Chuck

Uri....its great to see how you built the pump.  I held them in my hands at the show and they are a marvel to look at and feel.  The "pump-action"  can be felt when you move the crank.  

Thank you so much for posting.  I cant wait to see them on your brig.  You should also start a build log for the entire project.

I hope to see you again real soon.

Chuck

Thank you very much Christian.  

That is a vast improvement.  It look quite well done.  I would consider replacing that missing bullhead for stability and smoothness of planking.  But other than that...no ugly bulge.

Chuck

You can only post up to 10 images in each post.

That is the maximum in each post.

Chuck

I dont know as I didnt draft those plans myself.  But as you point out,  that bulged shape of the Triton framing is clearly not correct.  The plans were developed so long ago.  I can not even remember who drafted the full hull plans.  However,   it is clear that there would be no easy way for us to correct them at this point.   The individuals who drafted them are long gone from the site and we only have the plans you are now using to build upon.

Should anyone wish to compare the Triton frames with the NMM draft and isolate the offending Cant frames...it would be much appreciated.  In the spirit of this community project,  It would be welcomed for anyone who might wish to correct the offending frames and send them to me for replacement.

I couldnt even begin to wrap my head around yet another project to investigate and correct these issues myself so any assistance from a member building her would be appreciated and welcomed.  As you know only someone who is familiar with the Triton lines or is currently building her could quickly devise some sort of remedy.

It is this kind of MSW community project that hopefully lends itself to a collaborative refinement over time..   

Chuck

Thank Thomas...but the Kudos go to you.       You are doing a super job on it.  The Carronades look fantastic.

Chuck

From the old site,  I will once again create a post about this company.  This guy is pure evil.  If you you send him your money you will never see a product.  He is also not licensed to sell any of them. He is a crook and it is well documented.  I deleted a topic promoting it by an unsuspecting Jpet...

For those of you that dont know them.....stay away.  Dont even think about it.

I hope that was clear.

This guy should be in jail.

There was a long topic on the old site where the owner and crook himself took part in the conversation.  He is a disgrace.

Chuck

Everything looks just right.  Nice work.

Chuck

I understand your opinion...but its starting to become laborious for folks.  The issue at hand is that the photos are almost identical and there is no content except for the word "continuation"  this adds little value and makes it awkward and time consuming for folks to read through the logs.  It takes too long for folks on dial-up to view them as individual posts as well.  I would ask that you limit your amount of duplicate photos (except for scale they are the same) and try posting more than one in each post.  If you are just writing the word "continuation"  there is no reason what-so-ever to just continue it on the the same post...even separate it with the word continuation if you like.  But keep them in one post rather than eight or ten.

Thanks for understanding and complying.

Chuck

Garward...Please try and place more than one photo on each post.  Its getting really crazy with only one photo in each post.  I see many duplicates as well.  I will delete those that have the same image twice.  Do you you need help figuring out how to place mpre than photo in a post??

Thanks

Chuck

Oh no its not wire at all.  It is indeed painted. Some larger barges had some carving though.

Chuck

Yupp....and I personally clarified this....just do the acknowledgement and if you want to go the extra nine-yards place a link as well.  See below...

Access to and use of ‘www.rmg.co.uk’ and content provided on these pages is provided by the National Maritime Museum (NMM) on the following terms:

• By using www.rmg.co.uk you agree to be bound by these terms, which shall take effect immediately on your first use of www.rmg.co.uk. If you do not agree to be bound by all of the following terms please do not access, use and/or contribute to www.rmg.co.uk
• The NMM may change these terms from time to time and so you should check these terms regularly. Your continued use of www.rmg.co.uk will be deemed acceptance of the updated or amended terms.
• If there is any conflict between these terms and specific local terms appearing elsewhere on www.rmg.co.uk then the latter shall prevail.

Permitted uses

We encourage you to use www.rmg.co.uk to extend your knowledge of the Museum and its topics. Subject to certain limitations, there is no copyright infringement by ‘fair dealing’, which includes use of www.rmg.co.uk content for one of the following purposes:

• private study 
• non-commercial research
• inclusion of content in thesis produced by students who are attending an educational establishment
• criticism and review (and news reporting)
• downloading content and storing a copy on a temporary basis for the sole purpose of viewing such content without alteration or addition.

Where the NMM has the right to do so, and where indicated, it has also made its collection records and images available for non commercial reuse under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-Non-Commercial-ShareAlike (CC BY-NC-SA) licence http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/.

There are many variations.   This is just one example.   I decided to go with a single banked longboat at only 26 ft long.   This example from the NMM is much larger.  But you may add more oarlocks if you like.  It would not be historically inaccurate   Also  The way the shrouds are shown here are more accurate.  They were simplified in the kit rather than use the hooked method.  You will notice that most of the lines are hooked..    The hooks allow for quick demasting when the boat is to be stowed or set up for sail.  I did decide to add the hooked back stays though.   Rather than just tie them off at the cap rail as I thought it would look too kit-like.  The rope coils on the back stays are the falls from the tackle.  They are belayed to the line above the block as done on the kit.   Thats why I posted these.   Just in case folks want to go the whole nine yards with it.  The scale makes it difficult though but it would really kick it up a notch.

Chuck

With several of you folks starting to rig the longboat I figured it would be good to post these images of a rigged longboat from the NMM.  And before anyone remarks how they may be copyright...I checked into the images and they are not as long as you credit the NMM.

SO....."These images are provided generously from the NMM for our educational use"  and are not stored in our database.  Our site is pulling the images direct from the NMM site.  We are just pointing to what is already made available to the public.

• Collection images must always credit ‘National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London’ and link to the original collection record on the NMM collections website.
• Collections Online

  The NMM has developed an Application Programming Interface (API) to make it easy for individuals and organisations to share its collection records and images with the public. If you need to download more than 25 images at a time, you are encouraged to use the API.

  • Collection images must always credit ‘National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London’ and link to the original collection record on the NMM collections website.
  • Do not make an unreasonable number of API calls or compromise the experience of other users. As a guide, you should make no more than 3000 calls per day and no more than one request per second. We may place more formal limits on the API in the future.
  • The maximum allowed enlargement of images is 1200 pixels along the longest length of the image. Do note that these images are made available for non-commercial use only.

  Please contact the Picture Library if you would like to use the NMM’s collection records under different conditions.

Got that out of the way.

Enjoy.  They show the rigging very clearly.  Click on them and they are even larger.

Chuck

As you can see the gaff is not heavy enough to stop the rigging from bunching up.  I put the tiniest drop of glue on the inside ofthe jaws and then applied some pressure on the tip of the gaff so the rigging was pulled tight.  I used CA glue.   To instantly lock it in,  I used some CA accelerator.   I just put some on a paint brush and hit the area with the drop of glue.   You can see how it makes a world of difference. My rigging looked slack like yours until I did that.   See the photo of it afterwards.

Chuck

Nope we dont.....but if you want to put one together or if someone wants to get that info in a spreadsheet...it would be awesome.  

We would gladly post it.  I am sure that old one that Floyd has probably needs some updating as well.

Chuck

What specifically are you looking for??  If it is one article in particular,  call the NEG office and talk to Julie.  She can Photocopy a particular article for a nominal fee.

585-968-8111 for Julie

Or email her.

Chuck

Not for several months.   It really doesnt mean I have to give up the Winchelsea.   In fact,  I was in teh shop just now planking up her port side.  Only 3 strakes to go.   I just have to set aside one day for each size of blocks to start building up a stock of them.  They wont be ready for a while but they will be available at some point.  I have to create a website to make ordering easier and I will be putting my Rigging line and cannon up there as well.

So stay tuned.  It may not be until the fall but it will get done.  Looking to have the Winniw planked up this weekend so I can start treenailing.

Chuck

Janv, there is a company in Sweden that has extreme high quality blocks. WWW.eskader.se then change language to English. Good luck

Check out those prices though....at least in US dollars.   $30 for 20 blocks.  Thats nuts.   Here is what they look like.  I have seen these while researching my own.

Here is the one I would use........but its for an admiral.   You can also just use the standard.  But its harder to make in this scale.

http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/668.html

Chuck

I have been in research and testing mode for the last three months on these.  Finally have it all nailed down.   I wont be able to start actual production for a while but I do have all of my earlier test runs....

I am going to bring them to my next local meeting but if there are any left over I will certainly offer them here too.  They are all the small 2mm and 3/32" blocks.  They are the only sizes I was testing regularly.  I have about 300 in each size,  singles and doubles with varying size slots and holes...some have no holes.  For example...I have about 300 single 3/32" blocks with no sheave holes.  They are slotted though.

After my meeting I will post what I have left.  If you guys dont mind drilling your holes I have tons of those.  I was testing to just get the shape and sheave slots correct.  I hate to throw them away.

Chuck

I couldnt come up with anything for sure and thats why it was omitted from the kit.  I did look at some contemporary paintings though.  They had such a variety that it was impossible to choose.  Go to the NMM site and search for long boat, pinnaces and cutters...it will bring up lots of paintings.  Also battle scenes which showed them but you have to get creative with teh search terms.

Chuck

        Its gonna be a while until I build up some stock....but "Chucky Blocks" are coming soon.       

Lets take  a look.   

Model Expo price for 3/32" single blocks 100 QTY = $20  You know what these look like 

Lloyd's price ..................................................... = $35

Jerzy's price - 2 mm .......................................... = $45

My price in boxwood will be ............................... = $27

Expo blocks compared to Warner's blocks below

My blocks compared to Jerzy;s (Jerzy's on the right) 2mm

And another shot of my 2mm blocks...the single blocks on the right have no finish on them yet the doubles have some wipe-on-poly.  This is an old image that doesnt show any strop groove.  I will have to take some new pics once I start up production.  These were basically my tests....I have made some adjustments (sheave slots wider slightly so the holes for rigging can be larger).

Hopefully soon.....depending on how much interest in this there is out there. 

Here you go guys....some contemporary examples.  Yes I used the model in the Rogers collection as my basis for rigging the tiller but you can use these also.  Here are two more contemporary models that show a similar approach.  Note: that even though the tiller is longer on the  Rogers collection model, have a look at how the tiller rigging interferes with the last carronade in its port.  After reviewing several other options,  I thought it more important to make sure the rigging for the tiller is clear of the last carronade.  On Syren and on Argus,  the configurartion wouldnt have worked without making the last carronade useless in action.

But yes...the two blocks on the deck below the wheel should be added.  I omitted them for two reasons.  I found a good example in the lightley model which shows it that way...I knew folks would have access to it.  The blocks supplied in the kit are huge as you know.  They would have looked so out of scale and clunky that I took the aesthetic route and omitted them.  If there were any kit builders that didnt take the time to reshape their blocks and just used the square ones supplied....it would have looked absolutely horrific.

The tiller is actually much too long on the Lightly model as well.  It didnt match up with Chapelle's draft for the Argus or the Syren.  I used his reconstruction for the inboard works with the help of English original drafts (raven and others) and contemporary models.  Look at how far forward Lightly placed the ship's wheel.  I saw no evidence on any other draft that this was done.  Compare it to the English models.  I also wanted to include the binnacle which Lightly had no place for since he moved the wheel so far forward.  He has it lined up with the second port as compared to the way it is shown on the English drafts and contemporary models.

Beautiful work Robert