want, I can get in touch with Frank.

We ship our items worldwide from Russia to New Zealand - from England to Canada.

 

[Wintergreen]

Peter, hats off for undertaking such a project!

I would be very reluctant if it was me. There are just so many different aspects of taking over/finishing someone else work.

In fact I was approached one time with the prospect of inherit the work from a friends father, but the hull did not appeal to me at all so I gave it a pass.

The Euryalus volumes sits in my library waiting ... so, in the meantime I'll tag along here. 🙂

Happy new year, mate!