HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/72

[Kevin]

Finished the fitting of the shrouds on the foremast lower, and made a jig to keep the dead eyes at more or less the same distance, but raised them slightly higher than the plans suggest - looks as if they are higher in real life and some of the other builds i follow

[fifthace]

Hiya Kevin.

 

Before you get too much further, can I suggest you make a wee tool for spacing the deadeyes evenly?

 

 

 

Edit: oh just noticed you already have lol sorry.

Edited July 26, 2015 by fifthace

[Kevin]

anyone any good ideas for getting some decent indoor phots of my build - the mancave is proving very hard to get decent shots due to cluuter, and not the best lighting

[fifthace]

Looks good Kevin. I had a look at the plans and you are right, the deadeyes are too low down.

 

The reason your pics are coming out like that is the window behind the ship, it's blinding the camera.

Best sort of lighting for this is the sort of strip lights you get in a kitchen, but generaly try to make sure your light is behind the camera or directly above the object you are photographing but out of the lens' field of vision.

[Kevin]

Foremast lower shrouds done on both sides, too white and too fluffy 

 

this was always going to be a temp fit, the mast needs painting and the forward cannons need securing - and you know what - i am loving it -  i am so back into this build took the day off work to do those on the port side

 

[Ensign]

Hello Kevin,

Could you please tell me the spacing you have used for your deadeye rigging on the shrouds. If the plans show them too low I would like to know what yours is to get some idea of where they should be.

 

Thanks

Gary

[Kevin]

Gary i used approx a 3 deadeye gap between the eyes - research shows this was about 3 to 3 1/2 when setting up

[clearway]

i always start rigging with the mizzen mast first working upwards and forwards (easier for rigging the forestays )

[Kevin]

i always start rigging with the mizzen mast first working upwards and forwards (easier for rigging the forestays )

Yes i appreciate your comment thankyou - all the mast will be removed again on completion of the shrouds being fitted - i will then work from aft as they go back in after i have finished all the work that needs to be done or re done i also need to ensure all that all the fitting are in place as they are going to be very hard to get too with 37 sails to be fitted.

This is me wanting a decent restart to get back into the build

[Ensign]

Thanks Kevin. I must post some more photos of my progress soon, been a little remiss in that area, too busy on the build and with other things.

 

Gary

[Kevin]

Serving

 

Well made progress last weekend - lol took it all apart again today - it was pointed out to me that i had missed the serving on the lead Shroud down top the dead eye  - and where all the ropes pass the the tops - and as i delved deeper it than became apparent that the pendants were as well

this is my attempt at the pendants 

they are to long at present and need attaching to - (what ever it is called - hole thing)

 

[Jerry]

Hello kevin..

Just checking in to see your progress and it looks excellent.  I hope you're really enjoygf this phase because this part of the construction on the Victory really requires patience.  I really love the way you're going ; keep up the good work.

Best,

Jerry

[Kevin]

Good evening Jerry thank you- the break away has done me good - I must admit i was a bit miffed about the lack of serving on the shrouds - had contemplated not bothering to change it, as no one is ever go to get close to seeing the shrouds, once the stuns are fitted, - but I need to do it right, - its all practice for my next built

[Jerry]

Yeah, Kevin..but you will know if you didn't do it right.  Since serving Victory I think about doing the stays and shrouds that way for every other build I take on.  I'm trying to pick my next build but have been coaching the admiral on hers.  She's building the Bounty.  One of these days I'll pick something.

Well, talk to you soon.

Best,

Jerry

[Kevin]

Not much to show for all the hours i put in on redoing the first pair of shrouds on each side of the build, there is definitely a knack to serving, i seam to need 3 arms to do it - it may have taken me a long time to get this far, but evolution is not going to give me another arm before i finish, so i used a combination of the motor from the rope walk and the hand serving tool and did it that way -  having the rope turning for me allowed me to feed the thread - and i got better as i went along

 

pendants (burton i think) 

 

[mobbsie]

Hi Kevin,

 

Big improvement mate, serving's not easy but it does get easier with practice, the trick is to keep an even tension and keep the turns tight on themselves.

 

Looking at the 4th picture you seem to have some major furry going there, could you try some beeswax to reduce it, rather than redo.

 

Just an idea mate.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[Kevin]

Hi Mobsie 

 

i can see a slight improvement in my skills for this, but furry is an understatement - more hair than the wabbits ( now laughing at what i just typed) 

 

so i will try beeswax - or try again just for the hell of it 

 

foremast stay preventer (i think) 

 

mouse is the animal of the day 

 

[Kevin]

tonight she looks like this 

[Jerry]

Looks pretty profesional to me.....Nice work kevin.

Best,

Jerry

[Kevin]

Oh Jerry - thank-you - LOL-Just wish i thought the same- every knot i tie - i look at and think could it be done better - every rope look like it is waering an animal skin (a very fluffy one) - but im loving it this is the most fun i have had  on this build

Edited August 2, 2015 by Kevin

[mort stoll]

Hi Kevin,

 

Try painting a light coat of  "Elmers School Glue". That should remove any fuzzies.

 

Mort 

[Kevin]

Mort  is that the same as pulling all the thread through cloth soaked with a diluted pva solution prior to using 

[Shipyard sid]

Wonderful work. Yep the rigging phase is without doubt the most enjoyable. Cracking bowsprit photo. Well done. DAVID

[shihawk]

Just wanted to thank you for your superb log ,have found it most helpfull in figuring out masts and rigging  .Just a thought , have you considered Beeswax on the thread ?

 

Boyd

[Jerry]

Couldn't help but add my two cents on what Boyd said..I used Bees wax on all rigging lines, served or not, because of the success I had with it on my first build, the Cuttysark, 18 years ago.  There has never been a drop of dust on any threads from day one.  True, the model is encased now but was free standing for 6 months before being covered.  My Half Moon, finished last April, has never been covered and the rigging is still dust free.  Yep, go ahead and use Bees wax...

Best,

Jerry

[mort stoll]

Hi Kevin,

 

Yes it is, however with that said I do run my threads through beeswax 4-6 times and if necessary then I use the Elmer's School Glue.

 

Mort 

[Kevin]

Not as much achieved as i wanted done over the weekend - gardening and DIY dominated But I did go ahead and decide to put the foremast in as a (not going to take back out again) 

think i have cracked the fuzzines issue by using the pva solution beeswax is still on its way from amazon after a week 

have the day off from work so hope to tie off the lanyards and look at the cathapins

 

a change of thread and pva solution 

 

 

[mtaylor]

The lanyards are looking great, Kevin.

[Kevin]

moving up the shrouds I fitted the futtock shrouds and started the futtock shrouds - sorry for the poor picture - then a couple after I took her into the sunshine

 

[Jerry]

Hello Kevin...

Nice to see your progress.  When I opened the kit and took inventory, I wondered why there were so many brass hooks.  And when I was nearing completion most of the "hjooks" were gone.  So besides the futtock shrouds you'll find that these hooks are used a lot.  Your workmanship continues to be top notch and I'm sincerely enjoying watching your progress. (nice looking house, by the way)

Best,

Jerry