Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)

[druxey]

Line on my home-made ropewalk is less than 5' 0" long - more than enough length for 1:48 scale rigging.

[sheepsail]

Still pretty new to model ship stuff.   Probably be a while before I am ready for any rope.  I have quite a bit of thread left over from sewing projects, including some vintage silk stuff which has no tensile strength left.   does remain useful for embroidery.

 

A few months ago when this subject arose I spent a morning or a better part of a day looking at rope walks.   What lead me to move forward on making model ships is access to a laser engraver. 

 

I for one would love a nice set of easy to cut templates for a laser cut rope walk.   Could probably come up with something based on all the stuff I found online.  Which do include home made designs.

 

Having the tool is not the same as knowing how to use the tool.

 

-julie

 

[Loracs]

"I might possibly release my plans and files for my ropewalk and we could have a group build.  You could make it without a laser cutter.   I could work up a material list and the sources to buy the stuff needed.  Would you guys be interested in that?"

 

I would definitively enjoy that. I already have your ropewalk and enjoy making ropes - in moderation and as needed. I could use a second one (I hate changing the configuration between 3- 4- strands), I was even planning on getting a second one when shortage happen. I can't see doing a build without it. 

 

The first time I made ropes I was a beginner (still a beginner but with a couple builds under my belt - and enough ambition to get me in trouble), and I can attest that your ropewalk and tutorials were great to get me started.  Without YOU, I don't think I would have ever started making my own - and liking it.... so, thumb up for the above. I think that, at heart, you are a mentor and teacher... and enjoying it.

Edited November 6 by Loracs

[Saburo]

I am interested, count me in.

     

         Bill

[Tossedman]

3 hours ago, Saburo said:

I am interested, count me in.

     

         Bill

As am I.

 

Todd

[MikeR]

I would like to try an make rope.  I'm in

MikeR

[Chuck]

Ok let me get this other group going for the capstan first and once I get caught up and running smooth with store again.  
 

Chuck

[Chuck]

As it seems many of you noticed, I opened the store yesterday around 3pm.   Its all going quick...at this pace in another day or two it will be all gone again.

 

I am very thankful as always.   But I wont shut the store down again.  Whenever I get around to restocking the items I will get around to it.   Its just too much....so it will get done eventually.  Sorry in advance for the wait times.   Its gonna be a slog.

 

Chuck

[palmerit]

Yeah, I could imagine that closing when stock runs out could lead to some hoarding behavior. I've been trying to order just what I need for the models I'm working on, and if now it might be 6-8 weeks before my order gets to me, that is something I can certainly be fine with. 

 

I'd love to try to make my own rope. And when I retire in a few years I may have more time to do that for myself. While the other Byrnes products seem to be coming back, I have not heard the same about their rope walk. I looked at the motorized one from the guy in Poland, but it is pretty pricey and overkill for the little I would do. Fingers crossed yours will be coming back in some form.

[Chuck]

6 minutes ago, palmerit said:

I looked at the motorized one from the guy in Poland, but it is pretty pricey and overkill for the little I would do. Fingers crossed yours will be coming back in some form.

You could easily use the Model Shipways ropewalk.  Its flimsy and pricey for what you get but at $50 it will do the trick for just your own model.   My more robust version of a ropewalk will hopefully be back soon and it is also easy to make your own.

 

I used the MS ropewalk for years before I went into the rope making business.   

 

Chuck

[druxey]

And I still use my old electric drill powered Meccano ropewalk!

[Chuck]

9 minutes ago, druxey said:

And I still use my old electric drill powered Meccano ropewalk!

Oh my!!!   That was sure some kind of machine, LOL.   The plans are still out there if you can get parts.  Google it!!!

[Jack12477]

7 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Oh my!!!   That was sure some kind of machine, LOL.   The plans are still out there if you can get parts.  Google it!!!

I just did! Man it looks like it was built from one of those old A C Gilbert Erector Sets I had as a kid 😳 

[druxey]

Don't knock it. It still works fine after all these years!

[Jack12477]

17 minutes ago, druxey said:

Don't knock it. It still works fine after all these years!

Didn’t intend to knock it, @druxey, just surprised to see it was built from an Erector set. BTW I still have my ferris wheel erector set. 

[Chuck]

After a weekend of busy sales...rest assured I should be restocked with blocks by tomorrow afternoon....You guys must be building a lot of ship models. Actually finishing up more 2mm single blocks as I write this.  Then onto rope.

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Those things just look so convincing, amazing!

[Saburo]

Beautiful,

 

Bill

[Chuck]

 

 

Thanks guys for saying.  I am quite happy with the finish and color.

 

Chuck

[Tossedman]

They do look great. Well done Sir!

[Nirvana]

16 hours ago, Chuck said:

 

 

Thanks guys for saying.  I am quite happy with the finish and color.

 

Chuck

And these are 3d resin printed? Holy detail!

 

[Chuck]

New fittings to be available soon.   Available in Boxwood color and a Swiss Pear.

 

Ships wheel...

 

I already have real Boxwood ship's wheel kits and will be keeping those in stock.   I love those. These are just an alternative.   Especially for those who really dont want to assemble 50 pieces and turn the spokes in a dremel.

 

The Darker is good to go right out of the package.  The Boxwood wheel is also great to use as is, but in this instance I wanted to show how it would actually look with a wet on wet wash to accentuate the grooves and details.   It literally took 5 minutes.   Too often I see folks just use this stuff straight away withought working on the appearance further.   It does make a big difference.  Wet down the wheel with your paint brush.  Then working about a third of the wheel at a time while its wet, I applied some acrylic burn umber paint.  The paint was also very very thin, wet, wet wet.  Just brush it on while the wheel is still wet and then switch to a clean brush before it dries.  Just touch the raised areas or the areas you want to remain lighter and it will soak up the very wet darker brown color.  For example all around the outer rim face and the thicker areas of the spokes.   The paint just erases away leaving the lighter color of the raw resin under it.  

 

You can also use weathering powders depending on what makes you feel more comfortable using.  You can also use some wood stains....of your choice, I prefer Old Masters Fruitwood Gel stain.

 

I show this because on certain items the 3d printed objects looks so great right out of the package....blocks for example.  But others need some help so they dont look so perfect and clean making it hard to see the details.  The darker "Pear" color doesnt need any work at all...for whatever reason that finish always looks great right out of the package.   I went just a hair lighter on the darker pear finish for the wheels.   I just thought it needed to be lighter and this is the way they will be sold.   

 

I am working on an eight spoke wheel now as well.   So these will be available in the same sizes as my all boxwood kits.   Basically a 1/4" and 3/16" scale wheel.  And hopefully in both 8 spoke and ten spoke.

[Chuck]

I forgot to add the photo showing what the unweathered 3D printed wheel that is Boxwood color will look like (on the right).   This is how it will look when you get it and you can see how easy it is to just kick it up a notch.    You guys should give it a try.  Just a wet on wet wash of brown or burnt umber changes the appearance quite a bit.  With my rigging blocks I do this for you in mass  (not with acrylic paint).  But because of the complex shape of a ship's wheel I cant really do that....it would just take too long.   So its up to you.

 

[Kusawa2000]

4 hours ago, Chuck said:

I forgot to add the photo showing what the unweathered 3D printed wheel that is Boxwood color will look like (on the right).   This is how it will look when you get it and you can see how easy it is to just kick it up a notch.    You guys should give it a try.  Just a wet on wet wash of brown or burnt umber changes the appearance quite a bit.  With my rigging blocks I do this for you in mass  (not with acrylic paint).  But because of the complex shape of a ship's wheel I cant really do that....it would just take too long.   So its up to you.

 

Chuck: I have been checking out paint shops here in the Yukon and we dont seem to have Old Masters in stock. Minwax seems to have gel stain on the shelf up here in abundance. Any recommendations on a match that would be close to your recommended Old Masters Fruitwood gel stain? I do like the look it gives

 

Mike Draper

[Chuck]

Oh thats great.  I havent tried the Minwax version.  Any warm

brown or will do according to your tastes.  You really have to experiment.  

[Chuck]

I was asked to show the color of the wheel on top of some boxwood.   This is an even better way to see it in its actual environment.   Dont look at the dust.  When you see dust build up on your model like this that means you really need to do more actual model building, LOL.   The wheel on the left is how you will get it and can use it straight out of the bag.  It looks great.  The one on the right has the wet on wet burnt umber wash.   I will have the ten spoke 1/4" scale boxwood version in stock today.  Its 1 1/4" in diameter.

 

Its a very subtle difference dont you think.  Too often I see folks over-do the application of a wash or weathering.  You really just want to give it some tone.

 

Chuck

 

[Ronald-V]

Amazing Chuck! 👌

[RolandR]

I am waiting for the day you start your 3D printer and a week later you pull out a HMS Victory in the 1/48 scale. Just kidding.

Chuck, I love the details that you produce since that was the first thing I noticed when I open my first kit. The small wooden parts don’t look very prototypical. 

[Chuck]

Thank You for saying...Its a labor of love.   I insist on not offering anything for sale that I wouldnt put on one of my own models.

 

Chuck

[glbarlow]

17 hours ago, Chuck said:

Just a wet on wet wash

For those of us that failed art class please explain this😀