Chuck

Started on the main mast. Because it is best to use the same wood as the rest of the project, a 3/8" x 3/8" square strip of cedar is being used. You could obviously replace this with a dowel of another wood already rounded off but the difference in wood texture and color would really stick out. Most of the mast and boom and gaff etc will NOT be painted. Its a good thing to try if you havent done so...rounding off a square strip like this. First I used the template provided to line out the strip with a 7/10/7 ratio. Just transfer the tick marks for the two center lines every four of five inches down each side of the mast. Using a 7/10/7 ratio will create a perfect octagon after the corners are shaved away. This is being done to make it easier to turn this in a lathe or chocked in a hand drill. The strip is 20" long and its much longer than you will need so there is plenty of meat on either side to chock this in your hand drill. Then connect you lines with a sharp pencil so you have a guide when slicing and planing off the four corners. I used a sharp #11 blade to shave and whittle off the corners almost down to the lines. It doesnt have to be perfect.....then I ran a sanding stick across the flats created. Then drill the holes that will be needed for the sheaves you will simulate on the mast later. There are three. It is easier to do this now while the strip is square. This is what my mast looks like after I shaved off the corners. Its ready for me to chock in my hand drill and taper it. This will take a while to do and be sure you use a mask because it makes a lot of dust. Here is a photo of how I do it in my hand drill.....this is from another project. I believe this is the lower mast for Cheerful. Or if you are lucky enough to own a lathe, that would be a good choice. I didnt worry about creating the small shoulder or stepped portion of the mast for the longboat. I will do that by hand once I create the general taper. In the end the lower part of the mast turned out slightly smaller than 3/8" which is just perfect. Then finally, I was able to finish up those sheaves so they looked good. To simulate the sheaves I used a #11 blade and some round needle files....you can use whatever you feel most comfortable with. Here is the final results. This was done after I created the stepped portion or "shoulder in the mast as you can see. This was just done by hand. The cedar worked very well for this operation and I was happy with the results. More to follow....

Looks very good....nice save. I am so happy that everyone has decided to use the version with the lap joints. I wonder if its even worthwhile to keep including the other version??? Maybe a better idea would be to just include two sets of the lap joint version. Anyway, you are doing great. Chuck

Looking good...keep up the fine work.

There is very little curve there actually and you would be surprised how much it will still show when done. So I would use very little curve up there. You show so much more than is needed. See below. Chuck

That looks very good. I would also mention that you should try not to remove any char from the edges of these planks other than what is needed to adjust them for a tight fit. If you get any gaps between strakes, sand the to close the gaps but that should be it otherwise you run the risk of sanding your planks too narrow and you wont be able to follow your lining out marks. It really isnt needed to get a tight fit....and you will be running a pencil over the edges to simulate caulking anyway. Chuck

Really nice...everything fit just perfectly...😊

They both look great. The joints are nice and crisp. You should be very happy with those results. I also hope this little project gets your modeling juices flowing again.

That looks good to my eye..... Chuck

That looks good. Dont forget to use those two templates at the bow and stern to check how your lining off matched with mine. This is important only because you guys are using planks that are laser cut and spiled to fit my lining off. Chuck

Yes that is correct.....they should match up so both sides are the same.

Yes you should line off both sides.

Looking really good. Nice crisp photos as well.

Part Three - PartThree.pdf is now available

Really nice work. Might want to add the bolts first before you add the transom.

I believe its just this famous photo......no copyright isues so its OK to post.

They go above it to increase the thickness of that area. In fact best placed along the top edge of the frame. The direction of the grain being opposite in most cases to the frame piece. This gives it strength and will not be seen after the frame centers are removed and the inboard sheer strake is added. If you use a thin strip that is only 3/64" wide or 1/16" wide...you dont even have to remove them. Just leave them at the top of each frame after you remove the centers. They wont be seen at all. Notice them on the top of each frame below (the first two frames at the bow)....after fairing. The second photo shows the same area after the inboard sheer strake is added. They are completely concealed. Having said this..they can easily be shaved off with a sharp xacto blade if you insist on doing so before you finish planking. Once you have planked the exterior except for the last two sheer strakes, you can slice and shave them away down to the frame edge. But that is up to you.

Even if you didnt remove it at all.....it wont be seen. There is an inboard sheer strake that is wide enough to completely cover these little strips. It wont be seen even if you leave them there. Try not to over think it!!!!! Also.....you will be thinning down the frames at the sheer so much that the frame will only be about 3/64" - 1/16" wide. See the photo.....I never removed the strengthening strips on the frames. Everything is just peachy!!!

I have seen your affliction many many times before. Being in a hurry wont do you any favors. This is not a project that will take you much time so there is no need to race through it. In this scale and with this subject....any sloppy craftsmanship will stick out like a sore thumb. SLOOOOW and steady. Chuck

Fill the gaps with elmers wood filler. Its almost an exact match to the color of the cedar. Especially after sanding and applying wipe on poly. Chuck

I am sure it will look just fine. Try not to get discouraged. I am enjoying watching your progress... Chuck

Really nice!!!! Just as it is supposed to look at this stage. Chuck

Thats pretty normal for shipping wood actually. Although the handling charge is crazy. It doesnt matter what the species. I am fortunate to have a local source for my Cedar and just drive to pick it up. I would recommend that you try and find such a source. You would be surprised by what your local lumberyards carry. In addition please keep calling different places.....you will find a place that doesnt rip you off on shipping. There are dozens of such suppliers. My local guy doesnt ship at all. He just supplies local builders. Its pick-up only. Chuck

You can actually still use the first version. It doesnt matter a whole lot that it doesnt fit snug. The inboard side will be painted red. It will be fine. Chuck

How goes progress on this beauty? 😊 You are doing such a great job on this Cheerful.

Not if your careful. But i think that would be too much of the light wood visually speaking. At least for my tastes, but this is a very personal thing based on your own tastes.