Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[rwiederrich]

Yes....I used an inaccurate term.  By *turned* I did mean the mentioned method by being segmentally planed.  A current example is posted on the Mystic web site....making the spars for the Charles W. Morgan.  What I was getting at was how exactly was Ed going to perform this and the difficulty it must have been to round the interlocking segments of the mast prior to iron banding.

 

From his answer, I can gather I was on the right track by simulation rather then replication.

 

Rob

[Capt.Bob]

captharv2,

Thanks for the Spar Shop link.  Very impressive.  Spent some time in Grey's shipping rocket motors to Japan in the 90s. Beautiful harbor, I even considered it for retirement, but a little too damp.

 

Rob,

I should read a little more carefully before opening my mouth (it was late).  "Rounding" a segmented mast without banding or assembly must have been a real trick.  Shipwrights were amazing craftsmen.  Your simulation looks great.

[EdT]

Rob, just a further comment to better address your question.  I believe what you are describing is "chapeling".  There is no sign of this on the Young America photos and I will not be using it on the model.  I am not sure how common the practice was.  According to Crothers it could be solely decorative or simply a rounding of the sharp corners on certain types of multi-stick masts.  It could be carved into the masts or formed by relieving the sharp corners on mast segments.  In the latter case blocks were fitted under the bands.  Crothers laments the lack of information on American mast making and I do not intend to go into deeper research than he did.

 

I expect to be simulating one of the other mast assemblies but have not decided on which.   Lacking definitive YA data, I want to keep it relatively simple.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 173 – Stovepipe/Channels

 

A short update.

 

I am sure I have mentioned that my present goal with the model is to complete the work of fitting out the hull and decks in preparation for masts and rigging. Completion of this work will define the endpoint of Volume II of Modeling Young America, and the starting point of Volume III.  We're getting close, with only the deck and hull eyebolts and a few other small chores remaining.

 

One of the minor chores was making and fitting the stovepipe through the roof at the forward end of the main deck cabin.  This was made as a fabrication of pieces of telescoping brass tube segments – a convenient fabrication method.  The first picture shows the stack before blackening.

 

 

The design is based on the two photos of the ship.  Three sizes of tube were used, plus a segment of solid rod to close the top of the diffuser cap.  The next picture shows the installed stack.

 

 

The simulated flashing at the base helped secure the stack in a drilled hole.

 

This week the channel deadeye installations were also completed.  The next picture shows the starboard mizzen channel and deadeyes. 

 

 

Deadeyes on all channels range from 16" (.22" actual) to 6" (.08 actual).  The largest on the mizzen channel shown above are 13".  Making the deadeye chains was described in an earlier post.   A number of eyebolts are yet to be installed in the channels.

 

The last picture shows the model at the current state.

 

 

Another bit of work that may be noticeable to some followers of the project is that the decks have been finished with a single coat of diluted Tung oil.  The open pores of the unfinished decks were beginning to accumulate dirt.  The finish has darkened the Castello decks slightly, evened out their finish and will make them easier to keep clean.  I did not use the usual wax finish because I am anticipating gluing some rope coils later and I believe with the right glue they will hold on the (by then) polymerized Tung oil.  Anyway, the decks had to be finished.

 

Ed

[albert]

Fantastic work Ed, very nice.

[Capt.Bob]

Seriously guys, does anyone keep their shop that clean??  Very nice full view.  I was going to ask you about the wax finish and bonding.  I have been using a 1/2 lb cut of Tiger Flake shellac on the fore/aft surfaces of the timbers prior to installation.  A single coat seals the grain without build up.

 

Do you have any idea when Vol. II will be available?  I'm ready to send my check.

 

Bpb

[EdT]

Thanks, Guys.  It was a rare moment in the shop.

 

Bob, shellac is a good sealer and a good primer for just about any non-penetrating finish - paint varnish, acrylics, etc..  It can also be sanded and polished and will always be dissolvable in alcohol.  It is also a good stain blocker before painting over knots, etc.  It does yellow.   It is a fast drying, surface finish, so on the decks it would have to be brushed out thoroughly which is not easy - or buffed when dry - also not easy with all the obstructions.  I tried some thinned polyurethane on the forecastle, but was not satisfied for these reasons, hence the thinned oil.  This left a very uniform finish, so unless I have some bonding problems later, I will be happy with it.  I would have waited if I had any wood to wood gluing left to do, however.

 

There is no question that glue will not bond to wax - at least no glue I know of.

 

On the book, my guess is sometime in the first half of 2017, but no scheduling has been done yet and right now the ball is still in my court to produce the manuscript and enclosures.  

 

Ed

[Mirabell61]

Hello Ed,

 

love that model, the way you make the outcuts in decks deck-houses, and even one of the boats is only half planked.

The last pic with the black hull, the golden ornamenting and the partial sheeting look great, Beautiful work, what a pleasure to look at.

 

 

Nils

[EdT]

Thank you, Nils.  I am sure you are well aware - with the size of your models - how awkward it can be to get photos of the full model - especially if you have a cluttered shop as a background as I do.  I expect this will be even more of a problem for the rigged model, although I intend to fully encase it before rigging begins.

 

The main cabin left me with a dilemma.  It is so large that it becomes a real barrier to viewing the structure below, so cutting one side away seemed appropriate.  At the same time, including internal detail would have equally blocked the view, so I left it open and unfurnished inside.  The goal has been to present a finished look, except for the lower hull, from the starboard side and more open structure on the port side.  That was also the approach on Naiad.

 

Ed

[Mirabell61]

Hi Ed,

 

right, I remember when member Lee posted his progress steps on his lovely Cutter "Alert" he gave me the tip to use a black cloth or black blanket as background for those full view pics, and I follow his advice now and then with good results.

 

Your approach with the cut-aways on "Young America" is superb just like is....

 

Nils

[allanyed]

Nils and Ed

 

You can buy rolls of backdrop paper in white, black, grey, and many other plain background shades.   I usually tape the top of the sheet as high as needed on a wall, then roll it down and onto the floor and let it run out 5 or 6 feet with a wide radius where it goes from vertical to horizontal.   Photos below show what I mean on this.

 

Allan 

[michaelpsutton2]

I am just now looking at your mast. I see where McLean points out that some masts were "filled under the hoops". The fact that he takes note of it for some ships means that it was not universal. Which way are you going?

Edited September 12, 2016 by michaelpsutton2

[rwiederrich]

Just for informational purposes...here is an image of a clipper ships mizzen mast(Cannot recall the vessel).

Note the internal iron pins and the iron banding and plugs beneath the bands.  McKay used this mast design on many of his clippers...I wasn't totally sure about Webb's use of this design.

 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

Here is a drawing of the mast construction for typical American clippers. (edited; drawing by George Campbell).  Again..not sure if Webb used these designs.

 

I do know many clippers of the day from many builders did use the design...like this image of the *Electric Spark* and the *Glory of the Seas*

 

Rob

Edited September 12, 2016 by rwiederrich

[EdT]

Thank you for the pics, Allan and Rob.  

 

Allan, good to hear from you.   Euryalus looks great in that picture - had not seen such a good color shot before.  Actually, both models look great.  I have a large (60" wide) roll of backdrop paper that I use for finished photos, but for the everyday pics  (usually 6-10 per day) its not practical to use.  

 

I like the picture of the chapelled mast, Rob.  The drawing should be credited to George Campbell, by the way.  I am aware that bolting was used in addition to the hoops.  Bolts went in before hoops, but the question is which came first in a made mast, assembly or rounding.  No one seems to say explicitly.  Bolts would definitely interfere with rounding if installed before.  For modeling, this may be academic.  I expect to assemble the pieces, then round the masts, then add bolts and hoops - and as I said, based of photo evidence - I do not intend to chapel the masts.

 

michealpsutton2, just to keep the record straight, the model mast pictures are Rob's, not mine.

 

Ed

[rwiederrich]

Yes...thanks for correcting me Ed...I failed to recognize George Campbell's drawing.......

 

Thanks for responding so generously. I would have to agree anyway...I Have found no photographic evidence of such chapelling(sic) on the Y/A.

 

I think your decision to model the built masts as you did the entire ship would be very fitting...since it is a hidden structural detail most are not even aware of.

 

Rob 

[allanyed]

Thanks Ed

 

I have not done so since our move to Florida, but in NJ I had the roll on a metal pipe attached to a wall in the basement.  I ran down the paper to the floor and out when I needed a large shot, them rolled it back up.   Couple diffused spot lights were used to minimize shadows behind.  For a long session I took it outside and shot midday with a north light. Pain in the neck but only done now and then. No shadows to worry about.  For photographing small objects I built a photo box from a corrugated box with most of the top and the sides cut out then and covered with a nearly transparent paper to allow in diffused light from simple spot lights.  The back "wall" and "floor" were set up with a piece of the back drop paper and  mini studio resulted.  The opening was about 18" X 18" so small and light enough to put up on a shelf when not in use.  I don't remember where the idea came from, but it worked nicely.   Being cardboard, it did not survive the move, but it was a simple project.

 

You are the point on the clipper where none of these would be convenient, but I trust you will find a way!

 

Allan

[EdT]

Allan,

 

Thanks for your further comments.  Soon I will be building a dust case for the rigging work that should solve the background problem.  I plan to use sheets of the photo background paper on the wood-framed sides and ends with clear Plexiglas on the top for light.  Sides will be removable for work but with the paper installed correctly at the corners I hope to get a good all around, uninterrupted background as well as dust protection.  I did this when rigging Victory using white foamboard and it worked well.  This one is too big (56"L x 36"H x 18"W) for standard foamboard .   

 

I had to look closer at your avatar to figure out that you have perhaps turned into an alligator?

 

Ed

[allanyed]

Ed,

Just one of our new neighbors in the avatar photo. Keeps away pesky solicitors.  I like your idea on the rigging box, especially with the removable sides.   

I will be staying tuned.

 

Allan 

[John Allen]

Only 2 words

 

AWE INSPIRING

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 174 – Eyebolts

 

There are about 5 dozen eyebolts to be mounted on the deck and rails.  These are eyebolts to which rigging lines, mostly for tackles, will be secured by hooks.  There are another 3 dozen or so to which lines or chain will be shackled.  Since the shackles will be non-working, these latter eyebolts may not be permanently fixed until the lines are attached, mostly by splices and thimbles, block straps, seized ends or chain links.  Making these connections in place is not an option for me so the connections will be made before the shackle eyebolts are fitted.  The unshackled eyebolts, however, may be installed at this time.  The rigging drawings necessary to place these are complete.

 

I made the 60 eyebolts in about an hour by the method shown below.  They were made by spinning 26 gauge copper wire.  The eyes are about 5" O.D.  The first picture shows the tools and raw material.

 

 

The hand drill is fitted with a hook made from a pleating pin.  A slightly larger diameter hook is also shown and was used for the shackled eyebolts that will be described in a later post.  For convenience I used the Unimat® vise set up as shown.   A short piece of wire is bent and the ends secured in the vise.  The next picture shows an eyebolt being spun.

 

 

The amount of spinning becomes a matter of judgement.  The next picture shows two sizes of eyebolt.

 

 

The smaller size to the left was made from 26 gauge wire.  All of the deck and rail mounted eyebolts are 24 gauge, 5" O.D.  The next picture shows these blackened using liver of sulfur.

 

 

The bolts all have the same diameter shafts, with some variation in O.D.  However, all these were deemed acceptable for use.  The O.D. at 1:72 scale is about .07".

 

Holes were drilled for a slip fit with some friction.  After drilling the eyebolt was dipped in medium viscosity CA and pushed into the hole with pliers.  The next picture shows four of these around the fore mast.

 

 

There is, of course, a slight twist to eyebolts made by this method, but at this scale I felt it was acceptable.  Apart from the ease of making these, they also have advantage of eye strength without soldering, and gripping strength in the holes.

 

The next picture shows some of these in the main rails, in the outer binding strakes, and around the mizzen mast.

 

 

There are also several bolted through the channels and several around the poop rail and outer deck strakes.  There are a few on the exterior of the hull but most of those will have shackles attached.

 

Another pre-rigging chore completed.

 

Ed

[albert]

Fantastic work.

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 175 – Shackles

 

Since I will be away for the next couple weeks, I thought I would cram in one more post before leaving – especially since it relates closely to the last post. 

 

There will be many shackles like those described below in Young America's rigging – 3 dozen or more on the deck and hull, plus many more aloft on yard bands, connecting chains and wire to rope, etc.

 

Shackles consist of  U-shaped iron yokes with screwed bolts threaded into the ends.  They replaced ring bolts, seized lashings and other connectors.  Easy removal of the screwed bolt allowed connections and disconnections to be made easily.  Several shackled eyebolts are shown below.

 

 

These will eventually be installed in the deck, rails, or hull by the method described in the last part – but not until later after the lines have been spliced on at the workbench.  The next picture shows the two parts of a shackle about to be silver-soldered.

 

 

The two pieces are 24 gauge copper wire – same gauge as the eyebolt.  Copper-phosphorus paste has been applied at the joints.  The configuration of the pieces is intended to simulate the horseshoe shape with a straight bolt at the bottom.  The picture also shows an eyebolt embedded in the soldering block ready for attachment of its shackle – not the one shown.  The next picture shows the soldered shackle before trimming the bolt ends.

 

 

There will be relatively few of these standalone shackles, so this was for demo only.  The next picture (apologies for bad focus) shows the soldering setup for an eyebolt-attached shackle.

 

 

The embedded eyebolt must be kept clear of the solder paste so the parts will swing freely.  After soldering, the shackle must be rotated so its bolt passes through the eyebolt allowing the rope or other line to connect to the horseshoe loop. This rotation has been done on the pieces in the last picture.

 

 

The loops on these shackles at 1:72 are about 6" (.08" actual) diameter.

 

Next topic: Whisker booms.

 

 

Ed

 

[capnharv2]

Thanks Ed. I learn something every time.

 

Harvey

[jbshan]

When you build your photo box, if you make the back and sides of interior lining in one piece, the corners can be curved which will help make the background disappear and provide even lighting.

[EdT]

Thanks, everyone.

 

jbshan, I intend to curve the paper to blend at the corners, but remember, the sides must be removable.  Thanks.

 

Ed

[jbshan]

Ed, they don't have to be full sides, just a couple of inches to mask the corner.  If you can make the box big enough to have the back fully cover your field of view, you won't need sides, of course, or have a way to crop close either in the camera or with some photo manipulating software.

[EdT]

That's what I am planning, Joel - excess on the end panels that will overlap the side panels on the inside.  Should only be a small overlap line.  The main purpose is dust protection and ease of access for construction.  Should work out fine.  Thanks for the input.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 176 – Whisker Booms

 

After a couple weeks on my favorite beach – one passed by Young America on her last fateful voyage – I have now returned refreshed and ready for the fall modeling campaign.  The whisker booms were completed just before we left.

 

Whisker booms were iron extensions to the catheads that served as spreaders for the chain jibboom and flying jibboom guys.  The first picture shows the installation of these fragile-looking members.

 

 

The whiskers extend about 5 feet from the ends of the catheads and are bolted to the after sides.  Each has formed cleats on the top face through which will pass the chain guys.

 

The whisker booms were made from hard brass plate and were shaped by hand methods – sawing and filing.  In the next picture a jeweler's saw with a fairly wide blade is being used to cut the inner line of the end cleat on the pair of booms.

 

 

Apart from these initial cuts, each boom was shaped individually.  The next picture shows one finished boom and one in progress.

 

 

To be sure these would smoothly pass the chain guys they were tested as shown below with some of the correct-size chain.

 

 

In the next picture the port boom is held in place with a clamp while the run of the chain guy is being checked. 

 

 

The guys will obviously be installed later when the bowsprit is installed and rigged.  The next picture shows the port boom temporarily bolted to the cathead.

 

 

The bolts were silver-soldered into the booms before blackening, then rounded off and cut to length.  The bolts were then CA glued into drilled holes in the cathead.

 

The last picture shows the finished boom on the port side.

 

 

 

 

Ed

Edited September 29, 2016 by EdT

[Mirabell61]

great metal work Ed,

 

Nils