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Everything posted by ccoyle
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Posting video
ccoyle replied to Valkyrja68's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
As far as copyright goes, it is better to post a link to an outside source such as a video. If it's your own video, then I believe you can simply use the attachment toolbar at the bottom of the reply window. If you find interesting ship-related stuff online, you can post about in either the Nautical/Naval History sub-forum or the Nautical General Discussion sub-forum, whichever is more appropriate. -
No clue, but the first builder got it off to a good start.
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Different kit philosophies appeal to different modelers. I admire those who enjoy spiling and are good at it. I have accomplished the feat myself, but I don't particularly enjoy it. I have built a kit from Master Korabel that had pre-spiled planking, and I enjoyed that build very much. As I always say, some people just enjoy putting things together (without having to manufacture all of the parts in addition). I like to build card models; it involves not only assembling, but also cutting out and shaping hundreds, sometimes thousands, of printed parts. It's not a process that appeals to everyone. Fortunately, our hobby has plenty of room for modelers of all types.
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BLASPHEMER!! Just kidding, of course. Wire might indeed be easier, but in this instance there are no templates provided, so there would be a lot of guesswork about where to make all the bends. Here's the first two pipes -- the easiest ones 😳 cuz they're just straight pieces. They get pretty bendy after this. Fortunately, the paper parts are printed on regular paper, not card stock, and they are the perfect size to wrap around 0.5 mm styrene rod. Also, I'm sealing the joints with thin CA, and any paper discoloration that results is virtually impossible to notice.
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Ya know, we have some interesting indigenous types on this side of the pond . . . 😉
- 29 replies
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- well smack
- Vanguard Models
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Step 18: Funnel (cont'd) Moving forward, or backward in this instance, we come back to the funnel. The basic stack has been glued down to the hull, along with two ducts (I assume one for each of her two boilers). Here's where it gets dicey. There's a can-load of pipes to be added. These can be built using either flat parts or optional rolled tubes. Here's the parts for the tubes. 😬 Of course, what I'll likely do is attempt the tubes and fall back on the flat parts if things don't work out to my liking. Fingers crossed!
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Congrats, Tim! You achieved a very fine result.
- 164 replies
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- fly
- Victory Models
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Kev, no matter which way you decide, don't be put off by whether sails are included or not. Sails are not difficult to make yourself, so it is far more important that at least a good sail plan is included.
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Sometimes yes, sometimes no. Sometimes it is easier to do the edge coloring after the thing is put together.
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A few questions: Are you looking for a Baltimore clipper in particular, or just any ol' topmast schooner? The OcCre kit is not a Baltimore clipper; the other two are. Have you got a budget? Do you want a historically accurate model (or at least reasonably so)?
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So, I don't believe I told anyone around here about what happened to the poor Sha-Sam-Kat. After taking her out for only the fourth time last year, I had her turned over on the lawn to dry after rinsing out some dirt. A few hours later, I flipped her over and lo and behold -- the seat had fallen out! Not only that, but some of the paint had reacted badly with the seat's contact cement, causing the paint to peel up. Needless to say, I was not pleased. In the meantime, my womenfolk had taken over my work area and proceeded to use it for a seemingly endless series of furniture refinishing projects (which the two of them are actually pretty good at), and it only became available again just this week. So, step one was to remove all of the old contact cement residue and peeled paint, then sand down the area. Fortunately, I still have leftover paint from the original work, and here's the Kat after two coats of primer. Next will be several coats of the top color. Each has to dry for at least 16 hours before the next coat can be applied, so I might have the repair done by next weekend. By then, her new and better replacement seat should have arrived, at which time I'll post a pic of the finished work. Cheers!
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19: 20mm Gun Tubs So, skipping ahead for a bit as suggested by the instructions, I thought I'd show a bit more of how one of the sub-assemblies comes together, featuring the second starboard 20mm gun tub. This took about 2 hours to build. 🤪 First, some of the sub-assemblies of the sub-assembly. Oddly enough, the laser-cut detail set did not include ladders for the two Step 19 tubs -- go figure. To help maintain the shape of the tub while gluing its floor and wall together, I joined the two parts together around the end of a dapping tool handle. And here's the finished tub mounted to the hull. One more tub to go!
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One suggestion I would offer is to make your panel lines much lighter. If you look at pictures of contemporary ships, you'll notice that sail seams are scarcely discernible, if at all. You can see how I did this by clicking here.
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- Constitution
- Revell
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Welcome aboard! Many of us, myself included, started in this hobby by building plastic models in our teen years. Good luck with your project!
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