Cangarda 1901 by KeithAug - Scale 1:24 - Steam Yacht

[wefalck]

That  would have been a job for my shop-built filing machine ...

 

I like the strategy for arriving at a solid round boss. Instinctively, I would have tried to silver-solder the boss on, but the large brass-piece might have drawn too much heat.

[druxey]

Lovely piece of fabrication. Thanks for sharing your process with us.

[TBlack]

That laser level is neat! I need one of those. Think waterlines?

[Rick310]

WOW!!!

Rick

[Jim Lad]

That's come up beautifully, mate!

 

John

[Mirabell61]

Exellent metal work at the heel Keith,

 

Nils

[KeithAug]

13 hours ago, wefalck said:

I would have tried to silver-solder the boss on, but the large brass-piece might have drawn too much heat.

Eberhard - that was my worry and I also thought the method I chose was potentially the easiest to guarantee alignment between the upper and lower bearing holes.

11 hours ago, TBlack said:

I need one of those.

Tom - relatively cheap from Amazon or Ebay. And yes they are excellent for waterlines.

 

Thank you Eberhard, Tom, Druxey, Rick, John and Nils.

 

And thank you to the usual crew of followers for the likes.

Edited April 10 by KeithAug

[Retired guy]

A proper job that is 👍

 

Regards

Richard

[BANYAN]

You continue to show us just what is possible with your metal smithing Keith; impressive results.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[FriedClams]

On 3/30/2024 at 7:08 PM, KeithAug said:

I discovered that it was more of a garbage truck than a family vehicle. Anyway, today I spent 6 hours getting it back to being tolerably habitable. The good news is that I found enough half eaten snacks to replenish our pantry for the foreseeable future

 

HA!  Whenever I see such a vehicle, my natural instinct is to recoil in horror.  To spend 6 hours cleaning it, attests to the level of affection for your daughter.  I hope she appreciates how fortunate she is to have such a father.

 

Masterful work on this rudder frame, Keith.  Carefully thought-out process and expertly executed.

 

Gary

[KeithAug]

Thank you Richard and Pat.

 

On 4/14/2024 at 5:11 PM, FriedClams said:

I hope she appreciates how fortunate she is to have such a father.

Gary - She says it is her greatest pleasure to be my forever financial burden. She also says my efforts are earning points which will influence her when choosing the quality of retirement home she will be putting me into when I can no longer look after myself. 

 

And so on to the rudder.

 

I started with a brass sheet .040" thick.

 

I drilled a number of holes at the centre of the various edge curves. I also turned up some filing buttons - blue arrows.

I cut away the waste brass and using the buttons I filed the edge curves. 

The rudder is profiled / streamlined although the front and rear edges are blunt.

The outer rudder shaft was made from brass tube with bearing ferrules at the upper and lower ends. The ferrules are drilled .040" diameter to take the fixed inner bearing shaft.

The small upper section shaft was made in a similar way. Below all 3 parts are assembled.

I will form the outer shape of the rudder by attaching mahogany to each side and then sanding to shape. Below the mahogany "cladding" has been cut and glued prior to attaching to the rudder shaft.

That's all for now.

[FlyingFish]

Enjoying your thought processes, Keith. I'd not heard of filing buttons - what a clever idea. Logged for future use.

[Jim Lad]

Continuing impressive blacksmithing, Keith.

 

John

 

 

[KeithAug]

Thank you Andy and John.

 

I spent a few hours today completing the rudder (excluding finishes).

 

The shaft is 0.16" diameter while the plate is .04" thick. I therefore needed to machine slots in the the cladding 0.08" radius by  0.06" deep. See blue arrows on next photo. I also cut the plate along the line of the shaft removing a .016" wide strip.

 

The brass pieces were then assembled on the cladding and glued in place using CA glue.

The other side of the gladding was then glued in place forming a brass sandwich.

The rudder is fitted with anodes. All the anodes on Cangarda are of the same flat plate type.  I drilled the holes for later anode attachment.

To get the taper sanding of the cladding symmetrical I employed a flat sheet of aluminium oxide paper and a bulldog clip.

The bulldog clip is holding the front of the rudder clear of the sandpaper and at a constant angle while the taper is sanded. The bulldog clip spring is hard enough to resist the abrasion of the oxide paper. The taper on the front edge of the rudder was formed in a similar manner.

My plan is to get on to the planking next. I expect it to be a long job so if you want to skip it I suggest you rejoin in about 2 months.

 

[Keith Black]

 Great attention to detail, Keith. 

[TBlack]

Keith, You continue to exhibit the old saying about “think outside the box”. I’m in awe.

Tom

[wefalck]

The contrast between brass and mahagony is always apealing, but I gather, beying 'under water' it will all be painted? Would be a pity for such lovely craftmanship to disappear under paint.

[druxey]

The bulldog clip is a nice hack for taper sanding!

[KeithAug]

6 hours ago, wefalck said:

but I gather, being 'under water' it will all be painted?

Eberhard - thank you - my current thought is to paint the hull above the waterline to match the original but to varnish below the waterline to show off the mahogany and brass. it is still early days and plans might change depending on how neat the planking is.

 

2 hours ago, druxey said:

The bulldog clip is a nice hack for taper sanding!

Druxey - Thank you ----- and the angle can be changed by moving it in or out from the edge.

 

And thank you to the Black twins for their unrelenting support.🙂

Edited April 17 by KeithAug

[wefalck]

My personal choice would be probably to varnish, though this is not very naturalistic. Just for aesthetics sake.

[Keith Black]

1 hour ago, wefalck said:

My personal choice would be probably to varnish

 Absolutely.

[druxey]

I understand that moving the clip adjusts the angle, Keith. I usually use a piece of flat scrap of suitable height resting on the sanding surface to tilt the piece I want to taper. Of course, that means moving the piece parallel to the scrap. Your method eliminates that necessity. 

 

And I second the motion for varnish!

[wefalck]

BTW, talking about toolmaker's buttons: I learned about them about 25 years ago, when I purchased from Lindsay Publications (now sadly defunct) a bunch of reprints of early 20th century machinist textbooks and the likes. Among these was

 

JONES, F.D. (1915): Modern Toolmaking Methods.- 309 p., (Industrial Press, reprint 1998 by Lindsay Publications Inc., Bradley IL).

 

Just checked on archive.org and one can now download a copy from there: https://archive.org/details/moderntoolmakingmethodsbyfranklind.jones.

[BobG]

I just came across your build log, Keith. I'll keep my comments short: what a magnificent yacht and an amazing build log! I'll take a seat and enjoy the show as well!

[Rick310]

Very impressive as always Keith!!

I still see her almost every day.  I hope there is a buyer in her future.

Rick

[KeithAug]

33 minutes ago, Rick310 said:

I hope there is a buyer in her future.

Hi Rick - yes let us hope she goes to a good home. I fear that she isn't suitable for the usual super yacht brigade. 

 

2 hours ago, BobG said:

I just came across your build log, Keith.

Welcome Bob I hope you enjoy the remainder of the build, you may need to patient I am not fast. 

 

[Retired guy]

Perfection Keith nice filing 👍, it would look very good with a coat of vanish as others have said, but IMO it would look out of place if you are going to paint her the colours you have shown in earlier posts.

 

Regards

Richard 

[Jim Lad]

Stunning work, Keith!

 

John

[FriedClams]

Sweet work, Keith.

 

Gary

[KeithAug]

Thank you John / Gary.

 

It is time to start what I anticipate to be a long planking job.

 

I am starting at the bulwark. I plan to plank the hull with mahogany planks of .062" thickness by nominally .220" wide. The plank widths will obviously vary to conform with the hull shape as progress is made. The bulwark will be made from a nominally 1" wide by  .032" thick birch ply which will be clad with .032" mahogany planks as per the attached sketch.

The bitch ply cannot follow the line of the bulwark exactly without shaping so it is being put on to sit slightly above the line of the capping rail. It will be cut back to the capping rail shape later in the build.

 

I started by glueing bits of scrap wood to the frames. These position / support the plywood during gluing. Each one cut back to  conform with the shape the plywood strip wants to take.

At this stage I also did the final sanding of the hull.

Then followed the slow process of fitting the plywood strakes. They were glued in position with a ample layer of PVA wood glue.

The strakes were held in place with plenty of notice board pins and elastic bands while the glue dried.

The plywood sheet wasn't long enough to extend the full length of the hull and the stern needed separate strips.

I didn't get one to the frames right and this was revealed "too late" by the application of the bulwark strakes. I will need to correct this before I plank the bulwarks. Stupidly having noticed the mistake I the repeated it on the other side. There is no fool like an old fool.

Applying the bulwark strake to the stern was quite challenging due to the extreme curvature.

Before attaching the ply to the stern I slotted it with a series of horizontal cuts.

With a bit of fiddling this enabled it to wrap around the stern.

A bit of sanding produced an acceptable shape for subsequent planking.

That all for now folks!