SS Michelangelo 1962 by shipmodel - 1/350 scale

41 posts in this topic
36 minutes ago, shipmodel said:

Bob - 


That looks well nigh perfect.  The only thing that would have to change is that the staves meet dead center at the lower forward edge, not on either side.  Is that a big deal?





Thanks.  This is just a test run, to see if the method I had in mind for constructing it worked, so it is all changeable.  In looking at the photos, the intermediate ring should also be higher up, as well as straightening out some of the struts.  I'd also like to get a more accurate cross-section for the strut members.  With a higher- resolution elevation drawing and a bit more time studying the drawings, I think it should be fairly straight-forward to tweak it in the right direction.


Omega1234, dvm27, Canute and 6 others like this

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Following along on this very interesting build.  It is also great to see the various types of new/newer technologies being considered for this build.





mtaylor, druxey, Canute and 4 others like this

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I have always said that I am a medium-tech sort of guy.  I tend to cobble something together that does the job, like my ropemaker.  But I am fascinated by all the things that the new technologies promise.  I have seen some really excellent examples of 3-D printing at various meetings and conferences, and the products are getting better all the time.


That said, I have yet to see the actual production process master a smooth curved surface without a lot of effort = time = money.  But I am prepared to be convinced that it can handle these cages with their diagonal edges.   I can always fall back on the lo-tech methods if needs be.


Bob - would be very grateful for your help in working up the learning curve.  I have all the plans at high resolution, and several other close-up photos to answer questions of detail.  Let's talk.


Druxey - am I really that old?  When did photoetching become "lo-tech" ! !




hexnut, mtaylor, Jack12477 and 3 others like this

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Build Log 3 – Shaping the hull


Hi all –


Thanks for the likes and comments, devilishly clever as some of them are. . .


And thanks to Druxey, Michael, and especially Bob for helping me with the funnel cages.  It looks like I will be working with Bob to have them printed in 3-D.  I’ll report back on the progress and results. 


Leaving aside the issues with the funnel cages, the next step was to shape the hull.   The first problem was that the plans did not have the specifics of the lower deck spaces, just a drawing labeled “steva” or bilge.  It covered much more than the lowest two lifts, so the outline of the hull shape for these lifts was impossible to determine.  I had to go back to my high school class in engineering drawing to plot them.  I took the station lines plan and drew the horizontal lines for the locations of the tops of the first two lifts.58cea2ca04e6f_1-plottinglowerlifts.thumb.jpg.4ab2551895f2ad28d6e4872800b4e4b5.jpg


Plotting the distances from the centerline for each station gave me the offsets, which were laid out on the bilge plan and joined by smooth curves.  Here they are shown in red for the lower two lifts.58cea2cb0bcc5_1a-plansofbottom2lifts.thumb.jpg.11cb70650bf7e9aeff62fc1c27e84e54.jpg


The paper lifts were cut out and laid down on basswood planks along a drawn centerline.  They were affixed with spray adhesive for photo mounts, which can be repositioned as needed and then removes easily.  The lifts were cut along the plotted lines with the band saw.  In the lifts plans you can see two black dots along the waterline.  These located holes for the captured “T”-nuts which will be used for the future mounting hardware.  The nut goes into the hole in the lower lift and its flange is then trapped by the upper lift.  The hole in the upper lift allows free movement of the mounting bolt to any depth.


At the bow some extra material was left on these lifts to build up the bulb that increases efficiency at high speeds.  Here are the first 4 lifts laid up but before shaping.



Above the second lift I made the hollows in the hull.  This was first of all to lighten it a bit, but primarily to give any stresses from wood movement somewhere to go rather than deforming the exterior of the hull.  Here are several lifts in the process.  I first select basswood planks that are half the width of the overall model.  Two of them are clamped side by side and the paper plan glued to them along that line.  A sharp knife is run along the seam and the port and starboard sides are separated.  The lift is sawn along the exterior line, and two large spaces are cut from the middle.  A bar of wood is left amidships for strength.


Sharp eyes will notice that these are not the lifts for the Michelangelo, but reprised from the Doria.  I did not think that I was going to post this portion of the build, since the techniques are the same as on the Doria.  But I decided that to tell a complete story I had to show how the hull was built up.  Unfortunately, I had missed the chance to document the process, so I am using the old illustrations.  


As with the Doria, I used black glue to join the lifts.  This is nothing more than a few drops of black acrylic paint mixed into the glue.  It starts out messy, but gives an indelible line between the lifts and, because of the split lifts, along the centerline at the bow and stern.  Here are the first 4 lifts of the Michelangelo glued up.  You can must make out the location of the mounting hole in the aft hollow chamber.


Later in the process the hull block is almost complete.  The next lift to be added is cut short at the stern to make the space for the open working deck and fantail deck.  It is also solid, to make a continuous surface that can be sanded to the curve of the sheer.



Once the block was fully laid up the shaping process started.  Using powered sanders and grinders the hull was brought to approximate shape.  58cea2d196e88_2b-sandingmidshipssetup.thumb.jpg.1fe6431261f0e51a7a949141cb67c1b2.jpg


Where there were concave areas, such as under the stern fairing into the rudder post, or under the flare of the bow, various hand held curved rasps and sanders were used.   Here you can see the benefit of the split lift and black glue.  No matter how much material I removed, the lines always remained.58cea2d2aed99_2c-roughbow.thumb.jpg.d01e92ce71326349b41f22ef7a378919.jpg


Next time I will cover the final shaping of the hull block and the beginning of planning for the upper decks.


As always, be well





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