Rattlesnake by JPett - Model Shipways - Scale 1/64th - Kit #MS2028

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

 

Sport: There will be treenails galore

 

Martin: I think Hahn has the right idea. Rock beats scissors, looks cover scale

 

Sinan: I find virtual reality a great place to check my ideas.  

 

Back to the build:

 

After many trials and tribulations, I am posting my new procedure on planking for review. My hope is to document it here in this log so when I approach this stage on my next build I have a reference. As I am still learning this version which is now 2.0 will I am sure become 2.1, 2.2, and so forth.

 

First, I roughly cut a plank from stock, at least one bulkhead longer then required. I also do not use the same stock for the following plank on this strake. On future builds I might consider lying out and numbering planks (similar to what is done with tiles) to have some control over the pattern in the hull. Forming a plank longer then needed and cutting it back after bending/shaping it causes it to lay on the hull in a way that better transitions to the following plank in that strake. This was not true for planks first cut to exact length.

 

Next, I place a vertical line at each bulkhead position on the plank. An arrow is added on the plank along with its strake number and the last bulkhead letter. The arrow faces the deck with this side trued using a flat sanding block, done with the plank mounted in the cutter. A slight taper added to this edge to reduce the seam between the next strake. This side is only changed in extreme circumstances such as the narrow width required at bulkhead at Bulkhead “K” and “L” on my current build. Otherwise, it is untouched to provide a known surface for the following strake/plank.

 

The measurements used to mark plank widths on the hull are transcribed (via tic marks) to the plank at the bulkhead locations (vertical lines). I have a cheat sheet. The plank then placed in the plank cutter. After carefully aligning these tick marks, I secure the plank in the cutter; for difficult cuts I position the tick marks at or near the bolt locations to facilitate the bend.  After cut, it is test fitted and this cut side is now sanded, also at an angle to reduce any seam. Due to the curve cut in the plank, this sanding is done by hand with a shorter block. The vertical bulkhead lines create an easy reference to the areas needing additional sanding, preventing the thinning of areas not needing it.

 

Next, the plank goes in the soaking pipe for no less then fifteen minutes. Enough time to cut the next plank, take a break or perform some other task. After soaking, it is affixed to the hull to dry noting the method needed to make the plank comply. This same method being repeated to glue the plank to the hull (in most cases). I prefer sideways pressure to downward. Sideways pressure reduces seams and for most planks is sufficient to hold it in place. A hole is drilled in the excess length; this end pinned to its bulkhead. I have found I can have up to three planks drying on the hull at one time.

 

Once dry the plank is cut to the correct length and checked. This end cut also having a slight angle to reduce any seams. Any additional sanding to keep the plank on the lines is done at this time (the entire hull was marked for every strake) If everything looks good, the plank is glued to the hull. I usually bat about 650 here.

 

This is a slow procedure; but a relaxed and enjoyable one. Each plank treated as its own small project. I only do one strake at a time; doing the strake on the opposite side as planks are soaking or drying on the other side . The bow and stern done first with planks fitted between.

 

You can see by the following pic that Belt “C” is almost complete. We are on the home stretch “Yeah baby”  

 

 

 

 

Comments are most welcome and appreciated

Edited April 13, 2013 by JPett

[Trussben]

Good to see you pounding along again, won't be long until you finish covering her bones.

 

Ben

[russ]

It is good that you have a system that works for you in planking. It appears to be very organized and that is always a good thing. I agree that pinning the soaked plank to the hull is a good idea. I have never soaked a plank that long, but if it is working for you, then stick with it.

 

Russ

[augie]

Sounds like you've got a system!

[Blue Ensign]

Planking is looking good JP, I also like to work from keel up and wale down with hopefully any spiles appearing on the underside of the hull.

 

Thinking through your system is most of the battle.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[patrickmil]

JP, I'm excited to see you so close the the finish line with your planking. You have applied so much care to the planking that your efforts are going to look extraordinary when the Rattlesnake is finished.

[Martin W]

Hi JPett -- having a system, as the others have said, is the best procedure, though sticking to it can be a surprising challenge.  I think you're right to use sideways pressure:  those seams can present tricky problems, suddenly growing wide where you'd least expected.  Since I blackened the edges of my planking, those gaping seams would become all the more apparent, and would also make me see those little flaws in the bulkheads that hadn't been noticeable before.  Have you put aside your heat gun for this stage?  I noticed you asked  about double planking in another log, so I thought I'd mention that I'd done double planking on my previous build, but on the R-Snake used basswood fillers between the bulkheads so that I had a base for the strakes all along the hull.

 

Keep at it, man -- I'm looking forward to your progress.

 

Martin

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Thank you all for stopping by and your comments  

 

Ben: When I feel like pounding, I just walk away “lol”

 

Russ: I had a good laugh reading your reply. I soak planks so long mold grows (see my bleaching post). I might have to rethink this

 

Augie: It is more of an idea. Just a little more thought out then the previous one.

 

Blue: My problem is I just cannot stop thinking about it. I see no end.

 

Patrick: I am hoping so. If not, I double plank.

 

Martin: I find it works for most but agree that putting it in stone would be a mistake. I am using a Prismacolor Metallic Gold pencil for my hull caulk lines. I used a standard #2 on the transom, will use black paper on the deck, another color on the bulwark seams and others for the treenails. I would like some things subtle, others sharp, depending on where they are on the build. Deduct another point from the scale card “lol”. As for the heat gun, just used it the other day to fix a plank in the stern. I use it mostly for repairs "mostly".

 

Back to the Build:  

 

The last strake in Belt “C” is starting to show signs of Clinkering. It looks like all the bow planks in belt “B” will need spiling. I have 9/16” in the bow and five more strakes that I need to fit there. That gives me 3.5/32nds per (7/64ths) which is plenty. In the stern, I have to redo the measurements on the sternpost. I will post pics of this and cover the problems I had on Belt “C” in my next post. I am not sure it there is a problem at the sternpost “yet”, but there is some concern.

Edited April 15, 2013 by JPett

[augie]

I have to say, JP, you're having fun with this one!

[JPett]

Ahoy Augie

 

The jeans are still my favorite.

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

I am still struggling to compensate for the fact that planks cut at less then or greater then 90 degrees measure greater across the cut then the width of the plank. I also think there is something I am not “getting” when it comes to marking the plank positions on the complex curves at the stern. I have brought the Ratt into PS and am posting a pic. I do this when things in the real world just do not make sense or need to be checked. Checking them in a world where there is one less dimension, infinite and instant ‘redos”, works for me.

 

I have highlighted the fact that there is enough room for the needed planks even though my ticks marks say otherwise. Comparing the plank widths I see that I can reduce S8,9, and 13 slightly and maintain an even plank width across this entire area. I would prefer not to have a plank I call “Olive Oil’ on this build: Sorry Popeye.

 

I am also considering a change in my planking method. I will not be doing belt “B” in strakes but sections. I believe I can completely fill in the stern on belt “B”. I will try this first without gluing any planks. If successful, I will go back and glue them in; then move to the bow. Due to the spiling that is needed in the bow, I have to glue each plank as it is made. This because they become so thin if I sand them to the needed width off the hull they can and do break. The entire midsection will be filled in last.

 

What I am also liking about this method is the last plank in each section does not have to be in the same strake as the other "last ones". My hope is by breaking up the filler strake it is less noticable.

 

Tiny is my new “oversized” concentric pin. Wish I had made her three months ago. There is no arguing with her.

 

 

Comments welcome, especially if this is a “really bad idea”.

Edited April 17, 2013 by JPett

[hopeful]

Enjoyed reading through your entire log this evening. What a fine job you are doing JP!  Will continue to follow from here. Lots to learn from your build. Nothing like a good cam now and again, eh?

 

Wish you well as you move along.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted  to the Gallery

 

Current: Sultana (MSW)

Current: Phantom (MSW)

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited April 17, 2013 by hopeful

[sport29652]

Thanks for the cannon pic's I hope to put those to good use.

[russ]

I am not sure what to tell you on this planking issue except that you need to use the method that works for you. Dry fitting the planks to check their fit is a good idea.

 

Russ

[Blue Ensign]

From the photos the planking looks fine to me, fortunately Rattlesnake doesn't appear to have much sheer and is not too bluff in the bows both of which present slightly more complex planking issues.

 

You can see best how to proceed, but these are the basic rules I follow.

 

Never taper a plank to less than half its width.

 

Use long tapers not short.

 

Never force a plank laterally, use stealers say at the stern where  a gap may appear.

 

If the taper at the bow looks to be getting too sharp use drop planks or  spiled planks.

 

Have wider plank widths to hand to accommodate spiling, trouble with kits is they generally only provide one width, I always buy extra sizes.

 

I like to plank from both keel up and wale down and aim to have any remaining oddly shaped plank requiring spiling appear on the underside of the hull.

 

Stick with it JP, you're nearly there.

 

B.E.

 

[texxn5]

Hi JP, I've just read your log....looks good, and the pictures and discriptions wil greatly help me get my Morgan started. It seems they are quite similar in construction, so this will really help. Thanks for your encouragment, and I look forward to your posts. I got my log started today, and hopefully will be adding pictures and progress reports soon. Keep up the good work....the link is: "C.W. Morgan - by - Texxn5 JohnF - MS - 1:64 Kit" I hope to get started on the actual ship maybe today or tomorrow.

[vas1949]

Reading your log and looking at your pictures has help me a great deal. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

 

Best Vern

[modelshipwright]

You sound like me when I was planking my SOS. You will get through it and all will work out fine in the end. Nice work.

 

Regards,

Bill

[popeye the sailor]

hey there JP.......just wanted to say how nice your planking looks.  Experimenting and dry fit is the best way to see what will work.  you've gotten a lot of good advice.  stick with it....your doing a great job! 

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Thanks for stopping by

 

David: I use the Cannon 40D and love it. Had an original D30 and also own a 10D

 

Eric: NP, It was posted on my original site and a big help to me

 

Russ: I’m going for it.  

 

Blue: Thanks, great post

 

Tex: Welcome aboard

 

Vern: Thank you

 

Bill: Does this mean I’ll be carving a beautiful figurehead too

 

Popeye: Welcome aboard

 

Back to the build:

 

Well I do not have any excuses. I put the plank on and right away knew it was wrong. So what do you do?  Put the next one on in hopes that it would make it go away of course “lol”

 

That is my story and I am sticking with it

 

Needless to say, they had to go. I used a 50/50 mix of 99% isopropyl alcohol and hot water. After soaking it for about two minutes, I brought in the big guns (RC heat gun). Using a paintbrush, I continued painting on my mixture while heating the surface. When I could smell the glue, I started pulling of the planks. Well kind of ripping and I did damage one when using my Xacto knife seems like a good idea. The knife was a bad idea and was in the end, not needed. Because the first plank in the strake was almost completely glued to the filler, there was some reservation but after some heat, it came right off. Back to Spiling

 

Pics show before, during, the repair (it will look better with a plank on top of it) and after

 

The stern is almost closed. pics soon

Edited April 23, 2013 by JPett

[sport29652]

Almost there ! I am slowing down to hopefully copy your hull work. I am a little lazy though so ill count on you for the picture perfect hull. I think I'll be the ugly step sister

[augie]

You're a pefectionist JP.  Never give up!

[Martin W]

JPett -- Ah, those planks look better and better!  Seeing the care you take with the planking makes me want to go back and start all over (but I guess that's why there are other models to build, right?)  Really, though, your attention to detail is inspiring -- and the thing is, those details tend to show up more in photos than in reality.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[bhermann]

I am also considering a change in my planking method. I will not be doing belt “B” in strakes but sections. I believe I can completely fill in the stern on belt “B”. I will try this first without gluing any planks. If successful, I will go back and glue them in; then move to the bow. Due to the spiling that is needed in the bow, I have to glue each plank as it is made. This because they become so thin if I sand them to the needed width off the hull they can and do break. The entire midsection will be filled in last.

 

 

 

JP - On the surface this sounds like a recipe for trouble.  I could picture myself doing the bow section followed by the stern section, and when I got to tye midships section having a different number of strakes on either side, resulting in having to put a drop plank or stealer amidships!  With the amount of planning and attention to detail you are putting into this, I'm sure you won't have any such issues.  Remember this is from someone who wound up with a pretty weird looking plank in the middle of my hull and consider the source.

 

Thanks to your detailed description and documentation of the process, I'm sure my next project will turn out much better and more life-like.  thanks for putting in the time and effort it takes to provide this useful information!

 

Bob

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates

 

Eric: Don’t count your chickens and there is always, filler, paint or another layer of planks. In the end, it is only a hobby.

 

Augie: We both know what happens on this build when I let things go. Here it would have included a paint color and we know that is not the goal.

 

Martin: I like the new pic size too. The new image size is 1600 by 1200. I might go slightly smaller as this size is kind of “overwhelming”

 

Bob: I think my problem is I never fitted a plank. I have a concern that when I get there I will find that I could have done something to have made this easier. Worst, that I did something to make it harder. I have already made another change to this plan by completing two more strakes reducing the number of remaining strakes. I will now attempt to close up the stern with only three strakes remaining. Russ’s comment tipped me off. I have learned there is much wisdom in those words. I should also add that it was reading your first log in MSW 1.0 that inspired me to make my log as helpful to others as possible. Thank you.

 

Further notes:

 

What I have learned here is; “when you plank, errors grow”. Just as with many other aspects of shipbuilding, what you do now, effects what you do next. I would have spent an hour or two dealing with this later, either by fitting planks made harder by the line this would have introduced or trying to even it out over the next few strakes. I chose to just spend the time now and fix it. It is a fine line “yes” and there might be a complimentary snack or two along the road but: It seems there are no free lunches for the shipbuilder. Just my two cents.

Edited April 23, 2013 by JPett

[fish]

JP,

 

This is one of the best planking jobs I have witnessed on this site, you have done a great job and given other builders a great resource.

 

-Aaron

[russ]

From what I can see in the photos, your planking is coming along very well. Nice attention to the details. That is what makes the difference. Good work.

 

Russ

[hopeful]

Hey JP,

 

Thanks for putting in the time to create a terrific "how to" log, especially when it some to planking. Very well done. Will look at your work over and over when i construct my Lady Nelson.  Its good to have someone pave the way. Makes it easy on the rest of us. I also look often at the Russ's Biloxi Schooner build for "how to" info. Lots to learn there, too

 

Keep moving......

 

BFN,

Hopeful aka David

 

"there is wisdom in many voices"

[themadchemist]

Hey JP,

Just catching up on my reading. While so many logs were being caught up after the crash it was hard to keep up. Went through you log last night start to finish again. Your doing a fantastic job planking. You planking philosophy is so similar to mine.

I love the rhythm of planking, and the beauty of it when its done correctly. Beautiful work! Great symmetry. Nice, tight and she fits the rabbet well.

Don't know if you, like me, dread laying that last plank. Rather then relief I was sad to be done. But still like having that complete smooth hull to fondle.

[fish]

He said "fondle", I think you might have a problem Keith