KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Greg, Pat, Keith - thank you for your comments and your continuing encouragement. I am still avoiding the pedestals for the deck cleats. So I made a start on the support struts for the bulwarks. They are steel in real life but for the model they will be brass. At the location where the shrouds attach to the rail the bulwark has a reinforcing plank. This sits under the capping rail and in consequence the support struts in this area are shorter and lean at an increased angle. The struts are made out of .050" soft brass wire rolled straight between blocks of wood. I first drilled a .100" deep x .050" diameter hole in a piece of scrap mild steel to take the wire and with the wire inserted in the steel I used a jewellers saw to cut about 2/3 of the way through it. I bent each wire by eye to fit. I marked out the position of the reinforcing plank and installed the struts accordingly. The reinforcing plank was then glued in position and clamped. This was repeated for the 4 locations where the shrouds attach to the bulwark rail.
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Gary - one of the best bits about building classic yacht models is the admiring comments made by household visitors. I think you will get many. Your build speed was impressive and the resulting model is a fine execution of this kit. Well done. I look forward to seeing the picture of Endeavour in her display location.
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Deck looking lovely - I should have said this earlier and in fact it probably does not matter on the model. Sheets go round the winch a minimum of 3 times. If they go round only twice insufficient friction is generated to hold them in place as the tail is released from the cleat. A lesson I learned the hard way when the sheet pulled through my hand and took all the skin off my palm and upper part of my fingers, not much fun when medical facilities are many hours away. The other lesson was always wear sailing gloves.
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Gary - all very nice - but!!! - the sheets normally go round the winches in a clockwise direction. The winches turning clockwise to wind in the sheets in.
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A very attractive model - excellent work.
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All looking very nice Gary. The problem with making such quick progress is that you have to start thinking about the next build sooner.
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Hi Paul - yes I agree B****y cold in the shed. I bet the cat had more sense.
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I am fighting the urge to do another small fitting production run - namely making the pedestals for the deck cleats. Finding anything to distract me from the task seems to be the imperative of the day. For a while I have been looking at what to me seemed to be an enormous dip in the line of the bulwark at the stern - the product of overly aggressive sanding. I decided to fix it. I started by taking an A4 sized sheet of sheet MDF and laying it over the stern. Then with a set of feeler gauges I measured the dip (gap between MDF and the Bulwark). It turned out to be .025" on one side and .020" on the other. It is surprising how the eye detects and the mind magnifies such errors. The dip extended over a length of about 5 inches and tapered from the measured dimensions in the centre to nothing at the ends. To repair the problem I cut mahogany strips of .030 thickness and attached them to the top of the bulwarks with PVA glue. I then applied weights to hold the strips down while the glue dried. The strips were over wide to allow for the curvature of the bulwark and once glued had to be sanded back on the edges to conform with the bulwark profile. Careful sanding was required and inevitably this led to the sanding away of some of the previously completed paintwork - as always in this hobby one job leads to another. Having sanded the edges I glued an A4 sheet of 120 grit sandpaper to the previously mentioned sheet of MDF and then used this to sand back the top edge and establish a much more pleasing top line. In the next photo you can see the repair. The residual paint just about lets you see the old and new top lines. The final shape is much more pleasing - or this at least this is what my imagination tells me.
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Michael -thank you - that is what I assumed you meant and is what I will experiment with.
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Michael - I will add it to the experimentation list. I did do a bit of sanded deck wood filling around the hawse pipe holes (albeit this area was hidden under the brass rubbing rings). I did find that the filler was somewhat darker than the wood but this may have been caused by the PVA.
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Of course in my case I am either too thick or too old to contemplate expending what little precious time I have left learning CAD - although I do admire Vaddoc's skills. When I was taught drawing I seem to remember the pinnacle of skill was sanding the correct wedge on the end of the pencil - .012" thick for scheme drawings and .025" thick for detail drawings. Life was easier in those days.
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Excellent work Gary. I spent part of today trying to make .080" OD eyebolts so I have every sympathy with your approach.
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Julie - I tried a number of cards - basically looking for the least fibrous and smoothest surfaced I could find. I then experimented with the best and found this card produced the optimum results.
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Gary - I thought the set of steps were one of the more unusual workshop tools I have seen on MSW. Well done on the sails.
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Phil, I do admire folks who have the patience and dexterity to take on miniature carvings. Well done.
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Druxey, Gary, Pat, John, Mark, GL, Paul. Thank you all for your comments, and many thanks to all those that have liked my build. I have had an unproductive few days - so only a little progress to report. The tender sits on the deck on protective metal strips. At the end of each strip is an eyebolt and a number of additional eyebolts form the anchor points for the boat lashings. The deck bosses for the boat lashing points are smaller than those for the rigging eyebolts. Narrow necked eyebolts are required for these lashing points. The metal strips were cut from .015" brass sheet. They needed to be .080" wide. They could have easily been cut with tin snips (or even a craft knife) but I decided cutting them on the mill would produce a better result. I cut strips of the required width using a slitting saw with the brass sheet mounted vertically in the vice and supported by a piece of scrap wood. The strips were then cut to length, the ends profiled and holes drilled to match the deck holes. Finally the strips were polished and mounted on the deck.
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Gary - have a look at https://www.jclassyachts.com/yachts. The official site of the J Class Association. You can see Endeavour is JK4. Although I accept that this isn't proof that it had the same number in 1934.
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Julie - this one is Germania. You can find it in the scratch build section. I have described the deck build in some detail.
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Julie - the card version for comparison - sanded but not sealed And sealed with 7 coats of matt poly.
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I am desperate not to make a business out of them Pat. Yes good point Mark - and I'm not sure how I could test that out. Three mind numbing days later and I had produced 100 of the standard sized eyebolts. I also produced about 30 with a narrower neck. To answer Pauls earlier question about bending them out of wire - my thought was that I would struggle to get them exactly identical and as many were mounted in close proximity I was concerned that differences would be too noticeable. Here is an example where a run of 8 eyebolts are close together and orientated in the same direction. I have installed them with an alignment rod in place to get the orientation and height correct. Shims were used under the bar to set the height. The eyes were glued in place with CA. Here is the same group with the alignment bar removed.
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