ccoyle
-
Posts
9,532 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by ccoyle
-
Wow. In doing more online research regarding the landing gear, I have become even more mortified about this kit's design. Not only are the gear doors not the right length, it turns out they are not the correct shape, either. On top of that, the torque bars are wrong as well -- the kit places them on the front of each strut, but pictures of the actual plane online show them on the back. 😑😑😑 Ignorance would have been bliss in this case. EDIT: Just discovered that the locator marks for the door brackets are not in the correct locations and do not match what is shown in the diagrams. Since the gear design is obviously a complete cluster-you-know-what, I'm just going to slap the main doors on and call them done. -
Me too! A very credible result and a testament to what can be accomplished with a plastic kit. Congratulations!
-
Hope you don't mind I made the meaning of your title a little clearer. Good luck on your project!
-
I'm hating this model at the moment. I'm not hating the subject -- the subject is fine, and the artwork is lovely. No, what I don't like at the moment is the design of the kit and its very apparent shortcomings. As you may recall, I have been slowly working on the landing gear, which have some very tricky and delicate parts. I got those bits done -- not great results, but at least they're done. Then came the gear doors. First we have the brackets that mount the doors to the struts. There are three of them, and they're all labeled as part 62. Not 62a, 62b, and 62c -- just 62. And there is no way to easily tell from the diagrams which order they're supposed to go in from top to bottom. I made an educated guess, and I don't think I guessed correctly. Next we have the landing gear diagrams. This frontal view shows the main gear door reaching up to about 2 mm shy of the wing. Yeah, about that . . . Yep, that's closer to being a 10 mm gap. Some more surgery is in order. 😑 What's really annoying about this is that this is the third Marek Paczynski design I have attempted, and every one of them has had design issues (one proved unbuildable). Worryingly, I have a bunch more Paczynski designs in the stash. 😒 But, I will press on with this one, since it is so close to being done. Stay tuned!
- 80 replies
-
- 14
-
-
Welcome aboard!
-
If you can get your hands on a copy of Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini, he shows a simplified planking technique using the very similar Bluenose kit from Artesania Latina. A historically correct technique is not absolutely required if you intend to paint your model. A couple of bits of general advice: Avoid using the nails, unless you intend to remove them prior to sanding. There are better techniques for the job. The Amati design uses shamefully few bulkheads. Adding some pine or basswood filler blocks between them, then sanding them down to match the hull contours, will make planking much easier. Cheers!
-
You know the old adage about form follows function, and some of the homeliest ships perform some of the most vital services.
-
I am making agonizingly slow progress on this model, literally a couple of parts here and there every couple of days -- really having to push through on this one. In the meantime, I pulled the trigger on purchasing two additional Halinski kits to add to my stash, a Kawanishi N1K2-J Shiden-Kai (George) and a Messerschmitt Bf-109E-7/Trop. Both kits have been sold out at Halinski's web site for ages, and I have been scouring the internet off and on for a couple of years now in search of the N1K2-J. I knew of one web site that had that kit, but their shipping charges are astronomical, so I held out while looking for a cheaper source -- never did find one. When I recently saw that the expensive shop still has a copy, I decided to order it in spite of the stiff shipping charge. I added the 109E-7 to defray some of the cost and added laser-cut frames and a canopy to complete the deal (the site didn't have those items for the Kawanishi, but Halinski still has them). Let the waiting begin . . .
- 80 replies
-
- 11
-
-
Congrats! I always love a good working boat.
- 18 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- Pot Pie Skiff
- Wye River Models
- (and 1 more)
-
Welcome aboard!
-
Beautiful -- but your finished model should really be displayed in the gallery.
-
Your friendly neighborhood moderator can do the job for you. 😉
-
Love the vending machines -- they bring back memories.
-
Your work has paid off handsomely! Congratulations!
- 602 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Flying Fish
- Model Shipways
- (and 2 more)
-
Still, I think, doesn't quite match the level of idiotic self-immolation seen years ago in my infamous "absentmindedly transferring the hot plank bending iron from one hand to the other" incident.
-
Looking good! I look forward to seeing her in her case.
- 21 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Swift
- Artesania Latina
- (and 2 more)
-
I should add that not all acrylic paints are created equally. I use cheap, craft store paints for my card models, and for that purpose the coarse pigments used in such paints are not an issue. For wooden models, I recommend that you use acrylics specifically formulated for models -- they have finer pigments and will thus produce smoother finishes.
-
Either will do. It largely depends on what you're used to working with. Personally, I use acrylics simply because they're cheaper, they clean up with water, and I don't use an airbrush.
-
Been almost a year now, so time to give this message a bump! Take heed, please! This means that @Old Rentner, @ExPat , @Начинающий судомоделист, @clearway, and @Rvandg: YOU ARE CURRENTLY AT RISK OF HAVING YOUR LOOSE GALLERY IMAGES DELETED. Please move them into albums soon! If you need help with creating an album, contact a moderator. Thank you!
-
I'd suggest removing the wood between two bulkheads, then glue in a basswood plug to make a base for the replacement planks.
Our Emblem ®
