Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[rwiederrich]

I too have been anxiously waiting to get a copy of volume II...and was greatly pleased to find a copy for sale on Ebay…….at a fantastic price!  YIPPY!

 

Now patiently waiting on a copy of volume III to find its way to me...…...

 

Rob

Edited December 20, 2019 by rwiederrich

[EdT]

Thank you, everyone, for all these comments.  I have been less active on the forum for awhile, but I still check for notifications and p-messages every day.  I am happy to say that YA Volume 3 has shipped - I received my copies before the holidays.  Please be aware that there was a problem in assembling the book package - with the CD that was included with the book.  Seawatch is sending the correct replacement CDs for all books shipped and correcting this for future shipments.  If you received a book you should be hearing from them.  So far, the response to the book has been very good.  My thanks and apologies to all the early purchasers.

 

As usual. I will be monitoring the forum topics in the Book Review Section here on the forum - for comments, questions etc.  Any necessary corrections will also be placed on those topics - for both Naiad and Young America books.

 

Thanks again for all your support over the past several years.

 

Ed

[rtwpsom2]

I just got off the phone with Bob at Seawatch, he says the new CD's are in and books should start shipping tomorrow.

[rtwpsom2]

Received it today. Thanks a ton, Ed, it's a great series I'm proud to own.

[Tigersteve]

I had received my copy of volume 3 before the holidays. Now that I have the correct CD sent from the publisher, I’d like to say some things about the whole package. Even after a quick look at the content included in the book, CD, and the 13 drawings, I can easily say that it’s extensive, wow!
 

What a great resource Ed has put together. It would have been a shame to not have the correct CD, which includes several additional materials. The build log PDFs and rigging checklist are just some of the cherries on top.

 

It’s worth purchasing even if just to find out how Ed contained the massive amount of rigging content into this single volume. It is well done. 
Steve

[mulsatwinchester]

Easily Made Realistic Bolts for Fittings

 

Tom M

 

Winchester MA

 

Hi:  Am a new participant, and EdT ‘s Young America is the first topic I read. It is beautiful!!

In the July 1, 2018 timeframe, the discussion related to the topmast fids being fitted with shackles.  Below is an idea that might have been an alternative solution to making the shackles in situ, as so nicely shown by EdT

Demonstrated below is a nice method to create bolts for various model ship fittings.  I came up with the idea while working on the 1/8 inch scale Smuggler, the 1877 Gloucester schooner:

1.     Snip some black plastic fibers from a car snow brush, or similar implement.

 

 

2.     Bring one end of a fiber near to, but not touching, a hot soldering iron tip.

3.     With just the right nearness for just a second or less, the end flares out. One end of the bolt is done.

 

 

4.     After insertion into position on the fitting, trim the other end of the bolt to a just a couple of millimeters protruding , and again bring the soldering iron close. With only a bit of practice, the result is realistic bolt, as in the examples below.  If it doesn’t look right in place, it is easily snipped off and redone.

 

 

5.     EdT’s fid could have been installed, and shackles bolted in place with this technique.

 

TJM 21 Jan 2010

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 23, 2020 by mulsatwinchester
Duplicate photos.

[EdT]

Nice, creative technique, Tom.  Thanks for sharing.

[Maury S]

Might the technique also work with black monofilament line that many of us use as a result of Ed's comments?  (I don't have a car snow brush).

Maury

[AON]

yes it does

just test a moment ago

see below

[niwotwill]

Ed 

I just finished going through your Young America log and found the work and log to be truly amazing and I can't thank you enough for your contributions to the MSW. There is so much information in the log that Ive made a excel spreadsheet to use as an index to help me find any particular item I need to review and am using it now to review your frame making tutorial, but have one question What type of board do you use to pin the frame pieces too? I tried MDF with no results.

 

Again thank you for all you do.

Will

[EdT]

Thank you, Will.  I appreciate your comments.  I have been a long-time used of a product called Homasote.  It is a dense compressed paper product sold mainly for soundproofing.  It initially found use for hobbyists as model railroad track base.  It holds pins well - and track spikes.  I would search online for it.  Lowes and/or Home Depot have carried it recently, but a general search may yield other sources.  I do not know of a good substitute and have relied on it for years.  Let me know what you find.

 

Ed

[niwotwill]

Thank you Ed for the quick response, I checked online and found 1/2" X 2' X 4' at Menards for $11.96 and they will ship to my home in Queen Creek. Home Depot & Lowes carry a sound barrier foam board but they are not the same as Homasote. Again thanks now I'll continue with my TurboCad database of the schooner Lettie G. Howard from the HAER drawings. I'll use your approach to test my lofting and your assembly methods before I get too far down the road.

 

Will

[Guest clipper randy]

thanks much Ed  ' I too have enjoyed your build !! 

[Randy Todd]

Hi Ed,

 

I am finishing up Chapter 6 and have the long ribands ready for the beginning of chapter 7. My question is regarding when to fair the exterior hull. While you do some external fairing around this time in the blog (and I'll admit, having the opportunity of add some strength to the keel-half frame interface while the hull is inverted is tempting), in the book you recommend waiting. Given the length of the lever arm of the unattached riband, I am not inclined to fair the external aspect of the frames as the book recommends. I remember reading when you do recommend fairing the external aspect of the frames but can't find it now. When do you recommend sanding the external surfaces of the frames?

 

Thanks in advance for your help,

 

Randy

[EdT]

Randy, you will have to use your own judgement in this.  If you have beveled the frames before erection as I did, and recommended, the amount of hull sanding should be primarily smoothing - and minimal.  The forward cant frames may be an exception and I described the sanding I did in the book. However, if you have left the frames rough, more sanding will be required.  There is a grey area. The softwood spacers between frames should provide enough strength to support sanding (120 grit?) but maybe not if it needs to remove a lot of material.  Once these spacers are in place you should be able to sand.

 

You should be able to do some sanding right at the base of the half frames once you have fitted the "functional" copper bolts, but the spacers will be needed for sanding further up.

 

I know there is a hesitance to pre-bevel frames.  I think this is because most model frame patterns are not precise with three profiles - forward, joint line, and aft - both on the internal and external sides on the YA patterns.  Because the method I used to draft the frame patterns, these are highly accurate - enough for pre-beveling.  This mimics how real frames were beveled before setting.  Because this was the first time for this, I was conservative at first, leaving slightly more stock for post-erection beveling.  Ultimately, I found this unnecessary and actually an obstacle to precise frame erection.  Perhaps you found this as well.

 

My advice - use your judgement.  Its part of the process and of the experience.

 

Cheers,

 

Ed

[Randy Todd]

Hi Ed,

 

Based on the shape emerging after placing the fore frames and my experience fairing the inside of the hull to place the keelson, I don't think it will be an odious task fairing the outside. As your approach to frame construction was new to me, I think I tended to be a little more generous with the first few frames, but came much closer to the pattern edges with the rest. I suspect most of my work will be along the same areas as well as at the keel rabbet. I am inexperienced with the copper bolting and how it might impede my ability to sand. So let me ask my question a different way: what is the latest point in the book/construction where I can fair the exterior hull?

 

Again, thanks!

 

Randy

[EdT]

I worked on fairing the lower hull progressively as availability presented itself.  Whereas I am particular about sequence in many areas, I think this fairing process can be subject to your judgement - whenever you think the framing can take it.  I had only light sanding to do.  In looking back at Vol I, its clear I did not think the timing of this to be critical.  I probably did some after bolting on the lower half frames and more later.  I'd say the lower hull should be well faired and finish sanded by the time you get to cutting the limber channels Ch 12.  Fairing the top timbers is covered in Ch 11.  I am pretty sure I had done the entire hull by the time I got to the the top timbers.

 

As for the copper bolts, after the glue has dried the ends may be filed flush.  After that, they should not impede your sanding or tear up the paper, but I believe I had finished fairing before the external bolting described in Ch 8 (pp 99-100), then did more finish sanding after that..

 

 

[slackwater]

Ed,

 

I bought your book and have started the build. I'm now constructing the square frames, would you be available for contact to answer some questions? 

[EdT]

My preference would be to have you post questions here on the build log so that others may benefit as well - and offer answers and comments as well.  I keep an eye on this daily.

 

Ed

[slackwater]

OK, for frame 1 pattern you show that the floor is sided at 14", then the 2nd futtock at sided at 13" and so forth. So I have the the thickness for each piece cut at that thickness. Now, when I go to glue each section down on the plan the varying thickness of forward and aft pieces they are not flat. Their is a gap between the aft and forward pieces because of the varying thicknesses. I would think that the aft and forward sections of the frames should lay flat on each other?

 

I'm I missing something? Or do I have this done correctly?

 

Thanks! Big time.

[slackwater]

Should have re-read before I posted. Bad typos. I can spell

 

[EdT]

Slackwater,

 

I believe the text is quite clear on this.  The futtocks should not be sided until after assembly if you are using this method. To quote from Ch 5:

 

Although frame components diminish in siding from bottom to top, all of the pieces should be cut from stock that is the thickness of the lowest parts, the floors or the lower futtocks.  This will allow the frames to lie directly on the pin board without spacers under the upper parts during assembly.  It will also provide an accurate basis for beveling. The sidings are smaller toward the ends of the hull, so check the List of Dimensions.  The upper futtocks will be cut back to their correct sidings after beveling and removal of the patterns. 

 

 

The initial toptimber sidings are an exception.  On the finished model, they will be prominently lined up along the main deck where any small difference in size will be very noticeable.  You will recall the quality criteria relating to uniformity of similar parts.  All of these toptimbers, two on the forward frame of each pair, should be cut out from 9” thick stock to ensure their identical width.  These will be attached after the other parts of the frame are assembled.

Ed

 

[slackwater]

Thanks for the input!

[Randy Todd]

Hi Ed,

 

I am getting ready to fabricate the stern cant frames. In the List of Dimensions, the middle futtock siding is listed as 11" while the drawings consistently list 12". I remember you saying to always follow the LoD but I just wanted to confirm: the stern cant frame middle futtock (as seen on the 'aft' drawings) are 11" siding, correct?

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Randy

[EdT]

I will take a look later this morning, Randy.  Stay tuned.

[EdT]

Hi Randy,

Thank you for remembering that the List Of Dimensions takes priority.  I assume you are referring to the aft frames 43a, 44a, 45a, which indeed show 2nd futtocks at 12" in conflict with the LOD that specifies these at 11"  - a good example of why dimensions should be shown in only one place.  I probably could not resist putting sizes on the pattern sheets for clarity and ready reference.  A trap.  Because the LOD was created directly from my sources before making any drawings, using those dimensions is probably best - in this case and in general.  The difference on these pieces is slight ( 1" = .013") and I believe they will be planked over.  I cannot recall what I used, but would not be surprised to find it was the drawing dimension.

 

Thanks for raising this point.  Keeps me honest.

 

Ed

[Randy Todd]

Hi Ed,

After reading your three volumes, it seems clear to me that I will need a milling machine and lathe- both for this and future projects. I have no experience here and looking over my options, find this a bit intimidating. This leads to a couple questions:

[1] Looking around, I am leaning towards a Sherline 5400 series milling machine and 4400 series lathe. I know you like to avoid making specific recommendations, but are these appropriate choices for now and the future- or is it too much/little. Better yet, can you make any recommendations.

[2] As I said earlier, I am have not experience and am a little intimidated. I read one book on home milling machines but it still seemed a little abstract. Do you have any recommendations about a book and/or video that might serve as a useful introduction for someone with my limited skill set?

 

Thanks!

[dvm27]

10 hours ago, Randy Todd said:

Hi Ed,

After reading your three volumes, it seems clear to me that I will need a milling machine and lathe- both for this and future projects. I have no experience here and looking over my options, find this a bit intimidating. This leads to a couple questions:

[1] Looking around, I am leaning towards a Sherline 5400 series milling machine and 4400 series lathe. I know you like to avoid making specific recommendations, but are these appropriate choices for now and the future- or is it too much/little. Better yet, can you make any recommendations.

[2] As I said earlier, I am have not experience and am a little intimidated. I read one book on home milling machines but it still seemed a little abstract. Do you have any recommendations about a book and/or video that might serve as a useful introduction for someone with my limited skill set?

 

Thanks!

Might I suggest checking out this series on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/c/MiniMachining/playlists. There are complete videos of setting up and using Sherline mills and lathes. In addition check out the videos by Blondi Hacks https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7Jf7t6BL4e74O53dL6arSw. She's a wonderful teacher and has comprehensive videos on using the mill and lathe. Between those two you should be able to become comfortable with both. Above all remember that these tools are designed to machine metal and are not toys. They do a great job on wood but be sure to observe all safety operations and use eye protection. 

[EdT]

Hi Randy,

 

I do not believe you can go wrong with the Sherline tools.  I have found them to be excellent, with an excellent array of additional accessories - all of high quality.  So I do not hesitate to recommend.  Greg's suggestion sounds like it would be very useful, though I have not seen the videos.  I also found the book, Tabletop Machining, by Joe Martin, the late owner of Sherline, to be very good and written for people like us.  The manuals that come with the tools are also very good.  In the Naiad and Young America books, I did my best to describe machining steps in some detail, recognizing that, like myself, most modelers are not trained machinists.  There is a learning curve.

 

As with all good tools, the Sherline machines plus the necessary accessories, will be costly.  I suggest buying them progressively, rather than all at once, adding accessories as they are needed.  I believe in YA Volume I, I discussed which would likely to be needed first for a model of that type.  You might want to have a look at that.

 

All the best,

 

Ed

[Randy Todd]

Hi Ed,

 

When making the planking clamps, what is the best way to drill the 1/16" hole through the brass strip?

 

Randy