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_SalD_

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Everything posted by _SalD_

  1. _SalD_
    This is one of the parts of ship building I like the best, running all the rigging. As a structural engineer it never ceases to amaze me how they ran the rigging in order to transfer the load from the sails, to the masts, to the shrouds and stays and then into the ship. After every line I put on I push or pull or twist the mast to see how it interconnects with all the other rigging, just amazing. Sorry…I'm just easily amused. I finished up the lower fore mast shrouds and stays which were done pretty much like the main mast. Next the sheer poles and futtock staves were tied in place. I put the futtock stave on the outboard side of the shrouds but after reading up on them (after the fact) I think they should have been placed on the inboard side. The futtock shrouds were installed next. A 3mm hook from the Syren Model Co. was seized to one end to attach to the eye below the top. The other end was wrapped around the futtock stave and seized to the lower shrouds. I used 8/0 fly tying thread for the seizing to keep the seizing small. The catharpins were done next as described in the instructions. Sorry for the blurry pictures One thing I realize now but not at the time I was doing it is that I could have rigged the entire lower masts without installing the top masts. It would have been so much easier to install the shrouds on around the mastheads and not have to worry about breaking the top masts off. Would have been easier just stepping the lower masts too. Next time.
  2. _SalD_
    Wow!! wonderful craftsmanship Tom, beautiful work, very impressive workshop too.
  3. _SalD_
    now that's funny...
  4. _SalD_
    Thanks Thomas, they are very hard to hold onto, very small. I also painted them black just in case the thread didn't cover it all.
  5. _SalD_
    Thanks Elijah wish my lanyards turned out as nice. Thanks for looking gerty And thank you all for the likes
  6. _SalD_
    Welcome to the club James, best of luck with the Syren. I noticed you have quite the collection of paints.
  7. _SalD_
    Elijah, good luck with the decking, the boat should look real nice with it. Sounds like you've joined a great club.
  8. _SalD_
    As I had mentioned earlier in one of my posts I had won a small serving machine at the Northeast Ship Model Conference last April so I thought I would use it for some of the standing rigging. The lower pendants were done first by serving two separate pieces of rigging, forming the eye at one end of each piece and then seizing the two pieces together around the mast head. Next I did the lower main shrouds. Only the foremost shroud on either side of the main mast was served in its entirety, all the others were served only where they wrapped around the mast head. I’m glad I did this because, imo, it does look impressive. The only problem I have with it is the black thread on the black mast, it’s very hard to see. I think the next time I’ll paint the mast head white. For tying the shrouds around the deadeyes I used a technique for holding them in position that I read about in Brian’s (GuntherMT) AVS build. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8085-armed-virginia-sloop-by-gunthermt-model-shipways-scale-148-complete/?p=340205 I did make one change however, instead of just drawing a line to mark the location of the deadeyes I made a copy of the plans showing them and pasted it to the piece of wood. The deadeyes were then pinned in place in their correct orientation. The below picture is the fore mast but I did the same for the main mast but didn't take a picture. After the shrouds the main stay and preventer stay were done. The portion of the stays that wrap around the mast head were served including the mouse. To make the mouse I use a 5/64” diameter dowel, first I drilled a hole in it, then used a pencil sharpener to get its basis shape and then used a file to round off the back after cutting it of the dowel.
  9. _SalD_
    I've never used one but I think the ponce wheel would be a good alternative. And I think we've all had those moments, I know I have, where after you post something you slam the heel of your hand into your forehead and say 'what an idiot'.
  10. _SalD_
    Robbyn, I had to slowly giggle my stamp back & forth and side to side as I pressed down to get a good impression on the tape. I didn't hit the stamp with a hammer either like in the instructions but just pressed it down with my fingers. I'm not sure I fully understand your last question but you do need to cut the tape into individual plates after you stamp them, they're about 3/4" long. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8410-us-brig-syren-by-sald-–-model-shipways/?p=300394
  11. _SalD_
    Good luck with your new build Tom I will be pulling up a chain and following along. Tell me has Toby recovered too and is he still allowed in the work shop?
  12. _SalD_
    Head rails came out great Richard, nice work.
  13. _SalD_
    Dirk, Elijah & Nigel thanks for the kind words and thanks to all who hit the likes button
  14. _SalD_
    looking good Nigel
  15. _SalD_
    Started the chain plates and made them pretty much as described in the instructions. The only difference was I added two additional pins to the jig for the deadeye strops. The two extra pins as seen in the photo below helped me keep the bent wire together and made it easier to bend back the loose ends. Chain plates assembled. Deadeyes in position with edge strip added to the channels Chain plates fastened to hull. I decided to use the photo etched preventer links because they looked a lot nicer than what I made. The only problem I found with these links was that the brass nails provided with the kit to fasten these links to the hull did not fit though the holes in them. So instead of the brass nails I used some sewing pins I had that fit nicely and actually had a smaller head than the nails. Prior to starting the rigging I decided to mount the ship on its display board and pedestals. The board is ½” oak from Home Depot stained with the same 40-60 mixture of golden oak and natural stain as used on the model and the pedestals are from Model Expo.
  16. _SalD_
    Nice job Jesse, that had to be one of the most challenging parts to make on this build.
  17. _SalD_
    Hey Duff, Jimmy, thanks for looking in and the nice words, see you Saturday. and thanks for all the likes
  18. _SalD_
    Thanks Richard and I'm glad I can be of some help.
  19. _SalD_
    Thanks for the comments Gary, Elijah, George & Lawrence. Elijah like George mentioned Amazon is probably a good place to buy a drafting triangle or if you have a Hobby Lobby nearby they should have them or any art supply store will have them. It's been a long time, a real long time, since I've purchase one myself.
  20. _SalD_
    Thanks Jack and thanks for all the likes.
  21. _SalD_
    Stepped the masts!! To help align the masts I find that a 45 degree drafting triangle comes in handy. I use the triangle to help me center the mast side to side. First I scribe a line in the plastic triangle bisecting the 90 degree angle and perpendicular to the hypotenuse, pay attention Elijah there’s going to be a quiz on this. Then I measure the overall distance outboard to outboard of the cap rail where the triangle will be placed. Dividing that distance in half I mark that distance on either side of the scribed line along the hypotenuse of the triangle. Then standing the triangle up against the mast and with the two marks at either edge of the cap rail the apex of the bisected 90 degree angle will be centered on the ship and 90 degrees to the deck. For the fore and aft position I used a gin pole arrangement braced back against the cannons. Both fore and main masts were done the same way. Fortunately I was able the use the opening between the hammock netting at the boarding panels to place the triangle for the main mast. The advantage I find with this method is that the ship doesn’t need to be leveled. As long as the ship is built with a reasonable amount of symmetry and the triangle is properly placed across the rails then the apex of the triangle will always be at the center of the ship and 90 degrees to the cap rails (deck). Final step was to push the mast coats down into position. Please excuse the mess
  22. _SalD_
    Thanks Elijah and Thomas and I appreciate the likes
  23. _SalD_
    Thanks Dirk and Craig. Makes a big difference with the bowsprit and masts in place. Dirk, you look a lot warmer now.
  24. _SalD_
    Trestle and cross trees construction. To ensure these pieces were assembled properly I put a piece of two-sided tape down over the drawing and used it for a template to alien the parts. I took Chuck’s advice and predrilled the holes in the cross trees before I removed them from the laser cut sheet. Be very careful while drilling these holes the parts are very fragile. I ended up splitting two of the ends that I had to glue back together. Let the drill do the work and resist the urge to push the bit into the wood like someone I know did. I shaped the top and topgallant masts using the same procedure I used for the lower masts. The only deviation I made from the instructions was to the very top of the topgallant mast. What I did and it wasn’t from lack of trying but after I broke the mast two times while trying to make this little pole at the top I decided that I would just make it a separate piece. I made the topgallant to just above the upper most sheave then drilled a hole in the top so I could insert the pole which was made from a toothpick sanded down to the right diameter. The mast parts were all assembled and painted. I believe (and hope) I installed all the blocks that were shown on the plans. I can see where this would be a pain to do after the masts are in place, if you see something I missed please let me know. Masts temporarily installed The final pieces I made up were the mast coats which I covered in cloth from a handkerchief to make them look like they were covered in canvas.
  25. _SalD_
    Nice work Jack, I like your mast holding contraption too, very clever.

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