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BobG

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Everything posted by BobG

  1. I like them both but I preferred the sleek lines of the Zulu more and bought it for that reason. I was happy to hear that there may be some additional fishing vessels in your lineup of models in the future, Chris. Variety is the spice of life!
  2. Beautiful, Jean-Paul! I think either the maple or pear would look good but I lean towards the pear for some contrast with the Alaskan Yellow Cedar hull. It might help to the boat over the base along with a piece of maple and then a piece of pear and see how it looks. It will look great either way.
  3. I hope it works out for you, Glenn. It took me a few trials but I eventually got the hang of it and got a decent moulding made...not perfect...but good enough for me.
  4. Google Artesania Latina Micro Shapers (Shapers not Scrapers) and quite a few online sites will come up that have them for sale. There are two sets with different shapes and sizes titled set A and set B. Micromart has both sets but there are other choices also.
  5. There are two different shapers and I got both of mine on eBay. Again, since they are metric, they didn't fit the imperial size strip that I was using but I was able to steady the scraper enough to get the job done.
  6. Adding treenails to my Medway Longboat was the most tedious task of the entire build since there were around 650 or more. I used black monofilament and the method that Chuck recommended. I found it easiest to first cut off several hundred short pieces of monofilament into a container and then drill all the holes on one side of the hull. Next, using tweezers, I would pick up a piece of monofilament and just touch the end very lightly into some CA before carefully placing it into a hole while working under my lighted, magnifier lamp. It's tedious work. The boat looked like a porcupine once I had a piece of monofilament in every hole on one side. Then I snipped off the excess monofilament with my side cutters but, as you noted, they leave a small protrusion of monofilament. I tried using a razor at first to cut them flush but that didn't work for me. So, once all the treenails were in and snipped off, I sanded the entire hull lightly and then added a coat of Satin Wipe-on-Poly. It took me a couple of days to complete just because the repetition is so tiring. Believe me, after a couple hundred, you get better at it! It turned out well and I think it looks great so it was worth the effort.
  7. Glenn, I had a tough time scraping the moulding for my Medway Longboat. I tried cutting patterns into brass, box cutter blades, and razor blades but I couldn't get a nice, smooth, scraped pattern from any of them. I eventually bought a set of Artesania Latina scrapers and, although they didn't fit perfectly because they are metric, I was able to finally scrape a nice pattern on the moulding.
  8. Thanks, Glenn, appreciate you stopping by. I stumbled and fumbled my way with my new airbrush but I finally got a good result and learned a lot in the process. My build is on temporary hold at the moment with some other responsibilities to take care of but I'll be back in my boatyard soon. The rigging instructions and plans in this kit are essentially useless so I have some detective work to do to try and figure things out. I love this boat and its history and I'm determined to finish this build though. Cheers!
  9. Wonderful craftsmanship, Glenn, and a gorgeous result! It's so beautiful you're making me want to build this ship!
  10. Hi Tom, I'm in Sacramento also. Go to the MSW home page and scroll down to the Member's Build Logs area for Model Ship from Kits. This is where members can document their the building of their models, ask questions about the particular model they are building and get advice and feedback. It's easy to do and will provide you with great advice and motivation for experienced modelers.
  11. Would the L130 or the B-01-130 be the most historically correct boat to have on the Le Coureur?
  12. I have been using Titebond Thick & Quick when I know I will need more time to get a piece set correctly. It sets up much faster than regular Titebond and is not runny so it will stick to vertical surfaces and the squeeze out won't run down the piece.
  13. Those are some very nice models, Tom. I hope you will make build logs of your projects. Good luck!
  14. That's an amazing keel, Kevin. I've been using Titebond Thick & Quick a lot and I prefer it over regular Titebond since it sets up quicker and isn't runny.
  15. You can use a good filler and then sand the hull to make a very nice base for your second layer of planking. Take following post is an excellent, brief tutorial regarding an great planking method:
  16. Does model space make their own, unique version of the Constitution or do they just repackage a kit from another company, with permission, and then upgrade the instructions also?
  17. I would also like to know which Constitution kits have the best instructions also?
  18. Nice idea to drill the holes for the sheaves while the stock was still square. I had a bit of a problem getting the holes exactly centered on both sides after I had sanded them to their final, rounded shapes.
  19. Hmmm...I would have been grumpy too especially with a model that is so expensive. I would expect the parts to slot together with excellent precision like we are seeing with the Vanguard models that Chris Watton is making. I'm glad to see you found a way to overcome the problems but, I have to say, that it's a bit disappointing to see some problems crop up from the start.
  20. Thanks, Don. I hope to be back in the boatyard pretty soon. The rigging instructions are useless and the plans are confusing so I have some detective work to do. My son is also home for a visit so I'm taking a break for a few days.
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