Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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I am curious as to why they didn't have lids on the gunports in the waist. I understand that area is open to the weather, but it still provides some protection against the seas slopping in.- 2,191 replies
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Lumber Yard has swivels, 6lb, 9lb, 12lb and 18lb in 1/4 scale (1:48) 6lb in 3/16 scale MAY be close to the right size. Oh, wait, they do have 4# in that scale.
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J11, Take a look at the Lumber Yard. They have a larger variety of guns than Chuck (Syren). The downside is that Dave (co-owner) is out of circulation for awhile and getting the guns quickly may be an issue if they are not already made. I need to check my plans to refresh what scale and which size guns. As I recall, there was a mishmash.
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Red Paint or Red Ochre
Chuck Seiler replied to davyboy's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
How come when you add white to blue it becomes light blue, but if you add white to red it becomes pink. Doesn't seem fair. -
Leave them off. But if you must (I must, I must), I would go with boxwood.
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Red Paint or Red Ochre
Chuck Seiler replied to davyboy's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hipexec, Do you want to paint your wales red or your bulkheads? -
At any rate, your interpretation of the wind is as good as any. Most people who look will not even notice. They will be impressed with the overall diorama itself.
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John, I have a copy of the thesis "The Continental Gondola Philadelphia-A Dissertation by John Raymond Bratton" from Texas A+M University. It can be downloaded from the following site: http://nautarch.tamu.edu/Theses/abstracts/bratten.html It goes into detail about the recovery, but I'm not sure it gives heading. He does indicate both anchors were found in the mud directly under their respective catheads, indicating they were onboard when it sunk, eventually dropping off when the cables rotted.
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Ebony is nice, but it is such a pain to bend...particularly at the bow. The coachman method is, basically, a lot of coats (8, 10 or so) of very thin paint, buffed out between coats. It is a lot more work, but it is really nice.
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John, I got the impression that they secured the anchor cable to bits in the stern so that 'downwind' had them facing the enemy. I'm not sure where I got that from, but I know in my days with the navy were moored to a pier like that once or twice. Since the cable was coiled up on deck, it would not have been hard to re-run it. There are 2 bits aft, one either side just aft of the rear cockpit. You are correct, however, since both anchors were with the wreck it is probable that it was not anchored when it sunk.
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Joel, Wouldn't their heading be ship dependent? The galleys would have been as you said so as to present a broadside to the enemy, but since the gunboats mounted their heavy gun in the bow I would think they would have been facing the enemy...south-eastish.
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Superb work!!! When I looked at photo 4 and 5 of post 12 I thought the rescue scene was taking place next to the beach. I now see that what I am looking at is not the beach from the diorama but the actual ground.
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You also asked about sizes... Given that you have a table saw, I would go with sheets. I like to go with 3 inches wide where I can. Eeking out that last plank on the sheet is a pain and you have to do it less often with 3 inches rather than 2. Thickness? I recall a discussion somewhere that talked about 1/16" vs 3/64" thickness for planking at the scale you are working. I have found 1/16" to be good.
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Eddie, I think a scroll saw is essential for this project in order to cut the frames/futtocks. I have a crappy-assed Dremel scroll saw that I used to cut the frames for the WASHINGTON (before I shelved it). It was okay,but not great. I have the MS RATTLESNAKE kit and plan to replace the basswood with hardwood...so I have given the question of 'which woods' some thought. I am a big fan of boxwood. I was going to use boxwood above the wales, with a natural finish on the 'yellow/buff' area and paint the black area black. In the pasted I have either used or experimented with ebony, ebony stain, black wood dye and black paint. I was not a fan of black paint until I started using the 'coachman method' Chuck P. talks about in either his CONFEDERACY or WINCHELSEA build log. When done right, it is exquisite. I love boxwood,however, based on some recent discussions,I might try Alaskan Cedar from Wood Projects Resources. For decks I usually use holly, but that is getting harder to come by. My next project may involve maple. You won't be planking much below the wale, but where you do, I would use holly or maple.
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Eddie, What is your experience level and what tools do you have? Both sources mentioned by Ken are great. They offer both sheets or strips. If you have a miniature table saw, sheets may be the way to go. That's what I do.
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There goes one now!!!! Model Expo/Model Shipways regularly has sales. Get on their mailing list and they will let you know when they are. Figure out what you want to do for your next project (or maybe the one after that). When it comes up on sale, go for it.
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Wait for the sale.
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Patrick, I recommend you replace your "Fear of Failure" with "Quest for Achievement". I guarantee you will screw things up, learn from them and move on. You can do like I do, screw things up and pull everything apart...they do it better the next time. I don't think I have built a model yet where I did not have the 'opportunity to improve my skills thru dynamic restructuring'. I have started the SULTANA myself, many years ago, and really like it. It is sitting in my garage getting ready for masting and rigging...one of these days. Go forth and achieve!
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To answer your first question...I dunno, I think wooden ship modeling (or ship modeling in general) is in the blood. Once you get bit, you can never really let it go. There always seems to be the lore to get back in and build another one better, or bigger, or more complex. It's in the blood and the only cure is scotch.
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What is the most EPIC kit available???
Chuck Seiler replied to Rossi46's topic in Wood ship model kits
Rossi, Where do you live? It sounds like you are looking to venture into the dark side; heavy kit bashing at (dare I say) scratch building. If there is a model club near you, I would recommending getting with them as well as interacting here. Sometimes face-to-face discussions and demos can be invaluable. -
What is the most EPIC kit available???
Chuck Seiler replied to Rossi46's topic in Wood ship model kits
I have a mental breakdown just LOOKING at them. -
Keep in mind that the wale(s) were structural members, not decoration or "fenders". In part, they acted like barrel hoops, tying the frames together and also as a strong point for deck clamps, knees, etc. In the 1600s, and prior (not sure of the dates) each frame futtock was secured to a wale rather than it's neighboring futtock. That is why the earlier vessels have so many wales.
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I own 3 or 4 dremels and I use the snot out of my cordless (with spare battery). Lie any other tool, it has its place. I agree with others that there are times when you DON'T want to use it because it can take too much wood off or offer too little control in making a hole, but I have also found I can now do much more detailed work with it than I could before. It was the ONLY power tool I had for years...until I got a Byrnes saw. I recommend getting the dremel 3 jaw chuck.
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