HMS Victory by gil middleton - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:72

[capnharv2]

Hi Gil,

 

Thanks for bringing your Victory log back! She is really a beauty.

 

And thanks for your posting on hammock netting, since I'm going to be doing that on the Constitution in the near future. I do have a couple of questions.

 

1) Does your netting go one piece across the bottom, or is there an inboard and outboard piece of netting?

 

2) I like your idea of using the annealed wire at the top of the netting. But, in the last picture, the inboard wire looks a lot thicker than the outboard wire. Is that a trick of perspective?

 

Thanks again!

 

Harvey

[popeye the sailor]

also glad th see your build up as well..........such a superb ship to follow.

[romiol]

Hi Gil

 

Thanks a lot for loading up again all your great pictures and especially all the drawings you made. It will be a great help for all modelers!

 

Cheers,

Rosmarie

[gil middleton]

Harvey, Popeye, Lawrence, Rosmarie and Grant. It's nice to hear from each of you and see the build logs coming back to life.  There are still some wonderful  logs that haven't reappeared, however, I'm only about half done sorting and posting, so perhaps most will reappear.  Cheers, Gil

[Kevin]

Thank-you Gil

[gil middleton]

11.    BOW

 

Continuing in my attempt to recover the build log by arranging photographs for each area of the build.  The bow has a striking beauty that was missing in the late 1800's and early 1900's.  We've all seen pictures when the Victory's bow was boxed in creating a rather ugly entry to the water. The transmogrification with the restoration is what makes building the Victory (at Trafalgar) so much fun.

 

Building the roundhouses. Vertical planks were glued and sanded.

 

Starboard round house faired and painted.

 

Once again, an example of the color change observed with flash photography.

 

Attempting to drill the porthole, the round house was shattered. Rather like being hit by a 12 pounder. A small pilot hole followed by a rotating abrasive worked better.

 

Fortunately, the ship's carpenter was at hand.

 

Forward grating

 

Head timbers placed

 

Forming false rails, contoured by soldering iron and curved wood plank bender.

 

Compound curve

 

Building the Catheads. Base bevelled to the angle of the catheads. The three strips of lighter wood in each are temporary spacers for the sheeves.

 

Horizontal supports glued in place.

 

Figurehead.  Parts were hand painted and look OK.  To see what is possible, look at Daniel's log (Dafi) who made individual lions to place on the crest.

 

More details on the bow will be added with the post on the Bow Sprit and rigging. Cheers, Gil

[gil middleton]

12.     STERN

 

When the stern details were added, my wife said  "It's beginning to look like a real ship."  A rewarding comment after four years. But on with the build.

 

The inner layer of the stern fascia.  Outboard windows are the quarter galleries.  Inner openings were painted white to try to achieve an appearance of depth, while the central white board was then painted black.

 

Back side of outer fascia. Experimenting.  Placing the windows from behind (opposite from instructions) gave much better definition to windows.

 

Initial painting.

 

Deep fascia painted around the windows

 

Black painted using fine line masking, then touch up with reverse masking.

 

Ballisters painted yellow ochre before glueing in place.Horizontal black above and below windows is styrene strip painted black before glueing.  Spacers between windows ; styrene, painted black.

 

Painting stern decoration (was not on Victory at Trafalgar)

 

Glueing stern fascia in place.

 

Tying the fascia (transome) to the counter of the hull required cross planking.

 

Details added. Camera angle made appearance of stern look square. See next photos.

 

Real ship, quarter view

 

Natural light photo

 

Rudder.  Small addition to trailing edge to raise chain attachment above the waterline.

 

Preparing for copper plates

 

"Nails" placed by ponce wheel

 

Pintles and gudgeons.

 

Pintles and gudgeons. "Bolts" are small rivets (0.035") placed in drill holes.

 

[gil middleton]

13.    ANCHORS

 

Preparing anchor components. adding iron bands and wrapping the anchor rings.

[gil middleton]

14.    BOW SPRIT

 

The bow sprit and its rigging is logged as one section. It required tapering along with the yards.  The following is a simple rig for sanding and tapering a dowel (picked up from Donny. However, he has moved on to a much better  lathe). 

Making the gammoning saddles. The dowel is cut half way through.

Approximately, 1/2 of the dowel removed.

Drawing angled cuts.

Hollowing out the half dowel.

Cutting on the angle.

Glueing elevations to create saddles

Tapered dowel, "iron" bands, and gammoning saddles.

Tenon for cap

Added stop cleats for rigging, bees and cap

Bow Sprit, Jib boom and Flying jib boom.

Jib boom at cap

Flying jib boom bracket on jib boom

Sorting out the congestion and somewhat confusing rigging on the bow sprit. (plans from JoTika)

Fitting blocks and deadeyes to the bow sprit

Rigging the bobstays

Bobstays served and spliced through the stem

Close up of bobstay attachment at stem (cutwater).

Attaching shrouds to hull eyebolts. Shrouds served at bolts.

Bobstays and shrouds at bow sprit.

Gammoning the bow sprit. Inner, outer and flying martindales attached by lashing to eyebolt on knightheads.

A trick to simpliy gammoning. Daniel (Dafi) would simply have one of his little men stationed in the bow timbers to pass the line through. Lacking the Lilipution crew, painting the gammoning line with C/A creates a long thread needle to pass the line through the bow timbers.

Dolphin striker

Flag staff

Yard slung by served sling with lashing

Forestay and preventer attached at bow sprit by served collars with lashings (details in rigging section)

Forestay and preventer attached. Topmast stay and preventer passing through sheeves in the bees.

Topmast stay and preventer terminate at lower lashings at the starboard and port knightheads.

Overview of bowsprit and guys.

[gil middleton]

15.    MASTS

 

Rake of the masts. Foremast 0 degrees,  Mainmast slight and Mizzen more.

 

Lower masts are tapered athwartships but not fore and aft.  This is a simple jig for shaping the masts.

 

Dowel in the jig to progressively plane down the sides.  Small Stanley plane at left. The nail glued through a hole in the near end simply prevents rotation and ensures the same parallel planing to the opposite side.

Foremast narrowed side to side. "Iron bands" (styrene) placed with cheeks over.  Squared top with tenon for mast cap. Preparing fore top with styrene strips.

 

Side view of foremast and under side of fore top

 

Top of foremast

Foremast with cheeks

 

Foremast. Additional "iron bands" over cheeks and vertcal batten along the forward side of the mast separating the lower yard from the mast.

 

Side view of foremast.  Dowel for main mast above

 

Details of mast

 

Fore top and main top. Actually black, however, flash photo changes color to brown

 

Foremast with fore top

 

Lower masts with tops.

 

Adding battens and iron bands to squared end

 

Battens and deadeyes.

 

Adding top mast

 

Top mast and topgallant mast

 

Top mast, hand mast and bolsters for shrouds

 

Topgallant mast to top mast.  Eight sided portions by sanding block

 

Blocks previously sanded, then stained "English Oak"

 

Attaching blocks

 

At top mast

 

At topgallant mast

Rigging a blumb bob to set the rake of the masts

 

Ready at last for the standing rigging

 

Edited February 24, 2013 by gil middleton

[WackoWolf]

Excellent work Gil, I remember this from before and am glad to be able to see it again.

[gil middleton]

Thanks Kevin and Joe.  I know this is all old stuff and it takes a while to redo the build site.  With any luck, I'll get to new photos in a few days.  cheers, Gil

[gil middleton]

16.    STANDING RIGGING

 

For those who haven't yet rigged a full ship, a few thoughts might be in order.  For those who have, my apologies for the redundancy. My most valuable aid in rigging is the Lazy Susan to swing the ship back and forth while installing and tensioning shrouds and stays.

 

Another is a means of serving shrouds at the mast tops, the leading shroud at each mast and portions of the stays.  This is a simple rig from "Ships Ahoy" models.

 

Some form of third hand is virtually mandatory for complex splices, rigging blocks, adding a running line to blocks, etc.

 

My instruments concist of a heavy duty needle driver with cross serrations in the jaws for grasping (left), a fine smooth jaw needle holder for fine instrument ties (2nd from left),  angled forceps that can reach just about anywhere and sharp serrated scissors that will cut on the knot.  One hears comments such as "I hate C/A" or "Of course one can't usa C/A in the rigging."  I aggree with Ed Tosti, with his magnificent scratch built Victory, that there are rigging challenges that I could not do without it. Of course if it irritates one's nasal cavity or bronchi, better stick to white glue or work with an open window.  I keep a tiny cup of fast C/A glued to a piece of wood (non-spill) with a small applicator or toothpick, rolling each on a paper towel after each application. These will last for an all day session.

 

One can't have enough small clamps or alligator clips.  With a bit of masking tape over the teeth, they will hold the smallest thread.

 

Beginning with the shrouds, these were laid on following the JoTika plans and McGowan's book with McKay's drawings.  Each shroud with deadeye measured and labelled.

 

All shrouds served at mast.

 

Shrouds attached alternating starboard to port to even tension.

 

Deadeyes and lashing of shrouds

 

Graph paper on cardboard to align the futtock stave and later for rat lines.

Deadeyes at main mast

 

Pendants made with served line around a bullseye and an eye splice. Good seamanship often favored a tapered splice.

 

To simulate a tapered eye splice, sieze the bight with several turn (I prefer repeated half hitches, alternating the diredtion of the turn with each hitch). 

 

Follow by separating and cutting off one strand and sieze a few more turns.

 

Cut another strand plus a few more turns

 

Finally cutting the last strand plus siezing and one has the appearance of a tapered splice.

 

Another advantage of C/A glue.  If one is left with a protuding stump, a light clamping before the glue has cured will reshape it.

 

Making the catharpins with eye splices at each end

 

Catharpins can be seen lashed to the futtock staves

 

Futtock shrouds in place

 

Mizzen shrouds

 

Top mast shrouds

 

Lining up fore mast, main mast and mizzen while adjusting tension port and starboard.

 

Shroud cleats in place

 

Bullseye attached to base of topmast shroud deadeye, to be swung inboard to receive topgallant shroud

 

Topgallant shroud after Longridge. 

 

Topgallant shrouds

 

Topgallant shrouds pass inboard of staves in topmast shrouds

 

Terminate with lashing to bullseye attached to base of deadeye

 

Shrouds in place.  Ratlines will be shown as a separate topic.

 

I would suggest completing rat lines before tying down the topgallant shrouds, sliding backstay, breast backstay, etc. It's much easier to tie rat line without adjacent lines interfering.

 

To be continued................

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jc123]

Hi Gil,

I'd like to add my thanks for uploading the build log. It'll be a constant source of reference and awe as I strive to complete my Victory.

Best regards

Jim

[Shipyard sid]

Gil

Well this is exellent, over such a short period of time. I was only waiting for the fitting of the rudder to bring me back up to date. Thanks for giving my plans back. Regards DAVID

[dafi]

Great fun to review this!

 

Daniel

[gil middleton]

Hi Daniel,  I am remiss in not keeping up with your log and others, however, I'm still learning how to use the new site and above all to restore the build site.  It should be done in a day or so, when I can sit back and enjoy the work of our many friends on MSW.  I'll even have a few new photos to post.

David and Jim, It's nice to know someone actually reads all this stuff.  I've certainly learned my share before "the crash of 2013,"  We're all learning from each other and it will be good to get back in stride.  Cheers, Gil

[gil middleton]

On with reloading the build site.

 

RIGGING THE FORESTAYS AND PREVENTERS

 

Experimenting with a mouse and eye for the forestay.  Forming the eye with served line.

 

Forming the mouse with extra winding.

 

Mouse and eye

 

Bow sprit collar (served)

 

Attaching bow sprit collar with lashing between eyes

 

The forestay and mainstay are served at the mast to just beyond the mouse, and wormed from there on.  Serving the forestay.

 

Backwinding to begin the mouse

 

Winding to build the mouse. A little C/A helps build the trailing end and serving continues just beyond the mouse.

 

Serving ended by passing thread through the stay.  I did not glue and cut this worming line until the three worming lines were passed. It is nearly impossible to pass a needle through C/A treated line.

 

Three strands passed through the stay to begin worming.

 

Worming the forestay

 

Served on right, Wormed on left.  Mouse to be added.

 

Forestay and preventer at fore top

 

Mouse and eye (served).  Starting lacing line between stay and preventer.

 

Forestay and preventer

 

Attached at bowsprit to served collars with lashings.

 

Main stay and preventer at main top

 

Attached to collars around the bow sprit

 

Main top mast shroud and preventer

 

At fore top

 

To lashing at deck eye

 

Mizzen top mast stay

 

Mizzen stay and top mast stay

 

Mizzen stay

 

Main top mast stay and preventer

 

Main sliding backstay

 

Main breast backstay

 

Foremast sliding backstay

 

Foremast breast backstay

 

All stays and backstays were left adjustable until final tensioning and alignment

 

PHOTO  BACKDROP

 

About a year ago, Mike Graff gave our Puget Sound Ship Modellers (PSSM) group a superb well thought out presentation on improving our model photography.  The need was obvious.  Here, the Venetion blinds obscure the rigging details.

 

I tried poster board which was totally inaddaquate.

 

Finally, I obtained a "baby blue" pull down shade which should improve my posts from here on.

 

Next up, Rat lines

Edited November 30, 2013 by gil middleton

[gil middleton]

17.    RATLINES

 

My first thought on ratlines is to complete them prior to some of the standing rigging.  Here the topgallant shrouds, lashed to bullseyes just inboard of the topmast shrouds, play havoc with tying the ratlines.

 

The second thought is I rather wish I had gone with black thread.  The natural thread contrasted with the black shrouds makes the ratlines appear almost white by comparison.

 

The result is that one's attention is drawn to the ratlines rather than the more important rigging that supports them.  I tried toning down the contrast by painting the ratlines with a "black wash" (very dilute black paint) with some success.

 

Graph paper used to align the futtock stave and ratlines.

 

The color contrast appears less intrusive with less intense lighting.

 

I began with clove hitches but switched to overhand knots

 

Overhand knots resulted in only one line around the dtay rather than two with the clove hitch

 

Ratlines on main mast.

 

On futtock shrouds

 

Top mast shrouds

 

Inboard view of top mast shrouds

[capnharv2]

Wow! You wormed your stays before serving?

 

Does worming improve the lay of the serving?

 

Looking A+++ as usual. Thanks Gil!

 

Harvey

[WackoWolf]

Gil,

 

    I am thinking that second time around is better than the first time I see this part of the update. Keep the post coming.

[gil middleton]

18.     RUNNING RIGGING

 

Finally the running rigging.  This will bring the build log up to date, with a few new photos at the end.  There are still a number of small details  to add on the ship such as boomkins (deferred in order not to knock them off), lanterns, etc. and much more running rigging so I'll probably be busy for another year.  Work on our real boat begins in March to prepare it for summer cruising, so priorities will change. Grant (gdale) will pass me by and I'll get to study his rigging before making mistakes.  It's a relief to have the build log back in place and to see others taking shape. MSW is alive and well, and our sincere thanks to all the moderators who have suffered through the trials. Our inconvenience is but a fraction of their increased work load, dedication and frustration. Thanks you!!!

 

On with the rigging.  On the right, the initial square jeer block.  Center: sanded and stained with "English Oak"

 

Lower and upper jeer blocks.  Indentations for double stropping.  These massive blocks were 26" long on the real ship.

 

Experimenting with yard lift and battens (styrene) at central yerd

 

Battens and iron bands

 

Double stropped jeer blocks (served)

 

Warps of rope to support jeer blocks

 

Lower: Main yard with battens, iron bands and yard cleats.  Next up: studing sail (stuns'l)) booms. Middle: Foremast yard, tapered by sanding with power drill lathe (ends to be cut off).  Supplied stuns'l rings too large.  Replaced by cut section of styrene tubing (5.5mm diameter)

 

Rigging for yard lift, jeer blocks (double stropped), all served

 

Supplied stuns'l boom rings and replacement

 

Central yard, plus iron bands and yard cleats

 

Yard cleats.  "bolts" are .035" rivets.

 

Fittings at end of yard

 

 

Main yard

 

Stuns'l boom rings.  Stirrups for foot rope (horse) from 24g dark annealed wire with thread lashing around yard.

 

Siezing around wire to simulate eye splice supporting foot rope

 

Styrene and square brass rod for stuns'l boom support

 

Yard rigged with yard sling,jeer blocks, yard lift blocks, horse and stirrups and Flemish horses at ends.

 

Jeer blocks with lashing through eye splices from stropping

 

Stuns'l booms added

 

Brass wire to pin yard to mast (to stabilize yard for rigging)

 

At last, the build log is up to date.  The next few pictures are work done just before the crash and not yet posted.  Cheers, Gil

[gil middleton]

Thanks Joe.  I hope you're back to modeling before long.

Harvey, I'm not that clever.  I served the stay to just beyond the location of the mouse and then wormed it from there on.  Perhaps I should have done what you describe.  Gil

[popeye the sailor]

superb workmanship........as well as your picturesGil!  I am awestruck with this build....very well done!

[gil middleton]

RUNNING RIGGING  Continued.   New posts

 

Foremast yard with yard sling.  Yard pinned to mast for stability with brass wire drilled into mast and yard, + C/A glue

 

Yard sling plus jeer blocks.  Timber hitch on yard leads to upper jeer block, and from blocks leads down to deck. Yard jeer blocks lashed to yard through eyes in tail of double strops.

 

Truss pendants. Each passes around back of mast, through bullseye lashed to yard on the opposite side and down to deck.

 

Rigging truss pendants to block and tackle

 

Main mast truss pendants terminate at block and tackle to deck eyebolt and finish at cleat at base of mast.  Jeer blocks line terminates through sheeve in the main top bowline bitts just aft of the main mast.  Yard topping lift terminate through sheeves in the kevel at bulworks (below forward shroud).

 

Topping lift.

 

Foremast yard topping lift

 

Foremast yard

 

Jeer blocks line terminates at fore top bowline bitts (aft of fore mast), truss pendants to tackle forward of mast and tooping lift to kevels at bulworks

[Steven Zhang]

So happy you come back again Gil! Without you I can't keep going!

Edited February 27, 2013 by Steven Zhang

[zeptraderUK]

stunning work, I aspire to your craftsmanship Gil, thanks for re-posting this.

[gjdale]

Superb craftsmanship as always Gil. Your posts on the early stages of the Running Rigging will be a great help to me - very soon! I was interested in your reflections on your ratlines. Indeed it was your comment that helped me to decide on going with black ratlines and I'm very pleased I did. I have however, stuck with clove hitches for all the ratlines. To be honest, I'm not sure that most observers would be able to tell the difference anyway.

I'm not sure I'll overtake you - somehow work and life seem to conspire to severely limit my shipyard time!

 

Cheers,

[Jerry]

Hi Gil,

I'm Jerry and I just started bilding HMS Victory like yours.  I have a question that I hope you will answer for me.  Did your bulkheads fit the slots of the keel immediately or did you have to trim (sand) the slots to make the pieces fit?  Thanks for your answer or anyone elses answer who may read this.

 

Jerry

[Kevin]

Jerry, mine fitted without any problems