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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. ccoyle
    I used to have 22 in my basement. It was a recipe for burn-out. Now I have none. 😁
  2. ccoyle
    Hello, OF. A good way to get a feel for good beginner models is to look at what other beginners have completed as their first projects. You can click here to see a list of such projects. Take note of what the finished build logs have in common: most are smallcraft with simple rigs, and three-masted, full-rigged ships are the exception rather than the norm. Also, read our Cautionary Tale post, if you haven't already. Cheers!
  3. ccoyle
    Welcome! You finished your first model, and that is the most important thing. And besides, it looks good, too! Cheers!
  4. ccoyle
    That sums up my knowledge of them as well.
  5. ccoyle
    Yes, they do.
  6. ccoyle
    (waves wand) **POOF** Done!
  7. ccoyle
    I appreciate the little things in the design, like having the tick marks at the stem and stern to guide affixing the planks. But the system isn't 100% foolproof -- there's a little bit of wiggle room in where to glue the false stem and stern posts, and that can effect how the planks are laid. I'm just hoping that in my WH build that I've got everything close enough, and that error creep won't become a major factor. It's a good thing that this isn't a Halinski kit -- with Halinski, the design tolerances are so tight that if you get off by even a fraction of a millimeter, you're in deep, deep doo-doo.
  8. ccoyle
    Your patience appears to be paying off, as so far it looks good!
  9. ccoyle
    Panart. You can see an example here.
  10. ccoyle
    In Mariposa County, California, where I used to live, the winding Highway 49 North traversed the very deep Merced River gorge, with no guard rails. I once asked a friend of mine in the sheriff's office how many vehicles were somewhere down in the canyon out of sight from the road and beyond the reach of tow cables; his answer was something along the lines of "more than people realize."
  11. ccoyle
    I'm going to agree with Jonny, who has rightly observed that the Bounty is not an ideal kit for a beginner. A larger problem as I see it is the "month or two" time frame that you mentioned. Some of our members who are retired and also seasoned model makers can pull off something like that in a month or two, but you are looking at a project that will take you a minimum of several hundred hours to complete, even you knew what you were doing. As a beginner, it will likely take much longer. Jonny's suggestion about the longboat is a good one. It's been a popular beginner's kit around here. Cheers!
  12. ccoyle
    😂
  13. ccoyle
    Welcome!
  14. ccoyle
    Reached a milestone of sorts today. The hull planking can be roughly divided into lower hull and upper hull, and I have finished the lower part -- the upper hull planking requires the installation of the upper stem and stern posts before proceeding. This brings us to the 12th page of the instruction booklet 😊 -- out of 39 pages 🥺 .
  15. ccoyle
    Welcome, Bill. With the aid of Chuck's practicum, you can achieve a great result. Have fun!
  16. ccoyle
    Very nice! I owned this kit many years ago, but never got around to building it. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress on it. Cheers!
  17. ccoyle
    Per Google Translate (which apparently is also not 100% fluent in Japanese): Thank you for rating. It is 1/100 made by Corel. Repeatedly deforming and omitting details. The Stan side is currently under consideration.
  18. ccoyle
    Welcome! Dromon, eh? Then you need to read through this build log. Enjoy!
  19. ccoyle
    It's not. I'm guessing that's just a suggestion in the manufacturer's instructions. Wood glue will do the job just fine, and you can clamp the piece to make sure it fits snugly to the curve.
  20. ccoyle
    Here's the cased model in its natural setting. It's pretty small, even in a case!
  21. ccoyle
    12.5" L x 7.5" W x 7.6" H, as reported on their website. I assume they mean external dimensions.
  22. ccoyle
    One final picture. I wanted to find a case option for this little model that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg. Most small cases found at hobby and craft stores have dimensions meant for cars, trains, or sports memorabilia, i.e. usually too wide and/or too short for a given length. I finally found this case at a local Michael's crafts store. It is a football display case, hence the mirrored back, and it might be a tad too large, but for only $30 I thought it was quite suitable. There was a little plastic holder for a football inside the case, but happily it was only secured with some two-sided tape. I think I will keep an eye open for a small wooden base to go inside the case to elevate the model slightly, and I will also order a brass nameplate.
  23. ccoyle
    Ha! Good one -- I'll have to remember that for future use. I'm using RapidFuse, a medium-cure CA from DAP. For the lapstrake planks, I apply CA to the bulkheads and planks end, the brush on some PVA on the overlapping plank edge. This has worked well so far on the first four such planks.
  24. ccoyle
    So, I fixed my way around the slight fit problem. This shot shows the last of the flush-fit planking belts near the keel. Subsequent strakes will overlap slightly, lapstrake-style. Couple of things to take note of as shown in the next photo. In the instructions, the plank bits are marked with arrows pointing toward the bow. The kit parts did not have these marks. Second thing is to note that the clamp in the instructions photo only catches the tip of the plank being glued. Clamping the plank to the stem or stern piece along the entire edge will crimp the plank and create a depression in the hull. I learned this the hard way. 🙄 I achieved a better result by using medium-cure CA at the plank end and holding it in place while the glue set; it should really be only an edge-to-edge join.
  25. ccoyle
    I see the difference now between this and the wooden kit -- the wooden kit does not have a first layer of hull skinning, hence the differences in the parts numbers.

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