HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seventy

Bits and pieces

Lots of bits and pieces to add at this stage, guard stanchions around the hatches, shot to the garlands, and the gun carriages to secure along the hull.

1891

1910

I also decided to repaint and weather the guns, I could still detect those longitudinal striations given certain light and angles.

1902

What fun it is to fit the shot into the garlands. Lively little beggars, pinging around the deck, bouncing down the ladderways never to be seen again, but most certainly heard.

1901

I found using these broad nose plastic tweezers gave me the best success.

 

The stanchions

As with other ‘ironwork’ I prefer to chemically blacken.

1895

I try to ensure that any tabs from the fret are completely removed from the stanchions before this process.

This macro reveals three examples requiring more attention.

 

Gun carriages.

I secured these using 1mm brass wire thro’ the bed and into the deck.

1892

An Archimedean drill is perfect for this job.

1894

At this point the carriages are all secured. I used ca on either end of the wire.

1906

I think a general tidy-up is called for before I move on.

 

B.E.

27/08/2023

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seventy-one

I’m now at the six-month stage of this build, altho’ I’m a fair way behind those of my fellow Indy builders who started around the same time.

A photo set to mark this milestone point.

1912

1915

1918

1916

1917

1919

1920

1923

The gun barrels are only temporarily in place.

1931

1932

 

The heavy construction element has now been completed. There should be a lot less clutter and dust around from this point on.

I am now getting close to the stage of a build that I enjoy best.

 

B.E.

29/08/2023

 

[Nipper]

"The stage of a build I enjoy best" - could this be headworks and sternworks?   I've nearly completed these on my Sphinx and aren't they tricky?!  Like most difficult tasks, it's very satisfying to have achieved them, but apart from painting, shading and highlighting the stern decorations, I didn't enjoy it as much as, say, planking.  The latter was repetitive but I found my skill improving after each plank.

 

Nipper

[Blue Ensign]

It is Nipper, in my opinion they are the trickiest sections that can make or break the look of a model. Always a relief when those two tasks have been completed, hopefully with satisfaction.

 

Post Seventy-two

Quarter deck beams

This section starts with yet another not very exciting task, that of prepping the Qtr deck beams.

These are nicely proportioned Pearwood beams with the necessary camber and containing the slots for the carlings.

These need careful cleaning up as they are heavily charred on the top and bottom surfaces. The danger is that with the camber it would be all too easy to put too much pressure on a beam resulting in breakage.

1936

Soft hands are required for this job, and I use a cambered former to support the beam during cleaning of the top surface.

1935

I begin by scraping, using a scalpel blade to remove the heavy char, it would soon clog a sandpaper.

1938

Fitting the beams is a slow business with great care needed to avoid breaking the tabs off the beam ends.

1939

The aftermost deck beam is fitted first.  A tricky exercise involving cutting away sections of the mdf frames both sides and sanding the ends of the beam. I found that the recesses at either end of the beam needed a lot of fettlin’ in order to sit right down on the beam housing.

Note:

Were I starting this section again I would have trial fitted the beams before I set the gun carriages in place.

 

I found that I had to remove sections of all the mdf frames to get placement of the beams without the risk of stress both to the beams and myself.

My veneer saw proved useful for this task.

The forward beam at the break of the Qtr Deck has a classic curved design typical of the Ardent class of ships.

1941

Chris has designed a former over which to shape the laminated beam to give it the proper camber.

I will retain this little jig, it has potential for use on other projects.

1943

1945

The forward beam sits perfectly over the Main  bitt standards.

1946

The final check is to confirm the beams are seated properly and present a level surface across all points.

Two days work on this task, I can now remove the beams for a final cleaning up and painting.

 

B.E.

30/08/2023

 

 

[glbarlow]

Same stage I just completed for Winnie, we’re at similar stages. Nice work!

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Glenn, I'd better look in on your Winnie and see how it should be done, before I go much further.😊

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seventy-three

 

Back to the decks.

Pre-occupied with the deck beams I nearly forgot about the gundeck ironwork.

The kit provides etched eyebolts for the Training (relieving) tackle connection.

These should strictly be ringbolts and I used 2mm rings and Amati fine eyebolts to make up the required number running along the deck binding strakes.

1950

For the first three sets aft of the Riding Bitts I have used 3mm rings to represent the stopper bolts.

Apart from any other consideration ring bolts look nicer when looking down on the deck of a model.

 

There is then the shaped deck support pillars and in particular those within the area of the Capstan.

1956

There are four within the radius of the Capstan bars which even with a modest scale 9’ length would impede movement.

I think these would more likely be hinged iron supports that could be lifted out of the way when the capstan was in use.

1963

I have modified the pillars to represent such items, and which from the available viewing point would probably pass muster, at least to a blind man on a galloping horse.

1958

1967

I still may re-visit the iron stanchions and try a 1mm ø brass tube version.

 

B.E.

31/08/2023

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Looking good, your build standard is awesome and I wish I had the patience and skills to replicate.

 

Many thanks for sharing.

[mugje]

You would say that eyebolts or ringbolts doesn't make such a difference....but apparently it does by the looks of it. It gives more sense of scale or something  

Edited September 2, 2023 by mugje

[Theodosius]

Wow! I never thought that different sizes of ringbolds would add so much to a modell! Great idear and great execution! I like! 🙂

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seventy-four

 

Stanchions on my mind

I wasn’t really satisfied with my pillar conversion, so I had a play around with metal.

1969

Using square brass tubing (2.3mm) with the original wooden pillar tab inserted, I formed the foot of the stanchion. 1.5mm square section brass was used for the stanchion, ca’d into the top of the foot.

1971

1974

Chemically blackened, they provide a stronger contrast to the wooden support pillars.

1975

I think they look more representative of ‘iron’ stanchions.

I will finish the top end brackets once I have the determined the correct height, as I fit the deck beams.

 

The kit ladderway stanchions (or newels)are represented by brass etched posts with an eye, thro’ which line is threaded.

On my builds from Pegasus onwards I have passed over kit stanchions in favour of something more stylish.

For the stanchions I am using the same system  I adopted for Pegasus, which was based on the detail in the fffm Vol 11.

6989(2)

The makings involve having donor stanchions, the ones I use are 0.9mm ø with a 1.3mm finial. For the rings 0.3mm eyelets, (Caldercraft) are used, and 0.5mm ø brass rod for the rails.

1253

A spot of silver soldering is required to bring it all together.

Silver solder paste in two melt points 690º and 671º are required.

7044

Full details of the procedure can be found in my Pegasus log (page 4 – post 91) but I used the same  process on my Sphinx build (above)

1983

Main ladderway.

1986

Aft Ladderway.

1987

Main Hatch ladderway.

 

Forward to the Qtr deck beams.

 

B.E.

03/09/2023

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seventy-five

 

Fitting the Qtr deck beams

With the Qtr deck beams painted, fitting can begin.

1997

Slow and careful is the order of the day. Moving from aft forward each beam is test fitted before gluing, and the central support pillars gradually trimmed to height to fit beneath the beams without forcing the camber.

1998

Constant checking is a necessity.

 

If plan sheet 3 is used to aid location, there is a note to leave beam 14 off until part 103 (Carling) is fitted.

This would be a mistake as it would prove very difficult if not impossible to retro fit 14 after the following beams have been fitted.

Section 373 of the manual provides an alternative and more practical solution.

1991

I had a brief moment of panic fitting the final deck beam of the set (No9). I was expecting that it would be fully supported by the Main Jeer Bitt standards. Not so, it only catches the forward edge.(by design)

1989

The final beam is the Qtr deck breast beam supported at its centre by the Main Topsail sheet Bitts standards.

Before fitting I gave it the heat treatment secured over the former, to ensure the camber was properly set.

 

1993

1999

1996

The Capstan barrel extends down to the lower deck and will be trimmed to height once the Upper capstan is seated on the  QD step.

1995

I do like the shaped breast beam of these Ardent class ships.

1994

The final step will be to add the carlings.

 

B.E.

05/09/2023

 

 

[Lieste]

Is it a photographic artefact or does she look a little warped in that last image?

[Blue Ensign]

No warpage.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seventy-six

 

Carlings

These slot beautifully into the beam mortises.

2002

I use clamps to ensure they sit right down once glue is applied.

2005

Only the outer carlings, adjoining the breast beam, were a tad slack in the fit, and needed a little fettlin’.

2022

2021

The more I look at this framework, the less I want to cover it up.

2023

 

It will be an interesting exercise to work out how I can use the minimum planking to the best effect.

 

As I move on forward of the Qtr deck I had a change of heart about using the kit provided pillars atop the head ledges.

2006

They somehow look out of place, maybe because I raised and cambered the head ledges.

2016

2017

From this point on I decided to use ‘iron’ stanchions, they suited my eye better for this position.

I will continue to use the provided pillars for the  deck located beam supports.

 

Moving onto the Foc'sle framing.

 

B.E.

06/09/2023

 

[mugje]

That framework does look beautiful indeed!

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Mugje, the top faces still need a final clean as much of it will be left uncovered.

The Lodging knees are yet to be fitted.

The framing is much the same as on your Sphinx build, which I couldn't bear to cover up either. 

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[hollowneck]

On 9/5/2023 at 8:35 AM, Lieste said:

Is it a photographic artefact or does she look a little warped in that last image?

I suspect cell-phone wide angle lens distortion. Is this a credible supposition, B.E?

Nice stanchion metalwork. She’s coming together beautifully.

[hollowneck]

B.E., I’m sure you’ve considered planking one side only on the Q’deck (and on the foc’sle when you head to the bows). For an admiralty-styled presentation, I’d find this “half-planked” solution credible - and an interesting view.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Ron, I hadn’t thought of that layout, I’ll be playing around with various options using card  templates before I commit. I need to make up an example of the carronades and 12 pounder long to see how they impact on the deck space.

 

As far as photo distortion is concerned, it’s not reflected on the actual model, so I’m not overly concerned.

 

B.E.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post seventy-seven

 

Waist Beams

This section completes the framing over the waist.

1286

1285

2028

The beams slotted into place without issue.

I’m glad I made the decision to replace the beam supports over the head ledges with ‘iron’ stanchions on my particular build.

 

The shipyard is now closing for a week.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

08/09/2023.

[Theodosius]

I was thinking the whole time, what is it, that makes this build so good? For me, I think it's this: you make it look so easy, where we all know that it is not easy at all, but that is a quality in intself! I like!

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Theo,

A lot of praise should go to Chris whose designs and thoughtful build methods make us all look good, or at least better than we would otherwise. Chuck has a similar effect with his designs, and clear build processes.

Even so, below that smooth surface, I’m churning water, and catch myself clenching my teeth working on the trickier bits.

If I have a quality, it is a determination to slow down on a build and fight against the ‘that’ll do’ approach. I do strive to improve my builds, not always with full success, but I’m a lot harder on myself than I used to be.

 

I see the same approach in your work.

 

B. E.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seventy-eight

 

Foc’sle

More cleaning up of heavy char and a dry fit of the Foc’sle beams.

2056

2063

2064

2065

The beams and carlings slot easily into place, less trouble than the Qtr deck.

Hopefully the Foc’sle breast beam will stiffen up once it is glued into place and the carlings added.

 

Another round of painting now ensues, followed by the addition of hanging and lodging knees.

 

Chris has kindly provided the lodging knees with the Indy kit, which saves me the tiresome task of making them as I did with the Sphinx build.

 

Thanks Chris.👍

 

 

B.E.

16/09/2023

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post Seventy-nine

Foc’sle  (Part 2)

2073

The Foc’sle beams are fixed into place.

2074

Temporary props are used to support the breast beam whilst the carlings set.

2070

2067

The foremost beam of the Foc’sle deck is an mdf version, originally designed to incorporate the Bowsprit step.

To match the other beams, the top was faced with 0.6mm pear.

 

With the beams now fixed I move onto the Hanging and lodging knees.

This is a prep intensive exercise with char removal, painting, and fettlin’ to fit.

 

Those opting to fully deck the model need have little concern for such detail, as it will all be covered, but I would probably have done them anyway, given that Chris has taken the trouble to provide them.

 

B.E.

17/09/2023

 

 

[Thukydides]

It's looking good BE. Very neat work.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Eighty

Knees

Three full days’ work sees the completion of the Fo’csle deck framing.

 

There are four styles of knees used on the foc’sle and waist, many of them location specific.

Each needs cleaning and painting prior to use, and I found a sanding band/ mandrel made quick work of removing heavy char from these small fittings. I used a Proxxon 60/EF drill for the purpose, but any other similar tool (Dremel) would serve equally well.

 

Once cleaned and painted, Plan sheet 4 gives the location for fitting, and I’m good to go.

The phrase ‘good to go’ belies the very fiddly process of fitting these knees.

1369

I start at the Bow and once the fore-most Lodging knees are fitted the fun begins.

1368

I attend to the Hanging knees first, some of these are referred to as ‘dummy’ and are a fore shortened version to avoid fouling gun-ports. I fitted these first.

2080

As I expected fitting proved tricky, the full-length knees even more problematical, getting the vertical arm and horizontal knee to match the deck beam and quickworks was a tad trying to say the least.

2081

I found it necessary to adjust the angle of the knee where it joins the deck beam.

I took the approach of fitting the bulwark part and then trimming the knee angle to lie flush with the deck beam.

2079

The remaining Lodging knees which proved far less trouble, fitted neatly between the beam and hanging knee.

1366

I am not adding the Ledges that fit between the carlings and knees as these would obscure a lot of the view, which would defeat my purpose.

1372

I think the addition of these fittings adds immensely to the look of a ‘Navy Board’ style model.

2083

The paintwork took a hit during fitting, but I will attend to this once the larger exercise of fitting the Qtr deck is completed.

 

B.E.

20/09/2023

 

 

[mugje]

That looks lovely Blue Ensign  

[Theodosius]

I don't know what Ledges are, but it looks great the way it is 🙂

[Blue Ensign]

Thankyou Mugje and Theo.

 

@ Theo -  Deck ledges are narrower timbers that run between the carlings athwartships.

2095

2094

These pics show a mock up of how they were fitted. In reality they were let into the carlings, but ran flush with the deck beam cambers.

 

B.E.