Must-have Tools for hull, bulkhead, and planking

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

Hi everybody, 

 

I've been sort of shopping around on Amazon for some initial tools for my first ship and I wanted to ask here. Hopefully this thread can help others as well. 

 

I really want to focus on getting the measurements and skill of planking down and have been watching quite a few tutorials, including the ones recommended here. I thought I'd share what I have in my cart and see of anybody thinks this is unneeded or make additional recommendations. Thanks! 

 

1. Masters brush cleaner

2. A set of 24 white nylon brushes, CONDA is the brand, very general set for glue and just to have something. 

3. K6 knife with no. 11 blades (100)

4. Clothespins (2", 100)

5. Digital caliper

6. 3.5" spring clips (16)

7. 2 Oz. Ball and peen hammer

8. 32 Oz. TITEBOND II glue

9. 12x18 Self healing mat

10. Rotary tool with chuck

 

Thanks for any help,

Chris

 

Edited July 5, 2023 by GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH
Sp

[robert952]

Greetings and welcome aboard.

 

If it's the first model you have built, you may want to review this thread:

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/page/8/#comment-977787

 

The recommendation from above (short version) start small to build your skills.  (Be honest with yourself to avoid frustration down the road.)

 

As for tools it depends on the model and scale you plan to build. The list you have is a good start for basic tool kits.  You could also review some starter tool kits like this one to see what you might want to consider.  (Those kits may or may not have things you really need.)

 

You may need smaller clips and maybe larger.   

 

Tape (painter's tape) proves useful to me for test fitting and holding things in place temporarily (as with test fitting, holding things as glue cures, and of course, to help with masking off areas during the painting process. 

 

I'd suggest some type of 90 degree square (machinist square).  I'd suggest at least two to square up two faces and allow you to work on more than one frame/bulkhead.  When building plank-on-bulkhead or plank-on-frames, getting the frames set properly is critical.  Some models give you a building rig of some type.  However, I have found it a good idea to be sure you check they are square.  Look at Micromark and Model Expo for these  while shopping.  You can find different price points.  Find what your budget can stand. 

 

Tweezers!  Be sure to have a couple of different sizes with self-locking in the mix.  There's some 'kits' that have a selection of tweezers that might be a good start until you figure out which type works best for  you.  

 

As to glue/adhesives, again, a lot depends on your model, how things fit, how fast parts need to set, etc.  Also, if you plan on using photoetched parts, plastic, and different materials ,may require different types of glue.  

 

I'll leave room for others to join in with their list.  

 

As you will likely find with this thread, you will get a lot of opinions and ideas.  

 

Good luck.  Keep us posted with a build log when you start. 

 

Edited July 5, 2023 by robert952

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

51 minutes ago, robert952 said:

Greetings and welcome aboard.

 

If it's the first model you have built, you may want to review this thread:

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/page/8/#comment-977787

 

The recommendation from above (short version) start small to build your skills.  (Be honest with yourself to avoid frustration down the road.)

 

As for tools it depends on the model and scale you plan to build. The list you have is a good start for basic tool kits.  You could also review some starter tool kits like this one to see what you might want to consider.  (Those kits may or may not have things you really need.)

 

You may need smaller clips and maybe larger.   

 

Tape (painter's tape) proves useful to me for test fitting and holding things in place temporarily (as with test fitting, holding things as glue cures, and of course, to help with masking off areas during the painting process. 

 

I'd suggest some type of 90 degree square (machinist square).  I'd suggest at least two to square up two faces and allow you to work on more than one frame/bulkhead.  When building plank-on-bulkhead or plank-on-frames, getting the frames set properly is critical.  Some models give you a building rig of some type.  However, I have found it a good idea to be sure you check they are square.  Look at Micromark and Model Expo for these  while shopping.  You can find different price points.  Find what your budget can stand. 

 

Tweezers!  Be sure to have a couple of different sizes with self-locking in the mix.  There's some 'kits' that have a selection of tweezers that might be a good start until you figure out which type works best for  you.  

 

As to glue/adhesives, again, a lot depends on your model, how things fit, how fast parts need to set, etc.  Also, if you plan on using photoetched parts, plastic, and different materials ,may require different types of glue.  

 

I'll leave room for others to join in with their list.  

 

As you will likely find with this thread, you will get a lot of opinions and ideas.  

 

Good luck.  Keep us posted with a build log when you start. 

 

Robert, 

 

Thanks for the great insight. I have definitely read that cautionary tale and understand how things can go, as with anything we do in life. I chose the lady nelson (1:64) because the look and history appelaed to me, and it seems far more manageable, relatively speaking, than a Vicory, Constitution, etc., though that goes without saying. I know I have my work cut out for me, but I'm in no hurry. I'm also not expecting it to go as planned 😅 

 

The tools and supplies you recommended are great, and for that I thank you. I have lots of painters tape, but will add the others to the list. 

 

Cheers, and thanks for taking time to answer 

 

Chris

 

 

[wefalck]

As to the rotary tool: I would rather look for something with collets; they are less bulky and unless you get something really cheapo with brass collets, their concentricity is much better than that of a chuck.

 

I would also add one or two pin-vises to the list, to hold small parts, but also to hold pins for various operations and small drills.

 

Plus drills, of course. Go for HSS, rather than carbide. Carbide breaks easily when hand-drilling - they are made for drill-stands or milling machines.

 

And perhaps a small archimedean drill, the size of a pin-vise. It is more sensitive and less bulky than a rotary tool for drilling holes < 1 mm.

 

For the rotary tool you may also want a set of carbon-steel and/or diamond burrs with 2.34 mm shaft. They come at moderate prices in sets of different shape and size. As your needs develop, you can upgrade. They wear out anyway over time.

 

For the tweezers, it is better not to buy on-line - one has to check how well the points close and how stiff they are. Bad tweezers can be very frustrating. A good pair, treated well, can last for decades of modelling. My favourite pair still in daily use was bought in 1987 ...

Edited July 6, 2023 by wefalck

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

2 hours ago, wefalck said:

As to the rotary tool: I would rather look for something with collets; they are less bulky and unless you get something really cheapo with brass collets, their concentricity is much better than that of a chuck.

 

I would also add one or two pin-vises to the list, to hold small parts, but also to hold pins for various operations and small drills.

 

Plus drills, of course. Go for HSS, rather than carbide. Carbide breaks easily when hand-drilling - they are made for drill-stands or milling machines.

 

And perhaps a small archimedean drill, the size of a pin-vise. It is more sensitive and less bulky than a rotary tool for drilling holes < 1 mm.

 

For the rotary tool you may also want a set of carbon-steel and/or diamond burrs with 2.34 mm shaft. They come at moderate prices in sets of different shape and size. As your needs develop, you can upgrade. They wear out anyway over time.

 

For the tweezers, it is better not to buy on-line - one has to check how well the points close and how stiff they are. Bad tweezers can be very frustrating. A good pair, treated well, can last for decades of modelling. My favourite pair still in daily use was bought in 1987 ...

This is great advice, thank you. My rotary tool is on the way, I may be able to return it, but I'm not entirely sure I'm at a point where I'll notice a difference with it. I'm still trying to determine whether pins are a good choice for the hull, or of clamps are better. I know my first model is a getting my feet wet project, but I'd like to know if my approach is one I will stick with. Surely that'll change over time. 

 

The lady Olha whose videos I watch, she uses pins all over her planks, and also seems to use filler blocks regularly. 

 

Anyhow, I imagine I'll discover what tools I truly need as I go. I'll look into the ones you mentioned, thanks again! 

 

Chris

[wefalck]

40 minutes ago, GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH said:

Anyhow, I imagine I'll discover what tools I truly need as I go.

That's a good and cost-effective strategy 👍

[clarkt]

The tool I use virtually every day is my Mitutoyo digital calipers.

[Roger Pellett]

Rotary tools:  I do not use rotary tools for wooden construction for two reasons.

 

First, a mishandled rotary tool can do an enormous amount of damage in an instant, particularly with the soft woods supplied with kits.  Instead I use needle files and very small rifflers whenever possible.

 

Second, hobby grade rotary tools are high speed low torque machines.  They run at MUCH higher speeds than tools designed for drilling.  The centrifugal force created can instantly fling a small wire size drill away from the hole that you are trying to drill.  The archimedes  type drill recommended by Wefalck is a better choice.  If you must use a powered drilling tool, buy one especially designed for this purpose.

 

These recommendations from MSW members, including me, are all influenced by personal work habits sometimes developed over decades.  As such they reflect individual strengths, limitations, and interests.  They may not reflect the, way that you want or are able to work.  Rather than spending a lot more money on tools, I suggest that you get busy building your model and buy additional tools as needed.

 

Roger

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

1 hour ago, Roger Pellett said:

Rotary tools:  I do not use rotary tools for wooden construction for two reasons.

 

First, a mishandled rotary tool can do an enormous amount of damage in an instant, particularly with the soft woods supplied with kits.  Instead I use needle files and very small rifflers whenever possible.

 

Second, hobby grade rotary tools are high speed low torque machines.  They run at MUCH higher speeds than tools designed for drilling.  The centrifugal force created can instantly fling a small wire size drill away from the hole that you are trying to drill.  The archimedes  type drill recommended by Wefalck is a better choice.  If you must use a powered drilling tool, buy one especially designed for this purpose.

 

These recommendations from MSW members, including me, are all influenced by personal work habits sometimes developed over decades.  As such they reflect individual strengths, limitations, and interests.  They may not reflect the, way that you want or are able to work.  Rather than spending a lot more money on tools, I suggest that you get busy building your model and buy additional tools as needed.

 

Roger

Roger, 

 

I suppose I could return the rotary tool for now and stick with some good old fashioned files...makes more sense anyhow. A couple responses above this one you'll see that I am making a decision to save money and not buy too many things. I'd be working on my model like you said, but it'll be here on the 12th or 13th, which is why I figured I'd get the basics before it arrived. 

 

Ask any of my friends and you'll quickly find out I'm pretty darn frugal. Getting fifty bucks back for a tool I nay not need and can put the money to use elsewhere sounds ok in my book. 

 

Thanks again for the wisdom, 

Chris

 

[wefalck]

I bought a basic rotary tool (no fancy ergonomic casings such as on the PROXXON or DREMEL, but very good steel collets) in around 1977 and it still one of my work-horses. Perhaps it is not so much used on wood indeed, but a shipmodel has also a lot of brass fittings that need to be shaped. Grindstones and abrasive discs are for that. Together with needle-files it also served me as a kind of rudimentary lathe before I had a real one. And, yes, I don't use it very often for drilling. Grinding and polishing are the main applications. I wouldn't want to be without it.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  My brother got my dad's old fashioned dental drill machine, with arm segments and a long belt drive.  Having a 90 degree drill head was a boon in mnay tight modeling situations.

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

54 minutes ago, wefalck said:

I bought a basic rotary tool (no fancy ergonomic casings such as on the PROXXON or DREMEL, but very good steel collets) in around 1977 and it still one of my work-horses. Perhaps it is not so much used on wood indeed, but a shipmodel has also a lot of brass fittings that need to be shaped. Grindstones and abrasive discs are for that. Together with needle-files it also served me as a kind of rudimentary lathe before I had a real one. And, yes, I don't use it very often for drilling. Grinding and polishing are the main applications. I wouldn't want to be without it.

I benevolent what simulated me to get one was watching Olhas channel and watching her carve away the planks at the hull where I believe the false hull would sit? In still working on my terminology so hopefully that still makes sense. You are correct that it does indeed have many uses, and for someone like me, understanding when to use it and when not to is a benefit before I damage the kit wood pieces. 

 

Thanks for your inputs,

Chris

 

 

 

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

Looks like my model is due to arrive on the 10th, not the 13th, so that's good news! I remember the excitement of opening a new model as a kid, so the anticipation is fun in and of itself. 

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

12 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  My brother got my dad's old fashioned dental drill machine, with arm segments and a long belt drive.  Having a 90 degree drill head was a boon in mnay tight modeling situations.

That is a great tool, and one I'm sure many people love to hear! 🤣 

Edited July 6, 2023 by GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH

[Bob Cleek]

3 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

These recommendations from MSW members, including me, are all influenced by personal work habits sometimes developed over decades.  As such they reflect individual strengths, limitations, and interests.  They may not reflect the, way that you want or are able to work.  Rather than spending a lot more money on tools, I suggest that you get busy building your model and buy additional tools as needed.

 

Excellent advice from Roger, as usual. Allow me to elaborate a little bit. I live by the maxim, "He who dies with the most tools, wins!" I'm always on the lookout for a tool I need. That said, unless you know you will need it in the future, never buy a tool until you need it and then only buy the best tool you can afford. There are instances where you can get away with cheap tools (Harbor Freight is your friend,) but this is usually a false economy. The most expensive tools are the ones you end up buying more than once. Good tools, especially good hand tools, can last for generations. Stay away from "hobby" sources if you can possibly avoid them. Micro-Mark and Model Expo will often be offering bottom end quality tools at top end prices, and then some. Never overlook the used tool market, as well. There are many bargains to be had searching local "online garage sales" like Craigslist and even eBay, where new and used dental and surgical instruments and tools of varying quality are sold for reasonable prices. 

 

As a general rule, any tool that is marketed as being for use in model shipbuilding will be 1) of poor quality, 2) of questionable usefulness, and 3) a total waste of money. "Choose wisely, Grasshopper." Most of the more useful tools for working in miniature will come from the medical and dental professions and from commercial jewelers' supply houses like Rio Grande (Rio Grande | Wholesale Jewelry Making Supplies & Services - RioGrande) and Otto Frei (OttoFrei.com | Jewelry Tools & Findings Since 1930 — Otto Frei) BTW, Their quality will be higher and their prices often lower. BTW, Otto Frei is currently having an "up to" 20% off sale on Vallorbe Swiss files. The more you buy, the more you save. You will always need Swiss files. The cheap ones from the hobby stores are garbage, though a lot of modelers have never discovered the difference. Real jeweler's files like the quality Vallorbe brand are a different world altogether and, if cared for, last a very long time compared to the cheapo models. You might want to treat yourself to a few.

2 hours ago, GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH said:

Ask any of my friends and you'll quickly find out I'm pretty darn frugal. Getting fifty bucks back for a tool I may not need and can put the money to use elsewhere sounds ok in my book. 

If you're really frugal, you'd do well to get your fifty bucks back for that rotary tool and buy a couple or three Vallorbe Swiss files. I can't imagine a rotary tool worth spending fifty bucks on because at that price point you can be sure it is junk. (Granted, junk can sometimes last a surprisingly long time, but the odds of that happening are very slim.) Moreover, while there is occasionally a use for a high-speed, low torque rotary tool like the Dremel models, they are not well-suited for working on wood. A rotary tool and assorted burrs and grinding stones is always useful and I'd advise it as a first major purchase powered tool for any modeler. Some research will enable you to decide which rotary tool option is best for you. Besides the Dremel, which I wouldn't advise if you are only going to invest in a single rotary tool, there are the hanging flex-shaft machines exemplified by the higher torque Foredom line, and the "dental engines" of varying types, of which the most useful for modeling is the old high torque, low speed belt driven articulated arm models like your dentist used to drill your cavities. A new Foredom basic flex shaft set up and handpieces will set you back at least five hundred bucks. A new dental engine with a handpiece will easily run more than a grand. Not to worry though. There's always the used market. My Foredom flex shaft and two handpieces cost me $75 off Craigslist. It's an older model, but it runs great and is my primary workhorse rotary tool. My brand new Buffalo Dental Co. dental engine with a handpiece cost me $75 off eBay. There's a story that illustrates the value of keeping your eyes open all the time for tool bargains. The dental engine was listed on eBay as a "steampunk decorator piece" with the disclaimer that it would look cool on display but was "inoperable." It looked unused. I found the manufacturer's website, ascertained that the unit looked complete, save for two belt sheaves and the belt, and that parts were available for it. I PM'd the seller to ask about the item's provenance. He said it came from a dental lab that was closing and had a lot of old stuff to get rid of. He said he'd plugged it in, but it didn't run. I decided to buy it for $75 on the off chance that the engine could be repaired. If not, the handpiece was worth $250 used alone, so I could resell that and come out ahead. When I got the machine, I examined it and discovered both brushes had been removed from the motor. Apparently, this was a new unit in the stockroom that had been "cannibalized" for parts at some point. I ordered the two missing sheaves, a belt, and a set of brushes. I installed the parts and the machine ran like new. Score one new $1,250 dental engine and handpiece for $75!  

 

 

A thread about what tools somebody else out to buy could go on forever. There's nothing like spending other people's money.  Without getting further into the weeds discussing specific tool purchases, I'd urge you to do two things.

 

First, there are several Lady Nelson build logs here, some by quite accomplished modelers (Vossiewulf, for one.) Showing results for '"Lady Nelson"'. - Model Ship World™ Go over those build logs and see what tools those who have built your kit before have used and determine whether you need them for your build. If you haven't studied the build logs for your model, you should certainly do so before starting to build anything.

 

Second, if you haven't already, and you expect to spend any time on this hobby, I suggest you start building your research library. That can become a hobby to last a lifetime in itself, but the longest journey begins with a single step. Get yourself a copy of Frank Mastini's book: Ship Modeling Simplified: Tips and Techniques for Model Construction from Kits: Frank Mastini: 9780071558679: Amazon.com: Books  There are used copies of this book all over eBay for less than the twenty bucks it costs new. This is a primer for beginning ship modelers building models from kits. It is very good for what it is. There are other far more sophisticated books on ship modeling which attract the experienced modeler, but for starting out, this one will be quite helpful.

 

Happy modeling!

Edited July 6, 2023 by Bob Cleek

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

34 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

 

Excellent advice from Roger, as usual. Allow me to elaborate a little bit. I live by the maxim, "He who dies with the most tools, wins!" That said, never buy a tool until you need it and then only buy the best tool you can afford. There are instances where you can get away with cheap tools (Harbor Freight is your friend,) but this is usually a false economy. The most expensive tools are the ones you end up buying more than once. Good tools, especially good hand tools, can last for generations. Stay away from "hobby" sources if you can possibly avoid them. MicroMark and other hobby retailers will often be offering bottom end quality tools at top end prices, and then some. Never overlook the used tool market, as well. There are many bargains to be had searching local "online garage sales" like Craigslist and even eBay, where new and used dental and surgical instruments and tools of varying quality are sold for reasonable prices. 

 

Bob,

 

Read you loud and clear. It's funny you mentioned it because I went to both hobby lobby and harbor freight yesterday and came home empty handed. I began to realiE that this hobby is a true craftsman hobby and moat of the tools needed ate far more unique than those stores would have. As a kid I'd ride my bike to the hobby lobby near my house and get testors or the splurge Tamiya paint, but I was very disappointed yesterday. 

 

As someone who loves going to my local antique shop and flea markets, that passion should provide more unique finds moving forward. 

 

The starter stuff I got may not be great, but I bought it as the bare essentials for what I thought I'd get into, and will add to that when the job calls for it. I appreciate your insight.

 

Chris

[Bob Cleek]

39 minutes ago, GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH said:

As a kid I'd ride my bike to the hobby lobby near my house and get testors or the splurge Tamiya paint, but I was very disappointed yesterday. 

 

As someone who loves going to my local antique shop and flea markets, that passion should provide more unique finds moving forward. 

 

Quite so! When you get to thinking about paint, perhaps some of us can convince you to take a pass on super expensive pre-mixed hobby shop paints and mix your own from artists' oils. You'll want an airbrush later on, too, but that's a story for another night.

 

Keep your eyes peeled at those garage sales and flea markets. You just never know when you might trip over an old school jeweler's lathe with all its tooling for a price you can afford or even a Unimat SL or Myford 7 modeler's lathe with attachments and tooling.

[GGibson]

I got a supply of extra thin superfine 0.04 inch toothpicks that I use a LOT for different applications, especially if I want to place a tiny spot of glue... someplace I can't otherwise reach.

 

A mini hand planer to shape masts.

[mtaylor]

When you're ready for sanding and looking for tools to that, have a look at any cosmetic supply store for the flexible fingernail files.   They come in assorted grits and very reasonably prices.   I also use an assortment of downs, wood scraps shaped as needed with some sandpaper glued to them.

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

29 minutes ago, Bob Cleek said:

Quite so! When you get to thinking about paint, perhaps some of us can convince you to take a pass on super expensive pre-mixed hobby shop paints and mix your own from artists' oils. You'll want an airbrush later on, too, but that's a story for another night.

 

Keep your eyes peeled at those garage sales and flea markets. You just never know when you might trip over an old school jeweler's lathe with all its tooling for a price you can afford or even a Unimat SL or Myford 7 modeler's lathe with attachments and tooling.

Mixing paint sounds pretty righteous to me. Channel some Bob Ross with some titanium WHite and beat the devil out of my brushes (carefully).

[jpalmer1970]

Some great advice from lots of people here. I would add that I find many uses for a variety of rubber bands in various thicknesses and lengths, especially when planking the hull. And the same goes for clamps, getting a variety of sizes and widths and reach etc is always helpful and you can never have too many!

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

7 hours ago, jpalmer1970 said:

Some great advice from lots of people here. I would add that I find many uses for a variety of rubber bands in various thicknesses and lengths, especially when planking the hull. And the same goes for clamps, getting a variety of sizes and widths and reach etc is always helpful and you can never have too many!

I've definitely seen this done around the bow and stern sort of where the excess planks are prior to being trimmed. 👍 

[javajohn]

Really great advice here. @jpalmer1970 mentioned rubber bands. I have rubber bands that I cut into strips. I use hemostats to clamp the ends of the bands once I've positioned them.

 

@Bob Cleek mentioned get the best tools you can afford. Take this advice to heart! I kick myself every time I try to save money and go with a cheap tool. I bought a box of cheap plastic clamps that I ended up throwing away because they were more frustrating than useful.

 

I use single-edge razor blades quite a bit. I use them for trimming and to score planks to simulate where the ends meet.

 

 

 

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

I think anybody who recommended Chuck's method and appreciates quality vintage can appreciate this antique store find today. Practically NIB, hope it enjoys its new-found purpose. 

[Bob Cleek]

That travel iron looks like a real antique. I note it was "Made in Japan" long before everything was made in China. It's gotta be sixty years old if it's a day.  

Edited July 7, 2023 by Bob Cleek

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

21 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

 

Excellent advice from Roger, as usual. Allow me to elaborate a little bit. I live by the maxim, "He who dies with the most tools, wins!" I'm always on the lookout for a tool I need. That said, unless you know you will need it in the future, never buy a tool until you need it and then only buy the best tool you can afford. There are instances where you can get away with cheap tools (Harbor Freight is your friend,) but this is usually a false economy. The most expensive tools are the ones you end up buying more than once. Good tools, especially good hand tools, can last for generations. Stay away from "hobby" sources if you can possibly avoid them. Micro-Mark and Model Expo will often be offering bottom end quality tools at top end prices, and then some. Never overlook the used tool market, as well. There are many bargains to be had searching local "online garage sales" like Craigslist and even eBay, where new and used dental and surgical instruments and tools of varying quality are sold for reasonable prices. 

 

As a general rule, any tool that is marketed as being for use in model shipbuilding will be 1) of poor quality, 2) of questionable usefulness, and 3) a total waste of money. "Choose wisely, Grasshopper." Most of the more useful tools for working in miniature will come from the medical and dental professions and from commercial jewelers' supply houses like Rio Grande (Rio Grande | Wholesale Jewelry Making Supplies & Services - RioGrande) and Otto Frei (OttoFrei.com | Jewelry Tools & Findings Since 1930 — Otto Frei) BTW, Their quality will be higher and their prices often lower. BTW, Otto Frei is currently having an "up to" 20% off sale on Vallorbe Swiss files. The more you buy, the more you save. You will always need Swiss files. The cheap ones from the hobby stores are garbage, though a lot of modelers have never discovered the difference. Real jeweler's files like the quality Vallorbe brand are a different world altogether and, if cared for, last a very long time compared to the cheapo models. You might want to treat yourself to a few.

If you're really frugal, you'd do well to get your fifty bucks back for that rotary tool and buy a couple or three Vallorbe Swiss files. I can't imagine a rotary tool worth spending fifty bucks on because at that price point you can be sure it is junk. (Granted, junk can sometimes last a surprisingly long time, but the odds of that happening are very slim.) Moreover, while there is occasionally a use for a high-speed, low torque rotary tool like the Dremel models, they are not well-suited for working on wood. A rotary tool and assorted burrs and grinding stones is always useful and I'd advise it as a first major purchase powered tool for any modeler. Some research will enable you to decide which rotary tool option is best for you. Besides the Dremel, which I wouldn't advise if you are only going to invest in a single rotary tool, there are the hanging flex-shaft machines exemplified by the higher torque Foredom line, and the "dental engines" of varying types, of which the most useful for modeling is the old high torque, low speed belt driven articulated arm models like your dentist used to drill your cavities. A new Foredom basic flex shaft set up and handpieces will set you back at least five hundred bucks. A new dental engine with a handpiece will easily run more than a grand. Not to worry though. There's always the used market. My Foredom flex shaft and two handpieces cost me $75 off Craigslist. It's an older model, but it runs great and is my primary workhorse rotary tool. My brand new Buffalo Dental Co. dental engine with a handpiece cost me $75 off eBay. There's a story that illustrates the value of keeping your eyes open all the time for tool bargains. The dental engine was listed on eBay as a "steampunk decorator piece" with the disclaimer that it would look cool on display but was "inoperable." It looked unused. I found the manufacturer's website, ascertained that the unit looked complete, save for two belt sheaves and the belt, and that parts were available for it. I PM'd the seller to ask about the item's provenance. He said it came from a dental lab that was closing and had a lot of old stuff to get rid of. He said he'd plugged it in, but it didn't run. I decided to buy it for $75 on the off chance that the engine could be repaired. If not, the handpiece was worth $250 used alone, so I could resell that and come out ahead. When I got the machine, I examined it and discovered both brushes had been removed from the motor. Apparently, this was a new unit in the stockroom that had been "cannibalized" for parts at some point. I ordered the two missing sheaves, a belt, and a set of brushes. I installed the parts and the machine ran like new. Score one new $1,250 dental engine and handpiece for $75!  

 

 

A thread about what tools somebody else out to buy could go on forever. There's nothing like spending other people's money.  Without getting further into the weeds discussing specific tool purchases, I'd urge you to do two things.

 

First, there are several Lady Nelson build logs here, some by quite accomplished modelers (Vossiewulf, for one.) Showing results for '"Lady Nelson"'. - Model Ship World™ Go over those build logs and see what tools those who have built your kit before have used and determine whether you need them for your build. If you haven't studied the build logs for your model, you should certainly do so before starting to build anything.

 

Second, if you haven't already, and you expect to spend any time on this hobby, I suggest you start building your research library. That can become a hobby to last a lifetime in itself, but the longest journey begins with a single step. Get yourself a copy of Frank Mastini's book: Ship Modeling Simplified: Tips and Techniques for Model Construction from Kits: Frank Mastini: 9780071558679: Amazon.com: Books  There are used copies of this book all over eBay for less than the twenty bucks it costs new. This is a primer for beginning ship modelers building models from kits. It is very good for what it is. There are other far more sophisticated books on ship modeling which attract the experienced modeler, but for starting out, this one will be quite helpful.

 

Happy modeling!

Bob, 

 

I must have missed the rest of this post, my apologies. I had been looking at some other logs, but vossiewolf is definitely one to look at as his skill level is high, so thank you. I will be returning the rotary tool and invsting in some files, maybe not the Swiss ones right away, but I understand their value. Also, nice finds on ebay! 🏆 

 

Chris

[GRATEFUL LITTLE PHISH]

On 7/6/2023 at 5:00 PM, Bob Cleek said:

 

Excellent advice from Roger, as usual. Allow me to elaborate a little bit. I live by the maxim, "He who dies with the most tools, wins!" I'm always on the lookout for a tool I need. That said, unless you know you will need it in the future, never buy a tool until you need it and then only buy the best tool you can afford. There are instances where you can get away with cheap tools (Harbor Freight is your friend,) but this is usually a false economy. The most expensive tools are the ones you end up buying more than once. Good tools, especially good hand tools, can last for generations. Stay away from "hobby" sources if you can possibly avoid them. Micro-Mark and Model Expo will often be offering bottom end quality tools at top end prices, and then some. Never overlook the used tool market, as well. There are many bargains to be had searching local "online garage sales" like Craigslist and even eBay, where new and used dental and surgical instruments and tools of varying quality are sold for reasonable prices. 

 

As a general rule, any tool that is marketed as being for use in model shipbuilding will be 1) of poor quality, 2) of questionable usefulness, and 3) a total waste of money. "Choose wisely, Grasshopper." Most of the more useful tools for working in miniature will come from the medical and dental professions and from commercial jewelers' supply houses like Rio Grande (Rio Grande | Wholesale Jewelry Making Supplies & Services - RioGrande) and Otto Frei (OttoFrei.com | Jewelry Tools & Findings Since 1930 — Otto Frei) BTW, Their quality will be higher and their prices often lower. BTW, Otto Frei is currently having an "up to" 20% off sale on Vallorbe Swiss files. The more you buy, the more you save. You will always need Swiss files. The cheap ones from the hobby stores are garbage, though a lot of modelers have never discovered the difference. Real jeweler's files like the quality Vallorbe brand are a different world altogether and, if cared for, last a very long time compared to the cheapo models. You might want to treat yourself to a few.

If you're really frugal, you'd do well to get your fifty bucks back for that rotary tool and buy a couple or three Vallorbe Swiss files. I can't imagine a rotary tool worth spending fifty bucks on because at that price point you can be sure it is junk. (Granted, junk can sometimes last a surprisingly long time, but the odds of that happening are very slim.) Moreover, while there is occasionally a use for a high-speed, low torque rotary tool like the Dremel models, they are not well-suited for working on wood. A rotary tool and assorted burrs and grinding stones is always useful and I'd advise it as a first major purchase powered tool for any modeler. Some research will enable you to decide which rotary tool option is best for you. Besides the Dremel, which I wouldn't advise if you are only going to invest in a single rotary tool, there are the hanging flex-shaft machines exemplified by the higher torque Foredom line, and the "dental engines" of varying types, of which the most useful for modeling is the old high torque, low speed belt driven articulated arm models like your dentist used to drill your cavities. A new Foredom basic flex shaft set up and handpieces will set you back at least five hundred bucks. A new dental engine with a handpiece will easily run more than a grand. Not to worry though. There's always the used market. My Foredom flex shaft and two handpieces cost me $75 off Craigslist. It's an older model, but it runs great and is my primary workhorse rotary tool. My brand new Buffalo Dental Co. dental engine with a handpiece cost me $75 off eBay. There's a story that illustrates the value of keeping your eyes open all the time for tool bargains. The dental engine was listed on eBay as a "steampunk decorator piece" with the disclaimer that it would look cool on display but was "inoperable." It looked unused. I found the manufacturer's website, ascertained that the unit looked complete, save for two belt sheaves and the belt, and that parts were available for it. I PM'd the seller to ask about the item's provenance. He said it came from a dental lab that was closing and had a lot of old stuff to get rid of. He said he'd plugged it in, but it didn't run. I decided to buy it for $75 on the off chance that the engine could be repaired. If not, the handpiece was worth $250 used alone, so I could resell that and come out ahead. When I got the machine, I examined it and discovered both brushes had been removed from the motor. Apparently, this was a new unit in the stockroom that had been "cannibalized" for parts at some point. I ordered the two missing sheaves, a belt, and a set of brushes. I installed the parts and the machine ran like new. Score one new $1,250 dental engine and handpiece for $75!  

 

 

A thread about what tools somebody else out to buy could go on forever. There's nothing like spending other people's money.  Without getting further into the weeds discussing specific tool purchases, I'd urge you to do two things.

 

First, there are several Lady Nelson build logs here, some by quite accomplished modelers (Vossiewulf, for one.) Showing results for '"Lady Nelson"'. - Model Ship World™ Go over those build logs and see what tools those who have built your kit before have used and determine whether you need them for your build. If you haven't studied the build logs for your model, you should certainly do so before starting to build anything.

 

Second, if you haven't already, and you expect to spend any time on this hobby, I suggest you start building your research library. That can become a hobby to last a lifetime in itself, but the longest journey begins with a single step. Get yourself a copy of Frank Mastini's book: Ship Modeling Simplified: Tips and Techniques for Model Construction from Kits: Frank Mastini: 9780071558679: Amazon.com: Books  There are used copies of this book all over eBay for less than the twenty bucks it costs new. This is a primer for beginning ship modelers building models from kits. It is very good for what it is. There are other far more sophisticated books on ship modeling which attract the experienced modeler, but for starting out, this one will be quite helpful.

 

Happy modeling!

Bob, I picked up that book used on Amazon for $10, and a used copy of planking techniques on ebay for $6. The one you recommended will be here tomorrow, so that'll be a nice read as I (patiently) wait for my model to arrive. Thanks again for the advice. 

 

Chris

[GrandpaPhil]

For myself, my primary kit consists of a scalpel, a razor saw, a good pin vise with a swivel head, various tweezers, various sandpapers, a couple machinist scales (metric and imperial), a steel ruler, diagonal cutters, pliers, steel pins, clamps, a self healing mat, a good pair of scissors and a couple of coping saws.

 

I do not typically use power tools with the exception of a regular electric drill that I use for larger holes, like masts.

 

Power tools can save time, but if they slip, they can do a lot of damage very quickly.

 

For glues, I primarily use a max-cure CA and Mont Marte PVA glue that I bought off Amazon.

 

 

[stuglo]

2 essentials for any modeler: --you can source EXPERIENCE on this website, but I am still searching for PATIENCE

[wefalck]

Absolutely, patience is the most essential ingredient ... many problems people struggle with arise from the lack of patience, from wanting quick solutions ... you are not doing it to get it ready fast, but to do a good job.