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San Francisco 2 by Shaz - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Wood


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Hi Robbyn,

 

Catdavits = catheads.  BTW, the beak and head timbers are always one of the tougher bits to get right.  Sleeping on it is a good idea. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Nice job Robbyn, it's a beautiful ship.

Hours dreaming about the gratings you can add to the total construction time ;).

Cheers,
Wim

Current build:
Creole Queen scratchbuild and Korean Turtle War Ship

Finished: King of the Mississippi, Bon Retour, Chinese Pirate Junk, Nave Egizia
Next builds:  Gundeck Vasa; Bounty (bashed)

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Catfalls is another term.

If you think of them as cats paws and the lines dropping from them as the cats claws you will see where the name comes from.

 

Now, stop dreaming and get back to work !

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Robbyn,

 

Ive noticed that you have stained your limber boards ebony, I think the applewood is only good for making it look like a different type of wood.  It is downright ugly.  I also noticed that the limber boards do not flow evenly from each level.  I am thinking about using some of my leftover cherry for the limber boards, the instructions have them as 2X5X500 mm.  I don't have anything that small, all I have is 3X5 mm, I dont think the thickness will matter much? Any thoughts?  I am going to try to avoid the applewood as much as possible and when I have to use it I will stain it ebony like you did :)

 

-Aaron

“The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.” - Augustine

 

Current Build:

 

Artesania Latina San Francisco II 1:90 Scale

 

On the Shelf:

 

Model Shipways Armed Virginia Sloop 1:48 Scale

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Aaron, as far as the thickness, it won.t matter a bit for the limber boards. you are right, the applewood is rather ugly!!

 

Bedford, I'm working, I'm working lol.

Got up this morning, and have been installing the rest of my doors in the bulkheads above deck. Making my ladders, finishing up the gratings, and yes, I did figure out how to do my frames for the grating between the bow and the beak while I was sleeping, so soaking and bending wood for that now!!!

 

Thank you everyone for the explanation of the catdavits...really did find that an amusing name, but it makes sense now.

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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So, I have managed to get one classes' papers graded while working a bit on the ship.

 

Got the first pintle finished, Does this look too tall? It is the proper height according to the instructions, but again, since I don't know what a pintle's purpose is, I think it looks oversized sitting there on the deck.

 

post-127-0-54888000-1365962392_thumb.jpg

post-127-0-07800800-1365962407_thumb.jpg

 

Completed bending, measuring and fitting the bow-beak frames. Waiting for glue to dry so I can sand smooth and make the joints look better. Then I can install the gratings.

post-127-0-45280600-1365962415_thumb.jpg

 

Cut my other pintles..actually pretty happy with my rough carving skills of such a tiny piece using only a #11 blade. these haven't yet been sanded smooth, but I was very pleased with the overall shape of them

post-127-0-12797300-1365962422_thumb.jpg

 

Now, back to work!!!

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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   Hi Robbyn,

 

So that's what they called pintles…..

Mine are the same, I mean they are also large but that's what the drawing are saying.

So when we do it wrong, blame the kit and not us  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D

Thanks for the pictures, you are spoiling me  ;)

You go to work and I go to bed…….

Early start tomorrow.

Shift begins at 6.00 am Grrrrrrr

 

animaatjes-sjors-94584.gif[/url]

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Gratings completed.

post-127-0-23970700-1365979314_thumb.jpg

 

Installed

post-127-0-45727200-1365979334_thumb.jpg

 

As she sits now with a bunch of little bits completed

 

post-127-0-38611400-1365979325_thumb.jpg

post-127-0-56873700-1365979347_thumb.jpg

post-127-0-88386300-1365979356_thumb.jpg

 

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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Robbyn:

Nice work. The hull and decks look really good. Nice treenailing detail on the deck.

 

Russ

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Robbyn,

 

The grating on your bow is two pieces, did you deviate from the kit?  I can't remember if the kit shows one or two pieces?

 

-Aaron

“The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.” - Augustine

 

Current Build:

 

Artesania Latina San Francisco II 1:90 Scale

 

On the Shelf:

 

Model Shipways Armed Virginia Sloop 1:48 Scale

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Love the grating, well done and I love the third pic above, the whole weather deck from the bow. Looks great!

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Thanks everyone for the kind words and the encouragement! :D

 

I actually feel like I am getting somewhere at last. It is strange how just putting a few odds and ends on the deck start to bring the whole thing together and make it look like a ship.

 

@Aaron, it is in two pieces..that is how I interpreted the pictures in the instructions. Word of warning...the kit did not supply with enough of those little grating strips, luckily when I made that visit to the hobby store I had bought a package just in case.

 

The little bits and pieces seem to go quicker now. Either my skill in making them is improving, or my patience has gone beyond the perfectionist stage and just wants to get it done.

 

I do see  a light at the end of the tunnel though. according to the instructions I only have 10 more steps to go, a couple more little bits (8 to be exact) then I can start wiring some deadeyes for the hull, next is the cannon and carriage construction, the life boat, and then yipee the masts go in.  I think I am actually excited to get to the rigging stage...one, I want to see just what everyone complains about, and two, I told myself when I get there I will also start building my longboat kit :P

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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Great gratings Robbyn,

 

You and Sherry can learn me something…...

I think I go back to the paper ships  :(

I just feel myself like a novice what you both are showing!

I don't want to say it but I will do it….let those pics coming!!!!!

 

animaatjes-sjors-94584.gif

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Robbyn Said " Either my skill in making them is improving, or my patience has gone beyond the perfectionist stage and just wants to get it done."

 

I'd tend to agree with this as a new builder. Yes as you do more your skills improve as well as your patience, On the perfectionist stage I have found that its beneficial not to be a perfectionist at certain stages as it can be fixed later with sanding and dressing up. This I feel helps speed things up greatly, not obsessing over every step along the way but just in the parts where they count. Experience teaches which parts to throw together quickly then become the perfectionist on finishing.

My biggets hurdle is my own questioning of "is this right" which seems to slow me down. Sometimes just doing something is better then overthinking it, but that is hard not to do sometimes.

 

The true test is at the end, do you feel satisfaction and ultimately Do YOU Like It. The only contest is with yourself, and from the pictures it appears your slicing past yourself in this race  :D (sorry bad pun).

All the problem aside though, you must feel a Great amount of Accomplishment. If you weren't, you'd have given up by now. So few have had such Drama as your build, your stick-to-it-ness is the most Amazing part of this build. Blood Sweat and Tears should be her name as I'm sure you shed all three and she is a War ship after all so you've made it real in more ways then one.

 

Suceess is ALWAYS sweeter when struggles occur. If your not struggling your not learning.

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Being as good as someone else was put into a very good prespective by a musician friend of mine. I was planning to take guitar lessons and I asked Craig "so how long for me to get as good as you" he quickly replied lets see Ive been playing 25 years so I'd say... oh about 25 years....

 

By the time we catch them, they will be 25 years better then they are now. Although having the Masters of MSW on hand sure make the bumps much less bumpy. So many Mentors, I LOVE THIS PLACE!

 

Here's to the veteran builders that freely assist us new builders, cheers :cheers:

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As for the perfectionist part....I have always been one of those types of people, never much subscribed to the "it's good enough for gov't work" line of thinking, but more along the lines of "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing well".

 

Early on, I did go with the "it's okay for now, because I can sand it to perfection" but now on these little bits, I am finding I have to be content with the mediocrity that my available tool set offers me.

 

Like those pintles...are they perfectly carved with all straight lines and bevels, and perfectly aligned drill holes? Hell no, but you know what....I don't own any micro tools that will allow me perfect miters, and perfect depths and alignments. All I have is my #11 exacto, a pin vise, ruler, and my eyes. So for my purposes I was pretty darned happy with how they came out. I was especially amazed that I could do that on such a small piece. So I am happy with the result and in the end, I am really the only one I have to please.

 

I am thinking though that the overall result of the ship itself is shaping up to be fairly decent for a first attempt, amazing how much we learn along the way that will help with the next build, but I think I can safely say she will be 2 footer...you  know, looks awesome from about 2 feet away. And I can live with that, as I have seen some 6 footers on here lol.

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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Robbyn, Robbyn, Robbyn.......................

I am sure I have said this before but it has to look right to you.

If someone else looks at it they will be overwhelmed with all the detail there is to see and all the fine detail work you do will not really be noticed anyway. You do it for YOU.

 

when it comes to doing the chain plates keep in mind they need to continue in the line of the shroud through the shroud table and onto the hull, don't mount them vertically. To this end I don't attach the chain plates until I have the masts stepped and standing.Then run a shroud line from its point of attachment on the mast, down past its deadeye location on the shroud table and to the side of the hull. This will give you the correct point of attachment to the hull to get your angles right, every one will be different. I am sure there are other ways to get it right but this is how I started doing it long before the interweb thingy and it works so well and is so simple,

 

Now, tools......

You NEED to get yourself a razor plane or mini plane whose blade is an old fashioned razor blade. It has myriad uses and you will find it invaluable if you know how to use a plane, ie with the grain instead of against.

 

You will find it a great tool for tapering the masts and yards, start by planing the last 20% and turn the dowell as you go, go around two times making sure the second time takes off the edges left by the previous cut. Then start again planing the last 40% making sure you get good shavings all the way, then do 60% and so on, you will end up with a nice taper which can easily be sanded to a good smooth taper..

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Are you telling me NOT to put in the deadeyes with the chainplates now, like the instructions say?

 

Do I go ahead and attach the racks for those to the hull now?

Edited by Shaz

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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I think what he is suggesting, is you can go ahead and put the channels on (the flat pieces of wood that hold the deadeyes out from the hull) but hold off actually installing the deadeyes.

 

As he said, the line of the chain plates has to follow the lines of the shrouds. You don't necessarily have to have your masts fully installed. You can do what I did. I simply cut the mast dowel to the correct length and using the plans, mark a line around the mast at about the level where the shrouds originate. You can then simply tie a long thread at that point and keeping the end free you can use that as a guide to make sure your chain plates will line up the way they are supposed to. Of course, you can attach all your deadeyes and chainplates as you go with this system.

 

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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Dont ask me on the channels and shrouds, thats why I picked the Swift as my first, it has very simple rigging. Although the heighten transom is going to force me to re-fit the aft boom higher now.

On Bedfords comment on the plane, (just FYI for you or others following along) I haven't used the razor blade version but harbour freight has a small wood and brass 3 plane set for $9.99. I've used the heck out of the block plane. The bullnose and the scraper planes I haven't used yet though. I prefer a hand scraper. Of course the blade needs a good sharpening but I used my little HF block plane for tapering and beveling planking. even used the curls to weave the basket for the canoe.

 

Congrats on your next build decision! :D She's a great kit.

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Robbyn,

 

Did you notice in the instructions that it looks like the cahins that hold the deadeyes to the hull seem to be in conflict with some of the middle false gun ports?  Maybe I am looking at this wrong, I will see if I can post a picture for you.

 

-Aaron

“The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.” - Augustine

 

Current Build:

 

Artesania Latina San Francisco II 1:90 Scale

 

On the Shelf:

 

Model Shipways Armed Virginia Sloop 1:48 Scale

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Robbyn,

Here is what I am referring to.  I took this from Eric's thread.  Its not a huge problem and you can always do what he did.

-Aaron

post-245-0-94593400-1366129974_thumb.jpg

“The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.” - Augustine

 

Current Build:

 

Artesania Latina San Francisco II 1:90 Scale

 

On the Shelf:

 

Model Shipways Armed Virginia Sloop 1:48 Scale

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I seen that on builds/kits myself Aaron, chains in the way of gun ports and have ofter wondered about the conflict of engineering. Its hard to see in the pic what Eric did. Did he shorten the chains over the ports, I typically see them angled away, which sometimes would cross the path of opening the port doors.

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Hey Robbin I was peaking in on your build and noticed the discussion about the chain plates. I shortened mine but I didn't know the should be at the same angle as the lines. I obviously have a problem with my deadeyes now as the chain plates are straight up and down. Hope this helps a little

Eric

 

Current build(s) ;

AL San Francisco II

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/862-san-francisco-2-by-eric-al-190-sport29652/

 

MS Rattlesnake

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/868-rattlesnake-by-eric-model-shipways-164-sport29652/page-2

 

Sitting on the shelf : MS Constitution, MS Sultana,

 

Wish List : MS Essex, Confederacy, and Syren, and a Victory kit by someone ?

 

"80% of the time it works every time."

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