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davyboy

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Everything posted by davyboy

  1. The easiest way to control the depth you want is to push the drill bit into the chuck,collet or pin vice leaving only the length you require protruding. No need for tape or colour marking the drill. Also less chance of breaking a small diam drill. Works every time for me Regards, Dave
  2. Hello Daniel, I have a question for you. How can the rudder pendants be used for emergency steering as shown ? In your photos here and the ones you posted of models (and the Victory) in the other thread all show the chains lashed to eyebolts thus preventing the chain from moving. It stands to reason that there should be ringbolts here to allow movement of the chain Unless of course some hapless matelot was hung over the stern to cut the lashings in an emergency to allow movement and the ship to be steered Or am I missing something Kind regards and keep up the good work Dave
  3. It is unlikely that the rudder could unship. A wooden lock was fitted below the upper pintle and gudgeon to prevent the rudder rising upward,this can be seen on the drawing on page 130 of Goodwins' Construction and Fitting. Unfortunately this appears to be missing on the above photo of the H M S Victory. Dave
  4. Hi, I have been trying to start a new a new topic in the museums and ship models section. I put in the title,write text and upload pix,preview the topic and all looks ok but get no joy. I have read Dannys´post. I have no edit or use full editor captions showing, the only boxes I have are underneath both of which show "post new topic" and "preview topic". I tried the new topic button and that did not give me any edit or post button,believe me,I looked everywhere. I am obviously doing something wrong but have no idea what. I have also tried both basic and advanced method of trying to post with no joy. My laptop runs Windows 7 and I am using Firefox. I have no problems attaching pix to ordinary emails. I should add that I am a computer numpty Hope someone can help. Dave
  5. Dip the end of the thread in some cyano glue then cut the thread at an angle. Acts like a needle,will pull through easily. Dave
  6. Hi all,read this article today,may well be of interest to some of our members. I would imagine some more research will have to be carried out though. www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2583165/nelsons Regards, Dave
  7. Paul, You could try the Maritime museum in Aberdeen Scotland they have what I was told is the builders model of the Thermopylae. She was after all built there at the Hall Russell shipyard,perhaps they have plans of her. Regards, Dave
  8. Hi Martijn, Can´t help with UK but check these German suppliers :- www.arkowood-shop.de www.modellbau-holzleisten.de The second one has a big selection of woods in both strip and sheets and is also somewhat cheaper. Dave
  9. The 50 gun ship Tiger after her 1681 rebuild I think,drawing by Van de Velde. If correct please put another up as I don´t have anything myself. Dave
  10. Wonderful Daniel just wonderful. It is hard to imagine what it must have been like on this gundeck with 15 x 32 pounders firing during an action. A medieval vision of hell comes to mind regards, Dave
  11. Per, Thanks for posting this,I posted an article last month about this collection. Pleased to read that it has been bought by the NMM and not some private collector. Dave
  12. Hi Robbyn, Your SF 11 looks really nice with sails. A little tip I read of many years ago re belaying. Pass the line to be belayed through the hole in the pinrail etc then push the belaying pin in the hole. It will hold the line secure while you put on your couple of figure of eight turns,nothing more annoying than losing your hold on the line and it unraveling and slacking off. Can´t be seen once you have put your rope hanks on,yeah,I know that´s cheating Regards, Dave
  13. Hi Antony, I have just looked up ´shot lockers` in my copy of Goodwins´ Construction and Fitting of the Sailing Man of War. He quotes " Similar pieces of timber were worked horizontaly across the transverse bulkheads of the well to support the top and its hinged access hatches". The only access was through those hatches it would seem as no other access is mentioned or can be seen on his drawing. I expect some unlucky matelot had to climb in and pass the shot out No safety footwear in those days Hope this is of help to you, Dave
  14. Hi Adam, At the time of The Prince (1670) English 1st and 2nd Rate ships and Royal Yachts were usually fitted out with brass guns. Don't blacken them,leave them as they are. Dave
  15. Jerry. I am certain that the purpose of this snatch block was as a lead for the Cat Tackle purchase. I don´ t have the Victory AOTS but a snatch block is shown in the Diana and Bellona AOTS books in almost the same place. Was probably a standard fitting as I have also seen them in pix of old Admiralty models. keep up the good work Regards, Dave
  16. Hi Jerry, Glad to have been of help,your replacement looks fine. @ Kevin,in that pic you posted those snatch blocks would not work either as the entry for the rope appears to be covered over. Has to be clear so the rope can be dropped straight onto the sheave. regards, Dave
  17. Hi Jerry,your Vic is coming along nicely. However, may I point out that you have glued the Snatch Blocks on upside down,they could not be used this way regards, Dave
  18. Hi Fraser, Should be a very nice model when finished,there were some very nice ships built in Aberdeen. The Thermopylae being the most famous. If you get no joy with a photo from the Maritime Museum of their model do let me know. My son lives there so I could ask him if he would go and take some pix of her and email them to me,I could then pass them on to you. I would assume one is allowed to take photo´s there. Regards, Dave
  19. Christian, I´ve been following your Diana build for some time. Very nice indeed,you are doing a splendid job on her. I solved the problem with Jotika deadeye strops by winding a few turns of very fine copper wire tight around the neck and a drop of cyano glue to secure it. Can´t be seen when installed in the channels,I never had any pull apart when tensioning the shrouds. Regards, Dave
  20. Michael, Can´t see any kit manufacturer producing a kit of a four masted barque these days. I doubt if there would be enough interest to make it financially viable. Do recall that Pamir kit from way back when,think it may have been by Steingräber As Kester has said,have a look at Brown,Son and Fergusons´website. If you would be interested in doing a scratch build they have plans for 6 four masted barques. Archibald Russell. Herzogin Cecilie. Pommern. Mozart. Parma and Queen Margaret. There are also plans for a 5 master Dave
  21. Daniel, It just gets better and better,absolutely brilliant work. I fully expect that you will be making scale Georgian Furniture for the Great Cabin when you get to that part of your build. Keep up the good work Dave
  22. Hi Sherry, The deck marked #4 is over what was called the Poop Royale. This was used on French and Spanish ships as accommodation for the ships Pilots and Sailing Masters. On English ships it was known as the Topgallant Poop and was originally where the Ships Trumpeters lived. Dave
  23. Hi Derek, I haven´t built this model but FWIW I think they expect you to cut these holes yourself at the correct angle so that the cap is perpendicular to the waterline. The top and bottom edges should run parallel with the bowsprit. I built the C:C. HMS Cruiser which came with the holes pre drilled,a waste of time as they were not angled. Had to make a new bowsprit cap,easy enough to do that. Also,it´s worth checking out the mast caps. When I filed out the mortises to fit the mast tenons they were much too large because of the size of the pre drilled holes. Had to replace all the mast caps too all part of the fun of ship modeling I guess Regards, Dave
  24. Hi Chris, That is one beautiful model you are making. One question if I may,should there not be slots cut in the deck planking to allow the steering gear ropes to move in a fore and aft direction as the wheel is turned ? The rope would wear out rapidly if only going through holes. Ed T shows this on his Naiad build. It would then be easy to slide the rope coils on the drum forward a bit to centralize them. Just a thought though. Maybe American shipbuilders didn´t do this. Happy to see your build back on the forum again,you must be a very busy man with twins to keep you occupied. A 24/7 job for sure. Dave
  25. Danny, What wonderful workmanship you are accomplishing on your HMS Vulture. Your bulkheads are superb. FWIW,in Goodwins´ Construction and Fitting on Page 116 he states when fitted under the break of the poop the upper section was glazed. I would think this would be the same under the quarterdeck, anyhow yours look great. Also says that each bulkhead section was located at the bottom by the retaining sill which spanned the entire length of the bulkhead,no mention of cut-outs for the doors. He states that these sills were secured to the deck with Muntz keybolts. I would assume that these were easily removeable to allow the sills to also be taken down below when clearing for action. Didn´t have pip-pins in those days Look forward every day to reading your log. Dave
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