BobG

I've never done a solid hull model. Is there a lot of material to remove to get the hull profile correct?

What a great job you've done on this colorful, little boat, Turk Sailor! I'm glad to see a build log for this model. It's a perfect entry level model and you were wise to start off with a model you could be successful with. Too many first time ship modelers get in way over their heads with an advanced model and then get discouraged and never complete it. I started off with a little dory boat by Artesania Latina and found out that I really wanted to learn more and improve. So congratulations from a fellow Californian. San Francisco is one of my favorite cities. My son works in the city too. Have you decided what your next build will be?

It would be great if you would make a build log of the Billing Boats African Queen, Rick. Will you be weathering it too?

I don't have a table saw so Ryland's advice might be best for you. I used my Dremel tool to roughly take off some material at first. Then I finished up the scarf joints using a sharp #11 Exacto blade, small files, a micro chisel and sanding sticks. I kept placing the pieces together to see how the fit was coming along and then would file a little bit more until I got a nice, tight fit. Full disclosure: I blew might first keel with a boneheaded mistake. I completed the scarf joint and had a beautiful fit. Then I marked the holes and drilled them and then glued the larger filament into the holes, sanded the keel lightly and applied a coat of Satin WOP. It looked great! However, I was admiring my work the next day and embarrassingly realized that I had put the holes on the port side of the keel in the wrong place. My wife said, "Nobody will notice that but you," but it bugged the heck out of me so I ordered another keel from Chuck and made a new one. It was one of those mental errors where I scratch my head and say, "How the hell did I do that?" The tool I have that is 1000% better than one of those flimsy Helping Hands is called a Quad Hands. I used it a lot when I was stropping blocks and for holding lines when I was securing them to the mast etc. It's heavy so it very stable and the magnets on the arms are powerful so they stay put where you want them. I recommend it highly. I got mine on Amazon. Here is the one that I got with a link below the photo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZG2D99/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is turning into a beautiful model!

Thanks for reminding how important that step is and that I really do need to do it, Chuck. Fantastic photos as well!

Hello vaddoc, I downloaded the Gaff Rig Handbook by John Leather and it's excellent. I think I'll be able to make sense of the gaff rig on the Pen Duick now. I also found a used copy of his book, A Panorama of Gaff Rig, and it should arrive next week. I'm very visual so a picture is worth a thousand words when I trying to understand something. Thanks for suggesting these books to me.

Thanks very much, Gary. As I noted in my previous post, the third time sanding and painting the hull was the charm. I'm still a rather aspiring novice but I'm finding this hobby rather addicting. Your current New England Stonington Dragger build is a work of art. Thanks for taking a look at my build.

Thanks so much, Tom. Getting the hull painted to my satisfaction was a bit of a journey for me. I used an airbrush for the first time and there was a learning curve for me. I've learned that I need to redo mistakes and things I'm not happy with or it bugs me every time I look at it even if nobody else would notice. So I ended up sanding and painting the hull 3 times before I was happy with it. Thanks for stopping by and good luck on your most interesting build.

Wonderful fishing boat! The photos of the real boat shows that we don't need to have a "perfect" planking job to have a nice model of a working vessel either.

This is a fantastic model and I learned a ton building. Good luck. She's a joy to build.

Wow, simply a magnificent work of art!

I learn something new on this site everyday!

You've done a nice job of correcting these deck problems. Unfortunately, errors in the kit supplied materials are all too common especially with the kits from some of the long established model ship companies. Errors instructions and plans are also commonplace. It's too bad that these companies do not correct or upgrade their kits after these errors have become widely known for a very long time. It's great to see, however, that some of the newer model kit companies like Syren and Vanguard are setting new standards for excellence in kits currently.

I'm looking forward to seeing you build this beautiful model, closehaul.

I'd love to see photos of your build of this beautiful boat.

Beautiful looking rope.

Let me know if you get more than you can handle!! 😄

I've looked online a little bit and have only seen the Project X available. Do you have any recommendations of where to look?

I look forward to following this unusual and interesting build, Tom. I have an out-of-production Amati Gondola kit that still on the shelf. I keep thinking it might be a nice, short build but it seems like all these wooden boats take longer than expected.

This is going to be a very cool boat, Harry, and you are moving right along.

That a beautiful finish you got on the wood, ir3, and those fittings look like they are very high quality.

Great planking, Gerry!

I use Titebond Thick & Quick a lot and prefer it to regular Titebond since it isn't as runny and, generally, I can just use finger pressure for a few seconds to allow it to grab securely enough to move on.

Beautiful boat, David! I may have to put this model on my tick list. She has such beautiful lines. My wife and I went on an afternoon sail on the Bluenose II in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, last fall on a blustery day and enjoyed it very much. I'm really looking forward to your build of the Ontario. She's a magnificent looking ship!